Hellow everyone. Bought a FL 350, and new to this type of buggy. Just got done, or most the way done with my build of a Yerfdog 3206. Pretty much everything on it is new, or has been upgraded. Buggy on the left. And was a fun project for me, and plenty of headaches as well. That's the kids buggy. The 350 is for me. The GY6 155cc just is small for my taste. But still fun.
So picked the 350 about a month ago. And there is a very large learning curve compared to what I did to the other buggy. #1 2 stroke is a new consept for me. To sum it up, this is what I've found out, doing what research I can.

don't run lean. burn up Engine.
There is mods to be made inside the Engine for better lube. Holes to complete the bridge.
It has a aftermarket spun gas tank. Gravity fed. Plan on taking that off, put on Yerfdog, and go back to stock gas tank, have fuel pump ordered.
It has Works shocks on the back, but not front. And shocks are not cheap.
I am pull starting it right now. Starter not working. Due to oil pushing into the starter it self.
Did a compression test on it. reading between 132-135. Engine has been rebuild. Not by me. And not sure if was done correctly. (Bridge ect...) Previous owner did mode it out. Did have works shocks. Does have extra air intake for the air box.
So there has been work done on it.
Have not done a leak down test on it yet. Plan to. But not sure the easiest way to do that.
Does have after market Reeds in it. Not sure what kind.
Think it does have stock carb. I believe. Think its a 32mm. But do have a set of Jets, that came with the buggy.
I've been told it has a 94c clutch in it.

Plans for it this season is just to have some fun with it. Make sure runs solid. It runs good. But is running rich. Brakes don't work, but have rear pads I still need to put in. Want to set it up for a lower end power. Really don't need High speeds where I ride. (like to pull wheelies with it if possible.) :). This winter will go more into it, and give it a make over.

Just lately, noticed the clutch is not moving as smooth as it did. I've looked at manual. And they do have their own suggested lube to use. Question. What's a good lube to use for the clutchs? (maybe something I can pick up at local auto store)? And cant find this either. Where do I lube the clutchs at? I've read just lube the washers? or something like that? Still don't help me. Would like to know where to lube the front and rear clutch. If they both need it.

Thanks guys.

First -- welcome to the site.
Tremendous amount of info here on this site and all good people so far. The mutts have been run off.
Lots of info here if you use the search box above. Only type in one word (starter) and hit enter then type in another (rebuild) to narrow down your search. That's the best way I have found.
1) Make sure you use good octane fuel (I run avgas) and do a fuel flow test on you fuel pump. I blew up nine engines before I figured this out. You need about 4 oz in 10 sec flow. TRUST ME.
2) Do the leak down test and do it with the intake still on it - just remove the carb.
3) Holes to complete the bridge not sure what you mean here.
4) 94c clutch -- my brother has one and it is flawless. We don't lube it.
5) Driven clutch: I lube ours with Vaseline but others use dry graphite or the comet stuff. I lube the slider area where the little rubber pucks slide and in between the sping on the polished area.
6) Starter not working. Due to oil pushing into the starter it self --- there is a mod that must be done to cure this issue. Use the search box.
7) Brakes are always an issue. They are a pig to bleed. Some guys hang the machine high in the rear so the air migrates to the caliper. I noticed that you must have a good master cylinder or do a rebuild. Also the adjustment on the cam arms for this master cylinder must be done correctly or your brake handle will bottom out before it has really pushed any fluid. Also found that if you pull the levers in and let them snap back a few times you will see an air bubble rise up from the bottom of the res on the master cylinder. This air bubble seemed to give me trouble bleeding. Both my machines have rebuild masters and work good now. If you follow the rear brake line route through the machine you will see that it goes up and over the frame near the Engine. This looks like a trap spot for air. Probably why some guys hang their machines.
8) Jetting -- I have a formula I use but not sure if I want to share. I run my machines lean and use 50/1 oil mix with no issues. Not everyone likes that. We run from 114 feet to 4411 feet above sea level (according to the gps) with no problems. Biggest problem with these machines in my opinion is fuel. Next is cooling, both mine are liquid cooled.
Again welcome to the site.

yea, don't use his formula. he has burnt more pistons then my wife has dinners.

AV gas is not needed and will onlu hurt performance. 32:1 is a good mixture to use. yes you can go leaner but it also hurts permormance.

you need to check the needle and seat in your carb, it may be set up correctly for the gravity tank and then will flood with the pump.

the holes mentioned are for the exhaust bridge on the piston. im not sure the 350 even has one. they are good idea if needed.

