Hi, new guy from chicagoland here, just picked up my first ever fl250. The amount of help this forum has been, just from my lurking around has been immense.Thanks to everyone for the public sharing of your knowledge. I got the machine in pieces (I love a good project) and it looks to be mostly there, the big thing it is missing is the rear axle, I saw there's one on ebay for about 300$ but I would rather not, if I don't have to. First questions is, does anyone have a spare axle they would be willing to sell, or know of a different machine that has a compatible rear axle?
I also read that the front hubs from a 86-89 trx250r are compatible with these machines so i bought a pair, but I am now starting to think that might have been a mistake, it seems alot of rims out there are 4x110 rather than 4x144, the ones I DO find in 4x144 are typically 10 inch rims, would it look super weird and have adverse performance effects to have 10 inch rims up front and the stock 8's in the back? i don't want the thing to look like its tipping backwards.
Last question (till i think of more) is, I read that a quick way to kill these things is to ignore the fuel pump so I want to make sure its pumping enough. 4.5oz in...however many minutes. Is there a good way to test this if my machine doesn't have electric start?
Thanks for any help!

Welcome.
You may have to wait for answers on this site. It's slow because many members no longer here and those of us left are old (not lying).
Like you said, tremendous amount of info on this site and it seems you have been looking.
I will post some PDF stuff for you below to download and other stuff. It may seem over whelming.
To answer your questions:
1) Wheels -- I don't know the answer
2) Axel -- #42310-950-000 -- It's only used on the FL250's based on service Honda
3) Fuel pump -- this is critical, like you said. Since you don't have a starter you can test it like the FL400 manual says. However I don't like this method because of fire hazard. You start your machine to make sure float bowl is full of fuel. Then shut it off. You pull the hose off the carb (attach longer line ??) and put it into a measuring container that has OZ markings. Now you start machine for 10 seconds (use a stop watch) and shut it down. You need 4.5 oz in 10 sec approx. If you got 4 then you're probably good.
Please remember your machine must start at the lowest idle possible without stalling and the stop watch starts as soon as the machine starts. CAUTION FIRE !!!

Next important info:
1) The best way to find something here is to use the search box above.
In the search box type ONE word ONLY and hit enter. If you don't you will get to many hits.
When the list of threads comes up there will be another search box there on the right.
In that box type ONE word ONLY. Keep doing this as many times as you want until you have narrowed it down. Some common words will be ignored like "Engine" "Honda" etc.
Also at the very bottom of any thread you read will be an area where there a similar threads to the one you are reading. You can click on them to read.
2) Honda FL250 serial numbers:
1977 FL250 1000001-1011921
1978 FL250 1100001-1112345
1979 FL250 2000001-2012620
1980 TB04 2000001-2006315
1981 TB04 BC400001-BC406324
1982 TB04 CC500001-CC514700
1983 TB04 DC600001-DC617555
1984 TB04 EC700051-EC703225
3) Searching for parts:
Below is a pdf of the FL250 parts book. What you do is copy the part number and then go to service honda. Here is the link: https://www.servicehonda.com/error/notf ... rts/lookup
It will come up "page not found". That don't matter. Click on "factory parts". Click on "Honda". Click on "FL models". On the right side is a search box. Enter the part number you are looking for and hit enter. On the list that comes up there will be a small highlighted area that says "where used". Click on it. It will tell you if that part is used on any other machine.
4) I don't know if you have a manual but I will try to attach it below. Hope it works. If not I will provide a link for free download. (I couldn't add the manual). Here is a link: https://oddatv.com/fl250-fl350-factory-manuals/
5) Be patient. Nothing happens fast on this site.
CO

Thanks CO, that's super helpful. Any tips on removing old crank bearings? Ordered new bearings and seals since the old bearings were locked up. I thought I read they're slight interference fit so heating would be advantageous I would think, but beyond that what have others done to get them out?

1) You haven't downloaded the PDF parts books yet - it seems. That's also helpful.
2) Removing bearings is easy if you have a torch. If not you may have to make a puller.
3) Installing bearings on the crank is easy. You put the crank in the freezer or fridge overnight. Next day you heat the bearings with a propane torch and it will just fall on the crank. Don't take the crank out of the fridge until your bearing is warm. You could also just press them on if you have a small shop press.
The interference fit should not be that great actually (.001-.002). You should be able to smack them on with a pipe of correct size and length and a hammer (my last choice).
4) It appears we got a bunch of spammers on the site again. That's real frustrating.
CO

Sorry, should have been more specific, the way I got this thing, the crank was out of it, and the bearings and seals are stuck in the crankcase. I am not sure how to get the bearings and seals out of the case halves. The old seal is in the way of the bearing from the outside, and the bearing is in the way of the seal from the inside. I have a bearing splitter tool so if they were stuck on the shaft i could use that and it would be a non issue, but no such luck. When installing the new one would you recommend installing the bearing on the crank first then? Then just using the case bolts to squeeze the bearings into the case on reassembly or something? I do have a propane torch so it shouldn't be a problem to install on the shaft as you detail. Also i did download the parts book already from another post on here. It is an amazing resource.

I don't own an FL250 but most seals are installed from the outside, therefore if you just take a screwdriver and a block of wood on the case, then the seal should just pop out.
As for the bearing in the housing, the bearing obviously would be installed from the inside. That means I would put the casing on a couple of 2x4 and heat up the case with the propane torch. Then take a piece of pipe or a punch and smack it out. The interference fit would be minimal. Maybe .001"-.002".
CO