Hello guys. Great site you got here.

I've learned a ton of stuff from just reading, but now I decided it's time to actually join and introduce myself. My name's Kevin located in Cleveland OH. Love my toys and am no stranger to 2 strokes. I have a bad habit of not being able to leave anything stock.

I unfortunately found a good deal ($1800 with a trailer) on my 85 oddy 350 and bought it before doing any real research on it. It wasn't a basket case, but some parts did come in a box. It did run but had the battery box missing so it was pull start only.

The previous owner pulled it up on the trailer for me and he mentioned it needed brakes. So I assumed he meant adjusted???

When at home I went over it and started her up, got in and took off. Found out quickly it had NO BRAKES!!!! Actually ran into the house because of it. Thank god I only blipped the throttle. That's when I realized the drive clutch is a bit sticky, so it acts like a bigger stall which caused me to launch really hard. DOH!!!

Since that day I found this site and have done a lot of reading. Usually until I fall asleep or my eyes hurt. At first I was really bummed out from all the bad stuff I read. Over heat problems, lack of parts, bad crank seals (age related), no affordable replacement shocks, etc....

I've since figured out that it's just going to be a regular maintenance toy. One that I won't ride a lot, so just keep up on it and It should do fine. Not many places to ride around here, so I'll have to trailer it places, that's why it won't see much use. Although I do use an old Burger king parking lot as a go kart track. It's a little small, but it does allow me to ride and is quite fun when we get snow/ice.

Here's a link to my Yerf Dog 3206 go kart that got me started into these buggy's.
http://buggymasters.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2601


Things I've done to the Oddy thus far:


Rebuilt the master cylinder and adjusted the brakes so now they work

Installed new steering linkage heim joints. Never have I seen a bearing fall out of a heim before.

Cleaned/lubed all cables and control levers

Drained and filled all fluids (low level mark on balancer)

Rebuilt starter (although it's stopped cranking recently)

Installed the battery box with a new Deka AGM battery

Installed a new Comet driven clutch

Thoroughly cleaned carb (PO had a 135 main installed with a 45 pilot clip in 3rd position)

Came with a UNI filter inside the air box.

I did the dual snorkel mod with no filters at the opening. (installed a 145 main jet, but seems too rich)

Modified a set of Fox shocks for the rear as I'm too cheap to buy the WORKS. PO had steel tubing as solid struts when I bought it. (figured I'd buy new shocks for it..... Remember when i said i didn't research this thing?)

It came with 22 11 10 tires on the rear. I also have new 24 11 10 tires for it.


This is a track/trails buggy that will be used for friends and family. No dunes or long wide open spaces for this one.


Wants list:

Looking into installing a PWK 35mm carb

94C duster clutch (stock clutch is worn out)

Possibly a DG pipe, but the loud "silencer" concerns me



Questions:

Has anyone installed an aftermarket "silencer" on the stock exh pipe and had good results? (not a ton of info on exh pipes. Usually just my DG is too loud, what can I do?)

Is the DG pipe with a CR 500 FMF silencer a good option?

I have my front tires adjusted to 1" toe OUT and it wants to "push" in a corner pretty bad. Meaning I turn the wheel and the buggy still goes straight. Anyone got any input on this one?

My driven clutch seems to be spinning oblong. (Hence the reason for the change) Is this a sign of the input shaft bearings gone bad? If so, what bearings do I need, or do you recommend?

My gas tank drain bolt is leaking and the crush washer is installed. Any other tips on this, or just get a new washer?


Sorry about the long post, I was hoping to get all the pertinent info up in 1 post. Thanks for your time, Kevin

Pics of my modified rear shocks







They are only 1/2" longer than the stock shock, adjustable, and rebuildable

Uni-strut seem to make a good shock adapters how is the spring rate?

Add to your wish list a prefilter mod, stop about 95% of the dirt dust before it reaches the filter that determines your engines life, also add the dual inlet air box mod for better breathing.

Dual air box mod is already done. Not too dusty of conditions so I'm not really concerned about the prefilter yet. If i notice it getting dirty fast, that may all change.

Spring rate is a bit light. Came off a snow mobile. But I'm only 160 lbs and I'm sure there are heavier rated springs for Fox shocks available.

That yerfdog is what got me started too! And the guy who posted beneath you in that link,rarerat,is a member here.I think he still has his
No pics handy,heres an old video of the one I had.Welcome to the forum

Quote:

They are only 1/2" longer than the stock shock.

ONLY? That's enough to bind up your driveshaft uni joints!
Have you jacked up the rear end,rotated your wheels and checked that your uni's are'nt binding on their yokes?
If not,do yaself a favour.
If you jump and the susp goes full droop then ya can kiss goodbye your joints,then maybe your shocks as well.
Because often the escaped driveshaft will flay around and take em out too.
From memory you don't wanna be longer than 390mm eye-eye.

Nice Yerf. I like the stereo and all of the extra lights. You must have really beefed up the elec system. Were you running a 12 pole magneto and flywheel?

