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PostPosted: Tue Apr 09, 2013 9:32 pm 
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Joined: Sat Mar 03, 2012 11:45 pm
Posts: 3610
Location: CHICO,CA
Well I'm starting to work on my spare frame
Had no Engine when I bought it so will be putting in an rotax 537

Will be puting an seadoo singal intake on it

Will be converting the front to lt supencion

Here is some Picts of it


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 09, 2013 9:41 pm 
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Joined: Sat Mar 03, 2012 11:45 pm
Posts: 3610
Location: CHICO,CA
Well ran into an problem with the singal carb intake

Is there any other heads that will fit or can I just block off the one fitting ?
I can see that's its the thermostat can you run these engines with out the thermostat?
Also I let the rotary valve fall off of the shaft how do I regime the valve I can see a little line all the way across one side of the valve and indexes on the gear


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 09, 2013 9:53 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
B S wrote:
Well ran into an problem with the singal carb intake

Is there any other heads that will fit or can I just block off the one fitting ?
I can see that's its the thermostat can you run these engines with out the thermostat?
Also I let the rotary valve fall off of the shaft how do I regime the valve I can see a little line all the way across one side of the valve and indexes on the gear


I had the same problem you only need one line for the coolant so block the other off, remove the studs use bolts and make a plate and gasket.

Mine only had the single outlet so I had to fab my own special fitting technically a 90 degree elbow :-)

Image

Image

Image


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 09, 2013 10:25 pm 
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Joined: Sat Mar 03, 2012 11:45 pm
Posts: 3610
Location: CHICO,CA
Got that done
barely clears :-)
On to the frame

I'm going to be putting new seals in the Engine
Will this work?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/88-SKI-DOO-ROTA ... fresh=true


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 10, 2013 8:55 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:21 am
Posts: 2681
Location: NW Ohio / SE Michigan
On my '91 type 467 Rotax, the t-stat is actually under that top elbow. But the head is different that yours. I did have to relocate the temp sensor from the side to the top, though.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 11, 2013 12:51 am 
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Joined: Sat Mar 03, 2012 11:45 pm
Posts: 3610
Location: CHICO,CA
Well got somework done to fl537
Made an oil block off
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Got some work done to the frame got the under side done And got the bottom a arms mounted
Also found outwhy our other employee hates our welder


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 11, 2013 8:24 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:21 am
Posts: 2681
Location: NW Ohio / SE Michigan
Damn, you're flyin'! Come finish mine for me!!


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 11, 2013 10:10 am 
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Joined: Fri Feb 29, 2008 1:51 am
Posts: 2703
Location: Upland, Ca
You can slide the lower a-arm forward a few inches. What will your wheel base be with the lower arms where they are right now? My front tabs on the frame were on the bend of the subframe. Are you planning on running fenders?


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 11, 2013 12:42 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
B S wrote:
Got that done
barely clears :-)
On to the frame

I'm going to be putting new seals in the Engine
Will this work?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/88-SKI-DOO-ROTA ... fresh=true" ."..


What brand gasket kit?

I was told the winderosa brand after market gaskets and seals are ok on these engines don't know about any other brand.

Since the seals will be taking higher temps and more dirt and dust than when used in a sled I would use OEM seals cant cost that much more?


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 11, 2013 12:46 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
B S wrote:
Well got somework done to fl537
Made an oil block off
Attachment:
20130410_213445.jpg

Got some work done to the frame got the under side done And got the bottom a arms mounted
Also found outwhy our other employee hates our welder



Make sure to use loctite on the 4 bolts that hold the rotary valve cover to the Engine I have had them work loose a few times on my 440 until I used the loctite, think it was the vibration no doubt one way or another I changed the harmonics from what the sled it came from was producing lol :-)

Blue loctite works fine on mine..


