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PostPosted: Thu Aug 16, 2007 9:25 pm 
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Posts: 22516
Location: Chicago
More damage


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 16, 2007 9:26 pm 
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Location: Chicago
Every hole egged or damaged one way or another.

More pics tomorrow.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 17, 2007 9:16 am 
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Location: Chicago
Parts list of things needed to repair this Engine, I still need to closely evaluate both cranks and all 3 cases, they are all severely damaged.

I am pulling the parts off the http://www.servicehonda.com/hard%20part ... s_old.html site

The stator and flywheel is trashed needs replaced.
31120-HE0-013 STATOR $170.48
31110-HE0-003 FLYWHEEL $ 240.7
90309-375-003 NUT, FLANGE (12MM) $4.43 (nut for flywheel)
Look at the Alternator page that's where I got the parts above, look at item #4 its a assembly I wonder if it includes the stator and flywheel if so its cheaper 31100-HE0-013 ALTERNATOR ASSY. $ 270.27

The cylinder is scared up and needs bored but even if it was not scared up its current piston to cylinder clearance is .010 .005 too much, double what it should be, but the cylinder is on its last over bore so either has to be sleeved or replaced,
I am pretty sure the head is salvageable I wont be 100% sure until I machine it..

Cylinder (either new, used or old one sleeved)
Need two cylinder dowels.
Piston
Rings
Wrist pin
Wrist pin bearing
Two Circlips

Right now I am unsure if either one of the cranks can be reused maybe a wear sleeve can be installed on the second one, personally I would not try it going by memory both them cranks had issues with them out of the box when ludedude got them back from the PCP rebuilding. I will look closer at them both and consult a few friends on them and get their thoughts on reusing them.

With the crank you will need the following
91201-402-015 Oil Seal
91203-HE0-003 Oil Seal
91204-HE0-003 Oil Seal
91032-HE0-005 Bearing, Radial Ball
91033-HE0-005 Bearing, Radial Ball
90701-HE0-000 Pin, Dowel (((TWO REQUIRED)))




You need the balancer and balancer gear
13355-HE0-000 Gear, Balancer Drive (43T)
13350-HE0-000 Weight, Balancer (43T)
90232-HE0-000 Nut, Lock ((this is the nut that ludedude beat on with a chisel ))
91002-HE0-004 Bearing, Radial Ball (((This is the bearing for the other end of the balancer)))


You might consider replacing the water pump seal when replacing the oil seal and the water pump bearing.
19217-PA5-003 Seal, Mechanical (water pump seal, the coolant side)

You have to replace these they are the bearing and seal for the water pump they run in the oil all the metal fragments were in.

91001-KA4-003 Bearing, Radial Ball
91201-148-003 Oil Seal

Gasket set (I don't have the number handy but have it in the shop)


I will clean up the cases and take a closer look at them to make sure they are usable.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 17, 2007 10:26 am 
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Location: Chicago
I post the below here too http://pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewtopic.php?t=3115
I hope it helps put an end to the WRONG piston to cylinder clearance issues, this is a reoccurring problem, even though it clearly states in ALL the service manuals how to check piston and cylinder clearances people keep getting it WRONG.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Here is a perfect example as to why I started this thread.

Here is the cylinder ludedude sold afastcar through his http://p-o-ps.com/pops/portal.php web site and ebay account, BUYER BEWARE of this guy below is why, the cylinder is on its last bore, he knew this he installed the LAST OVER BORE Wiseco piston into this cylinder and DIDNT TELL ANYBODY IN THE AUCTION.


All Ludedude of http://p-o-ps.com/pops/portal.php had to do is this simple test if he did NOT have the proper measuring tools.

In the pictures I have TWO .005 feeler gauges one on each side of the piston between the piston and cylinder wall.

IF the piston to cylinder clearance was CLOSE to being right those would be .0025 feeler gauges NOT .005

Piston to cylinder clearance is defined as the DIFFERENCE between the SMALLEST INSIDE DIAMETER found in the cylinder and the LARGEST OUTSIDE DIAMETER found on the piston.

You would think even if Ludedude of http://p-o-ps.com/pops/portal.php was DUMB AS A ROCK he would consult one of his "Tech Advisor - Guru's" and they would help the guy out.

IMO the .010 clearance was intentional Ludedude of http://p-o-ps.com/pops/portal.php had been SCHOOLED on piston to cylinder clearance and Wiseco pistons the first few weeks he joined my message board. IE he knew he was selling JUNK to someone on ebay when he listed it.

