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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 07, 2006 4:24 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
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Location: Chicago
Cant wait to try and wear these out.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 07, 2006 8:10 pm 
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Everytime I get new shoes I think I can run faster!

Wonder what it will do for the "Hoser-hauler!"


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PostPosted: Sun May 07, 2006 8:25 pm 
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Location: Chicago
litespeed wrote:
Everytime I get new shoes I think I can run faster!

Wonder what it will do for the "Hoser-hauler!"


They are taller than the old tires so hopefully will give me a lower rpm at hwy speeds I would like to have 70 mph as a top speed not 60 lol


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PostPosted: Sun May 07, 2006 11:21 pm 
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Joined: Tue Apr 04, 2006 10:36 pm
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for as much as you use it they will last a while. But supriseingly enuff they actually the rears wear pretty fast on a truck application anyway, the bus is looking good, when is it headed for silver lake i may have to come check it out?


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PostPosted: Mon May 08, 2006 12:06 am 
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Joined: Fri Jan 23, 2004 12:23 am
Posts: 237
Location: Florida
This gauge here would be a sweet addition to the dash panel. It would make figuring out optimum cruise speed much easier:
http://www.ebay.com/ Item number: 4636885748
With the price of gas lately, it could potentially be a worthwhile investment.


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PostPosted: Mon May 08, 2006 5:55 am 
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Location: Chicago
Bill.. wrote:
This gauge here would be a sweet addition to the dash panel. It would make figuring out optimum cruise speed much easier:
http://www.ebay.com/ Item number: 4636885748
With the price of gas lately, it could potentially be a worthwhile investment.


Cool looking setup, years ago a buddy of mine bought a Engine monitor thing it was all digital it would readout oil pressure, fuel pressure, Engine temp, had built in cruise control and also would monitor fuel flow and mpg it would be trick for finding the sweet spot, this thing has a Holley carb and some day I will need to ensure its tuned correctly you have any tips or tricks, lucky for me 99% of the time the Engine will be running 3000 to 3500 rpm so I really only need to fine tune for that rpm range, also I thought the EGR valve actually helped with gas mileage? I noticed today this one has been disconnected at some point in the past it also looks like it might have had air injection at one time but all the tubing has been disconnected and plugged, the intake paint don't match the rest of the Engine so I guess the manifold could be off another Engine, their is no brackets or a place where I can see a air pump was once bolted on this Engine.


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PostPosted: Tue May 09, 2006 11:21 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 23, 2004 12:23 am
Posts: 237
Location: Florida
Yeah, I've seen those digital mileage computer deals and they looked pretty sweet but were expensive back then. Don't know if the price is reasonable these days. Fuel air meters are pretty cheap and accurate but you have to weld a probe into the exhaust to use one of them. Not exactly the same as a fuel flow meter but a good way to make sure your aren't running the Engine to fat a mixture.

Does the bus have one of the big 2 barrel Holley or a 4 barrel? If you have a mechanical secondary (Double Pumper) 4 barrel on there, forget it your mileage will suck no matter what you do until you get a vacuum secondary carb and dial in the secondaries to open only when needed. Those double pumper Holleys are great performance carbs, but when you put your foot in them it is like flushing the toilet, they flow some gas. Also, a spread bore 4 barrel will give you a little better mileage if you can keep it from opening the secondaries at cruise. That big block in the bus should have plenty of torque to pull the load, but it may very well have to have all 4 barrels open to pull the load at highway speed. However, I'm sure you could tune on it a bit and squeeze some better mileage out of it.


There are a few cheap things you can do to get better mileage from a Holley. Mostly just keep jetting it smaller until it will barely run, then go back up a size or two on the jets. Jet the primaries lean and the secondaries a few sizes fatter so it will pull good when you have your foot in it. You can mess with the accelerator pump and put smaller less aggressive cams on there and that will help as well, but it will cost you acceleration performance for sure. Just as with the buggies, what ever jetting changes you do, only make one change at a time, and I would jet it under loaded condition since it will normally be used for a tow vehicle. A properly working EGR should help the mileage. I knew a guy that disconnected his EGR on a bone stock Chevy truck and it killed his mileage (that is with no other changes, just the EGR) . Once it was hooked back up it went back to normal gas mileage. The air pump will only hurt your mileage, it does reduce emissions though. Altitude can really screw with a carb as well. My old Camaro would not run for crap when I took it up through the grand canyon and reached those higher elevations. It ran like crap up that high. It was running super rich. I guess it was down on power from the air being thin up there.

One thing that will kill your mileage is the distributor. No matter points or HEI, make sure the mechanical advance weights and springs are in good working condition. If it has points get rid of them and go to an HEI. That is a good cheap mod. You might drop by the local county bus maintenance depot and ask some of the old timer mechanics. They might have some mileage tips specific to your bus that could help. Some of them old timers really know their stuff and can be good people to know for parts resources as well. If I can think of any other things I'll post them. I have a few books on tuning Holleys if you want I can send them up to you. I don't know if you have experience with them but they are real easy to work on and figure out once you have messed with them a little bit.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 10, 2006 6:37 am 
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Location: Chicago
Thanks for the tips Bill I will take some pics of the carb and try to get numbers off of it today, I have no tuning experiance with the Holley I didnt look close before but I think it is a square bore carb I will see if it is a manual secondary carb too..

