It's getting there, I too like how low it sits...you'll have to stop by and check it out!!!!
Got my rear tires/rims, finally. Not in too bad of shape but will have to be slimed! Also got front tubes, just have to get them in. Still awaiting the seat back and steering cover, this guy is really pissing me off!!!!! Paid for everything on 3/19 and still waiting!, not cool!!!!

Looking good!

Before your done consider adding a brace like seen here to the trans http://www.pilotodyssey.com/CHtransmount.htm

I was thinking the same...the mounting surface of the frame to trans seems quite cheesey.

My thought was to fab a mount from the top two (2) bolts on the trans straight back to the rear frame and also use this for mounting of the belt guard.

Still waiting to hear from Dayco on the belt, and, still waiting for the seat back from idiot....

Hit a snag with the belt.....Dayco and I went round and round about the drive sysyem, snowmobile vs. oddyssey, they calimed the trans will not hold the HP of the Engine, I do have concerns but we'll wait and see. Al least it'll be a blast destroying it. We finally came up with a dayco belt for a kawasaki 400 4x4 (40" X 1 1/4, roughly). Ordered it from feebay, 17.00 for the XTX belt, real cheap....should be here today.

I got the seat back on and am currently working on exhaust, keeping everything stock, with a bit of cutting and welding...should work well though. Going to be a bit tight with the seat back, probably wont be able to put the seat all the way back....oh well.

I also got a stock throttle cable, the end of the cable shield is bigger than the adjustment guide screw on my mikuni....got a shout out to a guy in St. Charles, Il. whom owns a mukuni carb shop...he only does mikuni carbs and has a shitload of parts in stock.....I'll list his info next time if anyone's interested....he does awsome work!!!

I'll list some pics next time, I'm hoping to have it running within the next few days. I want to see if my Engine/trans alignment is going to work out, I think it is going to be fine though.

Stay tuned

Look what I found on feebay. Got it for 400.00 Has a liquid head on it, brand new .50 wisco....LOTS of goodies on it...even had the extra axle suport bearing on it. Also has new alloys and Wolly Booger tires on the rear, 4 bolt hubs too, Power Blok clutch, like new!!!! Me and TPReed tore it down last night... fun fun fun!!!!

Thanks for the help Tim!!!!!

Will post more later!!!!

TPReed and I tore the oddy apart.....cage fits mine just fine...a little close on the plugs but it'll work just fine.

CAN'T WAIT TO CRUZ IT....GETTING EVEN CLOSER EVERY DAY!!!!!

STAY TUNED.

Are any of the parts from the new ody for sale? Can you post a pic of the extra axle suport bearing? Is it CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition)?

I'm going to use the suport bearing unit, it's quite large, old school pillow block type but nicely done, looks like it came as a kit from back in the day, it's not likt the new kits available today that use the flange type bearing. The Engine is pretty bad except for the jug and new wisco .50 over piston. Carb is complete, intake is nice, exhaust is nice, recoil had washers welded to mounting tabs but would make a decent backup unit. Engine is of the points nature....junk!!!!
Everything else is pretty much junk in my opinion.

Is the water cooled head for sale?

Already gone....it had quite a bit of piting in the water jacket and the cover had a bad pit in it as well. Where the o ring sat the lip was missing a piece as well. Not a very good unit, in my opinion, needed some machining to make 100%. This is why I didn't put it on here for sale, if it would've been decent I would have listed it here.

Here's the exhaust....I compared the stock "can" muffler to the factory FL and they are quite similar in size so I'm going to try the FL unit first. We'll see what happens, hopefully it will work ok.

The reason for using the stocker was clearance issues...now I can put the seat all the way back and have no clearance issues.....now it's on to the placement of the fuel tank....realestate is at at preium back there!!!!!

