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PostPosted: Mon Oct 13, 2014 8:59 pm 
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Joined: Thu Apr 22, 2010 11:38 pm
Posts: 1785
Location: New Mexico
Last time out I had the right rear inner CV boot fail. Against everyone's advice, I have neglected to ever remove the stubs until now & man am I sorry. The right side was a bi*ch to get out, & there is some wear on the splines of the stub and I am sure some in the trans. :( I have it tipped up on its side right now soaking the left side while I wait on the new boots to arrive, like a dumb @ss I only ordered inner boots so I have re ordered a pair of outers so I can just change them all & be done with it..


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File comment: Made a dam as Hoser has shown to hold the penetrating oil
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File comment: Removed & cleaned the cv
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File comment: Crusty...
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 14, 2014 12:30 am 
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Joined: Mon Jun 10, 2013 8:59 am
Posts: 793
rarerat wrote:
Last time out I had the right rear inner CV boot fail. Against everyone's advice, I have neglected to ever remove the stubs until now & man am I sorry. The right side was a bi*ch to get out, & there is some wear on the splines of the stub and I am sure some in the trans. :( I have it tipped up on its side right now soaking the left side while I wait on the new boots to arrive, like a dumb @ss I only ordered inner boots so I have re ordered a pair of outers so I can just change them all & be done with it..



With as hard of terrain you all ride out there, I am surprised it's not worse!
Darn Crusty Critters!


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 14, 2014 7:30 am 
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Joined: Mon Jun 10, 2013 8:59 am
Posts: 793
CV axles freshly cleaned, new boots & grease, and new snap rings:)
These bad boys went into the rarerat rod!

FYI - if you can get the boot straps that require a seperate tool, they are much better than the ones that do not. Just my opinion:)


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image.jpg
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 14, 2014 9:46 am 
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Joined: Thu Apr 22, 2010 11:38 pm
Posts: 1785
Location: New Mexico
Pilot bird wrote:
CV axles freshly cleaned, new boots & grease, and new snap rings:)
These bad boys went into the rarerat rod!

FYI - if you can get the boot straps that require a seperate tool, they are much better than the ones that do not. Just my opinion:)


Thanks, are the clamps in your picture the clamps that need the tool to install them? if so where did you get your clamp tool?


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 14, 2014 9:55 am 
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Joined: Mon Jun 10, 2013 8:59 am
Posts: 793
rarerat wrote:
Pilot bird wrote:
CV axles freshly cleaned, new boots & grease, and new snap rings:)
These bad boys went into the rarerat rod!

FYI - if you can get the boot straps that require a seperate tool, they are much better than the ones that do not. Just my opinion:)


Thanks, are the clamps in your picture the clamps that need the tool to install them? if so where did you get your clamp tool?



Unfortunately not!
These are the cheap ones that you just crimp. It should be the same style you have on the boot that tore.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 14, 2014 10:14 am 
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Joined: Thu Apr 22, 2010 11:38 pm
Posts: 1785
Location: New Mexico
Ok, I think the clamps that came with the inner boots look similar too the originals. I wont get the otters until Friday but I ordered from the same place so I assume the clamp will be the same.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/4614990897?_trk ... EBIDX%3AIT

Any idea who sells the clamp tool?


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 14, 2014 10:28 am 
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Joined: Thu Jun 16, 2005 7:19 pm
Posts: 2245
Location: Chandler, AZ
If you have one stub out wouldn't it be better to flip the tranny over and fill the splines up with penetrating oil from that side? The drive spline shaft is hollow. Did you try a brass or soft punch that will reach all the way through the drive spline shaft and try to knock out the stuck axle?


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 14, 2014 12:20 pm 
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Joined: Thu Apr 22, 2010 11:38 pm
Posts: 1785
Location: New Mexico
afastcar wrote:
If you have one stub out wouldn't it be better to flip the tranny over and fill the splines up with penetrating oil from that side? The drive spline shaft is hollow. Did you try a brass or soft punch that will reach all the way through the drive spline shaft and try to knock out the stuck axle?



