THANK YOU!!! You guys are great, thanks for all the feedback...

Last night i worked on the electrical issue that prevented my FL350 front starting and boy was that fun... Found 4 problems ficed 2 of them

1 - The start button on the steering wheel was not working properly. lots of corrosion.
Question - Any good button options without paying out the noise for a whole new steering wheel with a good button?

2 - The transmission "change switch" was not hooked up, it was broken, i grounded both wires (as post on this forum told me too) problem solved
Question - will this allow the "start" button to work even when running and in gear now?

3- The starter solenoid is toast. Once i got all the wiring working and i used the button to start it the solenoid33 stuck open and wouldn't shut off. Looks like i need a new one

4 - The battery drains 100% dead after the stuck open solenoid drained it... my batter charger was unsuccessfully in recharging it. New battery time, whoo hoo

This gauge looks amazing for the price... soo cheap i almost bought one right of the bat! But ill wait until after i get my fl350 running and will most likely add one for sure.

Sometimes when a battery is too low a charger won't recognize it. Hook up another battery to it and try to charge it. Works for me most of the time.
Both battery positives hooked up to the charger positive and both battery negatives to charger negative. Also may try disassembling the seloniod on the starter,many times a good cleaning will help.

1.) The starter button can be dismantled and cleaned with some fine grit sand paper. Be extremely careful and don't loose the spring!

2.) YES! DANGER! It also disables the rev limiter for your reverse gear so the Ody will go just as fast in reverse as it did in forward!

Rand

I see there is one question you asked but we did not answer.
You said: When I pull out on the top of the front wheels I get about 1/4 of play not sure where it coming from.
That play is coming from the front (top) "J" arm bushings. They are worn out and it is a common problem with the FL350. I believe speedchaser makes bushings for us but not sure if he has any in stock right now. PM him. It would be one of the last things to do anyways. Your gona be busy.
Here is the link to speedchaser's site on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/182401775120?ss ... 1555.l2649

Also you asked about rebuilding the clutch. Go back and re-read the answers in the thread.

Thanks for the answer about the j arms, i suspected but was looking for confirmation.

Another question about the brakes, it looks like the lines have been dry for some time now, im going to get started on the master cyclinder first and repair whatever is broken at that point. How resisant are the wheel cylinders and brake calipers to failure?

If it was me I would pull everything apart and clean it. Just my opinion.
If you have to rebuild the rear caliper be advised that you can't get the dust seal anymore. But it doesn't matter because I have run mine without the dust seal with no issues. You can still get the main seal ring and the small o-ring.
Main seal for rear caliper Part: #45215-533-004
Cups for front brake cylinders should be common from Honda. I have not had to replace any yet.

Another update

Tonight i was able to resolve all my left over wiring/electrical issues. Today was a win

Work

- Got the starter solenoid cleaned out and and now my starter button is up an working like a charm!!

- The ignition switch had a dead spot that would cut the ignition sometimes even when on, fixed that with some electronic cleaner Yeah!

- I also resolved a wiring issue with the lights now they work high and low beams!

- Tested the alternator/generator (good)

- Tested the CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) (good)

- Tested the coil/plug (not good)

This think had to have sat in someones barn for at least a few years...

Questions

Im leaking oil between the pull start cover and the Engine... Im guessing that's a bad crack seal? thoughts?

More than likely -- Yes.
Pressure/vacuum test will confirm bad seal but it could also be the oil migrating over the vent system from the counter balancer area. This actually causes the starter to fill up with oil and cause electrical issues. Just another one of those oddy faults that needs to be corrected by doing the vent mod.
You need to pressure/vacuum test this Engine to be sure which one of those problems it is.

"if it was me I would pull everything apart and clean it"
Good advice here, you will know what you have and avoid unexpected failures. Your machine is over 30 years old and although they were well built to start with, things will fail at a certain point. Also just some good clean fun turning a wrench.

My experience has been it's better to go over everything otherwise u will end up having to constantly replace and fix things,it gives u a fresh starting point where u can spend ur wrenching time on maintance and there by lessening wear and tear in the long run.
Sounds like u got the bones for a great project.

Got a new coil wire, battery and spark plug today. I also pulled off the broken shifter knob. Anyone put any custom shifter knobs on these guys? I found the thred pitch details but im on the lookout for a cool shifter.