Thx. The fuel pump I ordered was a Mikuni Fuel Pump - Single Outlet - Rectangular DF44-227 it rated at 35 (LPH) which i'm guessing is Liters per Hr. if I did the math correctly I'm coming up with 34 onces per liter. times 35 = 1190 onces in a liter/hr. and 3600 secs in hr. devide that out 1190/3600 = .33 onces per sec. or 3.3 onces per 10 secs. (did I do that correctly)? and if I did, then I'm falling short of what you suggested. it's listed as a 350 odyssey replacement. but I'd rather be safe then sorry. that was the highest rated pump I could find at that location. Got a recomended pump to use?

I really hate working on brakes. Had a nightmare with the Yerfdog for about 2 weeks. Not looking forward to start another brake bleeding project on another buggy. Thought at first it was just bad pads. Then opened up the resivor. Completely Dry. Ugggg!!!!!! So not sure what I'm going to get into. Havent even looked at front yet. But hoping that at least if have some back brakes, could get my by for a little bit.

My brother is coming down in 3 weeks, and would love to have it running safely, so we can play with it a little bit. Not sure if that is going to happen at this point. I work full time during week, and long hrs at times. Main time I could work on it is on the weekends. And even that could be limited since have family of 4.

I don't want to jump into it quick, and blow the Engine, or mess stuff up. With compression test I got, I'm guessing the Engine is sound so far. But as posted, still need to do a leak down test. I do have a hand pump, or a brake bleeding hand pump. I've been told that can be used. got any suggested good way to do the test.? as you said, leave intake on. I've never done one before, and post I've seen, gets confusing on how to seal everything, and what to seal, to get a good leak down test. But sounds like, I will need to learn. :).

It's running off gravity fed tank right now. And sounds like the fuel pump I ordered is to small. I've actually taken it out once, for maybe total of 30 mins. With stops inbetween. Ran OK, with current fuel setup, until got to WOT (Wide Open Throttle). Then would die. Was suggested I do a compression test right away. So I did. Results came back good. So leads me to believe its a fuel issue.
That being said, Ive had a Choke sticking issue. I finally got the choke out of the carb. with some heat, and tapping. But the plunger was rough, and so was inside of the wall of the choke. I'm not sure, but sometimes it acts like the choke still gets stuck sometimes. But this is all based it running in Neutral. Plan on getting some fine sand paper, and dremel. And smoothing things out.

and just noticed in last few days, even thou, front tires are labeled the same size. 21x7x10 I believe, they are not. passenger side is smaller. by about 2 inches. exsplains why it pulls hard to one side I think. Is there an issue to tearing anything up with the 2 different size tires? don't have to money to combat that right away.
think that is all.
Guess the last question is, what stuff should I be more conserned with first? Or which issues should I tackle, first in the thought of keep down any dmg to Engine or buggy down. Leak down 1st priority? fuel?

I'm using 32:1 mix.

I've heard the needle seat needs to be checked also if using gravity fed. But havent found what I need to look for. I thought at one point, someone said it was the size. But again, not for sure. But if can get away with using the gravity safely for the time being. Would save me some time.

if its dying I would not even start it until I get the issue figured out.

the gravity feed is not a good idea.

I am in the big city right now and don't have access to my computer but when I get home will post the fuel pump we run. With regards to the comment above on my jetting I can say that I have never lost an Engine due to jetting. It was always due to a weak pump or the fuel. Both my machines have run flawlessly since fixing these two issues. Also avgas does not hurt performance, I call bullshit ----- show me.

I agree.

Just got home from the big city.
The pump we run is a Polaris #3085275.
I run this pump because there is a Polaris dealer near me and it put out the 4.5 oz in 10 sec.
The fl350 manual I believe does not list the flow rate required but the pilot manual does.
That's where we get the numbers from.
If you are close to this number you should be fine.

Re the Fuel Pump

As ChrisV said sort out the Fuel problem before a Poof ker bang

Stay with a stock Size pump

The DF44-227 is perfect as it is the closest to Stock
Oh get the original Mikuni not a knock off the copies are cheap.

But you will need to set up a Tee piece to drain excess fuel as per manual

This can also be done using a tee piece and a large main jet to bleed off excess fuel
back in to the tanks

The Fuel check valves I think are still available

http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/H ... parts.html

hope this helps

yeoddy

Thx for all the input. The person before me, had put some modes into it. But other things that I thought would be done, wasn't. Such as drilling hole in dipstick to keep oil out of starter. But makes me wonder if he didnt have more than one. And when selling it, turn over much back to stock. I would think if he did have the gravity fed setup, that at one point he had it running good. But maybe that's why he decided to get rid of it, he couldnt figure it out.????

