Its my boring bar, http://pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewtopic.php?t=892

Here is the Wiseco boxes the old and new, I thought we had this clearance discussion on the 350 once before and the wiseco guy said to run .004 thought we also had the discussion about the torque plates on a 2 stroke and it was not an issue.

I would love to go to LS, but it would be about a 21 hour driver for me and probaly a 1000 bucks worth of gas there and back. Maybe one day, after I get both machines running great.

The ody will have a hillside head also, so hopefully overheating will not be an issue.

For some reason I was thinking you were moving to Oklahoma??

When I have ED at TRIPLE EEE do my rebuilds I am pretty sure he uses the .004 clearance on the pistons-i checked my paperwork on the last one and it was a used jug bored and honed and the clearance was at .004-but I also checked back on some other rebuilds from years back and I have even had them .006-so the debate rages on.NowI cannot give you performance testing on these clearnces as the 350's with them were/have been sold off since the rebuilds, but I contacted a old buyer and he didnt have any issues with siezures on the .004 motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )), normal wear.

Frame sanded, primed and painted. Got the jug from hoser and it looks great. Time to split the case and start putting this thing back together.

Is there something fundamentally wrong with a metallic green honda?

more pics

crankcase split, some pics :

crankshaft trouble :

The crankshaft has some type of pitting/corrosion on it. Not sure what exactly it is, maybe rust? I have gotten some of it off with a wire brush and scrubby pad. Do you guys think this will be ok once I get all of the dirt off? Any suggestions to get that bearing off the shaft? I cant get it to budge.

I cant believe its been almost three months since I began painting this thing. I am still working on it, but getting close to being finished. In short here are a few things that were done :


Got a replacement top end of ebay. The seller had listed it incorrectly so I took a chance and got a jug on the stock bore and a piston in good shape for cheap. I'll keep running the used piston for a bit before I bore it, but I will already have the piston ordered earlier when it is time.

Got tired of trying to clean the stock tank, replaced with a 5 gallon gravity tank. Had a few problems getting the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) to run correctly, but after plugging the vac line and connecting the change switch (duh) the ody runs like a champ. Had some slight metallic residue on the head around the plug after the brake in period, but after few more short runs this seems to have disappeared.

Rebuilt the rear caliper and the piston leaked as I feared, but not around the edges like I thought. Instead it leaked through the center pin in the piston. That part did not appear to be replaceable, so I just JB welded the interior side of the piston and that seems to have stopped the leak. The rear brakes work but are very spongy and don't have great stopping power. There are no leaks that I can see in the lines and no spots on the floor underneath the ody. I have bled the rear caliper a few times waiting days between hoping any air will bubble to the end. I have yet to get anymore air out and the brakes are still not right. The brake lines were completely dry so It may just need more time, I am going to try standing the ody up on its nose for a few hours to get any stuck air out.

Its nice to be closer to being done but I still have more to go :

install water cooled head and rad
replace seat and harness
install lights on top
finish painting top plate on cage, air dams and nerfs, all pink (agh) per wifes request.
fix starter button, does not seem to be connected correctly or has a bad switch.

Mean Green,Green machine or Mean Green Machine. What you going to call it. I had a truck almost that color just a little darker. You have truck project to match. Looks nice.

Randy at ody salvage told me that the rear brake will not adjust tightly without the parking brake handle connected.

He mentioned this when I told him ny rear brakes needed adj. and I don't have a parking brake handle assembly.

I have one for sale. PM me with an offer.

I was thinking The Incredible Hulk or Green Lantern. Wow you have come a long way since the old red white and blue. Good work and hope to see you at the dunes next spring. Maybe you can make it to Little Sahara in Oklahoma. For some reason I was thinking you were moving to Oklahoma?? Any special power grabbing goodies for the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? ))?

Thanks for the idea, it is missing its e-brake, but so is my other ody so i don't know. maybe I just need to get it real tight.

No real mods planned for the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) yet, just want to get the liquid cooled head on there and then maybe. It has the mid engagement spring in the 90d, and that makes it pull off the start almost as hard as my other modded ody.

no moving plans for now, but I am sure I will make it out that way one of these days.

Randy has a reed housing spacer. You might call him and ask him about it.I cant remember exactly how it works but its supposed to increase power.

Rebuilt the rear caliper over the weekend. Replaced all the o-ring with one I found at lowes. Way cheaper. I think that the smallest o-ring got scuffed a bit during installation the first time around. Also noticed that my parking brake was missing the proper bolts. A prior owner had replaced the long adjustment bolt with a much shorter one so the proper starting pressure on the brake was never correct. Once that was corrected the rear brakes are much better. Not quite as good as my other ody, but getting there. After a 15 min run around my yard the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) seems great. Had to pull the air box lid to make it run perfect, but I should have expected that. The only issue is when I hit the rear brakes after a short WOT (Wide Open Throttle) run, the rear end bounces considerably, almost like tires have suddenly gone out of balance. The trailing arms on this machine have both been bent and repaired in the past. I wonder if that could be a cause? The rear suspension also seems very stiff. I took the shocks off another ody and they were much softer before being installed, so I don't think they are the problem. I think something is out of wack with these rear arms. There are washers installed by a prior owner I guess to attempt and straighten the wheels tracking. I have set the cambers on each and the tires are perpendicular to the ground. Luckily I have a spare set on my sled project ody, but I would rather just fix the problem than switching the arms and seeing it again once that one is up and going.

All in all, I can see the light at the end of the tunnel

Ok,FIRST- the washers are no good, there are stock spacers that go on both sides of the hiem joints-what you have isnt correct and isnt aligning the rear arms at all-that needs to be fixed-the spacers are hard to find but if you look and ask, someone may have them here--what you are doing currently is you have all the pressure directly against that hiem, is will not operate properly with direct pressure on it and may cause the rear arm to be bind in it's motion up and down due to increased pressure by not using the correct spacers.IMO replace that.#9 in the photo.
Second-those arms are badly bent and the repairs aren't to good either-Ebay at set they usually go for these days 50 apiece if that-theres like 2 sets currently available and check out seller "rpm atv" he has a set currently in prime shape.
Third-do you have the correct bushings on the rear shocks by chance? washers there will cause a binding effect as well,the pictures indicate you are using the wrong nuts, and the bushings do not appear to be even there.The nut that's in the picture is a lug nut-you need to use a flare nut as that is the stock OEM way to fasten the shock.#6 is the spacers you need.

Yeah, I am currently looking at the rear arm auctions. I am just a cheap ass. other set went for 60 for both this week, I should have picked that up. I didnt think about the washers causing binding, that makes alot of sense. I will take a look at the bushings, with all the crap I have had to fix on this thing nothing surprises me anymore.

any progress by chance on the rear suspension?