This Engine already has the HEI I havent lifted the cap yet but will and will check the advance system close I have had them small plastic bushings for the weights go bad more than once in other engines, you know where I can get them bushings? The last set I bought came with a advance kit.


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PostPosted: Wed May 10, 2006 10:37 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 23, 2004 12:23 am
Posts: 237
Location: Florida
All the car parts stores told me the bushings are a dealer only item and then at the dealerships they wanted to sell me a shaft or a whole distributor so I ended up making my own bushings from stuff from Ace Hardware. They sell plastic washers and plastic bushing tube things and I just cut, and drilled them to the correct size and it worked fine for me. The bushing from those Mr. Gasket advance weight kits will work also but I don't think they have the shoulder at the bottom like the factory bushing does. You can just stick a plastic washer under there and cut the bushing down a little and it works fine that way also. I have seen those factory weights wear all the way through the bushing and then wear their way completely through the mounting stud before. In that case you gotta replace the whole distributor shaft so it is a good idea to take a peek at them about once a year or so.


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PostPosted: Thu May 18, 2006 4:36 pm 
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Location: Chicago
Back to the rear door, I fabricated some stands out of drop offs tubing I used for the rear door, I have a piece of 3/4 plywood from a old work bench I can use as a flip out or go with the ramps, plywood will require me to install a assist cable and spring on the door to raise and lower and that's another project.... so for right now I think I will go with ramps Pilotman said he has some aluminum ramps I can have so will have to give them a try.

At this angle loading and unloading should be a breeze.


Right now the procedure is lower the rear door then pick it up and slide in the stands into the tail gate, its just a 3/8 bolt that slides into holes drilled into the tail gate.


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PostPosted: Sun May 21, 2006 10:22 pm 
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Location: Chicago
Productive day today, installed the A/C , vent and new front door.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 21, 2006 10:23 pm 
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Location: Chicago
Old bus door weighs about 150 lbs with all the hardware glad to see it gone


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 11, 2006 10:13 pm 
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Location: Chicago
The Big west summer of sixes ride ride was a great trip it was the maiden voyage of the hoser hauler, I left home with the bus in the condition of everything started and nothing finished Pilotman and I rigged up a shower curtain on the fly so we could take a shower, after 3125 miles the bus ran great never missed a beat I cant wait to finish it and take another trip, I am now glad I took the trip in a unfinished condition because now I have used it I have a whole list of changes and new ideas that will make it a better hauler when I am finished.


Killpecker Dunes (Rock Springs WY)


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 Post subject: hose hauler
PostPosted: Fri Jul 14, 2006 3:24 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 25, 2004 10:02 am
Posts: 2196
Location: East Peoria IL
any updates or have you been working on other stuff?


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 Post subject: Re: hose hauler
PostPosted: Fri Jul 14, 2006 5:35 pm 
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Posts: 22120
Location: Chicago
rmesser wrote:
any updates or have you been working on other stuff?


I havent really touched it since I got home I did a few little things but nothing really worth reporting, I was suppose to go to Lightspeed's house this weekend to do the cabinets but I will be working tomorrow so wont make it maybe next weekend?

After the cabinets are in I can finalize others small items, I still need to install a helper spring on the rear door so its easier to lower and raise, I want to install a trailer hitch, air tank for air tools... the list is long I expect to make good progress this fall when it cools off.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 26, 2006 4:18 pm 
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Location: Chicago
Decided to do some work on the bus today, need to mount the entertainment center I had it billy bob for the last trip, their is a cavity about 8" deep in front of the bus above the drivers head.



First I drilled the hold then cut out an opening for the 19" monitor I will be using.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 26, 2006 4:19 pm 
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Location: Chicago
1.5" high density insulation behind the wall, no surprise here every place I have opened up has had insulation.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 26, 2006 4:19 pm 
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Location: Chicago
Insulation removed exposing the clearance light wires.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 26, 2006 4:20 pm 
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Plenty of room for the speakers I will install.


Looking in the hole to the right


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 26, 2006 4:21 pm 
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Location: Chicago
Looking to the left.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 26, 2006 4:21 pm 
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Monitor setting inside.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 26, 2006 4:25 pm 
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Here is where I need design suggestions, I want to make use of the space left over, first thought was to install some of the computer speakers up their, sub would be left on the floor some place out of the way, I want to use the rest of the space for computer/DVD entertainment related storage.

So I cut it out like on the pink dotted lines?


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 26, 2006 6:22 pm 
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Location: Chicago
I went ahead and cut two openings on each side that will get doors, I decided that area would be more useful as storage and the speakers will be located elsewhere.

They make wireless computer speakers? Link?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Dec 27, 2006 1:43 am 
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Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
re-insulate or you might cook your monitor etc.!!!


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 27, 2006 9:37 am 
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Location: Chicago
Turbotexas wrote:
re-insulate or you might cook your monitor etc.!!!


Yup any place I open up I insulate it better than I found it, the firewall insulation is horrible I about cooked my feet driving through NE on the big west trip, the one day it was about 100 degrees, I had to stop and buy a fan to blow air on my feet and to blow the heat out from under the dash area, I will be insulating the fire wall and ducting air up to that area under the hood so it don't happen again.


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