Shoubadaba, A little off topic. On your 400 lt conversion have you checked the axle /hub axis with the atvr arms and the ball joint bind. I found that if you change upper arm ball joint location you can move the axle back and out changeing the shock angle as well as get the rear too rake back thu bump 1" and maintain near zero toe change and maintain near zero camber change. You can also run more droop and get more travle maintaining a good ride height. I made new upper ball joint relocate plate on arms to test this or next weekend. It would also reduce twisting force on the arm. I post up pics and ifo onc e I test to see if valid. Just thought I would mention before you make upper shock mounts. You reduce the obtuce angle in relation to the arm pivot axis and move out.

With doing this does it change any of the 2degrees of antisquat that's built into the rear hub angle?

The hub angle can be maintained or changed for more or less anti squat. It allows the the angle on the pivot points to change effcting instant center which effect the anti squat. This should( hope) allow for more accerlation force sooner on exit with out effecting power-oversteer out of the cornor. I will have data soon to see if it accual. Side view drawing shoes it should work by adding more anti squat to the rear. I change the CG by reworking front ( changeing the instant centr in retation to the front wheel center line changing rear squat)and now bringing back into line and allowing for more adjustablilty. This will also alow for a lower ride heightas well, which I really needed.

Can someone tell me what antisquat is and what it does?

"H" I will share my thouhgts on it. Rember just a hacker and no engineer or suspion specslist. I base my hacking off of this info so if it's inacarate it will efffect the outcome. As far as related to the rear upper arms goes I found If I change the angle of the outright to the ball joint it has an effect on the motion of the ball joint and the axis of the axle thu travle. This also allows for the axle to set futhre to the rear changing the wheel base and weight distrubation and alowing the atvr axle to be extended out futhure with out bind changint the track width. The track with will have an effect on body role and tire loading via laterial wieght transfer. This can be expressed by using the forumla WH divides by T. W=weight on tire, H=height of the center of gravity and T= track width. The will show how a change in the center of gravity and width can effect the tire loading for pullling the front end around a cornor. Because the laterial spring base rate is set a change in T( track width) will reduce roll angle. More cornoring force will result in more roll angle. So if you roll excessive at a lower speed more roll stiffness will be required to reduce the roll angle effect. The lower CG will also play a part in this because of the the roll center height the distance from the ground to the CG. In my case I change the CG and T by moving the front shock out which lowers the front end and because of the scrub( change in track width thu travle) it changes T. This also effected the wheel rate. Rember the spring rate did not change so by moving the shock out it change the rate at the wheel. This can expressed by using the forumla wheel rate = spring rate, A squared divided by B times C squared divided D. A= distance from control arm the shocks bolted to, center of of shock bolt to center of pivot point. B=lenght of arm from ball joint to pivot point. C= distance from lower ball joint to instance center( this being the intersecting line of the ball joint and upper and lower ball joints). D= distance from center of tire to the instance center. Now you can see how change A and D can effect this. You can add more wheel rate by moving the shock(A) out ward toward the hub, this will add more rate with out a spring rate change. This will effect roll stifness and corning force. Remember this also changes T by reducing tire scrub.

I thought I would share this first so yo hopefull can follow my babble on the squat. I changed the center of gravity by lowering it so the anti squit of the rear has changed.. If you were to draw a line thu the hub and pivot point to the center line of the front tires you will see by lowereing CG you have changed the amount of anti squat. I look at this by thinking about weight transfer during accerlation. As you accerlate the weight transfers for front to rear and the tire traction changes from coroning force to accerlation force. By moving the agle of the pivot in relatin to CG and the center of the front tires you cahnge the driving force to counter the squatting force. You can change this by moving that anlge upper and lower to the CG. Less anti squat is where the line is closer to the ground and more anit squat is where the line is futher from the ground in relation to a levle line across the CG. If I was to move the rear axle to the rear pushing the hub back this changes the line relationship reducing anti squat, weight bias and the CG. Now change the hub angle and get it back. If I was to run a softer tender which will allow for a lower ride height and softer rate more anti dive can be dialed in to maintain corning force. As far as what I posted before the arm rework allowed not only greater travle without bind it allows for this adjustment that the ATVR arm does not. Please remember that I used a trx front end wich with stock stuff wont turn. As noted before the trx set up allows for a rake change and if the rear does not change the wheel base gets narrow as it goes thu bump. Now the rea will rake back keeping the wheel base in check. I thoouhg this may help exlplain the kick feel if that is what I was feling. The new rework allowes the rear to rake rear wards in bump. this will also change the weight bias because first I moved the hub to the rear and and second the rake effect even thu it's an inch it will change the balance but miniumal, I hope. I have more to shre but time is limited and data is great.