I had to raise it quite a bit but I'll build some nice risers...yes, the all thread is gonna go. The "U" pipe was a tough one to fab, (especially with no help to hold the sections while I tacked) three seperate pieces, (5 counting the manifold and chamber) all mitered, one was somthing like 30 deg. and had inside radius of 3/8", I wanted to keep flow of the pipe nice and clean, no sharp turns to restrict flow....I'm going to need all the unrestricted flow I can get with the stock unit. Started the exhaust at 5pm, finished at 2am...long night.

Other than the hight of it, I think it turned out quite clean looking.

Going to have it running today, probably not moving but running just to hear it.

Make sure you support that pipe really good. They like to crack after being welded. I would us both of the pipe mounts if you can.

won't be long now.

Did you ever get a reduction unit? I got a few more and now have complete one for sale.

IT IS........ALIVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

How does it sound with that pipe? If it does not work I have this pipe for sale. Came off a 440 polaris. You could also slot the pipe mount so you can move the pipe around with the Engine. It's going to take some messing around with to get the belt perfect. It would be nice to be able to move the pipe when you move the Engine.

AND....IT'S DEAD...KINDDA.

Finished off everything tonight and took her out for a cruz around the block. Well, I came areound the corner and nailed it.....the pics speak for themselves.

JD 340CC VS. FL250 TRANS.........JD Engine: 1...FL250 TRANS: 0

I'm installing the other trans tomorrow morning, if this one self destructs...I'm going with my Polaris!!!!

STAY TUNED FOR MORE CARAGE!!!!!

PS: It sounds absolutely radical with the 250 exhause!!!!!!!!! Sounds a little like a ATC250R on steroids!!!!

I know they are not ideal for sled power and seen them break. But at the same time I also seen many of these hold up well. Is this the one you peaced togather? Did the chain break? Looks rusty. Are these the parts I sent you?

You saod the other unit has a Comet Driven on it? I would put that comet on for sure.

I'm not sure why it looks like that in the photos, could be from the flash, not sure. Yes these are the parts you sent....I followed the manual exactly to put it together, and, these are not that tough to put back together, they're pretty straight forward.
I thought the chain was a bit sloppy when I put it together, guess I was right. No big deal, time to put number 2 in. This one doesn't appear to have been apart, there is a bit of rotating play. When you turn the clutch it takes about 1/10 turn for the axle to move, it's less than the trans I blew but there is some play. The cases on this one are absolutely perfect, I almost hate to grenade it!!!!, however, I'm pretty certain I will!!!

If this one goes I moving on to either my sled jack shaft or going to start over and use the polaris unit.

The 250 exhaust does sound crazy radical though!!!!! I'm going to have to get some kind of muffler though. I'm looking into a mini cherry bomb type, Tim has a 350 muffler we might try as well.

I am VERY pleased with how low the Engine sits in the chasis, very, very low center of gravity!!!!...well worth the extra time to get it that low!!!!

Stay tuned.....

I had lots of input on throttle cable options. I have a very easy fix for this one.

We used the stock cable. Took the adjusting sleeve out of the stock carb cap and put in the the Mikuni cap, the one in the mikuni is too small for the sleeve on the stock cable. Then the cable was too short. So we took the linkage off the throttle rod on the handbar and ground roughly 1/4" off the stop....works awsome and no need for a custom cable!!!!! Easy fix.

I think you will be alright. So far my has held up. About 15 hours total.

Wow that sucks, I see rust inside that case not good, save the internals of that case I bet their is a lot of parts still usable! don't degrease the parts oil them up good put inside a 2 gallon zip loc bag save them for the future their will come a day when someone needs some of those gears, spacers, shafts, bushings, bearings, bolts, nuts etc....

I had my 440 Pilot out yesterday nothing like the sound of a 2 stroke twin on the pipe makes the hair stand up on the back of your neck.

