I've been trying to find some posts on this subject but not had much luck. I just got my frame back from the powdercoaters, and the Engine back from randy's odyssey salvage. I decided that I wanted to polish up the transmission to a smooth shine but I cannot get the driven clutch off. I've drilled out the 3 holes and inserted bolts with a puller and impact. It just wants to bend the bolts and I'm afraid they'll pop off right into my face. I've oiled it, put a little heat from a propane torch to it and no luck. Is there a way that it can be pressed off by a machine of some sort. I see it has some rivets on the outside possibly so I thought about popping those out to see if it helps. This truly is a nightmare clutch, the spring is ruined now from the heat and the outside sheave is bent.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. I've got a lot of ideas for the odyssey that I've never seen before. When done, I'll submit pics. Thanks

This help?

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=1512

Bill Keefe is the pro at removing these.

I'll refer you to this post: viewtopic.php?f=4&t=2096

The above post refers to a 250 driven removal, but can be applied to a 350 driven keeping in mind the clutch orientation is reversed on the 350. I've also heard of people pounding the 350 clutch off with an air hammer, but I don't think doing it that way would be very good for the bearings inside the transmission.

Thanks Hoser and Bill, I knew those postings were on here somewhere. I've been fighting that clutch all day, soaking/wrenching, still no luck. I think tommorrow I will see if I can find some shop that can somehow press it off. If they were able to get on the underside of the clutch sheaves and put their press on the shaft, I'm sure It would come off. I have another used clutch from odyssey salvage ready to go on. Ody's coming together pretty good otherwise though. Randy talked me into a lot more performance than I intended at first. Sure can't wait to ride! Thanks

Thanks Hoser and Bill, I knew those postings were on here somewhere. I've been fighting that clutch all day, soaking/wrenching, still no luck. I think tommorrow I will see if I can find some shop that can somehow press it off. If they were able to get on the underside of the clutch sheaves and put their press on the shaft, I'm sure It would come off. I have another used clutch from odyssey salvage ready to go on. Ody's coming together pretty good otherwise though. Randy talked me into a lot more performance than I intended at first. Sure can't wait to ride! Thanks

Here's what I made to pull the driven clutch off my 350 Ody after 3 days of wrestling with the #*+@%^! thing. Tap threads into the 3 holes on the clutch boss face,then fit the puller & bolt it up. Around the collar are a series of holes to take some self tapping screws into the boss curved side for added purchase/load sharing. Screw in center bolt while tapping gently on bolt head.Use lots of spray & heat.
PS. The dodgey welding was due to puller also being used as abstract art lounge ornament Shocked Would you believe earthquake! Smile Ba

Okay guys, I've had it with that clutch. My plan did not work to hook up under the clutch and down to the bottom of a hydraulic jack. That 2 ton jack will not press it off, not from me. The pics of the puller above will not work either, I've already stripped the nuts off the bolts that poke through the clutch. The bolt just pulled right through the nuts. Anyway, my last ditch effort to solve this before going crazy on it...
Can I take apart the transmission with the clutch attached and will the cases come off of the shaft from the other side? If so, I could just take the shaft with clutch installed to a shop and they can press it off easily. They can't do it with the whole transmission attached. I have a manual but wanted to ask you all. Its the only thing holding me up and I'd appreciate your comments on this. Looks like if I go this route and take it all apart, I might as well rebuild it. Any comments on that too would be great. Thanks

Have you made up a puller as per my pic? I don't understand when you say you have stripped the nuts off the bolts that poke thru the clutch.??? there are no nuts or bolts poking tru the clutch. Some pics of what you have done would be helpful. The puller needs to be made out of thick plate and the round collar needs to be self tapped to the curved edge of the boss of the driven clutch. I used about 8-10 self tappers thru the puller edge collar into the round boss of the clutch. As well you tap the 3 existing holes on the face of clutch. When i made mine and started to use it, it still took me 20-25 mins to get it off. The trick is to tighten up the 3 face bolts evenly,then tighten the 8-10 self tappers, then tighten the center puller bolt,then tap it firmly a few times,then tighten up again,ten tap etc. Mine only moved a" Poofteenth "at a time, but at least it came off eventually. I am confidant of this working. I wish you were in Perth and i would be right over to get it off. If all else fails i can post you my puller if you want. Cheers Baz

If you could post a few current pictures of the trans and clutch/input shaft then we could see what's left and maybe offer up some suggestions from that.

here are the pics:

That puller looks like it is leaned over. It won't work properly when leaning like that. See how the washer heads are angled on the uphill section of the puller hub? Whenever possible I use pullers like that one inverted from the orientation you have there. Just unscrew it from the threaded shaft and flip it over and reinstall it. The other side of the puller is flat allowing the bolts to pull from the flat surface instead of angled as you have it there. You could probably put new bolts on the puller and put it back under tension and eventually the clutch it will come off, the question is when, and how long. Are you using an impact gun to tighten it? That makes a big difference over hand tightening. The impact helps to jar things loose. Since the clutch is already damaged and you have a spare ready to go you would not be out much by cutting it off of there. I would reset the puller and try it one more time, then I would cut it off if the puller did not work. Cutting is not the usually best option but will solve the problem quickly. I can't really tell if the movable face is damaged, but it may still be salvagable and a few other peices of the clutch as well, but the fixed face is toast for sure.

