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PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 10:59 am 
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Joined: Wed Mar 07, 2012 1:06 pm
Posts: 185
Location: Aurora, IL
Hello all! I am new to this forum and to Odysseys as well. I was directed here by another forum member who suggested I share my restore with you guys. Below is a cut and paste from another forum that I am documenting this restore on. So the time line will go by quick for my first post. Hope you all enjoy!


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---2/26/12---

So, I was at one of one of my co-workers house a few months ago to help him work on his Jeep. He was showing me around his property (he has about 7 acres) and I ran across this:

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So naturally when I saw this sitting there being neglected, I wanted to make it mine. After a few weeks of bugging him at work, he finally agreed to sell the thing to me. I met him back at his house so we could pull it out of its dirty, spiderweb infested grave. We got her onto the drive way and imediatly noticed some issues with it. The motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) had compression, but it wouldn't start (It hadn't been started in almost 5 years). The brakes were shot, the safety nets rotted, front fender flares broken off, and the seat looked like a small animal was feeding on it. On the plus side, it did have aftermarket clutch, Douglas aluminum wheels, and a DG race pipe.

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At any rate, I knew I wanted it. The buggy is complete, and was the perfect starting point for a project. So we struck a deal and she is now mine!

Once I got it home I started to tear into it. I pulled the carb and cleaned it, installed new fuel lines and filter, flushed out the gas tank and after that she fired right up! :-)

Now that I knew she was a runner, I've decided to go through the whole thing and do a complete restore on it. I have lots of new parts on order, and figured I would share my progress here.

---2/26/12---

So the front fenders on this thing are broken into like 5 pieces and the rears were cracked as well (it was rolled a couple of times). Unfortunately, since new reproduction fenders are over $600 I decided my funds need to be directed to more important things at this time. So, I chose to frankenzip these back together.

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Once I had them back together I coated them with truck bedliner spray to help cover the cracks and give them a little extra rigidity.

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Then I painted them white again. These will have to do for now.

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---2/27/12---

After my less then stellar attempt to repaint/touch up the frame, I decided to strip her down completely. The frame and all the little bits went out for sandblasting and fresh powder coat!

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I have a complete stainless steel bolt kit to put her all back together with too!

Side note: I scored a near mint seat from fleabay! No more sitting on rats nest!! :-)

---3/7/12---

Parts are back from the powdercoater! Just need some more warm weather so I can start to put this bad boy back together.

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---3/12/12---

I had a beautiful weekend to spend working on the Ody. I accomplished quite a bit too. Everything is going back in pretty smoothly, although I have had a few areas that were extra tight due to the new powdercoat. About 80% of the bolts being used to reassemble this are new polished stainless steel. Here are a few more shots for you guys.

Here is the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) and trans mounted up.

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A shot of the brake lines, E-brake handle and cables, and shifter and linkage mounted up!

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Here I have the front & rear swing arms, hubs, foot well, and steering wheel & column installed.

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Then I mounted up the cooling fins/wings and the rear portion of the roll cage.

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Threw in the seat just to see how she looked.

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Installed the gas tank and a few misc things, then bolted up a couple wheels to see ho she looked.

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The above is how she is currently sitting. I am now waiting on my new suspension to arrive and need to get my aluminum rims off to the coater. Gonna have them done in the same gloss black before I mount up the new rubber! After that all that is left is steering linkage, exhaust, brake fluid & bleed, and wiring up the new headlights! :-)

Speaking of headlights I have decided to ditch the factory halogens (which were for shit anyways). In their spot will be a set of Rigid Dually LED lights. These things are awesome. Each houses 4 super bright LEDs. They draw way less current and the pair will put out 1300 lumens.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 11:39 am 
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Joined: Thu Apr 22, 2010 11:38 pm
Posts: 1785
Location: New Mexico
Welcome to the group, & Very nice work.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 11:52 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 25, 2004 10:02 am
Posts: 2865
Location: East Peoria IL
Looks like you are doing a good job. I recommend you discard the stainless kit and reuse the OEM bolt. Stainlees steel bolts are not as strong.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 1:26 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:21 am
Posts: 2681
Location: NW Ohio / SE Michigan
rmesser wrote:
Looks like you are doing a good job. I recommend you discard the stainless kit and reuse the OEM bolt. Stainlees steel bolts are not as strong.


Ditto that. There's a reason those kits are so cheap.

Great build though. You really brought the life into those parts!

What did the blasting and p-coat cost, if you don't mind me asking? I have a local guy that I may have do my frame.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 1:30 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:21 am
Posts: 2681
Location: NW Ohio / SE Michigan
Here are those Rigid LED lights....

http://www.desertrat.com/products/?id=7769

Not a bad price, and nice to see they only draw 15w.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 2:47 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 07, 2012 1:06 pm
Posts: 185
Location: Aurora, IL
Thanks for the input guys! Unfortunately, since I have already paid for the bolt kit and the thing is nearly all put back together I think I will just stick with what I got and have my spare factory bolts with me in case something breaks. For the most part it's the smaller bolts that have been replaced. All the large suspension type bolts I am using original hardware.

