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PostPosted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 2:00 pm 
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Joined: Fri Feb 01, 2013 2:19 am
Posts: 345
Location: Redding, Northern California
hoser wrote:
Looking good.

You oil the air filter?

How did you modify the manifold, you would think dummy would have designed it to fit without modifications he "designed" it just for the 350 and had them special made, typical afterthought motorspurts.


Yes I used that UNI air filter oil which is weird because it is pretty clear.

I had to hack my stock airbox to get the after.shock manifold to work.
I don't mind running it without an airbox I actually do the same thing on my quads here anyhow.
I will be getting an outterwear pre-filter for the UNI like the one I run on my Banshee.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 2:04 pm 
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Posts: 345
Location: Redding, Northern California
Randman wrote:
So I take it you are using the stock Ody 32mm carb?

An easy way to get the boot onto the bottom neck of the air box is to do pull up the rubber intake elbow up from the inside of the air box. Just remove the filter and then remove the wire mesh that is over the box's intake hole. Insert your fingers into the hole and pull up thus working the intake boot onto the box's lower lip.

Rand


Tried the pull it up from the inside of the air box method and it just wasn't working for me...
Yes I have the stock 32 mm but would like to find a 35 mm like the one I run on my Banshee 350 if I can fit the sucker in there.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 2:06 pm 
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Joined: Fri Feb 01, 2013 2:19 am
Posts: 345
Location: Redding, Northern California
rmesser wrote:
SomeGuyFromCali wrote:
rmesser wrote:
I see your tube in the second picture. It looks like the tube goes on the inside of the pull start housing. Do you think water will collect around the base of the tube and enter your Engine? I'm thinking you may need some kinda boot fastened to the outside of the tube and the other end going over the pull start housing fastened tight around the housing. Kinda like the pull start handle goes over the rope guide it is on the outside not the inside. Make sense?


For now I sadly have to admit I used a piece of black duct tape. I didn't have a piece of heat shrink large enough.



Glad to it running. Looks great. How about a piece of a 10 speed inner tube and couple zips ties. just a thought.


Good idea, my buddy just told me they sell shrink tube by the foot at Ace hardware in huge sizes so I am going to stop in and grab a piece of that.
If that doesnt work I will go with the inner tube idea. Definitely don't want my case filling with water...


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 2:25 pm 
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Joined: Fri Feb 01, 2013 2:19 am
Posts: 345
Location: Redding, Northern California
Two questions for you guys

1) Question 1: Does a 45 pilot and 142 main sound about right for a stock FL350 32mm carb and a .050 over cylinder with no porting? It seems to run pretty good so far and even idles for me running 89 octane mixed at 32:1 with Blendzall racing castor.

2) Question 2: Someone has "customized" the transmission switch on the back of my transmission and the two wires that run into the switch are actually twisted together. It wont start if they aren't touching. What is this switch for and why would the former owner have twisted them together??

Image


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 2:33 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2009 2:10 am
Posts: 4678
Location: Carson City NV
That switch is a reverse rev limiter and neutral start switch. With the switch in tact and wired properly, the Ody will not start in gear and the Engine RPM is limited when in reverse.

The wires that led to that switch are probably grounded to the frame or the negative side of the battery.

Rand


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 2:46 pm 
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Posts: 345
Location: Redding, Northern California
Randman wrote:
That switch is a reverse rev limiter and neutral start switch. With the switch in tact and wired properly, the Ody will not start in gear and the Engine RPM is limited when in reverse.

The wires that led to that switch are probably grounded to the frame or the negative side of the battery.

Rand


Have you ever seen the two wires twisted together where i goes into the switch? Why would it not start then if they aren't connected together?
I was definitely in neutral but it refused to start unless they were crossed.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 3:09 pm 
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Posts: 4678
Location: Carson City NV
Are you saying that the wires are still attached to the switch and that these two wires need to be touching each other before it will start?

Rand


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 3:58 pm 
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Posts: 345
Location: Redding, Northern California
Randman wrote:
Are you saying that the wires are still attached to the switch and that these two wires need to be touching each other before it will start?

Rand


That is correct, sorry I forgot to snap a picture yesterday.

The two wires and go into the switch are twisted together and still attached to the switch also.
If I separate the wires it won't even turn over when I push the starter button up front with the key on.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 4:39 pm 
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Location: Carson City NV
In your case, the switch itself may be shot. The switch itself is just acting as a ground to allow your starter to operate.

Does the reverse rev limiter still work?

Rand


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 4:46 pm 
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Posts: 345
Location: Redding, Northern California
Randman wrote:
In your case, the switch itself may be shot. The switch itself is just acting as a ground to allow your starter to operate.