Yeah, Rarerat was one of the guys I got some help from as soon as I bought the oddy. He told me to join here.

I did try that when I installed them. Not a lot of room, but no binding either. I'm pretty sure this buggy won't be seeing much jumping. Thanks for the tip though

EDIT: Just to check things out I measured the stock shock. It's a tad over 15" long eye to eye. (about 15 1/8")

130mm is about 5 1/8" So your 390mm max is about 15 3/8"

I'm right on the edge or a touch over that.

If that's the case, I can shave 1/8" off the nut and run the heim joint in to shorten the overall length

Thanks again for the tip

I keep reading people want you to keep an eye on your jetting, but I never see anyone refer to piston wash.

Is there a reason for that?

We use wash all the time on PWC to see how the Engine has been running and can often catch a lean condition before it holes a piston.

Wow your gonna shave 1/8" off ya nut?...Now that's dedication for ya!

No,I just ran a 2nd battery for the stereo.If I remember correctly the electrical system handled the extra lights,hell I cant remember.The lights might have been hooked up to the stereo battery also.

if your looking of some parts i have some 94c clutches and plenty of other parts


can you weld?

the DG pipe with a cr500 fmf silencer worked great

Also, if you have a starter in your box of parts, provided the armature isn't busted up or worn through, you can rebuild it with new brushes for like $20. A lot of times, too, the starters quit working after they've been soaked with oil that has migrated out of the balancer case through the vent holes and into the starter.

Dam, wish you would have posted earlier. I just ordered up a few hundred $$ worth of parts last night. Used starter from a member on here, New 94c ribbed face, wheel bearings, brake pads and shoes....

I can do some welding, I'm not real good, but don't mind trying. Only have access to a small Lincoln MIG

Thanks for the DG pipe FM silencer combo confirmation. I think those with the PWK 35 should make this thing REAL fun.

Thanks for the tips.

I did do a starter rebuild, but that only lasted a VERY short time. Just opened it back up last night to see why it stopped working only to find the brushes completely gone. I mean dust and small pieces of brushes fell out of it. Looks like the armature may be too far gone, that's why I just bought a used one from another member.

Actually cut about 1/4" off my nuts.

I'm now just a tiny bit longer than stock. 1/8" at the most.


The guy I bought it from had a heavy cable bolted from the frame to the trailing arm kinda like a tether just in case there was a mishap?

Never really understood its purpose. Anyone else do something like this?

Installed the PWK A/S 35mm and the ribbed 94C on my buggy with the stock exhaust. Seems to be much snappier from just a quick test run after install.

Unfortunately I noticed stress cracks in the rubber of the intake manifold. Looking for another one. Is there something I should be looking out for?

Also noticed it has carbon Fiber reed petals from looking through the intake. Not sure what reed cage in in there. Looks like 3 petals, so maybe stock cage with Boyesen C/F reed?

My ol mate married a girl called Tether.
Ah hangon,sorry her name was Heather,THEN became his Tether!

Yes the tether is to hold it all together as the driveshaft is major part of suspension,when it breaks the wheel goes awol,nothing to hold it in.

i got one shoot me a message

Message sent

Installed new brake shoes, and wheel bearings on the front as well as going through the fuel pump. I bought the Winderosa rebuild kit, then read up on it here. Decided to clean the OEM parts (wasn't bad at all internally) and put it back together.

Took her for a test run, was pretty fun. I climbed a pretty good sized snow mound with ease.

Just wish I could make this thing turn better. It's like trying to turn your car on ice. Any type of speed and it "pushes". Really sucks. I have to come to a slow "creep" just to make a turn.

I'll have to see if I can find some better tires for the pavement and see if that helps some. I do most of my test and tune in a parking lot.

Looking into rear wheel bearings and possibly new U joints for this if anyone has any input I'm all ears. Thanks

Steering....you can always just risk the tie rod failure and binding and grind down/off your j-arms' steering bump stop! lol

Big fat wide grippy rear tires don't help.

They really aren't made for tight hair-pin turns. Be thankful they have reverse.

If you have a tight turn to negotiate and have the space, drift it!

I just don't get it, the Yerf Dog will out maneuver the Oddy and it has just as wide rear tires (22/11/8) and a solid axle too.

Drifting it isn't really an option where I test. 6" curbs, brick building, and parked cars next door become my guard rails if I lose it.

Maybe I'll test 0 Toe in/out and also a slight toe in and see if that helps.

It's prob not bad on dirt, but on cold/wet pavement it might as well be ice. It accelerates really nice, but having to slow to almost a stop in order to turn is quite a bummer. No power through a turn sucks.

You turn these with the throttle & brake. If I am on a tight trail I will come into the turn & tap the brake to start to put it in a slide & then power through the turn. I don't think testing on pavement will give you the best results. The Yerf is shorter & has a wider front end to rear end compared to an Ody. The rear tires don't have near the bite or at least my daughter's Yerf tires don't compared to an Ody so it's not a really good comparison IMHO.