Hello this is a work in progress on part # 43210-xxx-006
Bracket for odyssey and Pilot rear Disk brake

Has I start the measuring I use gage pins in the holes so we know the diameter for each.
Then by indicating pins C and F in a straight line and then bolt to an angel plate.
Then we measure between all the pins so we can get them drawn on screen first.

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Great job! Very impressive.
what will these be made of?
Put me down for 2 please

Looks great I cant wait to see the finished product.

Every Pilot and Odyssey rear brake will end up looking like this one, that is pics of my old one I bought a whole new assembly, Honda don't make them any more

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Hello this is a work in progress on part # 43210-xxx-006
Bracket for odyssey and Pilot rear Disk brake
Part Two drawing in 3d solids

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I would go in to more detail but I burn up about 10 hr drawing to day no this
Eyes little burned

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just finishing up

That is truely amazing to me.
I should have finished college.
Thanks for taking time to do this

Ditto!

Ok
We need some pros and cons on
Materials Types
I thinking of using
A36 Mild Steel
ASTM A36 steel is the most commonly available of the hot-rolled steels. It is generally available in round rod, square bar, rectangle bar, as well as steel shapes such as I-Beams, H-beams, angles, and channels. The hot roll process means that the surface on this steel will be somewhat rough. Note that its yield strength is also significantly less than 1018 - this means that it will bend much more quickly than will 1018. Finally, machining this material is noticeably more difficult than 1018 steel, but the cost is usually significantly lower.
ASTM A36 Mild (low-carbon) steel
Minimum Properties Ultimate Tensile Strength, psi 58,000 - 79,800
Yield Strength, psi 36,300
Elongation 20.0%
Chemistry Iron (Fe) 99%
Carbon (C) 0.26%
Manganese (Mn) 0.75%
Copper (Cu) 0.2%
Phosphorus (P) 0.04% max
Sulfur (S) 0.05% max

The pros are
Stronger
Better wear
More wear on slider bolt pins witch will be much less cost to replace then this bracket
No need to use Part # 45112-xxx-0006 RETAINER BRACKET That is Not available
The out side profile Can be flame cut save on material waste and cut time
Can be E coated for protection for rust
Cheaper then 6061 aluminum buy 2 to 2-1/2 times
Cheaper then 7075 aluminum buy 3 to 3-1/2 times


Cons
Rust
Heaver then aluminum in weight


Aluminum
6061-T6 Aluminum
Physical and Mechanical Properties Ultimate Tensile Strength, psi 45,000
Yield Strength, psi 40,000
Brinell Hardness 95
Rockwell Hardness B60
Chemistry Aluminum (Al) 95.8 - 98.6%
Chromium (Cr) 0.04 - 0.35%
Copper (Cu) 0.15 - 0.40%
Magnesium (Mg) 0.8 - 1.2%
Manganese (Mn) 0.15% max
Silicon (Si) 2.8 - 3.8%
Zinc (Zn) 1.5% max

7075-T6 Aluminum
Physical and Mechanical Properties Ultimate Tensile Strength, psi 83,000
Yield Strength, psi 73,000
Brinell Hardness 150
Rockwell Hardness B87
Chemistry Aluminum (Al) 87.1 - 91.4%
Zinc (Zn) 5.1 - 6.1% max
Copper (Cu) 1.2 - 2.0%
Chromium (Cr) 0.18 - 0.28%
Iron (Fe) 0.5 max
Magnesium (Mg) 2.1 - 2.9%
Manganese (Mn) 0.3% max

Pros
Not as heavy as steel
Will not rust
6061 is machines faster less cut time
7075 hard as steel

Cons
Will corrode will need to be E coated
will need to use Part # 45112-xxx-0006 RETAINER BRACKET That is Not available
6061 will wear faster in slider pin bolt holes
7075 will wear in slider pin bolt holes but not as fast as 6061



Well if you Have something you would like to add post away

Fist ones to be cut will be out of steel for fit. will post pic's of machining
To figure cost of machining time setup and fixturing

thanks for looking
Speedchaser

I am no guru on materials for this kind of thing but I hate rust...

