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 Post subject: Pilot knuckle repair?
PostPosted: Sun Feb 20, 2011 6:12 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jan 09, 2011 5:33 pm
Posts: 319
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
Hopefully this can be repaired.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 20, 2011 6:15 pm 
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Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
more


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 20, 2011 6:25 pm 
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Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
The spacer is discontinued. Hope it is still usable.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 20, 2011 6:48 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jun 30, 2007 7:45 am
Posts: 1040
Location: hole above ground
looks good
is that a hole through the side wall or are they all like that can not remember
you will need to get bearings seals and is your center spacer still good
is your hub bad to ?

Image

how deep is that gouge from that rim rubbing it

Image


SpeedChaser :-)


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 20, 2011 6:52 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jun 30, 2007 7:45 am
Posts: 1040
Location: hole above ground
you have a old bearing that you can put in the hole so i can see how much bigger the arm hole is

thanks


SpeedChaser :-)


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 20, 2011 6:57 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22516
Location: Chicago
viewtopic.php?t=4813


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 20, 2011 7:03 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jan 09, 2011 5:33 pm
Posts: 319
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
After looking at the post that Hoser just put there mine isnt even close to that bad. The gouge is maybe a 1/16 deep. The hube is fine. Still looking for a old bearing to put in for you.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 20, 2011 7:11 pm 
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Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
pics. Hope they help.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 20, 2011 7:27 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jun 30, 2007 7:45 am
Posts: 1040
Location: hole above ground
davidafco wrote:
pics. Hope they help.


dose the bearing still press in ?
is that the bad side

if its not that bad you may try loctite retaining compound

620 is a high heat slip fit formula that will withstand temperatures of up to 450 F and fill gaps up to .015" while sealing the metal and preventing corrosion. 638 is a super heavy duty compound for use in high stress applications, for slip fit applications of up to .010"

speed


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 20, 2011 7:57 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jan 09, 2011 5:33 pm
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Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
That is the bad side. The bearing goes in just fine but a lil easy I think. Maybe the locking compound might be a way to go then. Just how is it to let go later if need be?


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 20, 2011 8:00 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jan 09, 2011 5:33 pm
Posts: 319
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
The loctite, is that easy enough to find? like Autozone maybe?


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 20, 2011 9:47 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jun 30, 2007 7:45 am
Posts: 1040
Location: hole above ground
davidafco wrote:
The loctite, is that easy enough to find? like Autozone maybe?



you need to look for 680 loctite

http://www.fiberoptics4sale.com/pdf/Loctite-680-technical-spec-sheet.pdf

Note for For Disassembly
1. Apply localized heat to the assembly to approximately
250 °C. 482f Disassemble while hot.

will the seal stay in or is it wore to far down ?

speed


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 20, 2011 9:56 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jan 09, 2011 5:33 pm
Posts: 319
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
Seal stays in. I think I was just over reacting to how it looked. But I will use the loctite like you suggested. The heat thing I understand. Sounds good then. Since it seems like I wont need you to redo the knuckle, how do I get 1 of your coolheads?


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 20, 2011 10:05 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jun 30, 2007 7:45 am
Posts: 1040
Location: hole above ground
davidafco wrote:
Seal stays in. I think I was just over reacting to how it looked. But I will use the loctite like you suggested. The heat thing I understand. Sounds good then. Since it seems like I wont need you to redo the knuckle, how do I get 1 of your coolheads?


I'm sold out wright now

ask around in the For Sale - Wanted

some one on the board may have a extra



SpeedChaser :-)


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