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 11, 2013 1:46 pm 
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Joined: Sat Mar 03, 2012 11:45 pm
Posts: 3610
Location: CHICO,CA
shoubadaba wrote:
You can slide the lower a-arm forward a few inches. What will your wheel base be with the lower arms where they are right now? My front tabs on the frame were on the bend of the subframe. Are you planning on running fenders?

no fenders will probally plate the side of this fl350
what did you run for shocks?
wheel base about 59'' give or take an 1/4''

DMoneyAllstar wrote:
Damn, you're flyin'! Come finish mine for me!!

don't got nothing better to do at them monent
the guy at work helped me a bit lining up the bottom to make sure its square on both sides
hoser wrote:
What brand gasket kit?

I was told the winderosa brand after market gaskets and seals are ok on these engines don't know about any other brand.

Since the seals will be taking higher temps and more dirt and dust than when used in a sled I would use OEM seals cant cost that much more?

those were oem seales too late now :shock: :shock: :shock:


hoser wrote:
Make sure to use loctite on the 4 bolts that hold the rotary valve cover to the Engine I have had them work loose a few times on my 440 until I used the loctite, think it was the vibration no doubt one way or another I changed the harmonics from what the sled it came from was producing lol :-)

Blue loctite works fine on mine..

will do



any one else own an millermatic 212 welder? or an 350P?


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 11, 2013 2:46 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
B S wrote:
shoubadaba wrote:
You can slide the lower a-arm forward a few inches. What will your wheel base be with the lower arms where they are right now? My front tabs on the frame were on the bend of the subframe. Are you planning on running fenders?

no fenders will probally plate the side of this fl350
what did you run for shocks?
wheel base about 59'' give or take an 1/4''

DMoneyAllstar wrote:
Damn, you're flyin'! Come finish mine for me!!

don't got nothing better to do at them monent
the guy at work helped me a bit lining up the bottom to make sure its square on both sides
hoser wrote:
What brand gasket kit?

I was told the winderosa brand after market gaskets and seals are ok on these engines don't know about any other brand.

Since the seals will be taking higher temps and more dirt and dust than when used in a sled I would use OEM seals cant cost that much more?

those were oem seales too late now :shock: :shock: :shock:


hoser wrote:
Make sure to use loctite on the 4 bolts that hold the rotary valve cover to the Engine I have had them work loose a few times on my 440 until I used the loctite, think it was the vibration no doubt one way or another I changed the harmonics from what the sled it came from was producing lol :-)

Blue loctite works fine on mine..

will do



any one else own an millermatic 212 welder? or an 350P?


My son just bought a millermatic 252 but has not hooked it up yet.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:37 pm 
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Joined: Fri Feb 29, 2008 1:51 am
Posts: 2703
Location: Upland, Ca
I used suzuki LTR450 front shocks


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:42 pm 
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Joined: Sat Mar 03, 2012 11:45 pm
Posts: 3610
Location: CHICO,CA
hoser wrote:
My son just bought a millermatic 252 but has not hooked it up yet.


that's an good welder good for alumium

shoubadaba wrote:
I used suzuki LTR450 front shocks

thanks

what do they sell for ?
i can use those and trx 450 ones right?


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 11, 2013 9:50 pm 
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Joined: Fri Feb 29, 2008 1:51 am
Posts: 2703
Location: Upland, Ca
You can use any shock just about with those arms. Just make sure your upper arm clears the shock. I went with the ltr450 shocks because they were stiffer then the trx ones and have more adjustment.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 12, 2013 4:47 am 
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Joined: Sat Mar 03, 2012 11:45 pm
Posts: 3610
Location: CHICO,CA
shoubadaba wrote:
You can use any shock just about with those arms. Just make sure your upper arm clears the shock. I went with the ltr450 shocks because they were stiffer then the trx ones and have more adjustment.

ill go with what ever is cheaper in the long run
hoping my friend at the motorcycle shop can get some used ons for cheap


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:17 am 
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Joined: Sat Mar 03, 2012 11:45 pm
Posts: 3610
Location: CHICO,CA
Got some work done to the fl537

How's the a arms look ?

There's an 0-1.5 degree tilt in when the arm moves to full bump and full drop
Ride height is about .5 ° in

Does it look like I need to change any thing?
Just did the 1 side for now


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 12, 2013 9:11 am 
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Joined: Sun Dec 24, 2006 5:58 pm
Posts: 2319
Location: near NJ rider
Looks good.

