Done

Looking very good. That Engine turbo combo sounds potent.
Keep the posts comin, I'm really enjoying them.

In stock form they produce 70 some odd horsepower. The combo I'm running with 8lbs of boost should be producing about 125hp. This is based on cars with my combo being on a dyno machine. Boost can be bumped up to 10lbs but over that and u need a stand alone fuel controller.
The real plus of being in a buggy is the weight to hp ratio.
I'm glad I'm back at it, it's nice to have something to post.

Looking good! I cant wait to hear how the clutch performs for you now.

And thanks for the link to the (swift, geo, et al) forum!

I pulled off the head on mine this morning. Cleaned up cylinders and noticed the piston that had the low compression also had about 1/8" of slop in its travel up and down. So I pulled out the rest of the Engine block and got the oil pan off of it. I don't want to derail your build thread but I noticed that the (low compression, sloppy) one had a blackened big rod end and crank journal compared to the other 2 and most of that slop is at that rod end/journal.

So I guess my amateur CSI is kinda like this... The little rubber cap at intake at the base of throttle body sprung a coolant leak and I lost a lot of coolant while playing on the dunes. It overheated. white smoked out the exhaust, and I towed it back. I fixed the cap, added coolant and started it but that's when I heard the rod knock that I have now physically found. I don't fully understand the correlation of coolant loss and the rod knock but I assume the rod end was a weak link and the heat just thinned things out enough to make a fail there. I also noticed my oil pickup screen was just laying in the oil pan.

I have always felt like mine is winding up to somewhat unhealthy RPMs for a small car Engine like this. To try to save all this again, I will research clutch mods to lower rpm at speed when I get this back together.

Could have heated up the block enough to expand the oil screen slip fit and there goes the rod.
Once u get in there it comes out pretty easy.
I'm not sure what the operating rpms are on you're Engine. I'm still figuring out clutching. Thought I was getting close then realized I was tuning it while my turbo was damaged so I'm basically going to have to start over.
So where u gonna go from here?
Ps. Heavier weights will bring down you're top rpm but will launch sooner so u would need a,stiffer drive clutch spring. Also moving the position of the driven clutch spring will also adjust rpms a few hundred each way. Up and down.

The oil screen actually looked like a small spot weld let go that was holding it onto the pickup tube. The tube was still well below oil level in the pan but maybe the screen body was blocking the tube suction end or something too. There was metal all in there too so maybe oil pump failure too. I haven't opened that up yet.

The previous owner was a flat out liar and a thief (long story). But he did give me a 7-0644207 clutch puller. It threads into the drive clutch and feels like it is pressing on the crank in there but it will not pop the clutch off. I am soaking everything in penetrant oil tonite with hopes it will release.

I guess I will clean this up take all this to the machine shop next week to see what they say. The neighbor just wrecked his Yamaha R1 last week. Pretty sure the Engine is fine. I might go over there with a tape measure and see what's up. haha

The clutch is a bitch. I did every trick in the book to get mine off the first time. As luck would have it we had a hard freeze here. So what I did was fill the bolt hole with water and threaded a short bolt in.
Was poped off when I got up in the morning. water froze and the expanding ice pushed it off.
Greas the end of the puller and hit it with a impact in short bursts. Don't over do it but have to hit it hard. Then you can tap the end of the puller with some good hard blows.
It will never be this hard to do again

R1 conversion sounds interesting. I'm not a fan of a,clutch. My knees would not like that. Not sure I'd be able to get it all lined up,I just don't think I'm exact enough.

I agree. I am amazed that these engines, all the mounts, etc line up and fit so well together. This buggy is very well designed. I have redesigned a few small things to fit me better etc. but I could have never built this from scratch and had it work so well without looking like a high school shop project.

I rode in an R1 powered full size 2 seater and it really had nice power. Even with the larger frame, 2 occupants, bigger tires, etc. He also had a physically larger FNR box than these have in them. Shifting took a little getting used to but it was awesome..

