Started the rear. can get 12.5 " with new rear shock relocate and 10" with stock. I will be trying to get 11.5" of effective travle out of it. It will alos widen it up a little to match front and be more stavle at speed. I hope. Rember just a hacker. Not selling or tring to profit. just sharing.

Who is the ghost in the pics?

What's behind curtain #1 is a secert ,I did not want any one to see. Na, just make for better visual having a white back ground. Ask anybody who shoot pics for a living solid colors are best. Leared watching tv. It is getting close to holloween. Hope to put in axles this weekend and figure out shock relocate.

You bringing that one to LS in October? Would be nice to see it next to stock.

Nice glove. I think I saw that glove used in the short film Thriller,heeee he, Hmmm just maybe.

I hope to have finished and bring. I will only bring if tested and deamed safe. I would not put myself or others at risk.
Plus stixs said he would be the crash test dummy. Thill that. I liked the thriller video when it came out, shame the man went to the bad side, He had talent. The test tracks here are all wet and will be wet for a couple of weeks if no more rain. Should have shocks by then and ready for first roll over. I will be sure to remove plastic. Drakman, Nice grand daughter. Ted pilot will need just "got passed by a girl sticker".

What brand is the suspension? I need to do the rear of mine now that my fronts done. I'm tired of bottoming out in the rear

I know what you mean about taking pics in the shop it can be a pain in the butt a solid back ground is the best way..

How much did you move the rear carrier out?

Adnoh,

Did I happen to see you at the Kansas State fair, at the Freestyle MX??? Maybe not but I thought it was you.....

Yes my wife and I had attended the fair. We enjoy supporting offroad events as well as it's pretty cool to watch. You should have came over I could have interduced you to Tobey my wife. I picked up a new bolt on for the DCP there.

I have a few more pics of rear for the board to view. Please comment on trailing arm support bracket. Its bolted for mock up but could be welded. I was trying to do a bolt up kit so it could be revert back and change widths front and rear if need be for woods aplacation ect.. Thanks

The new rear shock will need to be 31" eye to eye and a stroke of 12" using a shock relocate kit.

The brand is a back yard hacker. I will post info once done for a do it you self at your own risk. I also will post width #s once I feel it final. I 'am working a a plus 1.5-2.-2.5 and 3" kit with different shock setting from stock to 11.5 inch travle. I will use the best one that works with the front mods.

Some width pics. 62.5 and 65.5. Tobey said get out your rims and change width that way. Hello, Mc Fly,McFly. Shes no fun. I did need to change the setting a little thu with the 62.5 width. The 65.5 wirdth will accodate a larger spring thu. I feel I may go with the 65.5 for dune DCP. and maybe 62.5 for quad wars.

I have been ask to give info on front arms and after setiing up arms and making bump kit I do feel some what comfortable releasing the info. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK. The arms are 05 trx 450 +2+1 mounted backward. Backward is the only way to get them even close and the upper must be expanded. I have had to change bump kit to accomadate for my bent frame. I thought I had bent it back close however not close enough. It can be used without bump kit with limited travle. I am using 05 spindles so I do not have data on use with srock hubs or if the arms can be used with them. using bump kit you can even get 13" of travle. I only recomend 11.5 thu. I will try a new set of +1 and no forward which will strech front a little. and still widen up the front. The maain reason to change front end is to get parts cheaper and more avalibl to get when out of town. Most of the parts can even be bought at any race shop cheaper and better quality. The oly thing I may do on next set is to go with the full ball joint which is stronger.

Please keep in mind that I have not fully tested so can not give thumbs up or down as to if it works.

"H" a while back you had an idea on rear arms to just extend the rear arm out for long travle. I will cut my stock one out and weld in longer piece to see how it works I like that idea for stock shock location. this will alow a stock shock or longer shock bolted up to stock mounts and widen out rear. The rest of the parts can be found for bolt up kit. If the trailing arm mount works no frame cutting or welding relocating will be needed. I did test the theroy out with a mock up and found that 2.5 inch more travle can be reached with no binding like the stock parts do. This will alow a quicker responce of the suspension and make use of the full travle. I found that you also loose 1.125 inch of travle due to stock suspension binding at full bottom which the dual and triple rate spring delays in time the full bottom slowing the rebound thu the woops.

