MD_ODY sent me his FL250 Engine for a CSI.

On a Engine this old EVERY bolt and nut was shock loaded BEFORE attempting to remove them by taking a brass punch and a hammer and tapping on them, a few good smacks is all it takes then they come right out.

First I wanted to remove the top end, removed all the head nuts and tried lifting the head off it would not move, tapped the head and cylinder a bunch of times with the rubber mallet, nothing.

Had to resort to the old put a chunk of rope between the head and the top of the piston then turn the Engine over by hand allow it to lift the head off, coiled up a chunk of 1/8" rope and stuffed it into the exhaust port then turned the Engine over using the clutch for leverage and it popped the head right off.

Next was the cylinder it would not slide off so I took a brass punch and a small hammer and tapped it upwards by tapping the roof of the intake and exhaust ports where the casting is thick and flat so I didnt have to worry about damage not sure why morons try to drive a wedge (screwdriver or chisel) between the bottom of the cylinder and the crank cases damaging the gasket surfaces OR by beating on the cooling fins until they break them off their is no good reason to go caveman on a Engine during disassembly.

Next was to remove the clutch, I havent pulled a stock clutch on a FL250 in so long I cant remember I looked but could not find my puller bolt so had to go to Fastenel and get another one it was a 7/8" x 3.5" NF bolt then I used a deep wall socket in the hole to push against the crank.

I had to order the bolt it came in the next day so this allowed me to stand the Engine up and spray PB Blaster in the hole and let it soak all night.

After I got the bolt naturally it would not just thread in the hole, I had to go digging and searching to find my 7/8 NF tap then chase the threads in the hole with the tap, all these years the aluminum had corroded enough it would not allow proper thread engagement, once I chased the threads a few times with the tap then rinsed out the bolt went right in, lubed the threads up really good and took the bolt in and out 3-4 times to ensure the threads were lubed really well then hit it with a impact and it popped the clutch right off.

The flywheel came right off using the correct flywheel puller, you can see where sometime in the past a part off the pull starter came off and did a dance inside the flywheel case see the scars on the flywheel.

This is common on the 250's I have bought more than one FL250 that didnt run because it had no spark and it ended up being a flake of metal in the points, metal off the flywheel

Might have saved on shipping with a good wash down before boxing.

More pics later, the cranks seals and bearings will be replaced on this rebuild, the crank seals on a FL250 are installed from the inside of the cases so are the first thing to be installed then the bearings so to change the crank seals you have to replace the crank bearings, their is no way to take the Engine apart without putting stress on the bearing balls.

Their was a little rust inside the Engine but nothing critical the cylinder wall is ok and so is the rod bearings they had plenty of oil on them.

The piston was replaced not too long ago I bet it does not have an hr run time on it if it has more the jetting must have really be rich their is no carbon to be found on the piston any place, no indications of any wear, the cylinder will receive a light hone and the piston and rings reused, it does look like they reused the piston pin, the pin is still good its just used, the bearing looks new, the pin might not be available any more?

That said here is the required parts list.

Circlips for the piston Need 2 http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/h ... 18000.html

Here is the part numbers for the wrist pin that is not available maybe search the web see if some can be found http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/h ... 7-000.html
http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/h ... 7-000.html notice these fit motorcycles also.

Need two of these crank bearings http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/h ... 0-003.html

One each of these seals. http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/h ... 7-003.html and http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/h ... 0-003.html

Also get two of these dowel pins in case I need them if not I will pay for them and keep for stock. http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/h ... 10140.html

Same with these cylinder and head dowels get two each. http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/h ... 7-000.html and http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/h ... 10140.html

A complete Engine gasket set viewtopic.php?f=63&t=12947

More pics as the build progresses.

Thanks hoser! Glad I sent the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) to you, otherwise I would've be hating life trying to get it apart.

I'll get the parts ordered; can I have it sent straight to you?

Yeah have them sent here no use paying for shipping 2x.

hoser,

The parts are on their way to you. I'll send the wrist pin out as soon as I get it; there wasn't an option to send it to you since I bought it on ebay.

hoser,

Did you receive any of the parts yet? I still have to purchase another ball bearing for the crank; Partzilla said they were out of stock. I have the wrist pin, and will send it to you as soon as I have the other ball bearing.

