I just bought my FL350 and I just bought a air box elimination kit using a K&N Filter. I am wondering if I need to reject the carb and if so what size?

I would

Oh boy!

IMO sell the K&N filter and reinstall the air box then modify the air box to have dual inlets and pre filters.

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I will let the 350 gurus chime in, if you do a search or maybe the 350 gurus can give you the links their is plenty of info on the air box mods.

Do a plug chop with it
the jetting to start with might not have been correct....
When adding more air, more fuel is needed, providing the machine was not running rich prior to mods.
If you run it lean bad things will happen ie you push the machine home... etc.
Just search plug chop here...
Regards and a welcome

The kit does eliminate the box but it also has the bag that covers the filter would that be sufficent.

I hate to rain of your parade but.....the bag will not help as much as you may have been lead to believe. The bag will do nothing but keep larger material from entering your filter! Do yourself a favor and place a flashlight inside the K&N filter. Look at all of the light that comes through the filter. If you look close enough, you can see holes in the filter element. These holes are allowing dirt and grit to bypass your filter and go right into the Engine. Have a look at the slide of a carb from anyone that uses a K&N style filter in a dusty off road condition. It will show extreme wear marks from the grit being trapped between the body and the slide. The rest of the debris that didn't get slowed down by the slide went straight into the Engine and does the same damage.

I have seen people successfully use the air box elimination kit but did not use the K&N filter with just the sock. They have taken the K&N filter and wrapped it with a good quality filter material and then used a sock over the top of this.

There is also the issue with air box resonance. The flow of air through a 2 stroke motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) is not just through the intake and out of the exhaust. The air charge moves in and out of the entire system in kind of a jerky in and out motion because of sound pulses and the basic design of a 2 stroke Engine. The air box actually creates a slight back pressure on the system allowing the air fuel charge to flow into the carb more efficiently. Some people may argue this point but I have seen an air box pulse while the Engine is running. If vehicles did not require an air box the factory engineers would have designed them without them.

Just my 2 Bob's worth!

Rand

Good advice and I would like to add to your advice just some info, sometimes when you eliminate the air box and add a pod type filter you get more air but you also loose the taper design of the factory intake, this taper is important because it builds up velocity before the air enters the carb, when you remove the taper and slow the velocity you also reduce the carb signal or the carbs ability to pull the fuel through the jets and then atomize it and blend it with the incoming air charge.

So what does all that mean, sometimes depending on the application, you loose so much carb signal that you can never properly jet the Engine, no matter how many times you change jets it never runs right, I have seen guys go from a 145 all the way to a 185 on the main jet and never get the top end rich it was always on the lean side all because they remove the taper and intake tract length between the filter and the carb.

Kudos to you Randman you and GoOddy are all over this shit I will shut up now lol

Nukem? I think he has probably tried every combination of every part made for a 350

Rand wrote:
Just my 2 Bob's worth!
WOW! I'm impressed Mate!

Hey Baz, I still like the "two boobs worth" expression better!

Yeah Hoser, I believe it is Nukem who has the K&N filter system wrapped in additional filer material. I though about using this system to make it easier to make carb adjustments because trying to put the boot back on the bottom of the stock filter box is a pain in the ass! I just don't want to loose the air box because of the pressure wave it controls. That and I'm too cheap to pay 100+ bucks for an air box eliminating tube.

Rand

haha,I was wondering if it was just me,yes putting that boot on is a major pain

Yeah SO do I!

So Randy,are ya sayin'" A Boob in the hand is worth 2 in the Bush?"

get a long screwdriver, and boot goes in easy with filter out of the way.....

Randy, who the hell is Randy? Oh yeah, that's my daughter's name (Randi)! Please, either Rand or Randall or "a" hole, dumb ass, or anything other than Randy! LOL!

How about a boob in each hand over the top of a bush!


Anyway back to the subject,
Even with a long screwdriver and the filter out, it's still a pain in the ass! I even put just a little bit of soap in the boot to help it slide on easier..............and it's still a pain in the ass! You got to get at just the right angle to see the damn screw!

Rand, Randall, Randman, "a'Hole or dumbass!

I totally agree, I did a upgrade to 1 of my 350's it was cheap,easy, and a great upgrade for air induction.I would get rid of the K&N upgrade and use the stok air box with 2 pre filters.Here's a link to the set-up I did, still works to this day and the pre-filters keep all dirt and grime away from the main filter, it looks brand new after a full day of riding in dusty condition.Link here:


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