I guess it should say, hello Project Pilot. Traded my EEE straight across to Fugaboo this past Saturday. I am thinking it was an ok trade. I traded a car that was in pretty good shape but needed a motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) (again!), for a car that wasn't in the greatest shape, but the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) is fine...or so I hope.
Guess I will let the pics do most of the talking other than the ones I didnt take of the extra set of sand tires I got with it. All are on aluminum wheels, 24x11-10 10 scoop skat trak edge paddles practically new, and some Sand Tires Unlimited 22x8-10's up front. I am also supposed to get some maxxis razor tires from him the next time we meet up. The pilot came with works shocks on all 4 corners, but I think they need to be rebuilt, they sound pretty dry and moan quite loud when you push down on it (LOL!!!). The motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) was also built by Ed at EEE, so I am hoping it has some good power, but bad thing is that it is already at 82mm. ATV Racin torque pipe (non-hand laid), keihin 39mm carb, the rest the pics can tell....

I have a total of 43 initial pics, I will post more tomorrow.

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Congrats sir!

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last one for now. 150 psi of compression warm. tomorrow i will do a leak test and see if i can figure out what that oily substance is in the radiator fluid. i guess if it is oil from the exhaust, the leak test will tell me.

Drain coolant system pull head the head gasket is leaking, when they leak they usually only leak compression into the Engine when its running and don't suck coolant into the Engine it pushes gas/oil into the coolant system, see what looks like black pepper that's probably parts of the head gasket.

Compression test will tell you nothing about this type of leaking head gasket, been their done that.

Looking at the air filter, the carb and the fuel pump hose I would remove the seat, gas tank, radiator plastic cover then pressure wash the whole thing before you start wrenching and plan on pulling the cylinder to see what you have, post pics of the slide on the carb, cant believe they used a zip tie to try and seal the pulse tube lmao

Tie rods look like the ATVR replacements? If so locate you some stock tie rods to carry as a spare once you bend the ATVR rods they are junk and you cant straighten them the tube kinks, bend and toss I call them, your 100% better off with OEM rods.

My initial thoughts were head gasket as well. I found some white silicone looking stuff stuck to the radiator cap which I believe to be head gasket material. I was going to also do a leak test to see if there are any other problems. I may or may not yank the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) as well, Guess it depends on how detailed I want to get with my cleaning process.
Will have more pics coming. Any ideas on how to get those 2 phillips screws out of the side panel? I don't want to strip them out and looks like someone already started to wear on them a bit. I tried tapping them with a hammer to break any rust material loose, but no effect. Cant really use a torch to heat it, and don't have a good shot to use PB rust penetrator stuff.

One phillips screws i've had real good luck using a milwaukee battery powered impact - not the one that takes a socket but the small one that takes the hex bits. make sure you have an "impact ready" bit - the regular ones will break - and make sure you have the correct size phillips bit - probably a #2. Push in straight and hard and blip the trigger. I never had much luck with the hammer drive tools but i guess you could try it.

Soak with PB blaster a while, beat the heads of them good with a hammer, take a flat end punch and tap the Phillips metal that is started to strip back into place, find a Phillips bit that fits them heads good and beat it with a hammer to further restore the screw head then use one of them impacts you beat with a hammer to break them lose, those screws can be a bitch to get out, worse comes to worse carefully drill them out and clean up threads with a tap.

what about an impact screwdriver?

I will see if I can fanagel it some this afternoon. Will try to soak it some and clean up the boogered up screw heads. Last resort I will try to drill it out. Someone tried to drill out a broken bolt for the roof panel, but they got it off center and stopped. Might have to fill it with weld then try drilling again then tap it.

In pic 34 carb boot, the trans vent line looks to be rubbed through and possable blocked. If so, blockage could blow out seal. Not to mention the yuck in the trans/oil. I know you would have seen it when you worked on the boot just wanted to be sure to bring it to your attention. Enjoy the build.

And that, my friend, is why I posted pics! I knew someone would catch something that I didnt see initially! Thanks adnoh, I will take care of that ASAP!

NickRNR, Your welcome.

You can test the head gasket leak by just removing the cylinder and leaving the headgasket intact and pressure test. A base gasket is cheaper than a head gasket if not sure it's bad. This will also let you get a good look around. I air test all cylinders after hacking to make sure there is no rut ru's. Any way here a short excert of a video note I made simulating just that. Head gasket leak above rad cap pressure, cap pressure 16-20 lbs. By the way the old head gasket held at 15 psi a little over 1 bar.