Auto parts store, find what you like and buy it. Then get a piece of round stock from the machine shop or steel place. Run a die on one end to fit the new shift knob. Then drill and tap the other end to fit oddy. Done.

Did you pressure test that Engine yet ?? Also 100psi compression is not good. Rebuild.

I found this online and thought it was a good idea. He 3D printed a new shift knob. Just an idea.

Yo - djscoutmaster, where are the pics? We need to see this extravaganza as it unfolds!

Here are pictures from the day i brought her home

that's cool! i have access to a 3D printer... where is the STL print file i can use?

UPDATES

I took of the carb today to strip it, clean it, dunk it. Both jets were pretty clogged. I also took of the batter box to start cleaning and repaint soon.

What i learn today
1. Ive got a 138 main jet ( i live in texas with high heat and 100ft altitude) so ill check my need jet setting and turn my air screw out to the recommended setting based on the honda manual and it should hopefully improve its reliability for starting.
2. The carb must have been replaced or rebuild at one time because the choke is not attached
3. Boot looks ok. Picture attached
4. The previous owner looks to have installed the wrong type of air filter... so its not doing anything... BOO. Will fix somehow

Questions
1. How do i re-attached the choke cable (so i can control it up front)
2. How does my intake boot look.
3. Should i follow the honda manual for all my jet settings, #138 main, 1st grove, 2 turns out?
4.Whats the vent tube i have near the oil inlet... is this the vent mod people talk about?

Nice project

BUT your ? 4

I see there in no Stock tank which looks like NO stock Fuel pump

The PULSE line for the FUEL PUMP looks like it might be attached
to the Breather tube that you call the VENT tube mod

if this is the case DON'T RUN IT AT ALL

I don't know if you have a Manual yet if not get one

The Pulse tube comes from the base of the cylinder / Barrel behind the clutch then it goes to
the pulse side of the fuel pump ( which you might not have )

see pics

B.T Breather Tube
P.L Pulse line

The Breather tube is just a breather which I run up high with a Fine filter attached

Now I could be worry but it is the way it looks

wyeeoddy

I have the gas tank but its a bit rusted inside so i have to clean ot out. It has the stock fuel pump on it too. I don't have the stock t fitting shown in the diagram and the precious owner had it all messed up. More to fix

Questions
1. Where is the best place to get the t fitting? What the oart called
2. How do i trst the furl stock pump

That's good you have the oem Tank and fuel pump.

looks like there is a lot to do on your new toy.
You need a plan

Do you have a Manual if so Read it from front to back

Your fuel tank need to be cleaned out and internal rust removed need to a
tank clean service guy

Strip and clean fuel pump and again in the service manual.
see link
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=9288

But another option is to update the Pump with a Mikuni

But Don't get the "Sh!t copies" out there because there cheap
buy a genuine one
http://www.mikuni.com/c-fuel_pumps.html
the one you want
DF44-211
Outlets: 1
Flow: 14 Liters/Hour

wyeeoddy

I second wyeeoddy comments.
I run a mikuni pump part number #3085275 from a Polaris 500 -- see pic below.
Your fuel pump MUST put out 4.5oz in 10sec approx.
Gas tank must be sent to a rad shop for cleaning and rust coating. When you get it back make sure the screens inside are not plugged or damaged. If they are you may have to tap the drain plug and pull fuel from there. Both my machines are like that now. You need flow.
Throw the stock pump in the trash. It's not worth FN around with. Just my opinion.

CAUTION: If you can see a crack on that intake your done. YOU CAN'T FIX IT -- get a new one. I am not sure where you can buy one. I make my own. If you don't replace it then you are going to blow the Engine guaranteed.

Thanks for all the tips. I have trad through the service manual a few times (but i don't remember it all ) and have a details plan for this fl350.

Step 1 is unhack all the hacks in the rig and get things working as they are sappose to. (It hardly runs with the hack it has on today)
- clean carb (in progress)
- swap battery (done)
- repair all witing and electronics
- spark plug / coil replacment
- repair and preplace original gas tank
- repair brake system ( its dry )
- repair fendors


Step 2 is take if for a spin. If im in love with it, ill either rebuild or replace with a farr offroad rotax 500 kit. If im not a fan ill sell it having made it better for the next guy.

My lift of todos are alot more exstensive and detailed sorry if it seems im also over the place. There is a method to what im doing

I saw someone make one out of billit aluminum. If i could get the cad file i could 3d print one in aluminum.

How do you make your own?