DMoney: I can get those lights for less than in that link. If you are interested, I can pass along the info.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 11:46 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 07, 2012 1:06 pm
Posts: 185
Location: Aurora, IL
DMoneyAllstar wrote:

What did the blasting and p-coat cost, if you don't mind me asking? I have a local guy that I may have do my frame.


Sorry, I forgot to answer this. The blasting and coating of all the red and black parts ran me just over $500.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 16, 2012 3:28 am 
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Joined: Mon Jun 15, 2009 3:05 am
Posts: 1228
Location: Chicago
Nelly wrote:
DMoneyAllstar wrote:

What did the blasting and p-coat cost, if you don't mind me asking? I have a local guy that I may have do my frame.


Sorry, I forgot to answer this. The blasting and coating of all the red and black parts ran me just over $500.


I am very interested in your coating guy... the price seems right. I plan on tearing the 350 down and restoring (as best as possible)
also, would you be interested in parting with those frankenfenders? (assuming you have new freshy fresh ones. ;) Are you available to make the seat/mani trade this weekend. probably sunday or tuesday?


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 16, 2012 8:22 am 
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Joined: Wed Mar 07, 2012 1:06 pm
Posts: 185
Location: Aurora, IL
I can pass along my coaters info if you like. He is about 20 min west of me, so it would be kind of a hall for you.

I would be willing to part with the frankenfenders. One of the rears will have to be recoated/painted (long story) but if you are interested in them, I'd be willing to let them go. I also have a tub that has been repainted too if you are interested.

Actually, I have 3 other fenders (fronts and 1 rear) in excellent condition that I may part with as well. Haven't decided if I should part with those yet though.

I am available this Sunday but it would have to be later in the day (after 4). Tuesday I could do anytime after 3. Just let me know what you would like to do.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 16, 2012 9:15 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 25, 2004 10:02 am
Posts: 2865
Location: East Peoria IL
just a thought - do you think white bedliner spray is available?


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 16, 2012 9:22 am 
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Joined: Wed Mar 07, 2012 1:06 pm
Posts: 185
Location: Aurora, IL
rmesser wrote:
just a thought - do you think white bedliner spray is available?


Not in a rattle can its not. I am sure I could take it to a place and have it done, but I was trying to fix them on the cheap. I would assume they would charge me a few hundred to professionally coat them in white.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 16, 2012 1:25 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 18, 2012 10:19 pm
Posts: 221
Location: South Ogden, UT
You're inspiring, going to start painting some bit's this evening.

Also, Great Job!


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2012 10:39 am 
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Joined: Wed Mar 07, 2012 1:06 pm
Posts: 185
Location: Aurora, IL
Had some more time with her this weekend. The finish line is in sight!

My shocks finally arrived! Here are some pics of them:



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With the Factory wheels and tires mounted. Still need to refinish my aluminum wheels and mount the new tires:


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And finally off the horses!!!



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I was able to score some really nice stock fenders. So no need to use the frankenziped ones now!! I only have 3 of them. The fourth is on its way. I should have it next week.



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My daughters approve of the progress. :D



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I was planning on painting the Douglas aluminum wheels gold to mimic the originals, but I just decided to polish them up instead.

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All that is left now to get her up and running is replacement of a torn intake, a few misc. clamps and cotter pins, and the brake bleed. The end is in sight and I am getting excited!!


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2012 11:50 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 25, 2004 10:02 am
Posts: 2865
Location: East Peoria IL
Nice job - Did you get that muffler off ebay? Is that from the guy who said he had a batch of 100 or so made?


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2012 12:14 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 07, 2012 1:06 pm
Posts: 185
Location: Aurora, IL
rmesser wrote:
Nice job - Did you get that muffler off ebay? Is that from the guy who said he had a batch of 100 or so made?


Thanks! Yes it is the muffler from that same guy. The build quality is fantastic, and it is much quieter then the DG silencer I had on it originally.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2012 12:32 pm 
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Joined: Thu Apr 22, 2010 11:38 pm
Posts: 1785
Location: New Mexico
Very nice work.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2012 12:44 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
Beautiful machine your whole body will love those WORKS shocks.

Looks like your going to need a few more 350's in a few years :-)


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2012 1:50 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:21 am
Posts: 2681
Location: NW Ohio / SE Michigan
Very nice, indeed. It's a brand new 27-yr old toy! Kudos.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2012 3:33 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 12, 2012 11:35 am
Posts: 2010
Location: Ottawa, IL
Very nice work! I'm quite local to you. Just for reference who did the powder coating for you? Thanks


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2012 3:47 pm 
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Joined: Sun Dec 21, 2003 11:30 pm
Posts: 537
Location: Nebraska
Very Nice Resto...
(Better than Stock)

Do yourself a big favor and do NOT switch to the Douglas aluminum rims
(I'll bet the offset is not correct on those and the steering will fight you - just wait till you catch a rut with them)

There is nothing wrong with the OEM stockers...

