There's no tube attached to this vent on my Engine...what does it do and where does it go?

Here's a quick video of the fuel system. Is everything hooked up properly?

http://youtu.be/PIAhEUxVOus/

That vent is actually for the other side of the Engine for the counter balancer.
There is a port from this side that you took the picture and runs to the other side of the Engine.
If you look at the top right hand corner of the side you took the picture you will see a small hole.
That is the vent which runs to the counter balancer area. Honda had a flaw in their design. Oil will migrate through this vent hole and over to this area you took the picture. It fills your starter up with oil and takes it out. Most of us have done the "vent mod". Check the search box and type in vent mod.
If you don't want to do it then just put a hose on this vent nipple with a fuel filter on the end to keep crap out.

I looked at your video.
It seems everything is hooked up right but may I make a suggestion ?
Make sure your tank is clean and the fuel pick up lines are not corroded. I lost an Engine when it couldn't get enough fuel because lines were corroded up. Also I feel the Honda "T" check valves are crap. I built my own check valve but some guys use a spare jet and put it in the line right at the return to the tank. Not sure what size they use but #190 comes to mind right now. Use the search box and see if you can find the answer. Also make goddam sure your fuel pump is good. I can't stress this one enough. I have three fuel pumps in my spare box and all are shot. You check this by doing a flow test. Remove the line from the carb and crank your Engine over with the starter for ten seconds. Put the line in a measuring cup so you can see how much you get. My pump puts out 4.5oz in 10sec.
My pump is from a polaris scrambler. You need good fuel flow or you are done. Trust me, I have lots of scrap aluminum to prove it.

Holy crap...I measured the fuel output from the pump....barely 1.5oz in 10 seconds. No wonder the Engine seems starved!!!

I personally feel that a lot of the issues with the fl350 and two strokes in general are probably fuel related with special mention going to fuel pumps.
That's just my opinion and I am sure it will be challenged.

Buy a rebuild kit or buy a Mikuni fuel pump?

Buy a new pump. They are cheap. Get one from a polaris scrambler.
Model #3085275. I believe they are all standard now for polaris.
All the other fuel pump models have been replaced with this one.
It puts out 4.5oz in 10sec and is slightly larger than the stock oddy one but not much.

Thanks...I'll swing by the dealer tomorrow.

What about the Mikuni pumps for 18 bux will they work?
http://www.powersportsuperstore.com/Mik ... lick=35177
Many others to choose from https://www.google.com/search?q=mikuni+ ... l&tbm=shop

Looks like the Polaris pump is about 45 bux?

The Mikuni pumps are rated for 14 litres per hour which equates to 1.31498977 US fluid ounces per 10 seconds (according to Google). Is this adequate? That's about what I'm getting now with the stock pump.

I tried to do some calculations for fuel flow at WOT (Wide Open Throttle).
I calculated at 55mph which is what an oddy can do. Also used 10mpg as a reference and a 4.5us gal tank. The numbers didn't seem right. May be Adoha can do the math better than me.
All I know is the polaris pump puts out 4.5oz per 10sec and that's 4x's what my stock oddy
pumps were putting out. Also keep in mind that fuel "T" that returns fuel to the tank. If it's weak
your gona have a problem.
It's just my bias opinion.

I run those Mikuni pumps on both of our FL350's and they have worked great.

No need to buy a new pump, rebuild the one you have.

Winderosa makes a very nice rebuild kit for the FL350 pump. I have rebuilt 2 of them and they work just fine.

Rand

RobDek, just a little constructive criticism if I may.....

Please get rid of the tie wraps that you are using to secure your fuel system. They are prone to sun rotting and will break off, resulting in a hose coming off. If the fuel finds an ignition source, you know what happens next.

Your fuel feed line from the petcock to the pump is routed improperly. It is resting against the air box and will eventually wear a hole through the hole through to hose or the air box. My bet is the fuel line.

The line from the pump feeding the "T" is also improperly routed. There are tabs and or slots in the side of the tank used to secure all of the aforementioned lines.

Your throttle and choke cables should be routed through the loop that you fuel filter is routed through.

The small little hose you are playing with in the video is for your carburetor overflow. There are three of them.
1.) One on the left side of the carb.
2.) One on the right side of the carb.
3.) One attached to the bottom of the fuel bowl.
The overflow hoses on each side of the carburetor are attached to a nipple (again on each side of the carb) which is located just above the fuel bowl at the same level as the top of the throat of the carburetor. These hose then run down through small loops attached to the fuel bowl screws. From there they run down into a loop which allows them to puke on the ground when the carb overflows.

It is essential that all of these hoses are connected properly in order for your carburetor to breathe and operate properly.

Rand

Three shops later and all I could source was this Mikuni pump built for B&S and Kohler engines.



It's cheap and it works...but not rebuildable.

Not a fan of the zip ties either but that's how the machine came to me. I'll replace them when I get a chance. I'll take a closer look at the routing to ensure there's little wear & tear.

Today, I checked out the fuel supply and cleared the pick up lines in the gas tank.

The carb is getting plenty of fuel but the Engine is still cutting out at 6,000 rpm. Air filter is clean as a whistle and when I start the Engine without, it increases the rpm a bit but no remarkable difference.

I don't know much about that fuel pump you bought but I am not a fan. It's your Engine.
Could you be more specific when you say it "is still cutting out at 6000 rpm".
What does this mean ?? Is it missing ?? Is it just running out of power ??

Just runs out of power. Maxes out at 6,000rpm or so with the throttle pressed all the way down.

That sounds like it is running out of fuel. Try a bigger main jet.

And even with the rpm maxed out at 6K, the buggy isn't getting any speed on. Even at 6K, should be rolling good.

Is it smoking a lot when its not revving out ?

Are the clutches working properly is it shifting into high gear too soon then the Engine does not have enough power to recover from being in high gear so soon?

I agree with Hoser here.
Your clutch or belt might be slipping.
At 6000 rpm you should be moving. At max rpm these machines will do about 55mph.
It is a bit deceiving though because when I ran mine with my brother chasing me in his truck he
said I was doing 55mph but it felt like 30mph to me.
Try the bigger jet for shitsngiggles.

Normal smoke at idle and low speeds. Lots of smoke at high Engine speeds but going nowhere fast. Maybe it is the clutch... I'll put the buggy on a jack, block the wheels and run it in gear to see what's going on. I've never had a smell from the clutch or the belt. Anyhow, it's just not hooking up to it's full potential.

If the Engine is in fact running 6k rpms that means the plug is firing 100 times a second at 6000 rpm or at least its suppose to be if the plug is only firing 3 out of 5 times then the 2 times it did not fire the air/fuel makes you think your running rich because some of that mix is carried over to the next combustion cycle and makes it rich, the misfire also sucks the heat out of the combustion chamber this adds to the power loss and sluggishness, you know how a cold 2 stroke is sluggish until up temp, don't rule out a misfire.

Alright....it's time for a professional consult to determine what's going on. Tough to fix something without a proper diagnosis. Just spinning my wheels in the mud. Will get back with an update.