Yah you have the same Comet clutch I have on the yellow buggy above. I think they are called the Comet Duster. If you can find a deal on a 73,74 jug and head you might want to buy it. Lots more power and cooling for the money. Might consider it if you need Engine work. My blue Ody has that mod and it really rips. I am thinking our Engine may have some mods as well. With all the work they did at one time. I do not see this machine rolling with a bone stock motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )).

You can save some money on paint with POR15. Check out my build thread above. I am about ready to paint mine. Cost was $56 and you brush it on. The Sled ody above is pianted with it. Amazing stuff look into it.

Also do not let the rust mess with you. With a drill and some steel wool my reduction unit looked like this. Just use a drill and start cleaning. works great.

Also notice the cam on my driven clutch? Mine is stock. The one your ody is not stock. that's why I mentioned it.

man you are helpful. i wouldn't have known any of that. ya the clutches look the same and ya i was hoping to clean all the rust up with that. if it doesn't work with alot of work i'll buy new but i think i can fix it up. i will be starting on the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) in a few days i'll post close ups so you guys can keep an eye on it. is that por15 comparable to powder coat?

Powder coat cannot shake a stick at POR15 for toughness. You cannot chip it even with a hammer. It is very hard to scratch even with a knife. No need for spray guns and primers. I painted a pipe with POR15. I was able to smash the pipe with a hammer. The POR15 was fine while the pipe was dented about half way. I beat the same pipe with a pipe wrench and could not chip it. Amazing stuff for sure.

Here is some pics of por15 on a Ody.

oh nice. sweet i'll look into it a lil more. we're thinkin of painting it black and silver with polished up wheels so it should look clean.

oh also. how much should i buy for the frame, roll cage, and a few misc parts in black, and the j-arms, Engine cage thing, and side skirts in silver.

POR15 goes a long way. I just painted everything on the ody above with a pint. POR15 sells a starter kit for 20$ and it comes in silver. Google POR15 starter kit. I just paid $56 for a pint of POR15, Quart of Marine Clean and a quart of medal ready. So you looking at about $90 for a solid paint job. Also gas has no effect on it. Great for a Ody paint. The starter kit is enough to do your j-arms,cage and nerf bars. The silver does not lay as good as the black. But you can work with it.

POR15 does go long way. A pint will be more than enough if you go really light on the first coat. There are cheaper ways to paint. But I do not have spray guns and a place to paint. POR15 is stronger and you can brush it on. You do have to top coat POR15 though. I just use rattle can while the por15 is still tacky. POR15 is not UV safe. So any parts that are exposed to sun need top coated. Also DO NOT GET ANY OF IT ON YOU. It will takes weeks before it comes off.

POR15 is not for everyone. But if you are not a painter it works out great. Plus you cannot destroy it even if you try.

I would paint the Engine cage black. With all the oil back there it is hard to keep clean.

haha. didn't even think about the oil and stuff getting on the Engine cage. i just don't want it all black. we need some contrast. i hope having the j-arms and skirts silver will be enough. so can you spray POR15 on also? or is it all brush on. my dad has a cheaper sprayer we used a while back for our spa. if i use that would it ruin it?

Check the instructions for the sprayer, it will tell you what kind of paints you can spray through it. If it isn't compatible with the solvents used in the por15 is will destroy the rubber seals in the unit.

Rand

Yah you can spray it. But you need the por15 thinner and solvant. I have never sprayed it but have read it works well. You must thin POR15 to spray it. If you have a sprayer and all the stuff you might be able to paint it cheaper with some good paint. I never sprayed anything to the por15 brushing works good for me. My friend from work sprayed some last month. He said it cleaned up fine in his sprayer. Not sur if it will go as long as brushing though.

I do not recoment POR15 Silver. It does not lay the same as black for some reason. It has more filler so they say. The silver is fine once you top coat though.