I would like to see a cost per bracket using steel and aluminum if at all possible then decide based on the cost,
I assume once you have done a few out of steel you can figure the cost if you used aluminum?

Great looking work so far thanks.

The cost of the materials themselves are inconsequential when you consider your time. Even at minimum wage, one hour will purchase several aluminum blanks. Select the material based on performance and manufacturability (Al good for corrosions and machining time, steel good for strength and wear).

I would prefer AL . I would think the Al would help disapate heat and act as a heat sink disapating heat transfer to steel pins in to the case.. Other thought would be if steel and heat transfer thru into pin and caliper might have an effect on fluid residance in the caliper as well as added maintance to the lubracatiing of the pins or syn lub to handle the temps. The silocone % will help with thermal expansion however the quanity may be to low. If steel the tolorence may need to be increased to accomadate the expansion and keep the claiper for locking up on the pins and loosing breaking effency. For me I would lean torward the 6061 I feel it would be a good all around choice. If need be press a brass insert into the Al and it will whare the steel pin before taking out the Al and the brass insert can be replaced as part of a rebuild kit saving the cost of the Al bracket. Kit could contain new brass inserts and pins. As far ar the pins go you could heat them up to 200 degrees in an oven and soak into a syn base lube changing the molcle structure alowing the steel to asorb the syn and when cooling maintaing the syn lub in the steel which can be released under extream braking as not to lock on bracket futhure reducing the thermal effect.This may be where the turbo brake caliper fan can reduce the effect. I would pay the exta to have AL. Man I sure wish I had skill like that. Really nice work. Thank yo for your work.

6061-T6 alum is a good choice. A36 is more used in fabrication than machining. If it can be machined, it is just not typically used for a part like this. If this was to be made of steel 12L14 would be the material of choice since it does not require high strength and will not be welded. 12L14 is considered "free machining" so even though the material cost is more than A36, it machines much faster so the finished part should cost less; especially on a part like this where there is so much material to be removed. Another material option would be 303 Stainless. It has very good corrosion properties compared to steel and is also very easy to machine. The weight of this part in steel or stainless would be a lot so 6061 is probably the best choice. Your CAD system will probably give you mass properties of your part based on the density of the material (roughly .1 lb/ft^3 for AL or .3 lb/ft^3 for steel/stainless) You could of course add features such as holes/slots to lighten the steel/stainless part but it would cost that much more in machine time.

Using an oilite bronze bushing would be a great idea for the pins to slide in. They are very inexpensive and would function very well in this application. Oilite it a porous bronze material impregnated with oil; as there is a sliding action (friction) the oil is drawn to the surface to lubricate that interface. A great source for bushings or any industrial mechanical components is http://www.mcmaster.com

An other option would be to hard anodize the aluminum to significantly increase the wear properties. You would have to take the thickness of the hard anodizing into account for the holes as it is typically 2-3 MILS (.002 - .003") so on a hole you would need to over size it .004 to .006" for proper fit. They can control the anodizing thickness very well, you just have to spec that it be controlled.

Nice work on the reverse engineering!

Hello all cut one out to day out of block of 6061
did all right not bad for the first one

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WOW that's sweet!

You make this look so easy even though I know its NOT and very time consuming.

Thanks for supporting the Pilot Odyssey community

That is beautiful

Will there be a brass sleeve where the silder bolts ride?
great work

That is SWEET work..... You need to count me in for 2 of them when you get done with prototype.....

Nice work.... Pilotman

No room for a bronze bushing the rubber boot will not work then. Hole for rubber boot is .426 dia slider pin hole .354
That gives you .072 oval .036 per side thin wall bushing may work out of stainless steel witch would have to be made
and probably not cost affective
Thanks speed

Nice Part! That is a LOT of work!

Man that's terrific work Speed-count me in for 2 as well please.And thanks for the contribution to the POOA it is greatly appreciated!

Beautiful job I am envious of your talents!!!