That being said, I do want to go back to stock gas tank, and setup with fuel pump. The way he has it setup, is little different. There is a line from center bottom of tank. That's the only line, that goes into the carb. There is 2 lines from the spun tank, and 2 lines coming from stock tank. There is a fuel pump. don't know if it works, just went ahead and got a new one. one line from each of the tanks, goes into the other tank. One line from each of the tanks, goes into the fuel pump. And the fuel pump is hooked up to the Engine below. Some kind of duel tank setup?

Would like to go up in carb. over the stock 32mm. maybe 34 or36. But for right now, from what I understand, the stock 32mm can be jetted correctly and make it run good. From the # on carb. I'm just guessing it's the stock 32mm.

How do I know if it's a knock off Mikuni? I ordered it from Amazon. And had good reviews.

How can I fix the issues, if I cant start it?? :) I know what your saying. At an idle, the carb spits gas out of the front. I thought for while, is was the stuck choke. And it did make a difference when I did get the choke unstuck. But still spits gas at idle, or low RPM. But at higher RPM, that goes away. But from what I'm understanding, could be the gravity feed setup??? Not letting the extra gas exit correctly? So what your suggesting is that, get the fuel pump, and gas tank setup back into correct formation, then see how she runs?

I forgot to ask. Big issue for me. I've seen modes to get rid air box. And moded air box. I've read that the air box needs to stay, because of the pulse system.??? 2 part question. is there better performance in keeping the air box?? 2nd.. will it hurt the Engine any if you get rid of the air box?? I cant stand that thing. Seems like all the work I do, is in that area, and that thing is a pain to hookup and disconnect. Plus just looking at the setup, with the air box, I belive it causes a air flow, and heating issue. From the looks of it, if you go with a more simple intake, and get rid of the box, airflow over and threw the heads would be much better.

First up Pumps
see pics

You could remove the tank and put it back to stock

If you do a lot of long rides the top tank could be set up as a Axillary.
I have my plumbed up so I turn the top tank tap on and it fills the main tank it gives me double
the ride distance

But for now remove the tank and set it up as per pic
get it running right then add bits.

Get a new pump chase down a fuel check valve and check it works as per the diagram.
New fuel line and filter.

Strip and service carb. NOTE makes note of the settings a little fine tuning may be needed
after a carb strip and clean.

the PE 32 is a good carb it all depends on what sort of riding you do.

Not sure on the fuel spitting thing but I have never ran mine without the filter setup

The air box is there for a reason search for dual air intakes and run a good filter and keep it well
oiled and have a spare ready to go.

The air flow is pretty good, But then again I do run a axillary fan as it gets a little warm in OZ

hope that helps

yeoddy

Thanks. Well as long as I'm sent what the pic shows on amazon. I should be good. (if)

Little more info. I understand that the air box, is the best protecter from all types of dirt and water. And with the way the carb is setup, would be easy for water to make its way into the carb. I don't go to the dunes. I have private grounds I drive on. Just mainly dirt and pasture. And when riding, would be decent weather. But if deside to play in heavy snow, mud, wet conditions, understand that the air box setup, would be better. But for normal driving, on normal days, would like to get rid of the airbox, if it WONT HURT THE Engine. And with Kansas weather, it can be very hot and humid. So think added air flow, would help greatly. I'm a fan of the UNI duel filter systems.

Thx for the diagram BTW. Guess will need to order another part.

oh... something that I found odd. The fuel lines that is run on this setup right now is huge. got to be 1/2 or so. along with the fuel filter. So wondering if he was having issues with his current setup.
Is 1/4 fuel lines big enough for the fuel pump setup? or should I go up a size up?

one other question. is there a difference in fuel filters for 2 stroke vs 4 stroke? I read if get the wrong one, the oil can be filtered out of the gas. Is this correct?
Thx.

As Wyeeoddy mentioned loose that fuel contraption and go back to stock. It's going to cause nothing but headaches.

If you are going to run the stock setup then the required fuel line size is 3/16". The size of the line from the pulse tube on the bottom end to the fuel pump is 1/4".




Air box needed or not?

I have 2 Ody's and run an air box on one and the other a triple wrapped K&N setup.

Loosing the air box will effect the bottom end performance of the Ody. You will get a slight loss of power but nothing drastic. If you riding in tight areas where torque is your best friend then keep the air box.

