Starting this after a fellow PO.com member asked if I had any spares. And when I looked at the ones I had, they were hard as a rock. Replacements?

- Oddatv1 has aftermarket OE-equivalent ones on evilBay for $130.

- After$h0ck has aftermarket ones that use a standard two-bolt boot on a custom billet intake for $160.

Those prices gave me some seeeeerious sticker shock, especially since the ATC250R boots sell for $27 from the dealer and the CR500 boots were $40. I can't believe someone can't make them to sell for $45-$60 and still make a profit (?).

Anything else fit the FL350R??

ATC250R?
CR500?

I guess if you were a machinist and/or could tig weld, you could make your own version of the After$h0ck intake block. Something that would take a standard 34mm carb boot ($10-$20 on evilbay) from a sled or something? Searching for "34mm carb boot" there are a few 2-bolt boots that turn up under $20 shipped. And could even make blocks to accept / flow the 36mm and 38mm carbs, too.


Thanks,

Dan A.

Similar conversation going for the FL400 intake boot:

http://www.pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=13196&start=0

There is nothing else out there that I'm aware of.

Honda Elsinore CR250R intake manifolds will work with modifications. I'm not exactly sure of the years but I believe they are 1978 thru 1980. Same bolt pattern as the FL350 but the manifold is center mounted where as the FL350 is offset.

A couple of issues when using these.....

1.) The left front edge of the carb will hit the Engine to transmission mount so the mount will need to be modified.
2.) Due to the offset, the large elbow to the air box doesn't line op so an aftermarket intake is preferable.
3.) The Manifold is made for I believe a 36mm carb, not the 32mm stock Ody carb.

I have one of these for sale for 100 bucks shipped if someone wants it.

Rand

I was reading on the mossbargers site that reeds cage from the 88 CR250R part number 14100-KS7-831 is a good replacement for the fl350 reed cage so I am thinking maybe the boot will be similar with the correct angle for the carb. Go to a dealer and see if it's useable. It's worth a shot.
Don't buy the aftersucks unit. My brother bought one and it requires modifications. Don't bother total crap.

Think it might be discontinued but try anyways.
http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/honda/HP-14100-KS7-831.html

Other related threads...

http://www.pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=11013

1978-1980 Honda Elsinore CR250 boot: http://www.pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=12217

http://www.pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=13187

I have access to some air filter poly-urethanes and a cure oven. I know we've made some p/u for air filters that had a pretty decent durometer, too. Wonder if I could make a plaster cast of the inside and outside of the boot, clean 'em up, use the backplates off my old boots, and try to make some new ones?? This harder p/u doesn't need to be injected under much pressure either, and is hard enough that it could be cleaned up with a dremel or deburr tool. Hard, but pliable.

Hmmm...

Its worth a try, bonding to the metal might be a problem?

None of the stuff we have at work will be hard enough. Its mostly for lightweight flex-panel air filter p/u foam.

Something around a durometer of 70A would do. 80+ A might be too hard (like a dress shoe sole). A tire is 65-75A. Seem to be a lot of cast-able urethanes available online for like $90-$110 a gallon (1 gal of iso & 1 gal poly). Trial sizes which would be enough to prob do 3-4 boots are like $20-$25.

Aluminum needs to be sand blasted (roughed), degreased, dried, and then quickly bonded since aluminum will oxidize pretty quick.

Steel would need sand blasted, light ethcing in like a 10-20% acidic solution (i.e. Phosp. Acid) for a few minutes, dried, and bonded.


BUT...it seems like way too much work! Something existing, available, and cheaper has to exist for these boots.


Anyone know if the ATC250R boots fit? There are a ton of them on evilBay for $41.96 new. That's such a more realistic price for a carb boot.

What year ATC250R ?

Try contacting Boyeseen see if they have a RAD Valve that will fit I sent them a email got no reply, that don't mean my email was not kicked out by their systems spam filters...

Early/mid 80's...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-250R-R-ATC250R-ATC-INTAKE-CARB-BOOT-NEW-OEM-CARBURATOR-INSULATOR-CASES-/390557130043?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5aef04dd3b&vxp=mtr

It turns the other direction, but...flip it upside down and disregard the little alignment tabs.

Although these intakes have the same bolt pattern, these intakes don't work because they change the angle of the carburetor to where the air box will not line up. The Only factory manifold that will work is the 1979 to 1980 CR250 Elsinore manifold and even that takes a little modification of the transmission to Engine mount to get the carb to clear. The next issues is the carb intake hole size is larger than the stock 32mm Ody.

Rand

Everything comes down to the angle of the dangle, and, size. LOL!

Carb size...that's an easy fix: just get a bigger carb!

Size Matters! LOL

Another issue with using some of these aftermarket intake boots is the internal grooves that the carb locks into. The 38mm Mikuni I tried to use in the CR250 manifold would slide in but when you went to tighten the outer clamp to lock the carb in the boot, it would tend to force the carb out of the boot.

Rand

I been looking for used Boyesen Rad Valve at a reasonable price so I can modify it to fit the Pilot (cut and weld) but they are not easy to find.

any body try using this

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Banshee-Cheetah-DM-CR250-Billet-Intakes-V-Force-3-/250786419558?hash=item3a64091366&item=250786419558&pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr


SpeedChaser

Hey...at least that's 1/2 the price of AFSHK, lol. Wouldn't surprise me if that's where they're buying the ones they're selling for the FL350, as both outfits are only like 25-30 minutes apart.

I really like the ones that use that standard 2-bolt boot. Makes sense.

Talking with one of my co-workers...we looked into it a little more, and using some time of urethane simply wouldn't last. Nitrile is what you want (and maybe silicone). Its the choice gasket/boot material of the automotive world with great temperature, durability and chem resistance properties. But, it has to be injection molded.

Good call that's right the CPI cylinders use the Honda intake design.

What about you making some that have the proper offset and angle, I can send you a stock Pilot manifold I assume you already have a FL350 manifold and you make up a batch?

Remember guys always ensure you buy the genuine Mikuni manifolds if your using a setup like this, that set on ebay comes with the m-vm36-200k guy claims they fit Fits 36 to 41 mm carburetor

http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B000GZO4V0/ref=dp_olp_new?ie=UTF8&condition=new

If you make some speed, I would be good for 2 of them!

Rand

Put me down for two Pilot manifolds.

Anybody that owns a Pilot or Odyssey should consider replacing these the stock manifolds are getting rock hard their life is almost over.

When the rubber gets hard it transmits vibration from the Engine and can make the gas/oil in the carb froth up or foam then your Engine can suck air creating a lean condition

Not to mention that every single FL350 manifold that I have come across it cracked, torn, rock hard or in the process of splitting. Also if you have to re-jet due to variances in altitude, every time you pull the carb in and out of the boot will further the tearing of the boot.

Rand

I need one for sure I'm the one that got d$'s wheels spinning mine is cracked and tried using weather strip adhesive but it turns hard and cracks again, so put me down for one if a have to change the stock carb so be it plus it let's me talk the old lady in buying me more parts :)

I picked up a carb boot from the ATV250R 83-84 and...

1. The bolt pattern matches up perfectly.

2. The angle of the dangle doe not. I was hoping I could just flip it over and have it point the right direction, but it will also point up instead of down like it needs to be. Only way to make this work is if you were using a modified intake tube (the one from the airbox to the carb), or if you were using one of those are intake tubes (no airbox).

I never tried yet but what about this guy ???

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/HONDA-FL350-ODYS ... 565eb488e6

Sorry don't know how to add the link the easy way.

Damn it worked. LOL