I forget where the post was we were talking about regulators but DC sent me a regulator off a Harley ?? to try on my Pilot, whilst at Glamis I installed one and it worked perfectly, thanks DC!!!

The hookup was simple, the unit has 3 wires 2 are on a plug which I cut off these go to the 2 yellow wires that were for the lights on the sled, they put out a/c voltage from about 11 to 20 volts depending on the RPM's the other wire you hook to the the battery + then the case grounds to the frame which is grounded to the battery negative anyways.

that's a sweet setup.
Didi it include the heat sink and all?

How tight is it for the weather tightness?

Yup, I will take detail pics of the unit itself and post, the back side they potted the board in epoxy like other regulator / rectifiers the chrome I assume is because its for a street bike application.

Good to hear the regulators worked out for you. They should work for the Pilot, 350 or any other enginge with a permenant magnet type charging system and a 2 phase stator. Max amp capability about 35 amps so if anyone has their stator beefed up to handle more lighting or whatever these would work perfectly.

The unit has a built in regulator so when you are at hi revs and the stator output climbs up to high (above 14.7 volts) the regulator switches the output off so you don't burn up a battery.

They are fully encapsulated in epoxy so no issue with being outside..

Thanks again DC.


Here are some pictures of the unit before installation.

I am no expert but these wont work on a stock Pilot or FL350 system but would work on the FL250's if they wanted to add lights, battery and electric start?

Ouch! on the hole in the fender. For some reason I thought the stator was a 3- phase confiqurition. Did you use two of the three phases on the input side to the regulator? If so would this cause an unbalanced load on the stator coils reducing the output on the stator? Using two of the leads I think would cause a primary phase inbalance on one phase due to the change of resistance on the two coils ran in series by not useing the third output phase. If so Could this change to voltage input to the CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) ? What is the a/c voltage out put on the two leads? What is the resistance values between the two leads usesd, This might ansawer the question, and I could just be all wet. If so sorry and thanks for correcting me.

I would have to dig up the manuals but the stock Pilot charging system is 3 phase and wont work with this regulator setup, the 440 Rotax I am using is single phase, its just a coil with 2 wires, I don't remember the exact primary voltage, a cool thing about the Rotax Engine I am using is it has 2 seperate ignitions systems one for each cylinder, each cylinder has its own, charge coil, trigger coil, ignition coil and CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition), you can adjust the timing different for each cylinder, it only has one lighting coil.

Forgot...

I am only using this regulator rectifier on my Pilot because of the Engine swap, I post the details to help others that might be doing a Engine swap and will need charging for a battery, the Engine I am using was out of a sled and all it used power for was hand warmers and lights so it was just regulated a/c voltage.

Here is a wiring diagram for the Engine I used.
Notice this Engine has a separate CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) and separate coil for each cylinder they don't use the same CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) for both cylinders.

Sorry about that. Thank for the slap on the back of my head. By the way how did the hole get in you fender, big rock or what. On the subject of motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) swap. I have been looking at a articat with a 800cc fuel injected. I can get the sled for $3,600.00. Iam looking into the clutch it uses know to see the compatability to the stock pilot as related to run out and final drive ratio. The motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) will pull more rpm which will help with top speed if I can get the clutch to run out. I located a frame and have the rest of the parts needed with the exception of a new trans. If I can not find one, I was going to go down to LS in march with the dakarts that are going to be there and take a look at there trans, maybe swap to dakart for the build. If you know if there a place to buy a dakart trans or info good and bad on them please let me know. How does you 440 compare to 400 in the pilot?

I thought the Pilot had a 2 phase stator, but I just checked the wiring diagram and it is 3 phase so this regulator would not work on a pilot. Some late model Harley's do use a 3 phase stator and the regulators are readily available on ebay for $10 to $50 in case anyone is in need. All of the oval shaped Harley regs are 3 phase and capable of about 55 amps.

Hi DC. I did some math onusing a 2-phase on the pilot. I believe it could work if the right leads were used in order not undervoltage the CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) by 4.5 volts and the power output looks like it would drop from 200 watts to 115 watts . It looked like it would over load one of the coils due to the other two in series and would not balance when CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) was firing. If two were used I would pick Y-1 which shares the CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) input and Y-2 or Y-3.Sounds like you the man onthese stator retro fits. Thanks for the info. It may even help with some of the old odysses that are 6v reto fitting to 12vand changing to elect. start.

Maybe the DC regulator will work on the rhino?

http://www.magicracing.com/SRP-Voltage- ... 3732.html#