Hello all,
As you most already know, works performance shocks has gone out of business. Their former lead service technician has opened his own company "Quality Shocks Service". You can contact him for any of your Works Shocks service needs. Other brands as well.

Phone #: (818) 696-3679

Email: Qualityshocksservice@gmail.com

Cheers,
Curtis

Good info!

Thank you sir.

Quality Shocks Service

Is there a web address for this guy please

wyeeoddy

I would think anyone that does shocks could rebuild and service, give this place a call
http://www.shocktherapyracing.net/

Thanks for the Link

ended up finding a kit on fleebay for $25 US plus shipping

Contacted Qualityshocksservice@gmail.com and he was $55 US plus shipping But I
will contact again to fine out why so much.

wyeeoddy

I called Works about 3 weeks ago and a guy still answers the phone. Even though they closed, seems like he's trying to open back up. He said he can rebuild Works shocks, but he was waiting on the bladders for the remote tanks generally for our rear shocks. He said everything else is in stock minus the bladders. He may have gotten those recently though.

https://www.facebook.com/pg/WorksPerfor ... e_internal

Sorry but this guy is a rip off
Qualityshocksservice@gmail.com
here is my quote
Hi Adrian.
Est for shipping is : $110
2 Seal kit : 110
Or $55 for one seal kit one seal kit is for 1 pair of shocks.
Bladders: $50 for 2

Ended up buying from http://www.schmidtyracing.com
and pricing was 132.00 USD

ATV-SK-WP-1-2R Works Performance AHRMA Shock Seal Kit - 1/2" with Rezzy
1 $26.00 $26.00
SRS-WP-BL- Works Performance Nitrogen Bladder Remote Reservoir
[Select Quantity:1 bladder] 2 $34.00 $68.00

Subtotal: $94.00
Tax: $0.00
Shipping Cost: $38.00
Grand Total: $132.00

wyeeoddy

So you bought one rebuild kit and two bladders from https://www.schmidtyracing.com/works-pe ... s/1889.htm

I think folks would need to buy 4 kits and 2 bladders for a full front and rear rebuild - right?

Im contemplating doing this myself but I'm not sure where I can find a 250+psi nitrogen source.

I got this with the 1/2 shaft
https://www.schmidtyracing.com/product- ... k-wpsb.htm


This Kit will do 2 shocks or a pair of shocks as per pic and the write up
ATV-SK-WP-1-2R Works Performance AHRMA Shock Seal Kit - 1/2" with Rezzy @ $26.00



wyeeoddy

ZeroClient

Any suspension shop should be able to help

wyeeoddy

Understood now.

So in order to rebuild all front and rear Works shocks, I would need to buy 2 rebuild kits (Both 1/2", One with, and one without rezzy?) (Which would service the 4 shocks total) and 2 bladders (For the rear shocks).

Thank you!

Actually was just looking at the pictures. For the extra price ($2.50) might as well order 2 kits with rezzys for $2.50 extra. Looks like its the same kit with more seals in case of error or if not then for the bin.

Yes there are extra o-rings but hay these days its all about spares.

My kit and bladders should be here in a week or 2

My front shocks are at the suspension guru shop now. I was going to do
them myself but hay get the done and they will gassed and tested. Yes it will
cost a penny or 2 but bolt on and GO

He is a supply of FOX shocks products

wyeeoddy

Good to hear your gettin a new bladder Adrian...should stop you pissing around so much now!

Just found this picture by picture write-up. Nice.

http://dirtbike.off-road.com/dirtbike/f ... 12149.html

So you are re-doing your rear shocks. Looks like the procedure is different for shocks with rez vs no rez.

Without a rez
1. Fill shock with oil 1" from the top.
2. Pump the shaft a few times to remove air
3. Re-fill to 1" to the top as needed.
4. Assemble and add Nitrogen. Done.

With a rez
1. Fill the shock and rez half way
2. Install the bladder (It should basically flood oil and drip everywhere).
3. Within the air-side of the bladder there should be no oil as its job is to hold Nitrogen, but any air on the 'oil' side of the rez/bladder needs to be displaced by overflowing oil to expel all air during assembly.
4. Assemble rez
5. Keep the rez below the shock so that no air gets into the oil-side of the rez.
6. Fill the shock completely to the top
7. Pump the shaft several times to remove all air.
8. Add more oil again to the very top
9. Assemble 'wet' so no air gets in - again oil will run out everywhere as the final cap is tightened.
10. Add nitrogen to the rez

Basically the shocks with rez are to be completely flooded with oil and no air, and only inside the bladder holds Nitrogen in the end which tends to compress when the shock moves.

