Here are the instructions...
Here are the directions I was forwarded from chucklenuts at aftershot motorspurts...
And a link...
Randy,
He needs a 5/16" 12 point wrench. Those bolts are 170 KSI which is I think
about grade 10 so they can be cranked on. The nut inserts they go into are
grade 12.
I don't know where the video is. I have not been sending it out. The kit
is normally sent out mostly assembled. In order to get it out the day it
went, a few things like the ball joints were not threaded into the A-arms.
I have attached a zip file containing a bunch of closer pictures than what
I put on my website. Please only send these to those who have already paid
for a kit.
These are work in progress instructions. Send them as if from you. I try
to update them based on questions asked:Strip down the front of the machine. Basically everything has to be
removed. Pop the stock ball joints out of the knuckles by hitting the SIDE
of the knuckle where the stud goes through while pulling on the arm. The
shock will cause it to pop. Hitting the stud itself will destroy it.
You will have to cut the hoop off the bottom of the frame that protected
the steering. The brake line mounting tabs on the lower front main tube
and a couple more tabs inside the lower frame tubes at the back of the
front fenders also will be cut off. Holding the lower portion of the
subframe up against the main frame will indicate the tabs that need to be
removed. The tabs needs to be ground flush to the tubes. Dry fit the
subframe to your frame before getting it painted or powder coated. The
steering tab in the center of the machine needs to be drilled out to
7/16". The spacer goes under the inner tie rod ends, then the left end and
finally the right end on top.
The ball joints will end up with about 1/2" to 3/4" of thread showing if
adjusted to clear stock rims. If using wheels with less backspacing, the
ball joints can be threaded in more without clearance issues.
Some camber
(top of wheels tipped in) is desirable.The inner most hiem in the steering adjusts the steering stops. You should
end up with about 2.5" of tie rod movement from left stop to right stop.
Check for clearance at full suspension droop.
The bottom of the studs on
the outermost tie rod end can be trimmed to get additional clearance.
However, if you try to get too much movement, the steering can pop past
full turn. You can adjust the steering stops by loosening both jam nuts
and spinning the drag link
(7" long 5/8" OD tube). Toe in can be adjusted
by loosening the tie rod jam nuts and spinning the tie rod (aluminum
tube).
Zero toe works well, adjust as desired. Once toe is set and
steering stops are set, if there is excessive thread exposed on the outer
hiem of the drag link do the following: Remove the bolt from the clevis on
the tie rod. Spin the inner drag link hiem in counting the turns. Replace
the bolt then adjust the toe in again by 1/2 the number of turns. The same
process or the opposite adjustments can be used to minimize bump steer. It
is possible to adjust down to +/- 0.1 degrees of bump steer through the
entire suspension travel. Note that even with the worst possible
adjustment, bump steer will still be far less than stock.
There is a small piece twisted and bent tab. This is to mount the brake
tee. It goes under one of the bolts on the triangular steering stem plate.
The hard brake line will swoop back and to the left, right angle down then
right angle forward into the tee. See the pictures for placement of the
flexible lines.
The number of parts may seem overwhelming, but once you get it next to the
machine, it will make more sense. Once the number of parts left dwindles
from installing some, those remaining will make more sense. Let me know
any questions you have.Steve Bishop (Professional Liar)
chucklenuts at aftershot motorspurts Motorsports
http://www.pilotodyssey.com/8525687400 ... enDocumentthere are pictures here at this link