Hello everyone, just purchased my first Fl350r last week. I've been scanning the net for things I had questions on and most of the time ended up finding the answer on these forums, so I thought I'd join. Cheers

Welcome.

Give us some time there are a ton of smart people here that will chime in.

Thanks

Welcome new guy.
This site is slow now but has more info than ANY other site.

I see you need to do some work there.
It has stock rear springs -- they are WAY to stiff. You need to order new springs.
I see sun faded wrist restraints and seat belts -- they need to be replaced.

My list of things to check on an oddy when you are doing an Engine job or bought one

1) Fuel - your fuel pump must put out about 4.5 oz/ten seconds approx and your fuel must meet minimum octane rating in manual. I run straight avgas or you can mix it 50/50 with pump fuel.
2) Do the vent modification - use the search box above.
Vent mod threads:
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=6309&hilit=no+case+modification
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=17606&hilit=vent+mod
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=18016&start=25
3) Check your stock intake manifold - they're 30yrs old and crack just looking at them.
4) Check your reeds, they must seal or you could get low compression reading on your gauge. Make sure your gauge is accurate.
5) Engine must pass pressure AND vacuum test - if it doesn't don't even start it, find the leak. I use 10psi max pressure and 10in vacuum in my tests and it must hold for half hour minimum.
6) Rebuild the starter, it is a big job after the Engine is in the machine.
7) Gas tank - if it's rusty inside get it cleaned and coated at a rad shop. If you look inside with a flashlight and it looks like the pickup tubes are rusted I would tap the tank drain plug and draw fuel from there. My machines are like that now.
8) Original fuel pump and vacuum lines are junk now after 30yrs so replace them.
9) Remove the drive shafts and make sure the u joints are good and grease the splines.
10) Check the wheel bearings.
11) Over fill the transmission -- put two quarts of oil in it. It's a splash lube system and the driven shaft bearing don't get any lube unless you are driving so don't rev it in the driveway all day long
12) Adjust your brakes - I set them (F & R) so I can feel a bit of drag.
13) If doing an Engine rebuild do NOT use the paper base gasket as it blows out. Must use the metal one.
14) Must build shock savers. viewtopic.php?f=1&t=15745&hilit=shock+saver+chain
15) Replace the rear springs with 155lbs units. Stock ones are way to stiff. https://www.summitracing.com/int/search ... 0.188.0160 http://www.naake.com/store/1.88-id
16) Some good info here: viewtopic.php?f=26&t=15392&hilit=danifold
And here: viewtopic.php?f=5&t=17468
17) Jack the front of the machine up and grab the front tire top and bottom with your hands. Pull the top toward you. If there is a lot of play then that means your J arm bushings are shot.
18) While it is still jacked up grab the steering wheel and move it side to side gently. If the steering wheel turns a bit before your wheels do then it probably still has the original rod ends and they are shot. Look under the machine and if you see the rubber boots around those rod ends at the end of the steering column then most likely they are originals --- they're toast, and they are pricey.
19) DO NOT rev the pizz out your machine while it’s just sitting there. The transmission is a splash lube system so this means it gets NO LUBE unless you are moving. There are several threads on blown AB bearings in the transmission. If you blow your AB you’re done, no parts available anymore.
20) You can get a free pdf manual here: https://oddatv.com/fl250-fl350-factory-manuals/

You can find all this info and parts books, serial numbers, etc in this thread: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=18393

Wow, thanks for the info. After looking it over I have found these things already. 1 Front bushings are shot 2 Brakes are almost non existent 3 Parking Brake doesn't work 4 Tank is in great shape 5 Needs tires and rims all the way around 6 Needs right side mirror 7 Tie rods are not so great 8 Rear suspension might as well be a solid axle with the way the rear shocks feel 9 Rear brake light needs to be wired up 10 Has the original tool box and tools 11 Front bumper is bent and welded 12 Looks like the po wired up a tether switch on the steering wheel?

Also was looking at either getting a liquid cooled head and radiator with fan or doing a rotax motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) swap. Not too sure about the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) swap because I plan on registering it and riding trails here in Wisconsin

In my opinion, do all the things on your list first. Get the 350 running correctly. They make a ton of power when running right. You may decide shelling $2000 for a Rotax isn't really worth it.


Water cooled is always a good idea though.

Does anybody have a lead on where I can get j arm bushings? It appears that all four of them have seen better days.

Look on eBay, speed chaser sells a set that he makes and on one of the ody/pilot forums I noticed he just posted about adding some to his store.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/FL350-Honda-od ... SwG4ZdlQsd
Bob

Perfect, thank you

How is your project coming along? Any updates or pics?

Project is coming along at a snail's pace, I've been working 7 days a week since march and haven't had a whole lot of time to put into the fl350. I did however finish everything but cosmetics on my 200x and got the 350x running lol

Have a bushing kit, Reed gaskets, and base gasket on the way thanks to speed chaser. Cheers

i bought the front disc brake kit from Farr offroads but lost instructions does anybody know how to get hold of him

he is still selling stuff from ebay, I checked his website but did not see his number or email address, he is also a member of this forum.

So I finally started working on my odyssey recently, sold my 85 350x and 86 200x three wheelers for funding. I have contacted methodical and plan on doing his liquid cooled jacked and head system instead of going with the rotax Engine swap. Have a bunch of parts showing up in the next few weeks and I plan on pulling the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) this week and rebuilding the bottom end. I also have a 3/8" dewalt impact on the way to make things easier with disassembling the case. Along with the two puller tools and bearing puller tool I have on the way, do I need any other specialty tools for the rebuild? Thanks

Oh yeah, I would also like to buy rims and tires as the originals are pretty beat up. I was thinking of going with a taller tire front and back for extra ground clearance. My question with that is if I go with taller tires am I going to have to change springs and weights in my clutch to make up for the added power it is going to take to spin them?

Got some work done yesterday and today, much more to come b4 she is ready to rock.

a little JB weld, that piston will be good as new LOL
hard to believe it ran long enough to do all that damage