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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 30, 2008 8:07 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:17 pm
Posts: 3620
Location: Wichita ks
more


Attachments:
flash over bottom side of crown.jpg
flash over bottom side of crown.jpg [ 56.72 KiB | Viewed 2429 times ]
Piston and pen.jpg
Piston and pen.jpg [ 77.23 KiB | Viewed 2429 times ]
Pen and bbearing.jpg
Pen and bbearing.jpg [ 42.76 KiB | Viewed 2429 times ]
s favorite NOT!.jpg
s favorite NOT!.jpg [ 61.89 KiB | Viewed 2429 times ]
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 30, 2008 8:10 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:17 pm
Posts: 3620
Location: Wichita ks
that's it for now, Baz I started maping the bars.


Attachments:
side view drive side.jpg
side view drive side.jpg [ 78.7 KiB | Viewed 2428 times ]
side view stator side.jpg
side view stator side.jpg [ 79.13 KiB | Viewed 2428 times ]
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 30, 2008 9:17 pm 
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Joined: Wed Dec 17, 2003 8:43 pm
Posts: 1368
Location: Colorado
wow, what got loose and pounded around in there?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 30, 2008 10:26 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:17 pm
Posts: 3620
Location: Wichita ks
Big end bearing parts look at the cank pic where it blued you will see where the shime started to flake from the heat. The bearing is trash and maybe event the crank When i get it apart I will see if can be rebuilt. No matter got new one in box. and one already rebuilt.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 30, 2008 11:30 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2004 8:45 pm
Posts: 2243
When my lower rod bearing let go last year in the 420, it blued the crank just like that. Sorry to hear but at least you already have a good crank ready to go(glass half full thing). Is it rebuilt or a used crank? Good time to swap main bearings and seals(while the cases are split). Call it a $100 insurance policy!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 31, 2008 7:50 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
adnoh wrote:
Big end bearing parts look at the cank pic where it blued you will see where the shime started to flake from the heat. The bearing is trash and maybe event the crank When i get it apart I will see if can be rebuilt. No matter got new one in box. and one already rebuilt.


Do you have the bottom end split yet?

Look at the cases in the bottom end did the rod hit the cases?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 31, 2008 3:35 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:17 pm
Posts: 3620
Location: Wichita ks
Half full that's me. I have both new and a rebuilt on hand with new bearing and seals. I split case on every rebuild and replace beaing and seal and measure crank as well look over the big end. I run hard and don't care to do twice if I can keep from it. The rod did not hit case It locked up before it got that far. The run out on crank will tell the story there. I will measure before pushing in apart. She the wife has bragging rights " it locke up chasing the tigers".


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 31, 2008 3:59 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
adnoh wrote:
Half full that's me. I have both new and a rebuilt on hand with new bearing and seals. I split case on every rebuild and replace beaing and seal and measure crank as well look over the big end. I run hard and don't care to do twice if I can keep from it. The rod did not hit case It locked up before it got that far. The run out on crank will tell the story there. I will measure before pushing in apart. She the wife has bragging rights " it locke up chasing the tigers".


Any machine marks left on that piston?

don't look like much bevel left around the ports?

What port mods you planning on making?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 31, 2008 4:19 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:17 pm
Posts: 3620
Location: Wichita ks
Hardly any left, bore and piston wore but good. I posted end gaps,bore and forgot piston I measured but forgot to post sorry, and they were at there max and beyond. She got good time out of it. Shame I did nothing until it siezed. Please feel free to smake me around. This cylinder will be bored a fitted with .50 honda as well as a few more port mods and be held for spare. I have learned a thing or two since it was touched back in 97 yes 1997. The new cylinder will get a new whole set of upgrades power and a little rev porting The Cr will be adjusted to cylinder volume at exhaust closing to match stock pipe with altered stinger dia. I thought I would try something new there. Yhe Bemp will be set after the CR is calculated and exhaust duration is calculated. That will part three math working on part two now. I,am maping the duration in degrees to calculate the port pramerters and carb size. I wil post more pics as I take them. Feel free to throw thing out there I,am open minded. I have an alternive thery to share on next write up. I did how ever post some info on running low compression I guess I should have read what I wrote. I do need to alter post I forgot a couple of good points. You will get a kick out of the bottom end pic. The resadue left behind from exhaust gase were the worst I ever seen. She had to be on it hard when the rings could no longer hold back the pressure. Can we say FLLLUUUTTTEEEERRRR. The syn resadue really left a mess as it seperate from the fuel.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 01, 2008 11:58 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:17 pm
Posts: 3620
Location: Wichita ks
case splt pics