Thanks. Yes sir, I have the Pilot propped up on its side now & the trans splines are filled with WD40. :-)


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 14, 2014 2:59 pm 
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Joined: Thu Apr 22, 2010 11:38 pm
Posts: 1785
Location: New Mexico
Found a clamp tool..
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271592241048?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 14, 2014 4:50 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 10, 2013 8:59 am
Posts: 793
rarerat wrote:



That's what I'm talking about!
Looks good, think I might order one myself:)


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 14, 2014 8:29 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 08, 2007 12:39 am
Posts: 3294
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
I like that banding tool, I just replaced my inner boot and had it leak later , had to "crimp" the band and hoping it seals on next trip.

I posted a pic of that clamping tool that was in the above Ebay ad for future reference


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 14, 2014 10:43 pm 
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Joined: Thu Apr 22, 2010 11:38 pm
Posts: 1785
Location: New Mexico
The driven clutch shaft has some play in it and I'm not sure if it's a bearing or a problem with the case? :-( I put a new seal in it when I did the Engine swap last month and it almost looked like the bearing might be moving in the case?? But the shaft spins free and you cant feel anything out of the ordinary other the side to side movement. So looks like "Plan B" I was just going to service the axles & change the boots but I have a spare trans and since it was already half apart, I guess now is a good time to swap it out before I hurt the original trans. I got the Engine & spare trans installed and then quit for the evening. Should be able to wrap up the rest tomorrow except for the axles since I am still waiting on the outer boots.


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File comment: Pulled the Engine & trans
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File comment: Engine & the spare trans back in
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 15, 2014 3:26 am 
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Joined: Mon Jun 10, 2013 8:59 am
Posts: 793
rarerat wrote:
The driven clutch shaft has some play in it and I'm not sure if it's a bearing or a problem with the case? :-( I put a new seal in it when I did the Engine swap last month and it almost looked like the bearing might be moving in the case?? But the shaft spins free and you cant feel anything out of the ordinary other the side to side movement. So looks like "Plan B" I was just going to service the axles & change the boots but I have a spare trans and since it was already half apart, I guess now is a good time to swap it out before I hurt the original trans. I got the Engine & spare trans installed and then quit for the evening. Should be able to wrap up the rest tomorrow except for the axles since I am still waiting on the outer boots.



I notice you have a dayco belt, how do you like it?

This may seem like a dumb question, but there is a ground wire from the frame by the CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) that goes to the head. What purpose does that serve, isn't the Engine already grounded to the frame near the fuse box? All pilots have them, just not sure why it's there or needed? Any thoughts?


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 15, 2014 8:22 am 
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Joined: Thu Apr 22, 2010 11:38 pm
Posts: 1785
Location: New Mexico
Pilot bird wrote:
rarerat wrote:
The driven clutch shaft has some play in it and I'm not sure if it's a bearing or a problem with the case? :-( I put a new seal in it when I did the Engine swap last month and it almost looked like the bearing might be moving in the case?? But the shaft spins free and you cant feel anything out of the ordinary other the side to side movement. So looks like "Plan B" I was just going to service the axles & change the boots but I have a spare trans and since it was already half apart, I guess now is a good time to swap it out before I hurt the original trans. I got the Engine & spare trans installed and then quit for the evening. Should be able to wrap up the rest tomorrow except for the axles since I am still waiting on the outer boots.



I notice you have a dayco belt, how do you like it?

This may seem like a dumb question, but there is a ground wire from the frame by the CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) that goes to the head. What purpose does that serve, isn't the Engine already grounded to the frame near the fuse box? All pilots have them, just not sure why it's there or needed? Any thoughts?



I have had good luck with the Dayco belt, it's held up really well & I would buy another. When I bought my Pilot it came with two new Honda belts and IMO they didn't wear as well as this Dayco is. :-)

Not really sure on why the extra ground strap, maybe just a back up??


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 15, 2014 7:50 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 08, 2007 12:39 am
Posts: 3294
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
rarerat wrote:
Pilot bird wrote:
rarerat wrote:
The driven clutch shaft has some play in it and I'm not sure if it's a bearing or a problem with the case? :-( I put a new seal in it when I did the Engine swap last month and it almost looked like the bearing might be moving in the case?? But the shaft spins free and you cant feel anything out of the ordinary other the side to side movement. So looks like "Plan B" I was just going to service the axles & change the boots but I have a spare trans and since it was already half apart, I guess now is a good time to swap it out before I hurt the original trans. I got the Engine & spare trans installed and then quit for the evening. Should be able to wrap up the rest tomorrow except for the axles since I am still waiting on the outer boots.



