Sup guys,

Ok after much thought and help from this forum I decided to redo top end on my pilot my self. check out the pics and give me your input.
can I just get away with a hone or do i need to bore? any suggestions appreciated thanks

Here is what I would do if that cylinder came across my bench, first I would remove all the studs they will be nothing but in the way, then I would get out a plastic tub and break out the muratic acid, a old tooth brush, a small plastic cup like a cap off a spray can, then put about 1 table spoon of acid in the plastic cap then put some on the cylinder wall to dissolve the aluminum that is smeared on the cylinder wall, rinse repeat until ALL the aluminum on the cylinder is gone.

Do you need a safety speech about working with acid in a well ventilated area and all the hazards involved, you can read and UNDERSTAND all the safety warnings on the side of the bottle ? You will have plenty of water ready in case something goes wrong, you will have a box of baking soda at the ready, face shield, well ventilated area all that good stuff or are you a moron and will need to take a trip to the emergency room then hire a lawyer lmao.... Plan for the worse hope for the best.

After all the aluminum is removed I would then hone it with my ridged hone (not a ball hone or spring hone) to see what the condition of the cylinder wall is if its worn even I will continue to hone it until its ready for a new piston then I measure the bore and look in the manaul to see if the cylinder bore is with in spec for that bore size.

A example of what I am talking about here http://pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewtopic.ph ... ight=an112

Another example of the ridged hone on a 4 stroke viewtopic.php?f=24&t=5479&start=25

Here is a bore inspection on a TRX250R viewtopic.php?t=2404

Another bore inspection viewtopic.php?f=1&t=5468

If the cylinder still looks straight its then time to measure it as outlined in the manual go from their.

Tell us more about your Pilot and its modifications, how long you owned it how long since last rebuild, what happen that caused the poofkaboom, , any jetting info more details the better...

Looks like the cylinder has been ported to me.

I was hoping the famous hoser would give me some pointers!! thanks for the info

I have owned it for the past 8yrs and this is the first time im doing any kind of motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) work to it. the previous owner said it has a stage 2 Engine and it ran well till this past november when it dumped. it poofkaboomed in glamis, i got a lil confortable with the throttle on a long straight away and then POOF...

question for ya! how much would the great hoser charge to bore?

I also came up on this electronic version manual if any one needs it check attachment

thanks

I get 35 bux to bore and hone, you pay shipping both ways you remove and reinstall studs, add 15 bux if you want me to play with the acid to clean up the cylinder, if you do it after you dry the cylinder make sure to oil the steel bore really well so it don't rust.

are you super busy right now? whats your turn around time?

Yeah I am real busy right now but I can do yours the day it arrives here.

Once its here I will un-box then do as I described above so we can establish what size piston you need soon as I know I will post that info here and or send you a PM or email so you can order the piston.

By time I receive your cylinder I should be getting caught up by time I get the piston I should be really caught up

What are the numbers on your current piston I could not read them.

Best price on the piston kits I have seen was at http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com but you might want to search around see if you can locate a better deal, you also can have it shipped right to my address when you order.

You can ask others here where they buy they might also be able to help locate a deal.

Hoserized, then top it off with a coolhead from speedchaser and you'll be set!