Vent mod info https://www.google.com/#q=vent+mod+site ... dyssey.com

Clicking on a picture of interest will take you to the post the picture was attached too and most likely to the info your looking for. https://www.google.com/search?q=vent+mo ... CAcQ_AUoAg

Well, he is an update. The machine shop says 81mm is in order so I have a new weisco piston on the way.

I am now going thru the rest of the Engine.

I have pulled the stator and replaced the crank seal on that side.
Is the crank seal on the other side able to be changed without splitting the case.
I assume it is.
I did have some oil in the stator side. There should not be oil inside there?? should there??
Perhaps it came in from the seal being old ??
Ive attached pictures.

I have replaced the outside oil seal as on the clutch side.
New gaskets ordered.

There is oil in there from blowing over from the venting on the balancer side. I just did the balancer vent mod to prevent this from happening again . You may also want to inspect your starter for oil and maybe rebuild while you have it apart the kit to rebuild is only $10. There is a vent hole at about "1oclock" above the stator that needs a self tapping screw with a touch of silicone to close off the vent/oil problem. You also need to recent the balancer side after you do this. I just did this mod on one of my 350's. Good luck!

Look at the starter last night. Did not seem to have any oil in it. I could not get one of the ends off? The end that has the terminal screw did not seem to want to come off. The gear end pulled right off after I removed the two screws.

How does the other end come off.

It won't come off for you because the brushes have worn a groove in the comutator (not sure if I spelled that right). Also the bearing might be a tight fit on the end housing. Can't remember how I did it. Here are some pics. May help.

Well, still waiting for the machine shop to finish my Cylinder. I have done all the scrubbing and cleaning and painting I can do for right now. I did order my bellows to do the Vent Mod. Here is a picture of the cap I made.
So All I need to do is get a fuel filter and some tubing and then I guess this will be done?

Looks good.
Did you remember to plug the original vent hole with a screw ??
Make sure that tube is secure and don't come out. Stupid me silicone a hose in that cap and it came out. Lucky not Engine damage.

Ok...so the cylinder is back from the machine shop. I was very happy as usual with the results. This guy has done other work for me in the past.

I put the Engine back together very slow and methodical like.

I mounted it back into the frame and called it quits for the night.

It a lot heavier all put back together than I remember. LOL

So tonight I will hook the electrical back up and the exhaust and try to fire it off using a gravity feed just at idle.

I have not sorted out the fuel line routing and hook up yet.

I don't think just firing it off this way should hurt anything. Chime in if anyone thinks this is a problem.

Looking good. If it was me I would go ahead and get the fuel system back to OEM. The work has to be done sooner or later, why not sooner. I do not like/trust gravity feed on an odyssey or pilot. Not worth the risk.

It may be best for you to just have one thread, just one place to review and for guys to reply. Like last night I answered about the head gasket and then a little later I remembered your fuel pump thread, and I got concerned about you starting it without the fuel pump and possibly the wrong jets, but I wasn't sure if you were the one changing to the fuel pump. If it was in one thread then I could have reviewed. Alsothe recommendation to pressure check and use the correct fuel is over in the head gasket thread.

I have everything to go back to a stock setup. New fuel pump and a new three way "TEE" piece. Just haven't sorted out the routing and hook up yet.
I was going to use a temporary tank to fire it up for the first time.
Just to idle..no riding...

I have not got the fuel lines yet to do the complete fuel system hookup.

Cool, like Jimi Hendrix said "are you experienced" at doing heat cycles? Also fill up the float bowl with gas/mix so you don't run the Engine dry when cranking to get fuel to the cylinder.

OK..so I finished my crank case vent MOD. I guess its hooked up right? What is the bellows suppose to do? It is not zipped tied yet. It will not be resting on the muffler when done .LOL

I put gas in my temp tank, pressed the gas a few times and then hit the starter and KABOOM!!! IT LIVES!!!!!!

The old gal fired up immediately..did not even stutter... just fire and lets go.

I guess I did something right!!

So now I will finish going back with the stock fuel tank and new fuel pump setup.

Still trying to figure out how to route and hookup all those damn lines!

Thanks for everyone getting me this far!

Im not done yet and still will have a million questions.

Oh, the old stock Salsbury Clutch works great. It moves in and out with no problems.

Had some help last night from Grease Monkey Jr.

The bellows will expand when the air inside the balancer cavity expands.

How did you secure the small brass fitting into the Ford petcock?

What's the point of the fuel filter? Better get it away from the exhaust pipe or you're going to melt a hole in it!

Rand

Filter is only needed on an open system. With the bellows you have a closed system so no filter needed.

rebuild is looking good - keep up the good work.

Did you see the fuel line picture in the manual? It should help with the fuel line routing.

In the last picture here look right above the fuel filter. There is a tab on the frame with a hole in it. I run my line through that. That will hold your line away from the exhaust. I also run the filter like your set up. I think it stops the oil from migrating up the line to far. Two more points 1) how are you holding that fitting in the plastic plug ?? Is it secure ?? 2) The bellows must be held on the hose firmly or it may blow off. Can-am makes a special crimp piece for this. Tie wraps don't work in my opinion.

Yes, all the hoses are going to have hose clamps on them when Im done. I got a 1/4 brass hose barb between the bellows and the line going to the bellows. I don't think it will blow off once the clamps are on. It was a really snug fit to get the barb in to begin with.

Loose the fuel filter.... It's not needed.

Make sure the system is air tight, this way the bellows can expand and do its job like its supposed to.

Rand

will do...does it matter the height then on the bellows??

Yes.

The larger the hose inner diameter and the longer the hose is, this allows for a greater area for air expansion.

This is why I place a female threaded fitting on the outside of the Ford F150 petcock. It allows the use of a 3/8" inner diameter hose which allows for more volume for the air to expand. This also allows a larger inner diameter hole in the petcock so the air can pass into the vent tube without taking the oil with it.

Placing a small inner diameter tube on the inside of the petcock restricts the inner diameter and allows the oil to be pushed up the tube.

Rand

what did you use to put in the rad drain? the copper part?

This is an old thread from last year (look at the date top right corner).
Looks like something he had laying around the shop. Its a hose barb off something.