Here is some parts I painted last night with POR15 and a brush.

idk man. i got hooked up and quoted 200 to powdercoat the rollcage, frame and j-arms. i think i might just go with that. less hassle, i think there is less likelyhood of anything getting messed up. also we'll have more selection in color. im still lookin into it but my dad seems to thinks we'll be best off getting it professionally done.

hey guys. so we're havin a little trouble getting the driven clutch off from the gear reduction case(grc). it says to take off the bolt, lock washer and washer. which we did. then place the grc on a bench and pull the driven pulley straight up off the shaft from the grc. but that got us nowhere. it is either stuck on or we don't know what we're doing. any tips?

Did you take the snap ring off? Do you have the outer cam off yet?

I had to make a puller out of a think chunk of steel and drill three holes to match the clutch cam. Then you need to drill out and tap the 3 holes on the clutch cam. Use a puller and an impact along with the puller plate you made. That shaft is doudle shafted so look at it close. Look on the online manual is shows the puller plate with the 3 holes. Just make one. I was able to drill the cam holes all the way thru and tap them. Once you have the cam off the outer face will slide off. Is the seal bad on top? Both of the one I did the seal were okay on the shaft. I just replace the two seals below the oil line. So I did not have to take the stationary face off. Was there oil around the upper seal?

Now the stationary face I never pulled off. that's a whole new story. They can be hell is what I read.

Note: I tried using a 3 jaw puller on just the clutch cam. I busted the cam. So we made a puller plate and hooked the 3 jaws to the plate. This way you not pulling on the cam. Just the threads. And are plate was round so the puller jaws could grip good. (we used a old dirt bike sprocket) Also used the same puller plate to put the cam back on. I also read threads with pics where they just used the puller jaws right on the cam and it worked. Like I said I busted mine trying it that way. A new cam cost $50. The sprocket was thick and we bent it. So make your plate with thick steel. I have pulled 3 cams off now with the puller plate. They pop right off with an impact.

Also when drilling the 3 cam holes. When you almost thru the cam go real slow. The angle is weird at the end. Also there is a spring right there. Just go slow at the end. Look inside the cam good and you will see what I am talking about. Tap the holes good and deep as you can. We used fine threads.

I have found info/threads on how to pull the stationary face. I would google around some. I think you have to drill and tap 3 more holes. Could be wrong though. I can tell you that I have read it is a pain in the arse. And some have never come off.

sweet. well so far i got the driven clutch away from the reduction gear case primary shaft with a crank puller and im stuck with the cam. i took the brake off and i plan on polishing it up nice with sandpaper and steal wool like you did.

Can you tell me how you did it? I am going to google to see what a crank puller is. Any tips or did you learne anything? Thanks

Edit: Okay a few more questions. Does it use threads to pull? What size. Do you have a pic of the type of puller you used? Thanks again.

no it doesnt use the threads to tap into anything the threads are for the puller. i used the two claw arms to grip under the cam and put the middle shaft of the puller on the primary shaft of the rgc then just tightened it down. im working alot still so it'll be a bit till i get pictures but i'll let ya know

Thanks for th pics. Never thought about doing it that way.

Anyway I think I found out why the hole is in your frame. From Bills Tips.

Another trick that all the racers do is drill a small hole in the frame on the left side of the chassis in line with
the clutch bolt. This will allow you to slip an extension through the frame rail. You can then use a impact tool to
loosen the clutch bolt & remove the clutch with the puller. On a racing Odyssey this is important, because
clutch adjustments and maintenance are done often.

Good tips here

http://www.pilotodyssey.com/billtips.htm" ."..


Also I think you and I have the Powerbloc drive clutches. I just picked up another one today. Does your clutch say Comet Or Powerbloc? Powerbloc are really spendy new. In the $400 plus range just for the drive.

by the way that picture is just off one i found on google. i'll put a pic of what i did specifically. ya i was looking at my clutch and its a powerbloc. is that comparable to a comet? i think i was reading that post somewhere about the hole in the frame. i was looking at alot of other odys and noticed they didn't have that hole. i still have to get the cam off which will take some work.

