FL350 owners....at one time, someone in the buggy community was selling the steel-braided brake line kits for the FL350R. They were charging $155 + s/h for the front set, and $50 + s/h for the rear, or, about $200 + s/h for both.

Well guess what?

Out of my own necessity once again, I've put the pieces of the puzzle together and can get the entire kit myself for $115.00 + $5.70 shipping, but we'll call it $120.00 shipped to PO.com members only, with good name brand parts and not the no-name-evilBay crap. This is 3000psi+ rated aluminum tee and SS braided lines & fittings. This is not a group buy - the price is the price unless the part or shipping prices fluctuate. This is for both front and rear lines, and includes...

> All professional-grade race fittings, chrome or polished (no cute/colorful stuff)
> Front left SS line w/ chrome 45-deg banjo end
> Front right SS line w/ chrome 45-deg banjo end
> Line tee
> Front master cylinder line (to tee)
> Rear line with chrome straight banjo end
> Rear frame clip
> zip ties (for tee & line, if you choose to use them)

You can re-use the factory j-arm brake line stays & rubber bushings, and the rear fitting will clip onto the frame just like the factory rubber line. Lines are slightly longer than the stock rubber lines simply to make instal easier. For the front j-arm rubber bushing stays, I think I've got some radiator line I can throw in so the braided lines aren't flopping around.

If you want, you can opt to use the stock master cylinder hard line, but the price is the same since the change in parts would simply even out the cost.

Target price will be $120.00 shipped to US48 & Canada. EvilBay price will be +$30 to cover fees and "non-loyalty-penalties".



Stay tuned! Will post in the 'For Sale' section in the next couple of days once I've got all the parts fit & confirmed.


-D$

Count De Money.....Ha Ha (guess the movie!)

Are you going to offer this for the front only?

I already have done the rear.

Rand

The front-only would be $90 + s/h, and the rear-only is $30 + s/h. Either kit, it would be $5.70 shipping.

Thank you sir, I will more than likely be picking up a kit from you for the front.

Rand

"non-loyalty-penalties" LMAO

Who will be the first evilbay mutt to buy kits from you then pimp on evilbay for profit?

Sound almost too good to be true THANKS! You need to get a Pilot and see what you can do it too.

I've already got a FL350 brake line kit listed on evilBay. If someone buys it non-ebay, replicates it, and then tries to pimp it out on eBay, they'll have to beat the price I've already set PLUS EBAY & PAYPAL RAPE FEES, which means they will take a loss in the shorts or else break dead even! lol Ebay prices are for the lazy people who would rather pay someone to figure crap out, source it all, and send it to them on a silver platter all through a couple of websites which give them the warm & cozy feeling they aren't being ripped off (i.e. ebay and paypal). To buy the pieces from Summit/Jegs/MSC, etc...there is shipping + tax, too. Or they can cheapen it out with China crap if they want. I'm making diddly-squat per brake line kit (hey, I'm not a charity but I'm also not a thief), but if someone wants to measure it all out and buy $180 of parts for trial & error fit-try like I did....they can. I'd have to sell like 30-40 kits to even brake even from the "R&D costs", but that's never going to happen. In other words...no one, NO ONE is going to get rich on this stuff! LOL!!!

And...I would love to own a Pilot! I would need to sell a couple buggies and maybe a suzuki to afford it though. Actually, if I just honed down the hobbies to only one or two, I would own one. But I like my hobbies.

Well I hope your making money off the stuff your selling I would not want anybody to be giving it away hopefully nobody will take advantage of your hard work time will tell, their are a lot of losers chanting capitalism out their just waiting to show us how they are smarter than we are

Thanks for another great product.

Like I said, I'm no charity. lol

I'd rather make $'s off the masses on evilBay -- not the PO.com'ers.

So here's the list so far with non-eBay prices...

>> Front steel-braided kit...$90 + s/h

>> Rear steel braided kit...$30 + s/h

>> Steel-braided line & fittings to replace the long hard line...$57.50 + s/h


>> Full kit of all the above...$175 + s/h



Took my #1 Oddy for a ride today, and my front drum brake adjusting didn't do squat. In fact, its worse! I need to get moving to better parts and more adjustments. I need to get these new lines on my rig!

whats the difference between these..shouldn't a rear kit be exactly that

The "Rear Kit" for $30 replaces just the rubber line in the rear. Its 4 pieces.

The long hard line is the long steel line that runs from the master all the way back to the rear. If they made a line long enough, I could make the rear a "one line" setup. But they only make one long enough to only replace the hard line -- not the hard line and the little rubber guy.

With the plans I have for the line-lock brake, it would break up the distance, and hence, you would have a line from master to line-lock, line-lock to caliper. No more little guy in the back.

Got around to installing the front steel braided lines tonight. It's a breeze, man! And the difference before vs after is NIGHT & DAY. The new lines bled easy, too. I used a small wrench, small bucket, piece of clear hose, dot3 from NAPA, and my own lungs (suction) to bleed. Used some 1/4" heater hose as a pad where the steel hose touched the frame or any sharp edges. I'm uber impressed.

You know, it could be the hardware, but it has to be attributed a little bit to getting all the old fluid out and getting a really good bleed. I bled the short side first, then the long side. Open the short side bleed screw, pull the brake handle, and suck the air out of the line. Eventually you can just suck some pressure and then tip the tu e up and let the bubbles rise out while holding the lever firm. Then when she's close with just tiny bubbles, I did half pulls on the lever until the bubbles were gone, and closed the screw. Then went AMD checked the short side to make sure no air trapped on that side. Dunzo. Have a beer nearby to wash away any residual dot3 from your gums.