Dennis


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2012 4:35 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 07, 2012 1:06 pm
Posts: 185
Location: Aurora, IL
hoser wrote:
Beautiful machine your whole body will love those WORKS shocks.

Looks like your going to need a few more 350's in a few years :-)


I hope not! :-) They are 2 and 4, so I am I hoping I have a while. These things aren't cheap. Haha.

Fatcat wrote:
Very nice work! I'm quite local to you. Just for reference who did the powder coating for you? Thanks


Thanks! The place is called Fox Valley Sandblasting and Powder Coating.

FL670R wrote:
Very Nice Resto...
(Better than Stock)

Do yourself a big favor and do NOT switch to the Douglas aluminum rims
(I'll bet the offset is not correct on those and the steering will fight you - just wait till you catch a rut with them)

There is nothing wrong with the OEM stockers...

Dennis


Dennis, can you please educate me? How would I know if I have the right offset? When I bought this the Douglas rims were on it, and I didnt notice any complications with the steering. Is it possible I have a set with the proper offset?


Thanks to all for the kind words and info. like the title states, I am a newb when it comes to these, so I appreciate all your input!

-Dave


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2012 5:17 pm 
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Joined: Sat Mar 26, 2011 5:47 pm
Posts: 68
Did you have the steering unit coated with or without the rubber grips on?

That thing looks beautiful!


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2012 5:45 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
Nelly wrote:
hoser wrote:
Beautiful machine your whole body will love those WORKS shocks.

Looks like your going to need a few more 350's in a few years :-)


I hope not! :-) They are 2 and 4, so I am I hoping I have a while. These things aren't cheap. Haha.

Fatcat wrote:
Very nice work! I'm quite local to you. Just for reference who did the powder coating for you? Thanks


Thanks! The place is called Fox Valley Sandblasting and Powder Coating.

FL670R wrote:
Very Nice Resto...
(Better than Stock)

Do yourself a big favor and do NOT switch to the Douglas aluminum rims
(I'll bet the offset is not correct on those and the steering will fight you - just wait till you catch a rut with them)

There is nothing wrong with the OEM stockers...

Dennis


Dennis, can you please educate me? How would I know if I have the right offset? When I bought this the Douglas rims were on it, and I didnt notice any complications with the steering. Is it possible I have a set with the proper offset?


Thanks to all for the kind words and info. like the title states, I am a newb when it comes to these, so I appreciate all your input!

-Dave


Right on FL670 is right the correct offset is everything, probably the easiest way to see the difference or to measure is to install a stock rim on one side then a after market on the other side you want the center of the tire as close to the center of the ball joint as possible if you get outside that center line the leverage works against you, I learned the hard way on this years ago when I first got my Pilot, if the offset is not bad enough to rip the steering yoke out of your hands and make you bleed your constantly fighting it and it adds to driver fatigue.

Most the time when guys are racing or riding real aggressive they get arm pump and cramps in their hands because they tens up naturally then you add the bad offset fight its a real bad combination its great for guys who have the stock rims and are racing guys with the after market rims you can let that wrong offset do most of the work for you, wait for them to get all pumped up and tired then about 3/4 the way through the race bump their rear bumper a few times like you want them to go faster in a few turns they will make a big mistake then you pass them :-)


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2012 5:53 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 07, 2012 1:06 pm
Posts: 185
Location: Aurora, IL
pilotscott wrote:
Did you have the steering unit coated with or without the rubber grips on?

That thing looks beautiful!


Thanks! The steering wheel was coated with out the rubber grips on. Everything that was removable, was removed.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2012 6:00 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 07, 2012 1:06 pm
Posts: 185
Location: Aurora, IL
hoser wrote:
Right on FL670 is right the correct offset is everything, probably the easiest way to see the difference or to measure is to install a stock rim on one side then a after market on the other side you want the center of the tire as close to the center of the ball joint as possible if you get outside that center line the leverage works against you, I learned the hard way on this years ago when I first got my Pilot, if the offset is not bad enough to rip the steering yoke out of your hands and make you bleed your constantly fighting it and it adds to driver fatigue.

Most the time when guys are racing or riding real aggressive they get arm pump and cramps in their hands because they tens up naturally then you add the bad offset fight its a real bad combination its great for guys who have the stock rims and are racing guys with the after market rims you can let that wrong offset do most of the work for you, wait for them to get all pumped up and tired then about 3/4 the way through the race bump their rear bumper a few times like you want them to go faster in a few turns they will make a big mistake then you pass them :-)


OK, I'll see what the difference is in offset between the 2. Just looking at the douglas wheel it looks to be 5" wide with 2" to the outside and 3" to the inside.

Thanks,
Dave


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