The Powerbloc is better from everything I have read. My Yellow Ody Also has the Powerbloc. The reason it is better is you can adjust it more than the Comets. Also the powerblocs run about $450 new just for the driver. Much more than the Comets. That being said I am no expert. I am just learning all I can about them. So basicaly keep repair or fix that clutch at all cost. You will be able to dial in your high and low shifting. Your Ody will rip man. Also take some pics of the driven. I want to see what you got. Also can you measure the top width of your belt that was on the Ody? I am wondering if the spaced out the driven for the wider powerbloc clutch????? You need to match those up so look into it now. Did you read my thread on how I matched the larger belt to the stock ody driven?

You might have to put the driven back on the shaft. Then pull the cam like I said above. Once the cam is off then pull the shaft... You did it backwards friend. The cam are not easy to pop off. They are pretty tight. Does your cam have the 3 holes like the stock ones do? If not use a 3 jaw puller and a impact. Ya post a pic of the front of the cam.



You got the snap ring off right?

sweer. man im finding all kinds of fun stuff from you guys. im gonna look into how to tune in the powerbloc. i don t have the belt that was on it anymore. i can take a pic of the drive clutch with a tape measure next to it if ya want. i'll check out your post on fitting it properly too. ya in the haste of getting this thing stripped i took it apart in the wrong order. i'll try putting it back on the shaft. i got the snap ring off but it broke so i need a new one. and idk if the driven has the three holes. i read that a while ago and couldn't see what you were talking about. like i said earlier i'll post pics later. im working alot bc im goin on vacation so its gonna be at least a week till pics go up.

I also broke the snap rign two times. You can find them on ebay for like $5. Look at the ring close. See how it is weird shaped? We are not taking them off right. There must be a trick to it by looking at the ring. I would get the right ring for sure.

Once you have the snap ring off you can pull the outer cam with a 3 jaw puller. Just make sure your puller jaws are flush on the cam. It should pop right off.

When you use the crank puller will you take some pics for me. I would love to learn how to pull those off easy.

Also here some pics of my build. Just starting to put it back. Also cleaned up the clutch. I mounted to driven back onto the frame as a holder. The spin the blot with a drill. Some fine grit sand paper and they look like new in no time. I did all the sides is about 10 minutes. I did not use no clear coat. Just leave them be.

Notice the 3 holes in my cam below? I tap those holes out. The bolt a puller plate to the cam. I then hook my 3 jaw puller the the puller plate. Some guys just use the 3 jaw puller right on the cam. If your cam does not have any holes. I would think they only way is a 3 jaw puller right? Good luck. When you put the spring back in you need to pre load so read the book. I have a free online copy if you want it.

PS Also remember I am not an expert on these Ody. I just restored one is all. Take what I say with a some salt. LOL

you don't have to be a pro. as long as you're somewhat mechanically inclined you can do it. im not good at all with this. i just enjoy doing stuff like this and learning from it. also the snap ring can come off with a snap ring pliers. i don't have one so it was difficult. i don't remember my cam having those three holes so it will probably be more difficult but i'll keep ya updated.

Check out this mod to derect air onto the Engine. Looks like he used a old fl250 fender. Pretty slick. Thought I would post it here. Same roll cage as your as well. Also post some pics of your driven when you get a chance.

Clutch I see in the pic is a Powerbloc if I am looking at the right pic.

Yes, those are old ATC90 or 110 front fenders that were cracked where they mounted to the forks, they worked great and were easy to install (that's our last FL250)

If you look in these pictures, I have a ducts attached to my nerf bars and anchored behind the seat. This made a huge difference in cooling and I had this installed before the Honda engineers made the FL350...also with air ducts! Ha Ha Ha!

Rand