I estimated cost for extension of arms to be $585.00. Yes for both sides Extend upper,new trailing arms fully adjustable chromolly rod end and new axles.not bad. Can use stock ,old works or new longer works. I,am not selling or profiting in any way just sharing. OH ya make your own traling arm support bracket ( see pic). Not a bad price for a wide body, longer travle of 2.5 plus the unusable 1.125 for 3.75 more travle than stock. If some had the YODA arms plus new rear it would probly work well. Also a plus side would be help align a bent frame to run straight. Sure beats $6000.00 for long travle.Yes not a nice but effective.

Just some thought I had Use info at your own risk. If some one want to play I will give a hint One of the traling arms measures out 17.75 center to center. Hint two look at my pics close. One final thought on retorfit kit the stress on axles is a lot less due to decreased angle thu travle.

some more picks, I need shocks.

some more pics

more.

Nice tag

Jesus that thing is raised! Make it 4WD now!

Looks good!

Where are the axles from?

That is looking great, I can't wait to see it in action!

Yes all the info would be much appeciated especially on the upper rear arm your using.I don't want to spend 3500 bucks on the rear suspension of my pilot. I cant wait to hook mine up this way thanks for the R&D.

Oh man, "GOT LIFT". If you cant CATCH the Draks then you'll just have to drive over them like a monster truck.

The full top out showes how the the droop will take place in the woops maintaing ride height. I got the idea from fl670. He had mentioned when I run tu wopps at WOT (Wide Open Throttle) it look like a bobble head in there. I can cut across the tops at speed however more whell travle will help with the bobble head. Most travle takes place in the mid stroke of the shock. So on entry this will help set up travle as it gains speed. We all know the longer the contact patch stays on ground the harder and faster it pulls. This may gain me a little straight speed while chasing drakes. They pull like crazy thu woops. This is why Drakeman was sending me sand sandwiches. I had to run close to collect data, Its was fun to. The rear links will aid in the transition speed to full droop taking the rear kick out of it. I will release axle info as it is acumulated. If some one wanted to take it to full travle you can get 14 in front and 13.5 in rear with minor alterations. I may do a stadium set up for fun later.

Stixs, no ride report from this weekend. Whats up.

Please rember this all expermintal. Later this week it is going to the local race chassie shop for a "UM" ( UM = something not right) session. The pros can tell me where and what to fix.

Still need input on trailing arm bracket. OK or what, An UM will do.

The bobble head comes from the front of a tire hitting the face of a whoop, more suspension will help but you will still have the bobble head thing going on until you quit hitting the face of the whoop with the front of your tire, unless your suspension mods allow the tire to fold back as well as up Their is just not enough travel at 12 to 13" to roll over the whoops like the Drakarts do you need to match the travel of a Drakart to make it ride like one

Adding 6" wheel base will reduce some of the bobble head.

Staying on TOP of the whoops is the key, want to really really piss off the guys behind you when you get near the end of a set of whoops slam on the brakes so they have to get off the tops of the whoops and onto the face of the whoops LMAO... its funny every time.

Well put That is why I went with the trx set up It racks back though compression. Man I could to quit giving out the tricks. Oh well, heres some more. First I will address the awd set up It did cross my mind. putting in a utv Engine and drive line. Talk about a wood machine. Please keep thouwing oout ideas. as stixs says I'll catch.

Now how about some stock arm ideas. Please do not laugh I had limited time so I opted for the skillbilly,back yard hacker approach( thanks turbo) to bolt up. I did not want to cut up arm untill I did more # crunching. I have two options #1 is to extend new arm advantage would be cheaper to do , #2 build new one to fit. I most likly bulid new for a couple of reasons. New would allow a better support,allow half of inch more travle. I,am still calculating the lever ratio it looking lik 1.5 to 1. Stock is around 1 to 1. The 1.5 will allow more effect travle. 2 to 1 being optimal. I will check to see if it can be reached. The advantage of new arm with wide body will allow more travle and keep all factory mounting and fenders in place ( aka" sleeper).

Rember this are rough numbers. How about 9.25 inch of travle. I bet I can get a full 10 thu. the arms can be adjusted a little more out and a change in lever ratio will do it.

Enjoy the pics. I will do more on this later after I get my rear set up done. Or you guy to do it.

oops I had more