Some pics...can't really aww all the beautiful steel lines, but they're there.

Looking forward to road testing tomorrow after the rear conversion is bled & done!!!!

Couple more pics of the front. I tried a different hose-to-j-arm attachment method on each side. Mainly because the right-foot lower j-arm has a snapped bolt in the brake hose tie-down, and so I had to do something different than what I'd already done on the other side. And I figured I could demonstrate two different ways to skin the cat. I think I'll settle for a combo of both -- piece of radiator hose + both stock brake line clamps.

The right-foot side brake line shown is 2" longer than the one in the kit. I couldn't wait any longer, so I just installed the longer one I had.

I also cleaned out the banjo bolts really good with some good ol' Brake Kleen. Both bolts had this plaque / build-up crap on the lower section.


Sheesh...my buggy needs a bath! Plus, its always funny how fast the shop gets messy when you're in there working on something. I really only needed 4 wrenches, but I've got 16 of them out. FYI...flare nut wrenches are a God-send.

Also figured out why I have a little more camber on the left-foot side: the lower ball joint castle nut needs to thread on another 1/4". The slack is allowing the lower side of the knuckle to slide out. I hope the ball joint threads aren't toast from it bouncing around. You can actually see the gap as well as the PB-Blaster-soaked nut in the 4th and 7th pic (from top).

Tell you what, clean brake fluid is a great solution for getting grease off your hands!

Rear brake update will be up later.

Got the rear steel-braided line on and it totally makes a big difference. Again...I can't say for a fact the lines are magically better, but they bleed easy. Having brakes is nice.

Still have that sticky rear brake hand lever. Not sure if it's the shaft in the steering wheel or the cable. I added a helper sprung to assist the return.

D$, denuch had a problem with his one 350 on the rear caliper hanging up. So much so that the fluid would boil! We finally figured out that the plunger in the master was sticking and kept constant pressure to the rear... Once the master was rebuilt the problem went away. I hope this helps!

Randy

Thanks! Yep, a rebuild of the master is in order for the future. For now, I'm using the helper-spring and also kicking the lever back with my hand after I use the brake. Its a pain, but it gets me by. Need to get the "enjoyment vs. wrenching ratio" back above 1.0 before I tear it apart again. ;)

I've discovered a potential challenge with this setup.

The front brake portion of the kit is fine so as long as you're replacing everything back to the master.

The rear brake portion...which is simply with only an adapter, line, and banjo fitting. The flare on the Honda long steel brake line is a male double-flare. The adapter fitting in the kit I put together has a female bubble flare. They are not really compatible.

Personally, I have not had any issue with the conflicting flares. I have the rear kit on my own #1 buggy with no leaks, good pressure, and I can get the flare nut & tube nice & tight. I also assembled the conflicting flares on the bench, rigged up a vacuum check, and the parts sealed.

The simplest way to avoid the "flare up" all together is to simply replace the entire stock brake line group with aftermarket steel-braided line. Therefore, I will be removing/revising my current FL350R kit from evilBay and will be listing the revised holistic kit. I may no longer offer the option to connect the kit to any stock hard brake lines -or- I am working on a different/correct fitting for mating to the stock line. Stay tuned...

Peace, love, and buggies...


Dan A.

Many thanks to Crackwarrior for some intellectual exchange on the FL350R brake line kit. He noticed the alignment of the banjo bolt flow hole is not as good with the kit's banjos as with the stock banjos. And if you look at the pic, the inner groove of the stock banjo is much bigger than the ones I'm using. He found another Honda banjo that puts everything into perfect alignment (see p/n below).

I've never had any complaints about it, plus mine works fine and moves plenty of fluid. But I will always strive for continuous improvement!

Here is the link to the other banjo bolt. They're currently $4.76 ea: http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/honda/HP-90145-MS9-612.html


These are on evilBay right now for $6.99/pair with new washers:



Thanks for your help, Colt (aka: crackerwarrior)!!!


-D$

Just put your kit on my spare oddy rebuild. Looks awesome. We haven't bled the brakes yet.
Will be doing a ride report this summer on it and I think I may buy another kit from you for my brothers machine. THX for supplying badly needed parts.

Lol thanks for the credit just seen this.. be careful of the washer thickness as well those thin silver ones you gave me were perfect.
Those brass ones could be to thick and cause the same problem.
Im enjoying my nice smooth brakes just gotta get em adjusted to my perfection lmao
thanks again for the highly recommend upgrade!!!

The slack in the lines at the spindles....might want to pull some in or otherwise route 'em so you don't hook the line on a branch/stump/rock. Just leave enough for full lock and full bump. What did you use in the old brake line stay to fit the SS line? Make sure it can't slip even more slack. That loop hanging down is just asking to be snagged unless its an optical-illusion / camera-angle thing.

The brakes firm up?
What did the old fluid look like when you bled the new parts?

Also make sure you check the drum brake shoes & adjustment as well as the brake hand lever adjustments to make sure you're getting all line pressure & brake power she has to offer.

Looks great! Hope your brakes improved. The best part about going fast is being able to stop!

D$ are you still making these kits for the FL350?

PM him. Then you know he got the message. He may miss this post.
Click on the members tab in top right corner and find his name. Click on it. There will be a PM button.