Attachments:
File comment: spilt and pushing crank
case splitter.JPG
case splitter.JPG [ 62.21 KiB | Viewed 2356 times ]
File comment: removing seals
seal removal.JPG
seal removal.JPG [ 69.93 KiB | Viewed 2356 times ]
File comment: removing other side attaching splitter to push bearing
seal remover ready to push bearing.JPG
seal remover ready to push bearing.JPG [ 67.15 KiB | Viewed 2356 times ]
File comment: seal abd bearing kit
seal remover and installer kit.JPG
seal remover and installer kit.JPG [ 58.29 KiB | Viewed 2356 times ]
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 02, 2008 12:10 am 
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Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:17 pm
Posts: 3620
Location: Wichita ks
more it keep timeimg out


Attachments:
goo.JPG
goo.JPG [ 69.79 KiB | Viewed 2352 times ]
more goo after split.JPG
more goo after split.JPG [ 71.84 KiB | Viewed 2352 times ]
look close.JPG
look close.JPG [ 54.57 KiB | Viewed 2352 times ]
big end bearing melt down.jpg
big end bearing melt down.jpg [ 29.55 KiB | Viewed 2352 times ]
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 02, 2008 12:14 am 
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Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:17 pm
Posts: 3620
Location: Wichita ks
it get better


Attachments:
for turbo on how not to loose, rember the shock.JPG
for turbo on how not to loose, rember the shock.JPG [ 56.97 KiB | Viewed 2414 times ]
case splitter with seal,clutch side bearing tool.JPG
case splitter with seal,clutch side bearing tool.JPG [ 64.09 KiB | Viewed 2414 times ]
out it comes clutch side.JPG
out it comes clutch side.JPG [ 55.01 KiB | Viewed 2414 times ]
stater side.JPG
stater side.JPG [ 65.55 KiB | Viewed 2414 times ]
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 02, 2008 12:20 am 
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Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:17 pm
Posts: 3620
Location: Wichita ks
more fun.


Attachments:
out it comes stator side.JPG
out it comes stator side.JPG [ 56.27 KiB | Viewed 2413 times ]
File comment: pulled bearing Japan
Japan orignal.JPG
Japan orignal.JPG [ 59.44 KiB | Viewed 2413 times ]
the metal H was asking about.JPG
the metal H was asking about.JPG [ 59.13 KiB | Viewed 2413 times ]
hot metal in the Al.JPG
hot metal in the Al.JPG [ 44.14 KiB | Viewed 2413 times ]
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 02, 2008 12:24 am 
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Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:17 pm
Posts: 3620
Location: Wichita ks
some clean time on surface


