Part of the net was not hooked up.

This picture captures alot, not just the huge exhaust leak but the balancer oil vent tube sticking UP so it can scoop air. dirt, water ext.

The WRONG exhaust spring, put 2 exhaust springs on your parts list...

The Engine wiring harness not routed correctly and touching the EXHAUST.

All signs of a rooky mechanic no attention to detail

RED coolant !

Not captured in the last pic the missing hose clamp on the fuel pump and the clamp on the cylinder end not tight, I was able to pull the pulse tube off both ends with no effort.

Major dent in the radiator cap, add it to your list of parts.

Before removing the top end I stuffed in some rags and cleaned up the leaking exhaust mess with a can of carb cleaner.

Carbon tracking on the plug, should seek out a better spark plug cap that wont arc, current one is the stock cap, I think Drakman had found one that works well?

Two bolts are not right add to the parts list....

I will need TWO reed cage gaskets.

As discussed before manifold needs replaced.

Looks like the piston was replaced but they never honed the cylinder, looks like blow by the ring gap.

The as found ring gap is .032 on a wiseco piston.

Not sure why they didnt hone the cylinder, I will hone and recheck the piston to cylinder clearances, using the quick and dirty method I found .0055 before the hone.

i would like to know what others are using to replace the stock boot i have this same issue.

ME Three!

I tried a couple of different things, got one at the ATV shop at Little Sahara, and the other at a local auto parts store, although at this point I don't remember which worked the best, seems like the one I got at the ATV shop worked well.

I asked around and this seems to be the answer.

The silicone type NGK's with resistor are called LB 05 EMH.

Ok, I'll add that to the list-I will order everything at 1 time-you want to check the bottom end as well Hoser-might as well, I cant hurt IMO.

Nice price on those caps here:

http://www.powersportsuperstore.com/Pro ... click=8320

Even better:

http://www.parkeryamaha.com/index.asp?P ... odID=17195

Thanks for the link!!

More on the filter, I usually wrap the K&N filters in paper towel and rubber bands then let them set a few days this leaches out most the filter oil and makes cleaning faster, easier, cheaper.

Better shot of the boot after the K&N equipped with a Pre Charger.

K&N Failed.

Always found after a K&N fail is the oil from the filter, most including K&N will blame the owner for this failure do the test yourself take a new "properly oiled" filter out of the box and install it into anything (did this on my 400EX) let it set in the sun all day on a 85 degree day take the machine out for a few long WOT (Wide Open Throttle) runs, remove the filter look at the oil that was sucked off the filter into the intake boot.

Pre Charger reduced the size of the crap getting past the filter, the size I am trying to STOP.

I rinsed out the inside with carb cleaner, real fine sand, the size that goes right past the Pre Charger, more flow more dirt and sand flows by the filter, need more flow GET A FILTER WITH LARGER SURFACE AREA...

Thanks to the the K&N filter equipped with a Pre Charger the carb slide is toast, its still useable but its all scared up, if you have another stock carb in better condition send it or if you want to upgrade send new.

Two of the vent hoses are damaged from rubbing on something, I assume they were routed wrong and rubbed on the belt or clutch, attention to detail thing...

I pulled the power bloc clutch so the crank seal could be checked, the bolt for the clutch was not real tight, it came out with no effort, the end of the clutch shaft is messed up a bit I will post pics later, someone drove the clutch side crank seal in way to deep .

When you set them this deep your blocking off the oil passage for the bearing.

Looking at the Engine mount bolts the two in the middle are lose you can spin them with your fingers, the top bolts are not tighten properly the metal plates between the Engine and trans are not seated properly, I might as well pull the Engine to see what damage if any was done to the dowel pins in the Engine and trans.

Looking at the bottom of the crank case something has hit the cases in the past, rod feels tight.

Hoser-did it pass a airleak test by chance?Wondering if the cases are good still-I will add a carb to the list, just replace the darn thing-I have a 39mm PWK here new already but would like to keep it on a low end torque style for tight trail riding-not alot of sand dune here in NJ!!!