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PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2012 2:38 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
Very good thanks, took your Odyssey for another ride today while between heat cycles with Mudbogger's Pilot made about 4 laps started acting like its running out of gas stopped made sure gas was turned on reserve and it was added about 1 gallon of gas/oil mix started it up had good fuel flow in return line to tank.

I took for another ride same thing after 4 laps around hoser compound it started acting like its out of gas went back to shop removed gas cap blew out the vent to ensure it was venting reinstalled started up again good flow in return line to tank took for another ride same thing about 4 laps running out of gas dumped in another 1.5 gallons of gas/oil mix runs good tank about 1/2 full now.

I think your going to have to remove this tank and fix the issues, it has super fine rust issues I was not really worried about this the Honda filter should catch rust but I think even your reserve pickup tube has an issue.

I have never messed with a gas tank on a 350 what happens when you remove the two bolts that hold on the on off valve does this allow any access to the tubes inside the gas tank?

Anybody?

Here is a picture of the gas cap and the vent, blow air into the hole by blue arrow air comes out by the red arrow. FL350 gas cap vent FL350 gas tank vent.


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PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2012 8:37 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 07, 2012 1:06 pm
Posts: 185
Location: Aurora, IL
Hmmm, that is weird. So once you have the tank at least half full does it run longer then 4 laps?

If you remove the valve it exposes the openings for the main and return lines. I'm not sure what you mean by access, but it would give you access to blow air through them, but that is about it. I believe the tubes are welded to a flange that is welded to the tank.

Here is a picture of the inside of an FL350 gas tank with the, all so common, broken main line.

Image

As you can see from the pic, it breaks off about mid way down the tank. I'm not sure if there is enough room to get a tool in there to add a new end to it. Also, I have no clue where it is suppose to route from this point. Hoser, should I consider replacing this tank with one of the aluminum gas tanks?


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PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2012 9:00 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
Nelly wrote:
Hmmm, that is weird. So once you have the tank at least half full does it run longer then 4 laps?

If you remove the valve it exposes the openings for the main and return lines. I'm not sure what you mean by access, but it would give you access to blow air through them, but that is about it. I believe the tubes are welded to a flange that is welded to the tank.

Here is a picture of the inside of an FL350 gas tank with the, all so common, broken main line.

Image

As you can see from the pic, it breaks off about mid way down the tank. I'm not sure if there is enough room to get a tool in there to add a new end to it. Also, I have no clue where it is suppose to route from this point. Hoser, should I consider replacing this tank with one of the aluminum gas tanks?



After adding more gas it seem to be ok but I want to take it on a 10 lap run tomorrow to find out for sure.


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PostPosted: Sat May 19, 2012 12:24 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
Update:
New Honda filters arrived yesterday I removed the current filter and replace with the Honda filter, removed the carb drain cap clean it out took it for about a 6 lap around the yard ride all seem fine.

Cut open the old filter you should see the crap inside, about how many gallons of gas has been run through this tank since you installed this filter? What brand of filter were you using?


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Shook up the filter and dumped it out before cutting it open

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PostPosted: Sat May 19, 2012 1:27 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 07, 2012 1:06 pm
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Location: Aurora, IL
YUK! That is pretty nasty! I only had about 2-3 tanks run through this filter. I got the filter from that OddATV1 guy on ebay (this was before I found this site). I think the majority of this is coming from having the tank sandblasted and recoated. I think the sandblasting loosened any rust that may have been left behind in the tank. I guess I didn't flush it good enough before I installed it.

So it seems to be running good then? (aside from the full throttle take off)


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PostPosted: Sat May 19, 2012 1:54 pm 
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Location: Chicago
Nelly wrote:
YUK! That is pretty nasty! I only had about 2-3 tanks run through this filter. I got the filter from that OddATV1 guy on ebay (this was before I found this site). I think the majority of this is coming from having the tank sandblasted and recoated. I think the sandblasting loosened any rust that may have been left behind in the tank. I guess I didn't flush it good enough before I installed it.

So it seems to be running good then? (aside from the full throttle take off)


Yeah seems ok, its running on the rich side but their is no need jetting until you adjust the clutching, we need to setup a local ride with Tim and adjust your clutching the same time we dial his in, yours bogs it almost seems like its engaging at a lower RPM than you would expect the stock clutch to engage, to take advantage of the pipe it really needs to be adjusted.

Never messed with the 94C turning I would see if I could find what others are running go from their, if it was mine I would order some springs and pucks and play I might even remove the pucks you have in the stock one then drill some holes in them to lighten them up, reinstall then try, removing weight should shift the RPMs up across the board, don't see where you have anything to lose by drilling them other than if you remove too much weight not sure you can add weight back, I would not want to drill and experiment until I had replacement pucks in hand.

If you knew the weight difference between the part numbers they list on the chart with available pucks you could take one puck and the battery drill to the post office drill a hole and see the weight difference then drill until you matched the weight of the pucks they sell and look like what you need, hopefully they are cheap enough you can just buy and play.

Surprised this tuning info for the 94C on a FL350 is not already documented, again your clutch tune feels like a stock clutch to me.