Friend of mine used a FL250 trans in his 440 racer he built years ago, he used a ROTAX 440 out of a 9500 Blizzard his trans took the 90+ HP and racing abuse no problem you gotta start out with a solid box and new chain, once you install the new chain measure the slack like shown in the service manual then monitor the stretch change the chain when you reach about 1/2 the slack Honda states as the wear limits since your running double the HP check the bearings too, think he used a 50/50 mix of 90W gear lube and the oil Honda recommends for the trans.

Sorry to see the trans fail on you!
I have a question about the exhaust... Is it mounted to the Y pipe with springs or is it welded on? The best setup for any 2 stroke I find is to have it spring attached... the Engine is bolted down and the pipe is bolted down and the springs attaching the two at the Y allow for enough movement to keep that pipe from cracking... even with pipes mounted with rubber it still increases the pipe cracking chance is springs are not used...
This post is all for not of course if your pipe is spring mounted to the Y... Nice build... nice score on the caged Ody too...
Keep the posts coming....
G.O.

Right on you need that isolation to keep them from cracking, any idea what type rubber they use where you can mix it up and pour it into a mold to make rubber mounts, now that Honda has discontinued these parts we might have to start making them, I was thinking about this the other day when installing the Engine in Mudbogger's Pilot, I don't even know what they call it I just know they make it.

For now, the exhaust is a solid mount. I do have the "cups" to spring mount it as soon as I figure out which exhaust I'm using, I have a few to try. Right now, this thing is obnoxiously loud!!!

As for rubber mounts go, find a really big ACE hardware and go to the Hillman isle (nut & bolts ect..). They make rubber mounts that are almost exact replacements for the 250 exhaust mounts. You can also go to Hillman on the internet. They also stock the hiem (?spelling) joints for steering in metric tie rods! I already have mine, just awaiting my disassembly, paint and final assembly. My Wife is a manager so I get a killer discount, sometimes up to 80% off!!!, NICE, especially now that our ACE handles Craftsman tools!!!

I have my comet 102C apart now to put a shim in for belt spacing. I will try to blow the next trans tomorrow. One down and two to go.

Anyone know if 100.00 is a good price for a NEW 250 chain?

Thanks for the input guys!!!

Search around this site. I see a thread on good replacement chains. No master links type though. I wil see if I can dig it up. I think it may be in Bills Tips.

Bills Tips.

Transmission & Axle Tips:
If you remove axle for any reason, you will have noticed that you have to remove the right side bearing carrier and
parking brake to get the axle out. This is because the lip that butts against the transmission is to large to fit through
the bearing on the bearing carrier. If you grind the lip down a little or get it turned down slightly it will slide right
through the bearing. From then on you can remove the axle without having to remove the bearing carrier.

If you remove the parking brake drum and grind away all the drum so it is just a spacer, this will reduce the weight
of the axle assembly and the car will accelerate quicker. You can remove all parts of the parking brake to eliminate
unnecessary weight on the odyssey.

If you race dirt oval track you can get the center section of the axle turned down to about 1" in diameter. Do this
while having the turned section tapered back out to the original diameter near the edges where it passes through
the tranny & bearing carrier. This will allow the axle to flex a little and the car will not bounce as bad when you
hit bumps on the track. Also the axle is less likely to bend because it will flex instead of bending. It will also
driven weight so the car will accelerate quicker. This tip was contributed by Frank Callas.

The 77-81 FL250 transmission has a weaker chain than the 82-84 FL250. The two chains are interchangeable. If
you have your transmission open for any sort of maintenance you can replace the weaker chain with the 82-84
heavy duty chain. Part # for the heavy duty chain is: No. RK 50KB-42 LE (Takasago). If you break a chain under
full throttle it will usually do some serious damage to the gear case. If you have the gearbox open & the chain is
loose, my advice is to change it.

The manual says to use 10W30 or 10W40 motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) oil in the gearbox. I use 90 weight gear oil with climbing lube
additive or some STP mixed in to help thicken the mixture and allow the oil to climb the gears. I have had far
fewer gearbox failures since I went to the thicker oil mixture.

Still need to find the chain info. Still looking.