BUYER BEWARE of this MUTT!!!!




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PostPosted: Fri Aug 17, 2007 10:28 am 
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Location: Chicago
005 on the exhaust side.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 17, 2007 10:29 am 
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Location: Chicago
.005 on the intake side.


in case you cant add .005 PLUS .005 = .010

I hope everybody understand this and will perform this SIMPLE FAST test on their cylinder BEFORE they assemble their Engine.

IF you don't feel comfortable measuring your own parts PLEASE feel FREE to send them to me I will do it for you for FREE you just pay shipping both ways.



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PostPosted: Fri Aug 17, 2007 12:55 pm 
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I put a light hone on the cylinder so you could see better the damage to the bore.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 17, 2007 12:57 pm 
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I doubt the groove in this pic could be removed by going to a 82.5mm piston if wiseco did make them I bet it would have to be 83mm to clean it up.

All in "20 hrs use"


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 17, 2007 12:59 pm 
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Location: Chicago
I can tell by looking the squish clearance is way off on this head but I have seen dozens of different heads over the years and have an eye for that kind of a thing, if your ever in doubt you can simply use a feeler gauge to see what it is, I strongly suggest checking the squish with solder through the spark plug hole.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 17, 2007 1:12 pm 
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Location: Chicago
Back to the crankshaft....


Its not unusual for the bearing or bearings to get stuck on the crank, sometimes you can use a clam shell puller and pull them more often than not you have to grind them off, I have ground off many its a pain in the ass, as you seen in the other pics the crank was damaged by grinding you can avoid this by protecting it.


SO hoser tip #? sorry I lost count....

Protection is fast dirty and simple, I just cut a notch in metal then tap tap tap it down behind the bearing, then cut another piece of metal and wrap it around the end of the crank so that surface is protected.


No matter how good you are with a grinder you always seem to bounce off the bearing while grinding now when you bounce off the parts your trying to SAVE the sacrificial metal I installed will be damaged not the crank.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 17, 2007 1:20 pm 
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I removed the one and only dowel pin that was in the crank case, I see why its bent, its the WRONG dowel pin.

Hole is buggered up the threads are buggered up I will have to chase them with a tap to see if they are still good.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 17, 2007 10:06 pm 
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The red arrow is pointing to the correct length dowel the blue is pointing to the installed dowel.

In the box is my spare dowels I spent about 35 bux on them to ensure I had plenty of spares.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 17, 2007 10:14 pm 
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After washing up the cases I put them on the lapping plate to see how flat they are the clutch side case is not even close.

Look close you can see the lapping compound that is gray in color and the bright aluminum case where their is no lapping compound, the red arrows are pointing to the lapping compound the blue arrows are pointing towards the bare aluminum where the case didnt touch the lapping plate, the cases are way out.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 17, 2007 10:16 pm 
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The gasket surface on the other case is not bad at all see the even color.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 17, 2007 10:19 pm 
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Some of the metal from the gears got between the balancer bearing and the case, their is quite a bit of wear, I installed a used but good balancer bearing into the bearing pocket you can feel slight movement from side to side, this is NOT good because if the force of my fingers an move it I wonder what the force of the balancer turning 8000k rpm will do?


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 17, 2007 10:20 pm 
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More close ups


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 17, 2007 10:22 pm 
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The rest of the inside of the cases all beat up, they will need to be smoothed out and all the sharp edges knocked down.

It hard to believe you could not hear all this noise going on or feel the extra vibration.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 17, 2007 11:11 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5257
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
There seems to be a few people in this business, who for some reason can't afford thier Pilot/odyssey addiction so they pawn off this trash on newbies for A PROFIT!!!. I met Someone today in Michigan that had a very similar story from an Engine he bought from Jeff, or atvnut... Similar stories were swaped about Steve at afterthought motorspurts.... I actually met Bugpac's brother-in-law... Carl, Real nice guy! He had to ask his wife what Leonard's "chat" name was...LOL

If I had obvious junk like this I wouldn't even give it away... Just wouldn't seem right to wish this crap on someone else... And you wonder why they are not selling as much stuff as legit business's ie http://www.atvracing.com or http://www.odysseysalvage.com

IGSBAFTRSHKMS
I got screwed by aft e r shock motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) sports


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 18, 2007 1:48 am 
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Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
This was on the crybaby board...