I see what looks like a spare driven in the back ground if you need another driven look up sledpartsguy on evilbay I bought a 90D driven Comet from him he was lowest price and only charged like 8 bux for shipping.


http://stores.ebay.com/Sledpartsguy-Super-Store

Yeah, I have 1 spare drive clutch that Randy at odyssey salvage gave me with my new motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )). He sold me the driven for $50. Had to have it, but I hope to upgrade to the 102c soon. BTW thanks for resizing those pics. I sent to Bill at the same time and he posted them for me so thanks to him as well.
Bill, I"m going to try turning that puller the opposite of what I had it like you suggested and also use the next size larger bolts with 2 nuts on the end. I think if I take the propane torch and switch between heating it and using the impact, all that together might do the trick.

Yeah, keep cranking on it. At some point under enough tension that flange with the rivets where the bolts go through will crack and break off of there if the clutch does not break free first. If that happens then it will be to time to begin the cutting process. If it breaks just grind it down enough to slide the rest of the clutch parts off and remember to start the first cut above the keyway as I described in the other post. Do you have a 4 1/2" angle grinder?

I would of long since had the wiz wheel hacking away

yep, got a 4.5" angle grinder, air powered cuttoff wheel, and a dotco (I guess that's what you call it). I can kind of see now how the clutch parts would slide off if the fixed face was cut off or popped off from the pressure and ground down a bit. When you say to cut it off, would you try to cut all the way up the key shaft and sort of split it or maybe cut it again on the opposite side and split it into two halves?. Or do you have cut it and then keep grinding at it? Thanks again.

Actually I'm glad I quit working on it till I got more advice. No telling what could've happened out of anger.

Once the flange cracks or breaks away from the fixed face shaft there will be a rough knurled area where the flange was attached. Just sand it down (if necessary) to the same diameter as the smooth section that the movable face slides on. Otherwise that knurled area might damage the bushing inside the movable face. Then the movable face, spring, and cam will slide right off and then there should be a snap ring and a small woodruff key for the cam still attached to the shaft. Remove them also (the small woodruff key may just fall out when the cam is removed).

Spin the input shaft around to where the key way that indexes the fixed face to the input shaft is topside and make your first cut down the shaft directly above the key. (I'm talking about the big keyway in between the input shaft and the fixed face shaft, not the small woodruff key for the cam). Cut all the way through this side so the keyway is exposed completely. This way when you break through the fixed face shaft, you will only damage the key itself if you are sanding aggressively. Use a rough grit (like 40 or 26 grit) sanding flap wheel on your 4 1/2" grinder and sand until you have split the shaft from top to bottom. If you stick the tranny in gear it will help keep the shaft from free spinning when you are trying to get the cut started, and clamp something to output shaft also if necessary. Be careful not to damage the transmission case when near the bottom of the shaft. You can duck tape a piece of sheet metal or whatever in that area to help protect the tranny case. Then spin it 180 degrees and cut the opposite side of the shaft the same way except you don't have to sand all the way through that side. You will have a good feel for it after doing the first cut. Just sand it until it is paper thin, the metal will start turning blue when it gets thin and is about to break through so you will know to be careful sanding at that point. Once it gets thin enough the two halves will fall right off tranny input shaft when hit with a hammer and punch. If you do it right there won't even be a scratch on the input shaft, just be careful and it take your time. The most important thing is not to damage the input shaft. Once that is all done clean up the input shaft so the new clutch slides on and off easily and put some anti-seize on it before final installation. If Honda would have used 2 cents worth of anti-seize when originally assembled you wouldn't be having this headache right now.

Found this pic going through some old pics.

That's looks like the no-messing around "get her done" approach to removing one. There's a lot of cutting doing it that way also. I've done it that way before, but refined my approach since then and I try to salvage what I can. Those clutch pieces are expensive when you price them out.

Wow that would be a lot of cutting. That trans shaft looks pretty bad too.
BTW I've gotten my clutch to come up about 1-1/2" to 2". Been heating the shaft with propane torch for about 5 minutes, then torque wrench. Its got grade 8 head bolts on the puller so those should take the stress. See I thought once I got that sucker broke free, it would just come right off. But it just as stubborn now as it were before. And now I can see were my puller threads are starting to strip. We'll see how it goes. I'll keep up to date. Thanks.

If you got it to move that's over half the battle. Spray some PB Blaster in there and see if it will seep all the way through. If so I would not heat it anymore and just hosing it with PB and keep loosening and tightening the puller. If it's moving it will come on off of there.

noskwik pics:

GOOD MORING BILL

OMO

Good morning also. It's almost good afternoon here. 11:45 AM. Dunno why the website clock is off a little bit.