Does the reverse rev limiter still work?

Rand


I see, so basically if I don't want the rev limited I could just take both wires and ground them to bypass.
In the short test drive I took around the block I didn't feel the need to go full throttle in reverse yet!


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 4:53 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2009 2:10 am
Posts: 4678
Location: Carson City NV
Question.....

Does you Ody start in gear or in neutral only?

WARNING! If you do just chop the wires, connect them together and then ground them to the frame or battery, then your Ody will start in all three gear selections and there will be no rev limiter.

Rand


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 5:28 pm 
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Joined: Fri Sep 06, 2013 5:12 am
Posts: 159
Just wanted to add that you want to use premium fuel (91 octane or higher) to mix. In the service manual it states 92 octane or higher but that was written in 1985. In California most stations' premium is only 91 octane so that will do unless you can find a station selling higher octane fuel.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 07, 2014 2:06 pm 
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Posts: 345
Location: Redding, Northern California
jason702v wrote:
I had a 148 main and a 45 pilot in my stock carb for jetting. I have a stock Engine with a pipe though. I switched to the 36mm pwk and it REALLY woke it up.


Thanks for the comparison just curious if this was way off or not.

Hey Jason702v (and anyone else) since the lakes are all empty I am probably going to try and take the Odyssey out to Pollution Point near Jones Valley on Saturday.
It's that or Shasta Chappie OHV.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 07, 2014 2:07 pm 
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Posts: 345
Location: Redding, Northern California
hondaharry wrote:
Just wanted to add that you want to use premium fuel (91 octane or higher) to mix. In the service manual it states 92 octane or higher but that was written in 1985. In California most stations' premium is only 91 octane so that will do unless you can find a station selling higher octane fuel.


thanks I just had a 5 gallon jug of lawnmower gas laying around so that's what I gave her but won't be shy about feeding her the 91 next time.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 07, 2014 3:20 pm 
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Joined: Fri Feb 01, 2013 2:19 am
Posts: 345
Location: Redding, Northern California
The good, the bad, and the FL350 hauler I bought off craigslist last night:
Image

Drove an hour South from here to look at the trailer and decided to go for it. 10 minutes after leaving the craigslist guys house down the interstate this happened, checked the spare, and of course it was flat too.
Image

Drove 20 minutes South to the nearest Walmart only to figure out they don't have pre-mounted trailer tires there at that particular Wal-mart. (now its about 9pm) So then I drove another 50 minutes North to a bigger Wal-mart and got two tires mounted on rims already with the four lug but they were slightly taller (5" instead of 4"). Drove the 50 minutes back South again just praying the taller tires fit. Found my trailer still there and unmolested. Got the passenger side off just fine and the taller tire fits but just barely, maybe 1-2 inches of space.

Go around to the other side and try to get the driver side lugs free... no way. I jumped up and down on it, cussed at it, chewed on it with my teeth but nothing would get these lugs to budge. The rim was loose in the tire and off the bead so the rim would just spin even if I stood on the lug wrench to pin it against the tire. I couldn't figure it out why because the other side came right off. So at about 11PM after 2 hours of trying it is 35 degrees outside and I am still out there on the side of the highway cussing at these lugs and trying to figure out how to break them free while holding the tire.

I finally gave up and called for backup. The tow truck driver arrives and tried everything I tried and it wouldn't bust loose for him either so then he tried pushing down on the trailer with his hydraulics and using his impact drive with compressed air.

Finally at about midnight after the impact driver wouldn't even break it free the driver looks up at me and asks "Was this thing an old camper trailer before?" to which I nod and say yes I think the guy said it was converted from an old 60s camper. The driver laughs a little, grabs the breaker bar and raps on the handle in the clockwise direction. BAM, it breaks free. Moral of the story: some old trailers have reverse lug threads on the driver side!! I had never heard of this before and it was news to me so I am passing this along! The guy said old cars are like that too! Who knew?! Perhaps some of you guys out there did but I was blown away. Got home around 2AM with my new Ody hauler in tow and now my trailer has a story to go with it.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 07, 2014 7:13 pm 
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Joined: Fri Feb 01, 2013 2:19 am
Posts: 345
Location: Redding, Northern California
jason702v wrote:
SomeGuyFromCali wrote:
jason702v wrote:
I had a 148 main and a 45 pilot in my stock carb for jetting. I have a stock Engine with a pipe though. I switched to the 36mm pwk and it REALLY woke it up.


Thanks for the comparison just curious if this was way off or not.