When testing new hacker work I install a new gaasket and test the head then move in to the cylinder checking for leaks and casting flaws. One would be surprised how many leak at higher pressure but only need to hold up to 20 psi in normal operating conditions with out a blown head gasket. Usally the pop off of the rad cap let the pressure relieve and fill the over flow/resavore and dump on ground untill a low coolent levle is achieved and then you just have gas excape and the Engine runs hot fom lack of heat transfer.

As "H" says when in dout check it out.

they are the bigger screwdriver size, That is why they are buggered up... someone used the wrong sized tool

quote="nickRNR"]My initial thoughts were head gasket as well. I found some white silicone looking stuff stuck to the radiator cap which I believe to be head gasket material. I was going to also do a leak test to see if there are any other problems. I may or may not yank the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) as well, Guess it depends on how detailed I want to get with my cleaning process.
Will have more pics coming. Any ideas on how to get those 2 phillips screws out of the side panel? I don't want to strip them out and looks like someone already started to wear on them a bit. I tried tapping them with a hammer to break any rust material loose, but no effect. Cant really use a torch to heat it, and don't have a good shot to use PB rust penetrator stuff.[/quote]

Good eye I missed that one, you caught that without your coffee?

Pull the tube look close in the trans vent see sand pull the trans apart and get it out, hopefully any dirt, sand that got inside only made its way part way through the vent baffle system in the trans and never worked its way to the oil YET

Looks like a mouse chewed on it to me.

I install a small fuel filter on mine to keep dust out, this would not help in your case but you might consider adding for future. More internal trans pics here viewtopic.php?f=1&t=3004&start=0

"H", I was on my second pot for the day. It was an accident I seen it. As I was scrolling down the page I rolled accross the pic and it started to load and when it did it enlarged and by chance focused right on the hole. Heck I bet even after a few cold one I would have seen it since all but slapped me in the face. The pic filled my screen. After I closed the pic it took a few second to locate it again. I like the idea of the filter on the trans vent line, good mod.

All who read should take note and while on the subject of vent lines expecially the 89's and the one with after market cab that dump( no catch can). The carb vent lines should be check frenqlety to be sure there not pluged which can lead to poor preformace and jetting issues. What happenes is fuel residue can collect dust sand ect and plug the line a vapor lock the carb. I mention 89 and aftermarket because the 90 has a dump tank the lines run into and then vent and are not as subject to plugging and the tank vet line ( Fuel breater Tube) should be cleaned yearly or when ridding in water and dusty locations.

For those with manuals which I assume all has
in the 89 manual general information page 1-11
in the 90 manual page 1-11 for 89 and page 1-14 for 90
Note: the electronic free manual is an 89 and does not show 90 fuel line routing and catch can.

Little off topic but felt it was worth noteing

Definately worth pointing out. I will check all my hoses, fuel lines, and stick some filters on the breather hoses. Should do that with all breather lines on all my vehicles. I will have more pics and progress soon, maybe get some wrench time today. Kind of cool that my wife is getting involved in the project too, she helped me skin the pilot and keeps asking what more she can do!

Well, I'm back from my vegas boys trip. Had a GREAT TIME! Didn't get to meet up with PPP, his tummy was all grumbly...LOL Now that I am back, I am ready to tear into the pilot some more. Going to pull motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )), tank, radiator, etc... Best part about the trip, I came home with more money in my pocket than what I went there with, so I have a little extra funds to work on the pilot with.
Details and pics to come...

Please no pictures or details about the ugly snakes and poisonous hookers...

nope, no vegas details or pics. no incriminating info going on the internet from me! LOL

worked on the pilot some last night, drained oily coolant, pulled radiator and overflow, pulled gas tank, pulled carb (slide looked ok), the intake manifold looked a bit rough, i might replace it. no pics yet, but will snap some this week.
still need to move brakes out of the way so i can pull motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) with lower end attached to cylinder.
So far, here is a list of stuff I have bought:
roof panel
rear suspension link
reflector

Here is a list of things I need, i am sure it will grow as time goes on
front left fender
rear right fender
intake manifold
3 phillips head side panel screws
drive belt
rebuild/reoil the works shocks
UNI air filter
intake elbow
tap/chase 2 holes and 2 new bolts
fix front frame damage

All in all, it is not a huge investment. Should be ready for the upcoming Glamis trip next month