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 Post subject: Another Fl350 build
PostPosted: Fri Jan 01, 2021 12:57 pm 
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Joined: Sun Dec 29, 2019 11:18 pm
Posts: 72
Happy New Years, it has been exactly 1 year since my first post of my other Odyssey, so it just seemed fitting...

So I picked up a pair of Fl350's from a Facebook group member a few months back, both of them were completely torn down already.
I ended up just rebuilding one of them, some of the suspension components were bent or broken, so truthfully there were only enough parts to rebuild one of them anyways.

The first thing I did was I gusseted the frame up, and got it powercoated
Image

While I was waiting for that, I painted many of the other parts, choosing a silver theme rather than the original gold,
Once I got the frame back I started reassembly.
Image

I ran into an issue with the seats that I got with it. One of the seats the vinyl was torn pretty badly. the other seat the vinyl was in great shape, but the threaded holes on the bottom of it were rusted out.
So I tore the seat apart and replaced the steel plates inside
Image

I also had to coat the inside of the gas tank, as it was starting to rust, I used POR-15 gas tank sealer, and it worked really well.

The engines I got with these were not in great shape either.
One of them was blown up. the other one was simply worn out at 120PSI of compression, it ran, but not very well.

So I took the worn Engine and dropped the cylinder off at a local shop to get it bored. It was so worn out, that even the next size up piston was *technically* not large enough to completely bore out the cylinder (only near the very bottom of the cylinder was slightly too large), but it was fine with me and I was in a time crunch at the time I dropped it off. Since the shop was just a run-of-the-mill automotive machine shop, I had to do the chamfering and exhaust bridge relief myself, and I probably did a horrible job, but it still runs so I guess it can't have been that bad!

Also, while I had the Engine apart, I went ahead and performed a vent mod, I did it a little differently than most, I made an aluminum plug that would thread into the case, and put a 3/8NPT thread on the top side of it, that allowed me to install a push-to-connect fitting on top, doing it this way makes it really easy to pop the hose off so you don't have to fight the hose to remove the cap. or you can leave the hose on as it will spin inside the fitting. I plan on refining that piece a bit better, but as a prototype, it worked really well.
Image
The goal was to be able to use the spark plug wrench to remove it if needed, but the fitting was too tall for the wrench to fit, what I will probably do with the next one is simply make it knurled and round that should work just as well. The hose I used was 1/2" OD, 3/8" ID, and the fitting and adapter were large enough on the inside to use all of that 3/8" unobstructed.

The last thing to get attention on the Engine was the starter, one of the engines had an original starter, the other Engine had an aftermarket starter. I'm not even sure that aftermarket starter was even meant to be used on an Odyssey, because, among other things, it was not meshing with the ring gear right, and had chewed up the teeth. Anyway, I removed that starter and dismantled the Original starter to find (unsurprisingly) that it was filled with oil. After cleaning the oil out and reassembling it, it works great.

Another thing that got attention was the foot-tub that I got. It had some cracks and was falling apart at the edges. The quick and dirty solution was to fiberglass the cracks up, fiberglass the inside for additional support, and then I coated most of the rest of it with just the resin, which will work fine until I replace it.

So with that, I was able to go to Durhamtown, Here is the Odyssey ready to go the night before:
Image

and the day after:
Image

overall the trip went well for a shakedown run, of both me and the Odyssey.

There were some casualties, however:
Immediately on showing up, I wanted to do a proper fuel pump test, and it showed me that my fuel pump needed to be rebuilt. I came prepared, and rebuilt it right away, and had no more issues from it all day.
One Original rear shock (junk anyways)
The ground wire for the reverse switch broke off on the trail, but luckily I was able to reattach it and kept going.
One inner-tie rod end
and One front-lower shock bolt (fell out)
Pictures of the carnage can been seen here: http://www.pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=20634
The shocks were only temporary anyways, I already have works shocks, I had the rear shocks at the time of the trip, but didn't want to install them because I hadn't yet installed any shock-savers, and the u-joints are not in great shape, that was a recipe for disaster anyway. Now the new shocks are installed as well as the shock savers.
The tie rods have now been replaced and upgraded so I will not have any more issues with them.
The front shock bolt was replaced, and with the works shocks, will be loc-tited in place.
Image
Please note, the shock saver is not completely finished yet, but it is installed, I won't be riding until it is completely done.
Also wanted to ask, how taut should the chain be when the suspension is compressed? seems like it gets pretty tight, but if the chain is any longer it seems like it would be too loose and not be very effective.

A couple of days after the trip I was having trouble getting it to run again, It would run for a bit then die and would not start again for a while.
I found out that my fuel pump had quit working completely, it was not pumping even a little bit of fuel. So I ended up replacing it with an HFP-281 pump, which is the pump used by a Polaris sportsman 300-500 among other machines. I chose this pump over the Mikuni DF44 pump simply because of the location of the ports. the HFP pump had all 3 on the same side like my original pump, so it was an easier swap.
Image
Also, I wanted to mention, the plastic fuel check valve broke, So I drilled out a carb main jet slightly and put it in the return line to the tank since others have had good luck with that in the past. It seems to be working well for now. Although I may revisit this later.

I installed new seat belts the other day as well, the Pro Armor A114220RD ones to be exact. I wonder if anyone has any opinions on them, or if they might know of some that fit better using the original mounting hardware? otherwise, these will work just fine.

Another thing of note is the starter relay, both of the ones I got with the Odysseys had issues, making neither one usable. So I ended up getting an OEM honda 35850-HM8-A41 relay, which fits perfectly, and it was only $25, very hard to beat for an OEM part.

Future plans are to install a L/C cylinder and head.
I have the head already, but the cylinder is still with Methodical.
I plan on building the 2nd Engine I have with the L/C parts, and swapping it out when it is ready.

Also, I still need to do something about my wheels, at the very least they need to be refinished to be silver to match the rest of the parts!


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 Post subject: Re: Another Fl350 build
PostPosted: Fri Jan 01, 2021 3:37 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7698
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
Happy New Year
Nice work on the machine.

Shock savers:
Safe way to tell if the chains are to short is to remove the shocks and cycle the suspension by hand. That's what I do. Leave the shock savers on and cycle suspension and when the chain hits the tank then that's far enough. Is the chain tight at this point ?? Binding ??
Measurement on the chain is 16 1/2'' long with a center to center of 16" (bolt to bolt) on my machines.
CO


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 Post subject: Re: Another Fl350 build
PostPosted: Fri Jan 01, 2021 4:00 pm 
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Joined: Sun Dec 29, 2019 11:18 pm
Posts: 72
canadian oddy wrote:
Happy New Year

Shock savers:
Safe way to tell if the chains are to short is to remove the shocks and cycle the suspension by hand. That's what I do. Leave the shock savers on and cycle suspension and when the chain hits the tank then that's far enough. Is the chain tight at this point ?? Binding ??
Measurement on the chain is 16 1/2'' long with a center to center of 16" (bolt to bolt) on my machines.
CO

Thanks,

I can cycle the suspension to where the chain is bent around the tank slightly, so I guess that is fine then?
just checked, chain is 16 1/2" so it should be fine then, thanks again!


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