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Newbie From Texas
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Author:  jivy88 [ Mon Oct 14, 2013 2:03 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Newbie From Texas

hoser wrote:
jivy88 wrote:
hoser wrote:
Wow looks like you tweaked the cage pretty good maybe you can get it out in the sun take some better over all pics from different angles.

Front brakes working? I use the fronts 90% of the time on my Pilot (same brakes) but the rears are fun for sliding around :-) a quick hit on fronts right before you lock up the rears helps scrub off a bunch of speed before the stunt driving.



after bleeding and replacing pads the Front brakes are still really mushy. its more like a suggestion to stop, LOL, and then it'll tell me, No I don't think so. it hit harder than I thought on that first roll. I just got some stainless lines in the mail that I ordered to put on the front, like I did for the back. waiting on rain to stop here to get it out, there should be a brake in it sometime. Hopefully I'll be able to find another cage and give this one to someone here that would know how to fix it, if possible. I get better pictures when I can.


don't give up on the front brakes yet, if your pretty sure you have all the air out adjust the front brakes with the rims on and so tight its hard to rotate the front tire, really dragging hard, you want the front shoe (leading shoe) to contact first then the following shoe

Once you get both sides done then bleed the brakes one more time and make sure your cables are as tight as you can get them without it moving the pistons.

Go ride it use the shit out of the brakes, with drums you usually have to make them wear to match the drums so might have to adjust them a few times after they are worn to match and you have them adjusted right you wont need to adjust them for a long wile and if you used Honda shoes its probably the last set you will need to ever buy.

With them adjusted real tight and dragging slightly you can over heat the drums enough where the brakes will lock up so take short rides at first check the temps so your not stranded from home or camp with locked up brakes lol

Once dialed in you can lock them up on pavement if you wanted and they are impossible to over heat.



Cool, I'm going to copy and keep this with me to try. Thanks
I'm one of those that can fix it, if I have all the parts and good direction to go by. However, if I have to fabricate stuff like you guy do I'm afraid of what the out come might be right now. "If it ain't bolt on, then it ain't going on" LOL. but I think this thing just may eventually change that.

Author:  hoser [ Mon Oct 14, 2013 2:21 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Newbie From Texas

jivy88 wrote:
hoser wrote:
jivy88 wrote:
hoser wrote:
Wow looks like you tweaked the cage pretty good maybe you can get it out in the sun take some better over all pics from different angles.

Front brakes working? I use the fronts 90% of the time on my Pilot (same brakes) but the rears are fun for sliding around :-) a quick hit on fronts right before you lock up the rears helps scrub off a bunch of speed before the stunt driving.



after bleeding and replacing pads the Front brakes are still really mushy. its more like a suggestion to stop, LOL, and then it'll tell me, No I don't think so. it hit harder than I thought on that first roll. I just got some stainless lines in the mail that I ordered to put on the front, like I did for the back. waiting on rain to stop here to get it out, there should be a brake in it sometime. Hopefully I'll be able to find another cage and give this one to someone here that would know how to fix it, if possible. I get better pictures when I can.


don't give up on the front brakes yet, if your pretty sure you have all the air out adjust the front brakes with the rims on and so tight its hard to rotate the front tire, really dragging hard, you want the front shoe (leading shoe) to contact first then the following shoe

Once you get both sides done then bleed the brakes one more time and make sure your cables are as tight as you can get them without it moving the pistons.

Go ride it use the shit out of the brakes, with drums you usually have to make them wear to match the drums so might have to adjust them a few times after they are worn to match and you have them adjusted right you wont need to adjust them for a long wile and if you used Honda shoes its probably the last set you will need to ever buy.

With them adjusted real tight and dragging slightly you can over heat the drums enough where the brakes will lock up so take short rides at first check the temps so your not stranded from home or camp with locked up brakes lol

Once dialed in you can lock them up on pavement if you wanted and they are impossible to over heat.



Cool, I'm going to copy and keep this with me to try. Thanks
I'm one of those that can fix it, if I have all the parts and good direction to go by. However, if I have to fabricate stuff like you guy do I'm afraid of what the out come might be right now. "If it ain't bolt on, then it ain't going on" LOL. but I think this thing just may eventually change that.

If you can fix anyhting your half way their, same with me if I know the theory of operation chances are I can fix it.

I or we were not born with any fabrication skills so put fabrication next on your list then you can do your own :shock:

Author:  nickRNR [ Mon Oct 14, 2013 3:09 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Newbie From Texas

jivy88 wrote:
nickRNR wrote:
If I were you, I would drain the old gas and start over fresh. I would also put a bung in the filler neck of the tank and put the fuel pump back on. It sounds like it is starving for fuel on top end and jetting will not cure that (if this is the case anyway).


Bung in the filler neck? it has a shut-off valve under the tank, that the fuel line attaches to, if that's what you mean. I'd have to buy a fuel pump and everything to connect it up, Would it be better/easier to get a carb that'll work the Gravity tank? or will have the same problem?


You need to add a bung in the filler neck above the "full level" for the return line when you add the fuel pump back on. You will have to drill a hole (be careful not to drop aluminum into the tank) and get a brass fitting (bung) to connect the return line to.

