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Brake lines for new lt front http://www.pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewtopic.php?f=97&t=4736	Page 1 of 1

Author:

adnoh [ Sun Oct 19, 2008 9:41 pm ]

Post subject:

Brake lines for new lt front

I had been testing with old lines streched and in a bad bind. I want to use some off the shelf parts found at any race/v-twin and honda shop for new set up. The new stup use I converter piece old tto new. 3 lines,1 tee and two bango fittings.

Attachments:

Flaring tools.jpg [ 72.33 KiB | Viewed 1912 times ]

cut and instll new end for tee, factory end on new fitting.jpg [ 97.71 KiB | Viewed 1912 times ]

stock end on new adapter.jpg [ 97.29 KiB | Viewed 1912 times ]

factory end flared on new fitting.jpg [ 63.3 KiB | Viewed 1912 times ]

Author:

adnoh [ Sun Oct 19, 2008 9:47 pm ]

Post subject:

Some more pics. I use two diff set ups #1 I used a converter to hose then to tee and new lines to calipers and #2 used fatory line to tee and new hose to calipers.

Attachments:

set up #2 factroy line to tee.jpg [ 87.73 KiB | Viewed 1911 times ]

Putting new end on facory line to tee.jpg [ 93.09 KiB | Viewed 1911 times ]

new line factory end adapter and new line to tee.jpg [ 74.95 KiB | Viewed 1911 times ]

tee set up on factory with new lines to calipers.jpg [ 77.75 KiB | Viewed 1911 times ]

Author:

adnoh [ Sun Oct 19, 2008 9:53 pm ]

Post subject:

few more pics. On #2 Iused it because it allowed me to moun tit behind and to flex plate.

Attachments:

new set up on hose in steering colum.jpg [ 80.73 KiB | Viewed 1909 times ]

new bango fitting with new line from tee.jpg [ 78.1 KiB | Viewed 1909 times ]

clearence on line at full lock.jpg [ 87.74 KiB | Viewed 1909 times ]

new brake line routing on amrs and line holders.jpg [ 90.03 KiB | Viewed 1909 times ]

Author:

adnoh [ Sun Oct 19, 2008 10:04 pm ]

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Time to bleed. The hacker method takes 15 min to pump down and blled ready to ride. First get tools, fluid, wrench and screw driver. Take off ccap fill with fluid hook up hand pump and vac in to caliper then repeat on other side keeping resavor full. after big air bubbles gone set vac at .20 tp.30 and barly crack and use brake handl to pump pressure maintaning min .10 of vacume untill small air bubbles then do other side and then set vac at .10 and hand pump using lever untill all gone then do other side and done. see pics. Oh ya clean all parts when done

Attachments:

File comment: tools

fluid bleeder and recovy container.jpg [ 72.78 KiB | Viewed 1908 times ]

air bubbles in new lines.jpg [ 66.39 KiB | Viewed 1908 times ]

smaller air bubbles in line.jpg [ 67.54 KiB | Viewed 1908 times ]

no air bubbles .10 inches of vacume and using hand lever to pump fluid.jpg [ 62.22 KiB | Viewed 1908 times ]

to clean all parts when done rotor bleeder ect..jpg [ 74.28 KiB | Viewed 1908 times ]

pulling fluid into new line via hand vacume pump.jpg [ 62.83 KiB | Viewed 1908 times ]

Author:	adnoh [ Sun Oct 19, 2008 10:08 pm ]
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final note. in last pic that is the pressure port. remove line from vac side and put on pressure port and than pump into storage container( non honda one used for prime and then honda fluid for final). Also the .10 method is used foe new season fluid change. 3 resavors full per side and done.

