Here is the driven clutch I use on my 440 Pilot, the trans uses a different input shaft made by Dan Roberto, its a 7/8" shaft, it accepts the FL350 clutch and or the 90D Comet.

The clutch comes with 3 drilled holes so I tapped them to 5/16 bolt so I can use a 3 jaw puller to remove when it becomes stubborn you also can thread in a bolt to spread the driven for replacing the slipers and belt like on the Pilot driven, dunno if this works on the stock 350 driven maybe the 350 gurus know?


Sure makes changing belts EASY and you don't stress out the belt by running it over the clutches.

I need to get one of them puller dohickies... And a tap and die set to match.. I am need to replace my slippers on my driven, but have not gotten the nerve, that almost looks easy...

The 350 uses a 7/8th input shaft. Did you set that one up to accomodate the wider belts that most sleds use? I retained the comet 790 driven when I added the polaris sled motors. The sled drive clutch was set up for a 1 3/8 belt vs the 1 1/16 that the ody set up used. Threw the clutching way off out of the hole. To fix this I removed the helix and machined the backside of it, then made a shim that was the same thickness as the material I removed from the backside of the helix. This shim fits between the two pully faces and has an interference fit so it doesn't slide around when the clutch is shifted out. This allows for the wider belt and full travel of the slippers on the helix. Where were you able to find your clutch? I've only found HRD to be able to get them.

I got my driven from sledpartsguy was selling them new with a buy it now of $169.99
http://stores.ebay.com/Sledpartsguy-Sup ... eZl2QQtZkm

I left it setup for the stock width 350 belt.

In the pic is the blue marker I put on the clutch when new you can see how low it was running.

The black belt slip mark you see (pink arrow) I assume is just that when the belt was covered with oil from the trans, the rest of the trip I would unload the Pilot from the bus and push it around out of the way then push it back to the ramps and start it and drive it into the bus..

The blue arrow points to where the two pulleys touch when closed, I assume its dirt and sand smashed between the two.

I found some pictures of modifying the helix to fit the Pilot trans

I'm curious if you have ever run into a more suborn driven pulley. I setup my puller like its shown in the pictures (great idea by the way) but the problem was the new 8mm holes I drilled and tapped stripped before it came off. I even went up to 10mm after that and those stripped as well.

I finally cut off the pulley so now I could grab the very back and once the spring compressed all the way it still wouldn't budge. I busted the puller trying to get it off.

I've never seen anything stuff like this before. We were putting on penetrating oil and heating it with a torch and even tapping it with a hammer. Nothing.

You trying to remove the whole clutch or just the cam?

The whole clutch will get rusted on the shaft and be hard to remove sometimes, the cam make sure you removed the snap ring sometimes the end of the shaft its on gets mushroomed or rusted tap the cam and drive it on further then sand the end of the shaft, lube it up and try to pull again.