birvin wrote:
canadian oddy wrote:
Why do you need longer studs ?? You water cooled the original head didn't you ??
Also threading the grade 8 rod will be a bit of a chore, it can be hard. Make sure you use lots of oil and have a spare die around. The die must be new not some worn out crap from your tool box. Don't force the die. Also the split type adjustable die will break if you don't have the proper handle.
I am looking at options as far as the longer studs. I could bring them up to the top of the head and install the nuts to hold the head on. Or I could make mine like you did and install a gasket or O-ring to seal it, that way if another leak comes up it will be easier to fix. On the rod I plan on taking it to our machine shop and letting them thread it on the lathe, or I will. Mainly just looking at my best options for further down the road. Once I start riding it regular I don't want to spend all day working on it when I could be riding. Then do the PM on it after I get back from a day of riding. Thanks Billy
I am confused.
You should not need any gasket or O-ring to seal anything.
You welded tubes around the studs so how does any water get to that area ??
On my set up the studs and nuts are inside the water jacket area and the water can only get by the studs and into the combustion chamber if the head gasket leaks. On your set up the water can only get into the tube that surrounds the stud if the tube has a leak. Am I wrong ??
The stock studs should work just fine in my opinion. You may have to put the nuts on with a grabbing tool like needle nose pliers or one of those spring loaded three prong grab tools because your studs are down deep in the tube but still there should be no leaks there right ??