I would think a board member like Lee could explain better and correctly I just wanted to share my thought to waht I was posting. I would like to now if I'am on the right track or all wet. As always any insite would be helpful. Thanks Rcih.

"H" sorry forgot something. If you couter the weight transfer ( unloading the front)you keep the more conring force on front tires so they can pull around the rest of the cornor under accerlation allowing you get on the gas sooner. Te faster you get out the quicker you get down the straight.

seat cover on Ebay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... &viewitem=

Might be a good pattern for someone wanting to make them?

pretty cool, wonder where it came from.

It looks as if we all are going to be bidding on it. I would like to pull patterns from it.

I will be interested in a couple of covers if you build them.

Gary

I have local person that could most defiantly copy the pattern, but I don't know about getting the fabric. I am sure it can be found somewhere.

Sunblock We build custom Carolina sport fishing boats and do a all of our interior cushions ourselves . I have the Fabric to copy the seat cover if I win it. I was the first bid but it seams as if someone else wants it more than me. I did pay another company to recover the seat I have now but it is seamless so I am unable to get a pattern from it. I will start a new thread soon with seat covers so we are not high jacking someone else's thread. Picture below is the seat fabric.

Update: No pics since my laptop is shot and I have to come over here to kinkos for the computer. I got new stainless brake lines installed,master cylinder and yoke. Cylinder is at a local fab shop being welded up it should be done on monday. All that's left is porting boring new seat or cover, fenders, and ride....... Not bad the spendometer is still under 2000.

Nice, post some pics of that jug before you through it on. I am really curious to see how it turned out.

Also, random question, how far out do your 450R arms measure out from the frame to the spindles? My 400ex arms looks small compared to your pics, but from the specs I have read the travel on each is pretty close.

Update: Cylinder is all finished welded,ported, and ready for piston. Once the Engine is back together its really close to being done. I'll post pics soon

Pictures Man Pictures!!!

Pictures finally. Heres a few of the cylinder during the porting process and the cylinder welded up.

Some of the water jaketed cylinder.

A few of the front bumper I made.

Heres the bumper I made for it

looking really good, what type of head is that you have? How much did the shop charge to weld that up, and how are you planning to plumb the coolant lines.... will you connect the jug and head in series and then circulate actively with a pump? Did you drill holes through the jug fins so coolant can flow easily top to bottom, or are the input / output lines large enough to include each level of the air fins???

Xlnt project. It is looking very nice.
Do the shocks bottom before you get full travel at the wheel? Anybody know what would happen if you move the bottom shock mount in towards the frame to get max travel?

I don't know what kind of head it is I purchased it from nickrnr. It was on a fl350 he parted out. The shop charged me 175 for the welding. I'm going to use a mersedes electric water pump for it. The head will be inline with the jug. Yup I drilled holes through the fins for better circulation as well as the inlet and outlet are large enough for the water to enter all the fins at the same time.

Your shock is what mostly dictates your travel. Either your shock or a bumpstop limits the motion of the wheel. On this one I have 11" of wheel travel. I have 1" of ground clearence at max compression. I really couldnt move the lower mounts since I used a set of stock arms. With changing the lower mount position you also will change your shocks tunning. So you will have to get a set you can adjust the valving and such. I tried keeping it as simple as possible.