Hoser,

Ordered the parts from Partzilla, but for some reason I can't change the shipping address. Once I receive the parts, I'll send them your way.

Ok thanks.

Ok finished this Engine up, new crank bearings, crank seals, wrist pin, cir clips, full gasket set, honed the cylinder, prepped the piston, the piston was .75mm over and like new, I hoserized the crank cases and the cylinder to improve the flow of things basically removed all the casting flaws like casting flash that Honda never removed, you can see the intent of the design its just littered with flaws in the production process that impedes flow from the carb to the exhaust port.

If you look into the exhaust systems on most these machines you will find production caused flow issues their too, by REMOVING the spark arrestor is NOT a cure for ANY of the factory defects I mention and ADDS NO POWER unless its dirty or almost plugged then cleaning it will restore the lost power but will never add any more power to the system other than the psychological gains most guys think they got because they were smarter than the next guy and removed the spark arrestor but were too stupid to remove the entire exhaust and look further and correct the problems that are really causing problems I have yet find a single documented event where a spark arrestor was removed from any machine and it shown a improvement on a dyno.

The crankshaft is in good condition and in factory spec, no deep groove in the shaft where the seals ride.

I gave the cylinder a lite hone it looks like who ever replaced the piston never honed the cylinder just installed the new piston and rings and put it back together, I would give it a few heat cycles then break in as normal.

The intake manifold has a surface crack I cleaned it up then coated with yamabond their is still life in the manifold but I would start looking for another I think new is still available if you wanted to go new.

This manifold reminds me of my first FL250 it was cracked also, then my brother was working on a job they were installing a new rubber roof, he took a baby food jar to work with him and got some of that vulcanizing goop they used to bond the seams of the rubber roof together he also got me a chunk of that splicing rubber it was made by the same company that makes Carlisle tires, anyway I cleaned it up and bonded that rubber on the old manifold and used it for years after and it worked fine how ever things you need to consider when doing something like this like once you lose flexibility in the manifold to carb connection you induce more vibration and harmonics to the carb this can upset the float level setting and mess with your head you will think you have jetting problems when its just the carb shaking too much and frothing up the gas/oil in the float bowl, bad Engine mounts can also create this problem, a buddy bought a FL250 once really cheap because the owner could not "get it to run right" he even changed the CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) lol all it was, was broken Engine mounts 60 bux in Engine mounts increased the Odysseys value by $600.00 almost instantly.

This Engine came with a clutch I usually done get into them but since this one came with the clutch attached and looked weathered I figured I better take a quick look, first I noticed that its rusted up and will barley move, their is a fair amount of wear on the clutch faces, then I noticed the cover is cracked, while taking the cover off to investigate further I noticed someone has been inside before since their was one of the shim washers missing under the outer retainer ring thing.

One of the guide pins in the spider assembly are broken.

Surprisingly enough none of the springs are broken, I looked around the shop to see if I had any stock FL250 clutches I could rob parts off of and could not find any, you might ask around and get lucky but this clutch has a lot of wear you would be much happier with a Comet 94C as a replacement, you also can tune the 94C to meet your needs and really perk up the 250 even if all else is stock..

hoser,

You did an awesome job on that motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? ))! Really appreciate the great work. I just ordered the intake manifold, it's still available from Partzilla.

As for the 94C: is it possible to run it with a stock driven clutch?

The 94C will work with the stock driven yes but I would inspect the driven now while your waiting for the Engine to arrive, looking at the drive clutch I bet the driven needs attention.

The driven was the one I put on this board before, and you helped me determine it was for a sled. I got another driven for it from a buddy of mine.

As for the 94C, I thought the belt was wider than stock? If not, then it just cut my estimated cost in half.

The belt width is something I am not sure about you will have to do some research on I would locate who ever is selling them then call and ask if it works with the stock driven or if the stock driven needs modified for a wider belt. Maybe this guy can answer? http://home.mindspring.com/~royco/

Thanks hoser; I'll call them and check.

hoser,

Forgot to ask; you said the piston is 75mm, do I need to change the jets on the stock carb? I'm going to run it with a DG pipe, and may be 94C, but everything else is stock.