Thanks, I am going to do all that now. Hope it comes off.

That wasn't to bad actually. I think I was just affraid to hit it as hard as it took. You said to give it a wack and I did. As you see it is off. Hoser do you see anything I need to focuse on. Problems of any kind. Or should I just start pulling it apart and clean like hell..lol

Before you start to clean remove that tin plate by the output shaft, those two bolts thread into the aluminum case and might be corroded so give the heads a smack with the hammer before you try to loosen them the shock loading on the threads will usually break lose any grip the corrosion might have on the threads, again hit it square and solid.

Once that is off plug the vent line and start cleaning you can even put the trans in the sink and wash it with soap and water it should be sealed once you seal the vent.

You want the trans clean as you can get it before you go inside or change the seals.

If you search their are a few Pilot trans CSI you can review before you get too far.

http://www.google.com/search?q=style+ge ... df04d44808

Ok had some honey do's to get done. Now back to the fun stuff Here is the trans before washing and where it will be for a while getting a good cleaning.

Ok ready to split the case. Now where is the best place to work at it to split it without jamming a screw driver in it.

Their will be no need to EVER put a screwdriver between the cases on the Pilot trans to split.

I cant remember the exact details but look at the cases where the gasket is one case will have a machined boss and the matching case will NOT that is where you can take a brass or aluminum punch and tap tap tap on the one case trying to drive it apart from the other case, their should be several places on the cases where you can tap on one case so its pulling apart from the other case, enough taps and you will break the bond of the gasket.

When you reassemble the trans you want to make sure the threads on that input shaft where the clutch slides on then you install the washer and nut that gets staked is perfectly clean and free of oil, what I do is wash it with brake cleaner then blow dry with compressed air, you use oil on the rest of the shaft you want a coat of oil on everything that is metal to metal during assembly except for that locking nut, you want to put loctite on the shaft threads, clean the threads on the nut then locktite on the nut before you assemble, once torqued you also can stake the nut (bend the metal tab) I have seen two of these come loose in the past one the owner didnt stake the nut enough the other were not sure, adding the loctite to clean threads during assembly will ensure it does not happen to you.

Got it apart. There 1 real important step I did not do and leave it to me , but I must remember to DRAIN THE OIL FIRST. Man what a mess. Hoser I will rem what you said bout the thread being oil free. Well back to cleaning up my mess,,lol

Ut Oh! that's how we learn by doing lol

Hope the mess didnt get out of hand like the BP spill.

Go through the manual for the inspection info I think you will find everything is like new and unworn and undamaged?

Everything looks like brand new. The gears don't have any wear on them from what I can see. The only thing that has any wear on it is the shift fork. Got all the gasket material off and surfaces are clean. Have the cases in the parts tank running hoping to get that midwest crud off. See how it goes there. Either I lost 1 or there never was 2 , but I only had 1 dowel in the cases. I purchased 2. Maybe I was wrong , only needed 1. Here are a few more pics.

Hows the project going? any updates?

Progress is slow right now. Been doing alot of cleaning lil stuff and painting everything I can. Got the reduction cases cleaned up the best I can. waiting on a few things then will get it back together. Wanting to rebuild the master cylanders but
i cant get the damn things off. Bolts wont budge. Thinking bout heating things up a bit and hoping the bolts come loose then. Here are a few pics of the cleaner cases.

were you able to find the gaskets? How do the bearings feel / sound?

Those phillips head screws can be a pain. I would recommend using a cordless impact, not a drill with a chuck , but the impact guns that have the bit holder on the end. Make sure you have the correct size bit. Those screws look like #3 phillips. Also make sure that the bit is "impact ready" there a lot of old style bits out there that either twist or break when used with an impact. Have someone hold the steering wheel steady and push in as hard and straight as you can and blip the trigger of the impact. I have had good luck doing this. Heat should be the last resort. make sure you use antiseize when you put them back in.

Hey when your having trouble post your problems - lot of guys on here who have a lot of good ideas/experience.

Looking great. Keep the updates and photos comming.

Bearings feel good when I spin them. Found gaskets, and seals. I will see bout the impact trick but I will have to barrow 1 if I can find 1. The antiseize is something I have been using on the stuff that I have gottin cleaned up and back together. Will let you know how it goes.

Thanks

If you want the cases to clean up real well use oven cleaner and a small wire brush, it works the best. Let the oven cleaner soak in just like you would on a oven and make sure you do it in a well ventilated area.

A hammer impact driver works well to get out screw headed bolts you can find them cheap at any auto parts store.


http://www.ehow.com/i/#article_4809810

Never thought bout oven cleaner. I have a hand driver like that , but not a bit that will work. Might see if I can find a new bit.

Thanks for the tips

Dave

Try to find the impact bits they are hardened most of the other ones will not hold up.

The driver also has a left and right setting make sure you have it set right, sometimes on stubborn bolts I try to drive/tighten them a little before loosening them and that helps.

Friend of mine had the right bit. Used the hammer impact tool and those screws didnt have a chance. Got the screws out in less then 5 minutes. Worked great. Now to get the clips off the masters so I can rebuild them.

Not much to show except what I found in the masters after opening them up. They worked well from what I remember but I figured why not rebuild them anyhow. After getting the masters off finally (hammer impact= money well spent if you don't have 1) Now a good cleaning of steering wheel and cylanders. Here are the pics. Cylinders show what was in them, nothing was cleaned.

Save all the old brake parts from the cylinder rebuild, wash them off with soap water, dry, put them back in the bag the new ones came in staple it shut save for future, if not to reuse them for matching up with something else if ever needed.

Funny you say that. I did the exact thing with the front brake cylinders. don't know why just did. Couldnt see throwing out good parts that would make spares. Glad I descided to do that.

Tranny back together. Just need to know what everybody is torquing the tranny case bolts to. Not in the book anywhere that I can find.

Forget the torque value for that size bolt some place in the manual it list all the bolt sizes and the torque values, think that is a 6mm bolt?

Make sure you stake that nut and use loctite on that nut for the clutch...

Got it .. Thanks

Working on the driven now. Got new pins and rollers for it. Started taking apart and got it down to the spring, spring guide and seal collar. Went to pull it apart and hell no. Would not pull out for nothing. Took me forever to think of a way to loosen the spring and get the coller and guide out. I needed some way to hook the end of the spring while it was in a vise so I could get the spring unwound a lil bit and get thigs out. Used an adjustable filter wrench with a hook that lets it adjust. Now that it is apart what can I do to it so it will go together and back apart when needed?