Author:  nickRNR [ Mon Oct 14, 2013 3:11 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Newbie From Texas

To fix your cage, remove the seat and place a 2x4 across the lower frame and get a bottle jack. Get another piece of 2x4 and run it from the bottle jack up to the inner part of the cage where it is bent down. Jack it up slowly and try to bend it back upwards. Shoubadaba is pretty good at doing this. Maybe he can offer more help.

Author:  jivy88 [ Tue Oct 15, 2013 9:21 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Newbie From Texas

nickRNR wrote:
jivy88 wrote:
nickRNR wrote:
If I were you, I would drain the old gas and start over fresh. I would also put a bung in the filler neck of the tank and put the fuel pump back on. It sounds like it is starving for fuel on top end and jetting will not cure that (if this is the case anyway).


Bung in the filler neck? it has a shut-off valve under the tank, that the fuel line attaches to, if that's what you mean. I'd have to buy a fuel pump and everything to connect it up, Would it be better/easier to get a carb that'll work the Gravity tank? or will have the same problem?


You need to add a bung in the filler neck above the "full level" for the return line when you add the fuel pump back on. You will have to drill a hole (be careful not to drop aluminum into the tank) and get a brass fitting (bung) to connect the return line to.




May need help with a diagram or pic, etc. All I have found so far as a fuel pump is: Mikuni Rectangular Fuel Pump, I believe it's a pulse pump. lay-out wise, all I have seen, is this octopus looking setup in the Honda Manual for a Keihin and stock tank. kind of gives me a ideal of were stuff goes.

So basically I'll drill and tap for a brass fitting in the filler neck of the tank. run the gas feed line at the bottom of the tank to a fuel filter and then to the pump. from pump to a y-fitting. one line of from the y fitting goes to Carb the other line from the y fitting goes back to the tank bung. I see this pump has three connections to it, I'm not sure where the pulse line on top of the pump goes too. Is this the line that the diagram shows to go to the crankcase? the actually pictures that show how its hooked up in the Manual are really bad, and I can't see where they are going/connecting things too.

Do I need to change the gas cap from a vented to a non-vented cap?

Thanks for the help. :)

Author:  Randman [ Tue Oct 15, 2013 11:03 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Newbie From Texas

Yes, you will still need to use a vented fuel cap.

Plumbing is actually simple.

Here is the layout if you are using a Mikuni (aftermarket square) fuel pump.....

1.) The pulse line (from the crankcase) goes to the top of the pump.
2.) If you look at the picture below, the nipple that is closest to the center of the Ody is the line the runs to the carburetor and is also "T"d to the fitting you are going to put in the neck of the gas tank.
3.) The line that is pointing towards the fender of the Ody is the intake line from the fuel tank.

Now you will either need to obtain a Odyssey fuel "T" or you will need to put a .190 jet in the fuel line returning to your fuel neck. Without this restriction, you will get fuel starvation at full throttle.

Thanks go to DMoneyAllstar for the picture!

Rand

Attachments:
MIkuni Plumbing.jpg
MIkuni Plumbing.jpg [ 71.61 KiB | Viewed 323 times ]

Author:  jivy88 [ Tue Oct 15, 2013 12:05 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Newbie From Texas

Randman wrote:
Yes, you will still need to use a vented fuel cap.

Plumbing is actually simple.

Here is the layout if you are using a Mikuni (aftermarket square) fuel pump.....

1.) The pulse line (from the crankcase) goes to the top of the pump.
2.) If you look at the picture below, the nipple that is closest to the center of the Ody is the line the runs to the carburetor and is also "T"d to the fitting you are going to put in the neck of the gas tank.
3.) The line that is pointing towards the fender of the Ody is the intake line from the fuel tank.

Now you will either need to obtain a Odyssey fuel "T" or you will need to put a .190 jet in the fuel line returning to your fuel neck. Without this restriction, you will get fuel starvation at full throttle.

Thanks go to DMoneyAllstar for the picture!

Rand



ah-ha, cool, this helps out a lot. I just need to figure out how/where to mount it. it doesn't have to sit flat like that dose it? I have a couple of ideals that may work, we'll see.

Attachment:
Odyssey 3.jpg
Odyssey 3.jpg [ 48.12 KiB | Viewed 321 times ]


Attachments:
fuel pump plumbing.JPG
fuel pump plumbing.JPG [ 71.61 KiB | Viewed 322 times ]

Author:  nickRNR [ Tue Oct 15, 2013 12:37 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Newbie From Texas

Special thanks to Randman for using the word "nipple"

If you use a stock Honda "T" with a check ball, you will not need a main jet in the return line. Just make sure to attach the return line on the side of the "T" with the check ball.

Author:  Randman [ Tue Oct 15, 2013 1:08 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Newbie From Texas

Thanks Nick. For you nipifiles.....Normal nipple, Flat nipple, puffy nipple, Short nipple, long nipple, Inverted grade 1 nipple, Inverted grade 2 nipple, Inverted grade 3 nipple.....there that just about covers it! HA HA HA! :shock:

Anyway, the fuel pump can be mounted in any configuration you like and doesn't have to be oriented in the horizontal position.

Rand

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