Attachments:
darnbig end bearings frags.JPG
darnbig end bearings frags.JPG [ 55.18 KiB | Viewed 2411 times ]
all metal frages removed ready to surface.JPG
all metal frages removed ready to surface.JPG [ 58.4 KiB | Viewed 2411 times ]
first clean.JPG
first clean.JPG [ 48.7 KiB | Viewed 2411 times ]
meatl frag removed and surfaced.JPG
meatl frag removed and surfaced.JPG [ 47.17 KiB | Viewed 2411 times ]
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 02, 2008 12:32 am 
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Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:17 pm
Posts: 3620
Location: Wichita ks
If you look over the crank pics you know why I can not measure run out. It will not run in blocke to accurately measure. The rod is locked in pritty good. I will have to push apart to check. The old crank bearing look preaty good. I will clean and lookover a keep for bench motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) if good. The stator side looks the worse. The gear case was full of oil I cc the drained fluid to make sure the seal was holding. The bearing were tight in the case and on crank. No spinning. Good sign for new tight fit. I will finish clean up now I now cases are good. I will measure run out on new crank since box was beat up. The packing was to be desired Time let Honda know. Kawasake at least foam packs theres. I will also mic old and new bearing and after case cleanup measure case.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 02, 2008 12:41 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 08, 2007 12:39 am
Posts: 3294
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
Great inventory of tools, we'll have to start calling you "Adnoh the Tool Man" Arrrgh Arrrgh!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 02, 2008 8:11 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:17 pm
Posts: 3620
Location: Wichita ks
I like tools like I like new parts. Have any thought on what I can add. Stixs, Tobey and I are probley going to make our way to OKC in two weeks. You be around. I will need something to do while the Wife and Mother in law shop. Do some jetting, shoping of our own. Carbs tires rims ect. I just hate to be there driver when I can be playing. I could even load up the 450 for some odysse chasing and bar banging. Remington park is calling Tobey and My name Man they have great jumbo shrimp. Watching the quarter horses remind me of the tiger comming out of the hole I bet it would even be a photo finish between Drakman and Tedpilot. I would lay down some cash on that one.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 02, 2008 8:55 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 08, 2007 12:39 am
Posts: 3294
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
I think you have them all. No plans in 2 weeks.I'll be pulling my pipe to get the old EGT probe hole filled and repositioning the probe this weekend.I got a compression gauge:) Maybe we can tinker and then play with the toys.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 02, 2008 9:35 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:17 pm
Posts: 3620
Location: Wichita ks
I like to tinker. You could just brase the hole shut. Yu can get a cheap kit from farm and ranch supply two small botles and a few stick to brase with. Or mabye just brase patch over as not to alow build up inside distorting the flow ( bumped surface) probly wondnt hurt, patch would be easier. What about a screw insert to reatach if needed then it could be caped. Just throwing thing out there. Any thought on where to relocate the probe.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 02, 2008 11:55 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 08, 2007 12:39 am
Posts: 3294
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
Throw all U want, I'll catch.I've never brazed and not sure how, patch on inside or outside or both?. I thought about the screw thing but like you said I didnt want to leave any "imperfections" inside the pipe. I was going to take the pipe to my welder guy who is also an automotive exhaust system installer, have him weld a disc inside the hole to fill it in then we can slip some kind of rotary file or equivelent inside the pipe to smooth it out, though 6 inches is quite a ways to be reached with a pneumatic rotary file, Im sure Ill figure something out.Who knows maybe I will get to buy a new tool to do the job, Arrrgh, Arrgh.
Randy at Ody Sal has never steered me wrong, he says probe should be 2-1/2 inches from head and the tip of the probe should be just shy of 1/8" of center of pipe,Turbo and another guy said thier probe was about 3 " or just inside the 2 springs.
How does this sound to you. Do you think the brazing would be better...Your turn...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Apr 05, 2008 11:49 am 
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Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:17 pm
Posts: 3620
Location: Wichita ks
Not know about EGTs does to type of pipe have an effect on location. I would like to read more location to type of pipe. I bet "H" would good info on that or link you to it. Have you made any jetting changes and seen an effect on egts.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Apr 05, 2008 11:54 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 08, 2007 12:39 am
Posts: 3294
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
No jetting changes yet. Randy suggested the proble placement specifically for stock pipe.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Apr 05, 2008 4:38 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 8:46 am
Posts: 5257
Location: Seguin, TX (near San Antonio)
stix9567 wrote:
No jetting changes yet. Randy suggested the proble placement specifically for stock pipe.



I think Digitron states 6" from piston wall???


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Apr 05, 2008 4:43 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 08, 2007 12:39 am
Posts: 3294
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
That sounds right Turbo. . I just measured from the piston wall and that comes out to 2-1/2 inches from the end of my pipe


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Apr 05, 2008 5:45 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:17 pm
Posts: 3620
Location: Wichita ks
Stixs used that new tool yet. What's the readings. Why the pipes off take a look inside. Piston skirt and cylinder walls. So does the pipe make a diff on locaton or not. Just wondering. I measured up bottom end and ready to assemble. Heres a couple of run pics on crank.


Attachments:
crank and tools.jpg
crank and tools.jpg [ 79.05 KiB | Viewed 2435 times ]
set up at 45 mm.jpg
set up at 45 mm.jpg [ 68.19 KiB | Viewed 2435 times ]
set up at 53mm.jpg
set up at 53mm.jpg [ 71.87 KiB | Viewed 2435 times ]
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