I'm curious, why make the lower "support" frame hang so low? I've never done what your doing, but to me, I would make that distance just large enough to fit the steering through.

How is it on the pilot?

Will this make the front end sit really high?

Do you have machining capability?


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 12, 2013 10:30 am 
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Joined: Sat Mar 03, 2012 11:45 pm
Posts: 3610
Location: CHICO,CA
bullnerd wrote:
Looks good.

I'm curious, why make the lower "support" frame hang so low? I've never done what your doing, but to me, I would make that distance just large enough to fit the steering through.

How is it on the pilot?

Will this make the front end sit really high?

Do you have machining capability?

I had shoubadaba make me the bent tubes

We have an mill so yes I can mill stuff it's not the best but it's better than nothing


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 12, 2013 12:26 pm 
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Joined: Sun Dec 24, 2006 5:58 pm
Posts: 2319
Location: near NJ rider
shoubadaba has done this before so you should be good.

If I was doing it, I would copy this manual rack like setup. Someone here posted the pics but I don't know who. Then I would make just enough room to squeeze the it through the sub frame.The lower the better.

Heres a couple pics,pretty simple but you could get the bump steer perfect.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 12, 2013 12:46 pm 
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Joined: Sat Mar 03, 2012 11:45 pm
Posts: 3610
Location: CHICO,CA
bullnerd wrote:
shoubadaba has done this before so you should be good.

If I was doing it, I would copy this manual rack like setup. Someone here posted the pics but I don't know who. Then I would make just enough room to squeeze the it through the sub frame.The lower the better.

Heres a couple pics,pretty simple but you could get the bump steer perfect.

what did that come off of?
Image


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 12, 2013 1:27 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:21 am
Posts: 2681
Location: NW Ohio / SE Michigan
What about one of these from a Yerf Dog UTV? Price is cheap, so plenty of $ padding for some customizing.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yerf-Dog-New-Rack-n-Pinion-w-Tie-Rod-Ends-Go-Kart-Cart-/190711612683?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c674c450b


Pricier, but small...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Billet-Rack-n-Pinion-Steering-Box-Assembly-Micro-Sprint-TQ-Buggy-Karts-/330904679908?pt=Race_Car_Parts&hash=item4d0b74b5e4&vxp=mtr


Or something out of a Mule, Prowler, Ranger, Rhino, etc UTV.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2008-2009-YAMAHA-RHINO-700-STEERING-RACK-BOX-PINION-ASSEMBLY-BOLT-READY-NEW-/150915542150?rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222002%26algo%3DSIC.FIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D163%26meid%3D6916982847193661017%26pid%3D100005%26prg%3D1088%26rk%3D1%26sd%3D330904679908%26


http://www.ebay.com/itm/300cc-UTV-Steering-Assembly-/250654204574?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a5c27a29e&vxp=mtr


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 12, 2013 1:44 pm 
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Joined: Fri Feb 29, 2008 1:51 am
Posts: 2703
Location: Upland, Ca
Its only 3 inches between the lower main frame bar and the new one. It allows for the steering and the right stance for the odyssey when its done. The middle bar on the main chassis when finished will sit level with the ground giving the odyssey a nice look to it. You could make the space smaller just makes it tighter and skink bugs the rear like when its stock


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 12, 2013 4:58 pm 
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Joined: Sun Dec 24, 2006 5:58 pm
Posts: 2319
Location: near NJ rider
BS-that was custum made.Someone here owns it.

Shouba-sounds good,like I said just going by the pics,looks bigger.

Money-the problem with them is they are real racks, the pic I posted still gives go-kart steering.

Nevermind me -carry on.


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 13, 2013 4:54 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:21 am
Posts: 2681
Location: NW Ohio / SE Michigan
bullnerd wrote:
Money-the problem with them is they are real racks, the pic I posted still gives go-kart steering.



Ohhh...I had to look at it closer. That's not a rack, that's a slide, right?. If so, now I get it.


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