If you are riding wide open areas then a pod filter is just fine..... Just go with a triple wrapped system. Double wrapped with an open pod just isn't enough protection.

Rand

The box is molded for the duel air intake setup. It has brand new kandn filter in it when got it. I prefer uni. But still good filter. I don't make long runs. Got a few normal tracks we take with buggy. Maybe few mins long. Might take 2 three laps at time. So running time is around 10 mins at a time. Did come with full set of paddle tires. Front and back. So he did do sand running. Or maybe went to the dunes. Maybe why the 2 gas tank setup.
The air box does have a hole in back where it burned on the exhaust. Guessing that needs fixed for it to work correctly?
I do plan on going back to stock setup. Got a feeling that the gas issues I'm having is due to its current setup. Will order the 3 way value today. And some new fuel lines and filters. But doubt will be here by the weekend.
I do want the low end power. So looks like the box stays. :(
Thx

Unless you triple wrap the K&N, loose it and go with the UNI dual filter. K&N filters on their own do little to nothing to stop the flow of fine dust into an Engine.

And in order to get the box to work correctly you need to fix the hole.

Rand

Guess you'll half to explain the triple wrap.. what am I wrapping it with. And how? If I need to buy some new filter fabric, then guess will just buy a uni. My to buy list keeps going up, and haven't even got the fuel issue taken care of yet. :).

I know when I bought it, its a pricey toy to have compared to the yerfdog and gy6. But there is night and day difference in power and performance.

You seem to be real hung up on the filter thing.
What he means by triple wrap is he is wrapping his filter with filter socks. You can buy them.
Lets face it, Honda got it right with the air box when it comes to filtering but if it is a pain in the arse for you and you want more air you can run something else. My brother and I use a K&N filter but I use a pair of my old socks and a womens nylon to cover that. The K&N is nothing but a fly screen anyways. It seems to work well enough for me but maybe not you. Your choice it's your machine.
In my opinion you MUST get that fuel thing under control first, screw everything else. Then run GOOD fuel. Read the manual on the min/max octane rating you can run (Go with the max).
If some idiot yells "Take that hill men" you better tell him "We're behind you all the way sir".
Every man for himself.

K&N makes what they call a pre-charger that fits over the top of the K&N filter body. It's just like the outside coarse filter of the UNI filter. Over that I have K&N's Dry Charger which is a fine weave polyester wrap, thus a triple wrapped filter.

If you are going to keep the filter box then buy the UNI.

Rand

Well I don't know if I'm hung up on the filter thing. Just trying to get it right the first time. My previous YD project I learned a lot. Tons more than expected to on buggy, gy6's cvt's and carbs. Actually took up a side hobby in cleaning carbs for smaller engines. Mowers bikes scotters 4 wheelers ect... one of the main things I've learned, is absorb any info you can. Note it. And ask more questions. I could have saved a lot of money. And 4 x's that in time if I had multi options given. Well, correct that. There was many options out there. But would go with the first given. Or first I found. Later figured out there is multi ways, and options. Depend on what you have and what you looking for. Don't know how many times I corrected an issue more than once. And bought wrong parts. Manuals give the basics. But not updates. Trying to avoid that much as I can, this go around. And save money. :)
And if there is kits out there made for what you have and want. Pay the extra $$. Not worth the time and labor trying to do it yourself to save maybe $20 or$40. (In many cases).

I do use good oil and non ethanol gas.
BTW. It really does not state. I use 104 boost treatment to get octane lvl up in other buggy. Is that OK to use in 2 strokes as well?

Think will just get an uni.

Fuel is top priority now. But will be waiting on parts for little bit. Guess can start on the brakes.. :( I hate working on brakes. If there was a shop around here that I know could do the job. It would go there.
Thx

104 Octane boost is basically snake oil, it doesn't boost gas up to 104 octane.

I run 91 octane with 10% ethanol in it and have no issues what so ever.

Rand

I agree with Randman on the octane booster. When I was still racing sports cars I went to a seminar about oils, fuels etc. Basically octane booster is just magnesium and other snake oil. It does virtually nothing according the Red Line oil rep. I am pretty sure that's close to what he said. At best it would bring it up one or two points if I remember correctly.

Still waiting for ChrisV to explain to me how avgas hurts performance (per his comments above).

The air filter is a personal preference Thing

The Honda Stock Filter is great but oiled up it is like trying to suck a beer through a knotted
straw.

I have 4 Uni filters setup and also run a hair net as a extra pre filter. Uni filters breath better.

I personal have never run the K&N they are also a good filter if setup the right way as per Randman info