Both get dry nitrogen 250PSI.

Is that how you are going to do the rears w/ rez?

0client

Yes I have seen that and read it a few times.

I Did not do the work. I sent them out to a Suspension specialist this time.

Full strip and clean and service.

wyeeoddy

What about pre-load? In my pilot, the front has 3~4 rings visible above the spring perch, and the rear the spring perch is all the way at the TOP of the shock.

on the write up above, one thing, what I have learned and have used as a practice, once the bladder in in and all of the air out, then charge the bladder to a low pressure, can use air, just need about 10 psi, this will seat the bladder and also when pumping the shock to work out the air it prevents collapsing the bladder and putting an unknown amount of oil into the rezzie

Kuma

Yes there is a unknown amount of oil into the rezzie and shock body.

As the guy was showing me this morning he squashes the bladder in the center but does
not squash the poopper out of it. Then fills the res the fits bladder. Then as per works instructions
fills with oil and then completes rebuild then fills nitrogen @250psi.

If you don't the bladder is @ full size and and you Fill to 250psi the bladder is over size which
(( NOTE there is air in the bladder already )) this will give you MORE surface area yes you have 250psi but the bladder now has a larger volume. Which then will give you less pressure in the Resi, and will allow more movement of oil around the system.
even with to correct oil weight and to the specs from WORKs yes it will work but
not as they should.

NOTE this is My interpretation from what I heard this morning

wyeeoddy

Side NOTE

Qualityshocksservice@gmail.com

I am sorry to say The Guy needs to learn to

1 Read a email.
2 Read a email and reply with the information that was requested in the email
3 Read the first email that has all the information on it that I requested and price as required.
4 For god sake Read the first email that has what I wanted to order.
5 Read the email that has the quantity I wanted
6 Then tried to charge me $110US for shipping
would of been $270 US for 2 x 1/2 seal kits and 2 x Bladders and Shipping

So I gave up

and went with
https://www.schmidtyracing.com
ordered on 16/05/2018 and arrived 23/05/2018
So that's from the US to Oz in 7 days and only paid $132.00 US
Me

wyeeoddy

when the shock is in operation the amount of oil that goes into the rezzie should be the same, the rezzie allows for the oil expansion due to heat, also when the shock is compressed the oil travels from one side of the piston to the other, but the piston rod displaces fluid, this is what goes into the rezzie.
The pressure in the bladder serves a couple of purposes, one it keeps the oil under pressure to recuse cavitation and 2 the pressure acts on the area of the piston rod and actually works as a pneumatic spring.
I'm not sure if 250 psi is a common pressure for a bladder type, I have some King shocks and they recommend 150, from my understanding this is the lowest they recommend to keep the oil from cavitation.
As you may have guessed, I'm no expert, just passing along what I have learned, right or wrong but may be worth researching or not.
glad you found an alternate rebuild kit with reasonable shipping.

Picked up my front Works Shocks from the Suspension guru.

He found the o-ring in the head seal Item 7 in pic had a major rip / split in it
Now i will take full responsibility for that when I replace the shaft that I broke
due to the new bushings I had made and fitted.

I now have converted both top and bottom to spherical bearings.

So a little grease on the bearings and bolted them up and All Good

wyeeoddy

For what its worth, I called the guy who answered the phone at 1-818-701-1010 which is apparently Works these days. I asked about spring preload. Basically 20-25% preload is the aim goal. So on a 6" travel suspension - that's about 1.5" preload. 8" would be 2".

Measure the buggy with the suspension fully extended from the center/frame to the ground and write that number down. measure again with a driver and the suspension settled at rest. The change/difference from fully extended to fully settled is the aim at spring preload. Make adjustments as needed.

I found my WORKs shocks needed to be at the (Rear - top/highest setting | Front - Mid setting). Ultimately I did not have to move the body snap ring at all. Someone already had it right before me.