Not that I'm taking sides But.....That is a buyer beware description if ever I have heard it. I wouldn't pay that much for something that had had a catastrophic failure....If somebody bought it thinking it was a one item fix well they got what they deserve.....Allen Rhein

Why is it when someone new to these old Engine's is blamed because we haven't the expertise that the idiot's out there selling this crap have??? Allen I can't post on the crybaby board, but... You should apologize for such a crass remark, instead of kissing Ass to these yahoo's selling crap like that... We were not all born with your infinate wisdom... People like that really piss me off...


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 18, 2007 4:22 am 
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Location: Chandler, AZ
I in no way thought I was getting a running Engine or a one fix item, I planned on having to fix the stator problem and every thing that went with it, plus new bearings, seals,piston,bore,head rechamber, and everything else that goes with a complete rebuild...

Not a bent crankshaft that was installed with a hammer and chisel, cylinder that was on its last bore and .10 over, cases with missing and wrong dowel pins so all the mounting holes are oblonged," this was all known when the Engine went together not after the problem occurred".

I was looking for a "base" to build from not a running Engine, so why doesn't everyone put all their junk together say running when shut off would not restart upon checking per manual the stator failed, and when your customer receives a pile of junk just state sold as is sorry....... great business plan...........

well according to some its my fault for buying a Engine that had a problem, well last time I checked they don't make them anymore and I thought they where rebuildable......... so I didn't realize I was to blame and got what I deserved, well IM glad I got to donate to a fellow Pilot owner because when it comes down to it that's what happened..............


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 18, 2007 10:17 am 
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Location: Chicago
afastcar wrote:
I in no way thought I was getting a running Engine or a one fix item, I planned on having to fix the stator problem and every thing that went with it, plus new bearings, seals,piston,bore,head rechamber, and everything else that goes with a complete rebuild...

Not a bent crankshaft that was installed with a hammer and chisel, cylinder that was on its last bore and .10 over, cases with missing and wrong dowel pins so all the mounting holes are oblonged," this was all known when the Engine went together not after the problem occurred".

I was looking for a "base" to build from not a running Engine, so why doesn't everyone put all their junk together say running when shut off would not restart upon checking per manual the stator failed, and when your customer receives a pile of junk just state sold as is sorry....... great business plan...........

well according to some its my fault for buying a Engine that had a problem, well last time I checked they don't make them anymore and I thought they where rebuildable......... so I didn't realize I was to blame and got what I deserved, well IM glad I got to donate to a fellow Pilot owner because when it comes down to it that's what happened..............


I think after looking at the pictures and the attached data its real clear what the real deal is, long ago Ludedude made it real clear the only way he could afford this sport was by selling stuff to us, he is like the other darkside mutts, they know how easy it is to prey on people mostly the new guys, how easy it is to get them to buy junk and to buy stuff they don't need so they take advantage of this, their is no playing innocent here and no use trying to claim "I didnt know" or "I thought" he knew their was a problem with BOTH CRANKS shortly after he got them back from PCP racing I STRONGLY suggested he return them both he didnt want to because he didnt want to wait another month and have to deal with customs, he took one of these crankshafts into work and "pressed it" himself this is all well documented on my old message board.


He knew without a doubt the cylinder he installed was in its last bore and junk, their is a thread on his message board right now where he tried to give the cylinder away, I guess he rather sell it to you ....

Next I am sure Ludedude and his posse will start the spin machine and blame afastcar for not realizing ludedude was selling 100% worthless junk, it will become afastcar's fault for this whole thing he should have known Ludedude was a liar and a thief, they will say things like "others bid on the auction" and give the eBay feedback excuse like this makes everything ok .... you know once you give a feedback its etched in stone and you have to stick to the feedback you gave BEFORE you discovered you were screwed by ludedude people use these excuses because they are grasping at any LITTLE thing they can trying to save face, well your seeing the real me, the real afastcar and the real ludedude! afastcar might have looked like just a name when you STOLD his money but he is a real person who was looking for a Engine that could be rebuilt and used not a pile of your scrap JUNK you stuck together to dump on ebay.

Afastcar you did NOTHING WRONG don't let the darkside mutts beat you down or talk you into thinking you did, you in good faith sent him your hard earned money thinking you were buying something usable, all his did was pass on his BAD decisions, failures, stupidity to you, he is making you PAY FOR HIS MISTAKES, most MEN stand up and admit they failed or made a mistake they don't ask others to pay for their ignorance.