I notice you have a dayco belt, how do you like it?

This may seem like a dumb question, but there is a ground wire from the frame by the CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) that goes to the head. What purpose does that serve, isn't the Engine already grounded to the frame near the fuse box? All pilots have them, just not sure why it's there or needed? Any thoughts?



I have had good luck with the Dayco belt, it's held up really well & I would buy another. When I bought my Pilot it came with two new Honda belts and IMO they didn't wear as well as this Dayco is. :-)

Not really sure on why the extra ground strap, maybe just a back up??


The strap is for grounding spark plug, better ground


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 15, 2014 9:43 pm 
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Joined: Thu Apr 22, 2010 11:38 pm
Posts: 1785
Location: New Mexico
stix wrote:
rarerat wrote:
Pilot bird wrote:
rarerat wrote:
The driven clutch shaft has some play in it and I'm not sure if it's a bearing or a problem with the case? :-( I put a new seal in it when I did the Engine swap last month and it almost looked like the bearing might be moving in the case?? But the shaft spins free and you cant feel anything out of the ordinary other the side to side movement. So looks like "Plan B" I was just going to service the axles & change the boots but I have a spare trans and since it was already half apart, I guess now is a good time to swap it out before I hurt the original trans. I got the Engine & spare trans installed and then quit for the evening. Should be able to wrap up the rest tomorrow except for the axles since I am still waiting on the outer boots.



I notice you have a dayco belt, how do you like it?

This may seem like a dumb question, but there is a ground wire from the frame by the CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) that goes to the head. What purpose does that serve, isn't the Engine already grounded to the frame near the fuse box? All pilots have them, just not sure why it's there or needed? Any thoughts?



I have had good luck with the Dayco belt, it's held up really well & I would buy another. When I bought my Pilot it came with two new Honda belts and IMO they didn't wear as well as this Dayco is. :-)

Not really sure on why the extra ground strap, maybe just a back up??


The strap is for grounding spark plug, better ground


Thank you sir.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 15, 2014 10:15 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 10, 2013 8:59 am
Posts: 793
stix wrote:
rarerat wrote:
Pilot bird wrote:
rarerat wrote:
The driven clutch shaft has some play in it and I'm not sure if it's a bearing or a problem with the case? :-( I put a new seal in it when I did the Engine swap last month and it almost looked like the bearing might be moving in the case?? But the shaft spins free and you cant feel anything out of the ordinary other the side to side movement. So looks like "Plan B" I was just going to service the axles & change the boots but I have a spare trans and since it was already half apart, I guess now is a good time to swap it out before I hurt the original trans. I got the Engine & spare trans installed and then quit for the evening. Should be able to wrap up the rest tomorrow except for the axles since I am still waiting on the outer boots.



I notice you have a dayco belt, how do you like it?

This may seem like a dumb question, but there is a ground wire from the frame by the CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) that goes to the head. What purpose does that serve, isn't the Engine already grounded to the frame near the fuse box? All pilots have them, just not sure why it's there or needed? Any thoughts?



I have had good luck with the Dayco belt, it's held up really well & I would buy another. When I bought my Pilot it came with two new Honda belts and IMO they didn't wear as well as this Dayco is. :-)

Not really sure on why the extra ground strap, maybe just a back up??


The strap is for grounding spark plug, better ground



Any down side if not used?


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 15, 2014 10:37 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 08, 2007 12:39 am
Posts: 3294
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
That question my friend is out of my league house. Have I run without, yes, did I notice a difference in performance, no. Am I an expert no, lol. The person you will want to ask is Adnoh. However I believe running without is affecting the timing.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2014 8:39 am 
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Joined: Mon Jun 10, 2013 8:59 am
Posts: 793
stix wrote:
That question my friend is out of my league house. Have I run without, yes, did I notice a difference in performance, no. Am I an expert no, lol. The person you will want to ask is Adnoh. However I believe running without is affecting the timing.


