I finally got oddzilla back together and she started right up.
Had one small leak on the temp sensor fitting because I didn't use any Teflon tape on it. Wanted a good ground but it back fired on me. Put some Teflon on it and checked ground with a meter. All good.
Compression 125 psi with a good American made gauge. Thought that was a bit low for a complete re-bore and rebuild but at least I won't be burning any holes in pistons with pump gas. I was also amazed at how quickly the temp came up. It only idled for a few minutes and I could feel the head warm up, not hot just luke warm. Pump was running. Haven't hooked up the temp gauge yet because I don't know where to mount it LOL. Have seen someone here make a dash board (I cut and paste the picture to wordpad) like that idea but don't know if I wana go through all that trouble for one gauge.
The other thing I noticed was oil creeping up the vent line from the counter balancer (did the mod).
I have read, cut n paste to wordpad a lot of the ideas of others here on this mod. Some of you use a bellows from a CanAm. Might have to go that route too. It looks like the mystery clutch might work but I haven't taken it for a spin yet. At least the belt lines up now.

Is that a fuel pump mounted on the rear of your ride i see?

You can't leave the end of your ballancer vent open with just a filter like that. That's the whole point of the bellows is to keep it sealed but yet allow someplace for the air to expand to.

Rand

Yes it is a fuel pump. It's a pump my buddy gave me off of his scrambler.
I know it's in a funky place but I don't race just trail ride.
I was also trying to get it low so it doesn't have to "pull" fuel. At the time I was having fuel issues.
Plan on making a fuel can holder at the back anyway so that should protect it.
This is the area all guys running an over head fuel tank should put the fuel tank IMO.

My question on this is: Why would the oil be migrating up the tube?
There shouldn't be any pressure in this caseing unless the lip seal on the crank is bypassing right?
I wonder if the new 11mm double lip seal from England is not sealing?

Gears are throwing the oil around in the cases. download/file.php?id=43211

Why?

1.) Because when you plug the vent which lead into the flywheel area, the ballancer cavity then becomes sealed. The hose you have on the dip stick opening is now the new vent. The reason oil migrates up the tube is that the dip stick tube is in direct line with the ballancer gear which throws oil directly at it and when the air in the ballancer becomes heated and expands, it takes the oil with it.

2.) There is a pressure build up because air expands when heated not because the lip seal on the crank is bypassing. Although the lip seal on the crank will pass some of the crankcase air into the ballancer area, it is not enough to make that much of a difference.

3.) Your 11mm double lip seal is a seal that is locked into a case and has a crankshaft that is spinning through the middle of it. By design this is not a perfect seal so it will have some air passing past the seal.

Rand

Ok I can buy the explanations but answer me this: If I get a CanAm bellows and you say there is always a small amount of pressure leakage around a seal wouldn't it just puff up the bellows until it blows ?? And if the bellows holds won't it force the oil in case past the double lip into the crank area ??

If your worried you have pressure, get a small pressure gauge and check the vent line. Might need one that goes down pretty low like inches of water.

The small amount of fluids and or air that leak past the seals is miniscule. The air in the ballancer will only expand just so much and then doesn't expand any more. I have done this modification to 8 Ody's and there has been no issues with loosing oil or having the bellows blow off. The bellows will expand about 1 inch longer than what it is in the relaxed condition. I also use a 3/8" ID hose to allow for more area of expansion.

Randy Bridgewater of racing fame is the one who invented the system, I just modified it to use the dipstick and put a bellows on it that is more flexible.

Rand

That looks good, the compression sounds good because everything is not seated yet. After you go thru the heat cycles it will level out. I done the same mod. for the case vent but I am going to change it while I have my Engine out. I am looking at placing it on the side of the cover and put a protector over it (just for safety). That way I hope it stops pushing the oil up the tube and just air. I have a bellows on mine and it works good. Nice job! Thanks Billy

Ah cool, thanks for the explanation!

Found a small issue today. The connector for the water pump doesn't make good contact. Sometimes the pump runs sometimes not. If I press on the connector it runs. Any of you who run these Bosch pumps, do you have an issue with this ?? What is your solution ??

Couldn't take it out for a spin today to check the mystery clutch. FN snowed yesterday and our roads were clear until then. It's been one of the mildest winters on record here. NO snow on the mountain pass to speak of. May be had one foot until yesterday. Mountian pass (Coquihalla ) closed yesterday cause of heavy snow. Just opened tonight. Normally there should be 30' plus of snow up there.

Thanks in advance for any pump connector help.

Even with the fitting on the side of the case as air travels out of the case, it will take the oil with it. Think about the stock configuration....the vent hole is high in the case on a horizontal plane and oil travels from one side of the case to the other and it even has to go through two cavities in the case to do it.

One trick I found is to make the hose as large as possible so that the air can bubble out past the oil and not push it up out of the tube.

Rand

Can you rotate your water pump 90 degrees? If so, you can shorten that hose running from the jug to the pump.

Thanks I will go to a bigger hose, makes since to me. But I still want to take it out of the dipstick hole. Thanks Billy

Just FYI, you will need to modify your belt guard for the vent hose.

Rand

I run my fill cap vent mod on Buggy#1 with 3/8" air hose and run it all the way up to the snorkel/brake light mount with a CCV filter. Never had any issues.

With the 30" vertical head + the tubing friction losses it'd have to overcome, it can't push much up the tube. The vent hole on the wet-side of the dip-stick plug is also pretty small and isn't in-line with the flying oil path. What's nice about the air fitting on the dipstick is that I can simply use the quick-connect coupler to pop off the line and check the oil level with the dipstick. Nothing runs out of the line, and its easy to check to oil.

Tough to get any tube or fitting much higher in there b/c there just isn't room between the case and primary clutch.

No matter where you put it in there, its likely to suck a little oil up the the tube. Besides the gears slopping the oil around, the buggy is also pitching, bouncing, etc down the trail.

Got pictures?

Rand

Of course!

http://www.pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=9268

So funny to see that pic of my daughter on my project log -- she's now 2! lol

Will do. I'm hell with a torch.... Thanks Billy

D$$ where did you get that water cooled head ??

D$$$ don't hold out on me LOL. Where you get the heads ???

The top one is an chucklenuts at aftershot motorspurts motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) sports head. I hear he quit producing them. Bottom one is an old Hillside Honda topend. Extremely cool topend(pun intended ).

I like the way you did yours. It turned out great.

I run a Rands water cooled head on my Fl350 with the Bosch heater core pump used by Mercedes and a radiator fan adapted from a Honda CBR 1100 all controlled by an in-line thermostat switch which turns on both fan and pump whenever the the H2O temp reaches 180 degrees F. I have been running this set up for over 2 years without incident and have ridden my 350 for over 3hrs non-stop in 90+ degree summer days. I strongly suggest soldering your connections to avoid them coming loose. Congrats on your project.