I can see the fun factor in that for sure.
I like the High school shop class reference. That sums up what I would end up with. I too am good at modifying something that had already been constructed but built from scratch I'm not so sure about doesn't mean I wouldn't try but might not turn out like I think it should.
I think the transmission would hold up good to the power considering the other car was a two seater so it was having to move more mass.
The challenges I see with the R1 is just mounting it and setting up a chain drive. Chain drive would make Engine placement/mounting easier then a belt for sure. I have read some experience chains overheating but I have done no research on it myself.
The bennifits are def the power and not having a belt drive. Also you can easily boost the performance with a dyno jet Engine controller. I ran one of them on my R6 and it was amazing. Could change fuel maps on the fly and with my dynojet wide band controller I could down load all my Engine info to my computer and modify my fuel map. Also had a shift controller that would kill the ignition for mila seconds on up shift for full throttle clutch less up shifting. Shifting out at 9k full throttle the bike would almost hop. You sure don't do it on a banking curve.
Any way I'm interested to see where u go on this.

Picked up a battery today. Went with a AGM 18.0 amp hour battery. Larger then my current battery but can mount it on its side so I should be good.

Got the battery mounted. Mounted it in the nose. Back by the Engine it would just cook. The black material you see is anti fatigue floor mat. I use it for padding and damping vibrations.works great. Battery is nice and secure and the bottom is supported as well.

Battery

Also installed the intake,alternator,starter,valve cover, water pump out put pipe but had to order some injector seals. New injectors didn't have them but there in town and I will pick them up tomorrow.

Picked up all the little things I need to finish the buggy today. Also got my exhaust manifold back and it looks great. He was explaining one part had to be silaca brazed or something like that and another part he had to tig weld.
Save the comments on the manifold welding its self. Looks like crap but has never leaked or cracked so save ur breath.
The v band flanges were welded on to replace my bolt on flanges.

Also installed my injectors and a battery disconnect switch. It's the push and twist type with a removable (key). It fit where my ignition switch was( I moved all my starting functions to my pilot steering wheel some time ago) with just a tad of grinder work. The mounting holes even line up. Went with 4 gauge battery cable. I solder the lugs on and clean with acetone then silacone the area and heat shrink it about an hour later.
I'll post some pics when I'm further along.

Finished up installing my battery. In the rear near the Engine I installed to wire isolators and ran the ground and power cables off of them. They give me a place to connect a battery charger and jumper cables. The battery cables are padded where there wire tied to the frame.
Next step is to replace my clutch weight bushings.
Chugging along

Digging it. Hanging for the ride report. Best of luck.

Thanks i can always use some luck.
Once I do the clutch weights I can install the clutch and do a compression test. I'll be crossing my fingers on that. My compression was reading crazy all over the place and the machine shop thought valve guides were causing that but I need to be sure. I'm guessing I'm a week or so away from starting it but that depends on the weather.

Did everything I could for hurricane prep then installed my clutch bushings.
The bushing diameter is 8mm. A 8mm punch will knock it out nicely. I used an inverted drill bit with a 8mm shank.
I heat the weights for 30 minutes on 250 in the oven. I find the little expansion u get from the heat eases tapping in the new ones.
Very simple to do.

Ready to go

There is no way to say this where I'm not an idiot so I'll just say it.
Drum roll please.


I have the wrong clutch.
How can that be u ask?
Here is the crazy part. I've purchased two used clutches previously as well as bushing kits for each and rebuilt both.
I have a 33mm taper fit on the clutch. I've always asked sellers to make sure the clutches were 33mm.
My new clutch is 33mm. I had the seller check it before I purchased it.
Here is the idiot part. I have a 30mm taper clutch.

That sums up half my issues,in fact I think I may actually be the issue.
Now to explain to the wife why I'm putting everything back in my old clutch.

Edd, sorry but i had to laugh a little when i read this. Sound like a perfect description of the last 20 years of my life. I always find a way to make an easy job hard and a hard job impossible. Take a deep breath and press on, this too shall pass.

You and me both.
The wife said she wasn't shocked, I too have been operating this way for as long as I can recall and learned not to get worked up or frustrated over this stuff.
Thank you for the support it helps

All in all a good day. Reassembled my original clutch,changed my oil and filter and plugged my oil feed line for the turbo.
Time for my compression test.

145/145/150
Needles to say I can be happy with that.

After almost a year though l managed to misplace a banjo bolt for my turbo oil line.
My luck they won't have one in town but I'll take a look tomorrow