Author:

adnoh [ Sun Oct 19, 2008 10:12 pm ]

Post subject:

A night pic on test front

Attachments:

new woods set up high GC 8.5 inch of travle.jpg [ 62.92 KiB | Viewed 1905 times ]

Night shot of new set up after testing.jpg [ 50.87 KiB | Viewed 1905 times ]

Front view of new woods set up 8.5 inch travle.jpg [ 67.82 KiB | Viewed 1905 times ]

Author:	Drakman [ Sun Oct 19, 2008 10:24 pm ]
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How much different are the disk brakes than the old drums?

Author:	adnoh [ Sun Oct 19, 2008 10:42 pm ]
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Like night and day. The new allows for pedal feel and dive control on cornor set up. The rake of the trx allowes the front to dive under breaking setting up for quick cornor. It also help for kickers. you can pre load the front for kicker and levle off in flight where before it was rear skyward under breaking. You can also maintin throttle for longer on entry grab some front hit rear and drive thu on the power. I have the front set at neg 2 and neg 4 and it will out turn stock big time. It's still to quick so I will go -1 and-2 and retest I even had to add 1/4 " to each stop to help slow it down. Less wheel lock is good takes stress off of bump idler. The disk uses less pressure and provides 400% better breaking. The placment of caliper on spindle make a big diff on breaking. Even under pad lock just let up a little and it frees right up maintaining dive and turning, no push. I find myself now using more front than rear break peddle pressure. I will now look for replacment for rear maybe go dual caliper set up. I even found myself crossing up over jump and it squared right up without wheel jirk. The new Gc set up will work well at the river where theres plenty of obtacles and then lower for dunes and track. It was fun to drive, untill I ran out of gas. I feel real comfortable with this set up.

Author:	Drakman [ Sun Oct 19, 2008 10:58 pm ]
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On the trails in the past, it always looked like you could pass almost anytime you wanted to, now I am sure you can. I am really anxious to see the new and improved Adnoh Tolip.

Author:	vectorboy_99 [ Mon Oct 20, 2008 9:37 am ]
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You know, last winter I picked up a Brembo dual piston caliper off of ebay from a 800 skidoo, for like $15 including shipping. I bet that would work great on the rear for you. That might be something to think about. You can't get much better than Brembo either. Jim

Author:	adnoh [ Mon Oct 20, 2008 6:44 pm ]
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Drakman, nice touch at ending I like it. Thanks for the kind words. Vectory got a pic of caliper and how to apply thoughts helpful.

Author:	vectorboy_99 [ Tue Oct 21, 2008 4:01 pm ]
Post subject:
Well I haven't got it mounted yet. Too many other projects at the moment. But hoping in the next couple of weeks to begin. I am sure it will be a pain, but that's half of the fun. I just wish this half didn't take up more time than the other half of the fun. Jim

Author:	adnoh [ Tue Oct 21, 2008 7:04 pm ]
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That cool. Got any link to view type avalible. I have a lot on info on wildwood set up and they make one close to stock but in a twin cliper. I'll try to post pics when I get back to race shop and snap pics.

Author:	adnoh [ Tue Oct 21, 2008 8:12 pm ]
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I thought I would share some action reaction due to better front breaking. I commented on how well the front disk set up worked and the reaction of the front. One reaction I did not antisapate was the cvt shifting change. What? Yes it altered the back shift on the cvt. How? Well since I was leaning more on the front breaks I spend less time on the rear lever. This change the amount of time the rear was locked for pitch turn and slowing back shift and maintaning higher gear. This let the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) rpm drop and the clutch stay loaded. I played with the amount of rear brake required to achieve proper down shift to lower gear powering thu cornor to see what bias would be required to achieve proper down shift to drive out of corner. It took about ten turns to get handle on it. I will now play with a big bore to increase torgue for this set up. Yes, the easies way to increas torgue is displacment. I will set up a 82 mm bore with power porting. The dcp uses a stock "A" bore and piston presently with 14 pucks. I could drop one but this would efect the power range of my porting. Porting on the dcp is clean and match with a minor ex port and intake mod running 171 cranking pressure on pump gas. The key is either rull in harder with witder approach angle doing bounce turn or lock longer either way its will take a driving and shock change.

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