He has a "donations" button on his web page I guess you donated or funded his next whim!

Their is much more that needs said here but I am pretty sure everybody knows by now ludedude is nothing more than a liar and common theif regardless what kind of image he has created on his web page and message board deep down what you see here is what he really is.

.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 19, 2007 9:35 am 
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Location: Chicago
Someone sent me comments from another site that state afastcar should be happy because he has good crank cases and a good cylinder, the cylinder will have to be replaced or a sleeve installed before it can be used the cases IMO are junk if someone wants to try them to prove me wrong send me your address I will ship them right out, so to say afastcar should be happy is just plain stupid, anybody that has read this and can say afastcar should be happy needs to send afastcar money!


Lets face it ludedude of http://p-o-ps.com/pops/portal.php knew EXACTLY what he was doing when he listed this on ebay if you think any different your just as dumb as the guy that thinks afastcar should be happy.

What your seeing here is the REAL Ludedude this was no mistake.


Part of Ludedudes SCAM was identified DURING the auction, below is a snip from that thread located here http://pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewtopic.php?t=2832



Ebay has made changes to the way they show who the bidders are. Unless you are a bidder in the auction or you are the seller you cant see the name of the bidder. They only list bidder 1 , 2, 3 and so on. They say this is an attempt to eliminate people from contacting losing bidders after the auction ends and offering them bogus product outside of ebay.

In the radiator auction, bidder 5 has been registered on ebay for over 5 years, has a feed back of Zero, meaning he has never sold/bought anything and been given feed back buy the buyer/seller. He has bid on 9 items total in the 5 years with ebay (6 of them in the last 30 days) and here is the best part 100% of his bids in the past 5 years are all to the same seller's auctions..... 45th Parallel…coincidence? Probably not



Ludedude or some of his henchmen were running the bid up for him its too bad afastcar was not aware of this and our thoughts on the Engine before he paid for it.


I pointed out to everybody exactly what these guys were all about I guess enough people have not read about them, I am a firm believer that silence is consent if you want liars and thieves then by all means support and comfort them, and don't say anyhting, if you want to remove them you better start speaking out..

http://pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewtopic.php?t=1447
http://pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewtopic.php?t=1451


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 19, 2007 4:03 pm 
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Posts: 5559
Location: New Jersey
As Hoser stated earlier in the posting-Lude is blaming it seems to me Hoser for all the troubles with the sale of the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )).WHAH WHAH WHAH-BAND OF ASSHOLES-lol YOUR THE ASSHOLE BUDDY-not me-lmao!!!!
I was emailed his reply on Hosers old board-it is a freshing posting, BYE BYE-so long.You have said before your gone, but your back as usual, hope this time it sticks, mabye the darkside will ban you for good too, those guys are known to strike down a fellow member when he is down, this is no exception I bet.
ATVNUT SAYS THANKS AS WELL, he can sell his crapola now without any competition I betya!!!!
You got fronted again on issues, you did the right thing by giving the guy his money back, but it still doesnt make the whole auction sale right-you got caught in the candy jar -making excuses isnt going to help you this time, the spin of blaming Hoser will fall on deaf ears-the communtiy knows and heard your cries of Hoser for some time and they seem to have left you for dead-some friends huh?
the HOSERites have done no wrong, you did,!!! man up and take the beating -you can do no wrong by leaving this group, you have nothing for them and are dragging down there money making "kits", etc.They arent going to stand up for you, as they shouldn't you got busted Brian, let it be and enjoy life without the Pilot odyssey community.You will be doing us all a favor by going elsewhere-


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 19, 2007 11:01 pm 
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Joined: Sun Dec 28, 2003 10:38 pm
Posts: 228
Location: Knoxville, TN
Guess its ok to screw the pilot odyssey community if you are hoser's buddy though.

http://www.pilotodyssey.com/8525687400 ... enDocument

I'd like to know where you were when this went down.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 19, 2007 11:13 pm 
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Posts: 22516
Location: Chicago
PilotHawK wrote:
Guess its ok to screw the pilot odyssey community if you are hoser's buddy though.

http://www.pilotodyssey.com/8525687400 ... sponses=18

I'd like to know where you were when this went down.


I really don't understand your post or its relevance can you be more specific.


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