Hey Jason702v (and anyone else) since the lakes are all empty I am probably going to try and take the Odyssey out to Pollution Point near Jones Valley on Saturday.
It's that or Shasta Chappie OHV.



Would love to but I'm workin Saturdays for the next few weeks. After that I'm ready to ride!


Hey my buddy is working Saturday also so we might go Sunday instead... just right there at the nob at the top of pollution point where you would launch a boat if the lake actually had water in it.
I will PM you my cell if you wanna meet up and go for an Ody ride. My buddies are bringing their Raptor 700R and Banshees. We will probably just fart around by the truck for awhile and then cruise down in to the lake bed. There are a couple of pretty good burns and a few hill climbs too.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 07, 2014 7:33 pm 
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Joined: Sat Mar 03, 2012 11:45 pm
Posts: 3610
Location: CHICO,CA
SomeGuyFromCali wrote:
rmesser wrote:
I see your tube in the second picture. It looks like the tube goes on the inside of the pull start housing. Do you think water will collect around the base of the tube and enter your Engine? I'm thinking you may need some kinda boot fastened to the outside of the tube and the other end going over the pull start housing fastened tight around the housing. Kinda like the pull start handle goes over the rope guide it is on the outside not the inside. Make sense?


For now I sadly have to admit I used a piece of black duct tape. I didn't have a piece of heat shrink large enough.

harbor freight sells some big packs of it for super cheap :-)


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 08, 2014 1:23 pm 
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Joined: Fri Feb 01, 2013 2:19 am
Posts: 345
Location: Redding, Northern California
B S wrote:
SomeGuyFromCali wrote:
rmesser wrote:
I see your tube in the second picture. It looks like the tube goes on the inside of the pull start housing. Do you think water will collect around the base of the tube and enter your Engine? I'm thinking you may need some kinda boot fastened to the outside of the tube and the other end going over the pull start housing fastened tight around the housing. Kinda like the pull start handle goes over the rope guide it is on the outside not the inside. Make sense?


For now I sadly have to admit I used a piece of black duct tape. I didn't have a piece of heat shrink large enough.

harbor freight sells some big packs of it for super cheap :-)


I got a shrink wrap kit from harbor freight but the largest size still wasn't big enough to fit around the neck of the pull start opening.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 09, 2014 12:41 pm 
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Joined: Fri Feb 01, 2013 2:19 am
Posts: 345
Location: Redding, Northern California
jason702v wrote:
A bunch of guys I work with have told me that jones valley is all closed down to ridin. They have a bunch of signs up and everything. The guys workin at jones valley can't even drive their four wheelers down to the launch from the resort.


Well that blows! Appreciate the heads up though there 702. We used to ride down there all the time a few years ago but I haven't been out there lately.
Before you were only allowed to ride down in the empty lake and not above the high water line... I guess they changed that.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 09, 2014 12:45 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2009 2:10 am
Posts: 4678
Location: Carson City NV
I keep telling you guys you need to come over the top of the hill to my area.....practically unlimited riding!

No Commifornicated riding restrictions!

Rand


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 09, 2014 5:10 pm 
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Joined: Sat Mar 03, 2012 11:45 pm
Posts: 3610
Location: CHICO,CA
SomeGuyFromCali wrote:
Randman wrote:
So I take it you are using the stock Ody 32mm carb?

An easy way to get the boot onto the bottom neck of the air box is to do pull up the rubber intake elbow up from the inside of the air box. Just remove the filter and then remove the wire mesh that is over the box's intake hole. Insert your fingers into the hole and pull up thus working the intake boot onto the box's lower lip.

Rand


Tried the pull it up from the inside of the air box method and it just wasn't working for me...
Yes I have the stock 32 mm but would like to find a 35 mm like the one I run on my Banshee 350 if I can fit the sucker in there.



get a 35 or 36 mm pwk if you want more bottom end torque
39mm if you want to haul ass lol
my odyssey had a dg ,a 39mm and a water cooled head and it haued :-)


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 13, 2014 1:12 am 
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Location: Redding, Northern California
Lil muddy
Image


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 13, 2014 1:53 am 
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Posts: 345
Location: Redding, Northern California
Couple of more shots from Saturday's test ride

Image

Image


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 13, 2014 3:00 am 
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Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2009 2:10 am
Posts: 4678
Location: Carson City NV
Where is it you were riding?

Rand


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 13, 2014 12:47 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 07, 2012 7:01 pm
Posts: 1018
Location: NW INDIANA
THIS is muddy! LOL

I'm on left.
My son on right
Denuch pilot in r rear.


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