Stix, on the 500 cool head there isn't a place to ground the wire to the head like the 400 head. Are you currently running without it? Maybe I can get a longer ground and run it to the cylinder somewhere?
On the OEM 500 head I have the same problem and would attach it to the head gasket rivets. Always felt like it was jerry rigged and wanted to find a good/correct fix.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2014 10:07 am 
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Joined: Thu Jun 16, 2005 7:19 pm
Posts: 2245
Location: Chandler, AZ
All of us with the speedchaser head and or the 500 cool head run without that grounding strap with no problems. I have seen people put the grounding strap under a head bolt, I would not do that because you wouldn't get a true torque reading plus the metal on the end conector is soft and probably wouldn't hold proper torque.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2014 5:48 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 10, 2013 8:59 am
Posts: 793
afastcar wrote:
All of us with the speedchaser head and or the 500 cool head run without that grounding strap with no problems. I have seen people put the grounding strap under a head bolt, I would not do that because you wouldn't get a true torque reading plus the metal on the end conector is soft and probably wouldn't hold proper torque.



Thank you sir, that's good to know:)


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2014 9:03 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 08, 2007 12:39 am
Posts: 3294
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
Pilot bird wrote:
stix wrote:
That question my friend is out of my league house. Have I run without, yes, did I notice a difference in performance, no. Am I an expert no, lol. The person you will want to ask is Adnoh. However I believe running without is affecting the timing.


Stix, on the 500 cool head there isn't a place to ground the wire to the head like the 400 head. Are you currently running without it? Maybe I can get a longer ground and run it to the cylinder somewhere?
On the OEM 500 head I have the same problem and would attach it to the head gasket rivets. Always felt like it was jerry rigged and wanted to find a good/correct fix.


Yep unfortunately no theres no place to ground on the Pro D Cool Head.

I cut off the stock ring terminal and soldered a larger diameter ring terminal then grounded to a head bolt. Looks clean and not juryrigged and havnt had any head leaks. The closer the ground to the spark plug the better, like I said Adnoh can explain the math as to why its important (or not) to keep that strap.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 21, 2014 6:19 pm 
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Joined: Thu Apr 22, 2010 11:38 pm
Posts: 1785
Location: New Mexico
My outer boots or should I say one outer boot was delivered late friday afternoon. They mistaking sent me an inner & an outer instead of two outers. I contacted them and they are supposed to be sending me another outer, but i just went ahead and serviced the axles with new inner boots and I cleaned up my original outers as they look to be in good condition. I got the ebay clamp tool last night and it works great, so I finished it up today. :-)

I also added some used works shocks that I painted up a bit to make them look a little better, They seem a bit stiff, can I move the pre load ring up a notch and will that soften them or is the spring rate the only way to soften them up?


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 21, 2014 7:52 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 10, 2013 8:59 am
Posts: 793
rarerat wrote:
My outer boots or should I say one outer boot was delivered late friday afternoon. They mistaking sent me an inner & an outer instead of two outers. I contacted them and they are supposed to be sending me another outer, but i just went ahead and serviced the axles with new inner boots and I cleaned up my original outers as they look to be in good condition. I got the ebay clamp tool last night and it works great, so I finished it up today. :-)

I also added some used works shocks that I painted up a bit to make them look a little better, They seem a bit stiff, can I move the pre load ring up a notch and will that soften them or is the spring rate the only way to soften them up?



Nick, won't you have to take the inner boot off to get the outter boot replaced? Just a thought.

I believe the spring will adjust the stance of the pilot. I will say the works shocks I have are stiff when you push down on the front or rear compared to the stock, but they ride much better:)
Did you test them out since she is all back together?


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 21, 2014 7:54 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 10, 2013 8:59 am
Posts: 793
rarerat wrote:
My outer boots or should I say one outer boot was delivered late friday afternoon. They mistaking sent me an inner & an outer instead of two outers. I contacted them and they are supposed to be sending me another outer, but i just went ahead and serviced the axles with new inner boots and I cleaned up my original outers as they look to be in good condition. I got the ebay clamp tool last night and it works great, so I finished it up today. :-)

I also added some used works shocks that I painted up a bit to make them look a little better, They seem a bit stiff, can I move the pre load ring up a notch and will that soften them or is the spring rate the only way to soften them up?



Man oh man!
I really like those "brand new" works shocks:()


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