Hopefully the majority of the rust is in that filter and the future rust will not be as much, I always found rust dust in my Pilot filter since the day I bought my Pilot up until I removed the tank to install the 440 Engine.

After a few tanks I would remove this filter, shake it up and dump it out see what you get then back flush it with carb cleaner, I would also remove the cap off the float bowl on the carb and see if this Honda filter is catching the crap.

Pretty sure I have done all I can do at this point.

Clutch tune charts http://www.pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewtopic.php?t=3089


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PostPosted: Sat May 19, 2012 2:17 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 15, 2009 3:05 am
Posts: 1228
Location: Chicago
We have much to do once I get back from this wonderful country!


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PostPosted: Sat May 19, 2012 3:55 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
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Location: Chicago
Tpreed wrote:
We have much to do once I get back from this wonderful country!


Post some pics tell us about your trip mutt, I figured you were dead.


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PostPosted: Sun May 20, 2012 12:14 am 
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Joined: Thu Jan 12, 2012 11:35 am
Posts: 2010
Location: Ottawa, IL
Count me in for this tuning session. Got the joint problem fixed(I think) and finished up some more small stuff. I put the yellow spring in my 94c and it's still engaging very low. I need to figure out how to hook up the tach to see where it's at for sure.


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PostPosted: Sun May 20, 2012 10:11 am 
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Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
Fatcat wrote:
Count me in for this tuning session. Got the joint problem fixed(I think) and finished up some more small stuff. I put the yellow spring in my 94c and it's still engaging very low. I need to figure out how to hook up the tach to see where it's at for sure.


We need to find a FL350/94C owner that already has one calibrated so we have a starting point, I know MGR use to have one on her 350 I will shoot her a email ask if she remembers what she used.


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PostPosted: Sun May 20, 2012 11:36 am 
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Joined: Mon Jun 15, 2009 3:05 am
Posts: 1228
Location: Chicago
hoser wrote:
Fatcat wrote:
Count me in for this tuning session. Got the joint problem fixed(I think) and finished up some more small stuff. I put the yellow spring in my 94c and it's still engaging very low. I need to figure out how to hook up the tach to see where it's at for sure.


We need to find a FL350/94C owner that already has one calibrated so we have a starting point, I know MGR use to have one on her 350 I will shoot her a email ask if she remembers what she used.


I have a 94c that is spot on!.. I also have about the same exact Engine and mod setup that Nelly has.


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PostPosted: Mon May 21, 2012 8:37 am 
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Joined: Wed Mar 07, 2012 1:06 pm
Posts: 185
Location: Aurora, IL
Tpreed wrote:
hoser wrote:
Fatcat wrote:
Count me in for this tuning session. Got the joint problem fixed(I think) and finished up some more small stuff. I put the yellow spring in my 94c and it's still engaging very low. I need to figure out how to hook up the tach to see where it's at for sure.


We need to find a FL350/94C owner that already has one calibrated so we have a starting point, I know MGR use to have one on her 350 I will shoot her a email ask if she remembers what she used.


I have a 94c that is spot on!.. I also have about the same exact Engine and mod setup that Nelly has.


Awesome! Do you remember what color spring you are running?


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PostPosted: Mon May 21, 2012 10:25 am 
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Joined: Mon Jun 15, 2009 3:05 am
Posts: 1228
Location: Chicago
Nelly wrote:
Tpreed wrote:
hoser wrote:
Fatcat wrote:
Count me in for this tuning session. Got the joint problem fixed(I think) and finished up some more small stuff. I put the yellow spring in my 94c and it's still engaging very low. I need to figure out how to hook up the tach to see where it's at for sure.


We need to find a FL350/94C owner that already has one calibrated so we have a starting point, I know MGR use to have one on her 350 I will shoot her a email ask if she remembers what she used.


I have a 94c that is spot on!.. I also have about the same exact Engine and mod setup that Nelly has.


Awesome! Do you remember what color spring you are running?



I think the clutch in the 94c CSI in the clutching section was mine... viewtopic.php?f=28&t=6719


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PostPosted: Mon May 21, 2012 10:32 am 
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Joined: Wed Mar 07, 2012 1:06 pm
Posts: 185
Location: Aurora, IL
Hmmm, you appear to be running the same spring as me already. Wonder if your pucks are different?


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 02, 2012 1:27 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 07, 2012 1:06 pm
Posts: 185
Location: Aurora, IL
Well, I rigged up a temporary gas tank this morning and took it for a spin. It ran like a champ! I drove it for a good 15-20 min with lots of WOT (Wide Open Throttle) action. Even had it in the air a couple of times. :-)

So looks like my tank is the issue. I am waiting on pictures of a tank that another member here said he had available. If not ill look into modifying my current tank. Things are looking up! :::


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 02, 2012 1:57 pm 
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Joined: Sun Dec 24, 2006 5:58 pm
Posts: 2319
Location: near NJ rider
Good news!


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 02, 2012 2:37 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
I hate rust!

Keep the old tank anyways I would still like to look inside I am sure we will be seeing many more with this same exact problem in the future might as well figure out a way to save the tank if we can?


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