I have desided to start working on it again. Got it all taken apart and that was it. After finding this site it got me going again. I know I got a long ways to go , but I have to start sometime. So here is what I have to work with.
Wish me luck.

Welcome and
good luck and good deal on saving a pilot, you got your work cut out for you, plenty to do, at least its mostly stock and not some atvr 4 hour Engine!

I would crack into that Engine and see what your working with, if its been sitting outside a while do yourself a favor and plan on installing Main Bearing and Seals even if the top end is decent, i would pull the top end and the main seals and as long as the main bearings (and or rod bearing) are clean and tight then just put new seals in, do the top end and roll (a leakdown test then roll)

your at the best place to get lots great, free advice and lots of help.

Thank you and yes there is alot of work to do. So this post will be around awhile lol. As for the Engine I was hoping to get Hoser to do his magic on it.

Maybe pot some pictures of you riding the PINK scooter... LOL Just so we know how much fun these are!!!
Welcome to the madness

It would take both of them to pull my big behind around,,LoL

I would have no problem being seen on a pink scooter if it was getting 40+ mpg heck if it got 50+ mpg I would even wear a pink helmet lol

I wanna see Dave ride it in his Rodeo Clown outfit! LOL

Rand

I had a pet rope-a-sauris to ride...

Ok I now have the Engine and trani out of it.

oops left out the trani pic

brace welded in the cage and nerfs welded on.

Yeah,, so should I cut them off or leave them be? Was this way when I got it 14 years ago.

I would leave em(if its not too hard to get in), especially when they are welded on. You may make a weak area when removing them...and you do not want that on your front tubes! I kinda like em there too, unique.

Whats the blue stuff? Someone paint it blue?

I was just in Cincy getting some parts,which I would have known, could have looked it over with you.

Good luck, keep posting pics.
Gary

At 1 time is was blue, then it went back to red. I would like to take it all off then go back to red but do it right. I will leave them there then but clean up the sloppy welding.

Starting on the front brake panels. Looks like they just need a good cleaning and drums could use a sanding. These brakes never worked that great but they did help I recon. Here are what they look like.

Does anybody have a way to remove the axel stubs besides the puller shown here?

You can hit then in the center with a hammer & a punch or you can install an old lug nut nut on the stud to where it just covers the end of the threads and hit it with a hammer. It works well, but the lug nut nut will be junk afterward.

Good luck

he is talking about the rear tranny stubs

Oops, looks like I should have read more carefully. lol..

that's ok,,LoL guess I will be hitting up a local machine shop and do a little idea stealing,,

do a search for 800 reasons

First things first,,, spreader bar is out of the picture. Now I have the frame at work and have been stripping it there. Then after stripping it I need to address a thing or 2 with the frame. So on with the pics if anybody want to see them. Now
i know sandblasting or acid dipping would be easier, but I want to save the money spent there on other areas like Hoser hosersizing the Engine

The side on the left in the last pic shows where it was crunched at 1 time, not by me. The side on the rightn i assume is how it should look. The left side seems to be missing a frame support maybe.

I've stripped the frame on my ORCA Class II Ody like you are doing. It's a lot of work but you get a good look at every nook and cranny in the frame that way! Have fun!

Rand

It is alot of work but I don't mind it knowing the end result will be worth it.