Will be bringing this buggy home from the farm this week to begin my next revival...

Plans:
0: 100% complete tear-down
1. Engine:
> If stock:
- Top end job & optimization: 80mm piston kit, bore/hone, piston drill, bridge relief, light port
- Water-cooled head conversion
- YFZ450 radiator kit
- Mercedes water pump
- Rebuild fuel pump
- Rebuild / clean carb
- Crank case vent mod
> Otherwise:
...Rotax 400cc or bigger, liquid cooled.
9. Engine internals as required per my Engine CSI
10. Pre-filter intake
11. Gearbox internals as required by gearbox CSI (new needle bearings and gasket at minimum)
12. New rear carrier bearings
13. Grease zerks on carriers
14. New battery
15. Starter / solenoid rebuild/replace
16. Frame strip & repaint Grey / Blue / Black theme
17. Front suspension powder coat
18. Rear suspension powder coat
19. Plates / guards powder coat
20. Repaint all other parts
21. New tires all around
22. Trail Tech Vapor
23. EGT
24. Voltage gage
25. Gage Pod
26. Powder coat wheels or get some shiners
27. Comet 94c clutch (or sled clutch)
28. Replace / repair parts as-needed or as-missing
29. May put the Suzuki LTR front a-arms on this one -- not sure. Will mock up on the extra frame first. We shall see...
30. I'm sure I'm missing something! =)

Basically everything I did with buggy #1, plus some more aesthetics with a complete tear-down.

Rebuild Budget: $1,200

That's all!

This one will be a "keeper" along with buggy #1.

I would suggest using a banshee radiator, or one similar with top/bottom tanks. The yfz450 has side tanks. With a side tank radiator, you have to run an electric water pump, the water will not boil feed. Thus, if your pump ever fails (which I have seen them fail many times), you do not have the option of bypassing the pump and giong to boil feed as a "desert fix."

Yep, I appreciate the power of the siphon effect. But these Bosch and Mercedes water pumps are bulletproof. And I like gadgets. :)

Wow, those 'shee radiators are CHEAP! Like 1/3 the cost of the YFZ450 setup and plentiful. I think I'm going to go with the 'shee radiator, honestly. The direction the hose bars are pointed seems simpler, too. Not to mention, the simple side tab mounts with rubber inserts. The mounting apparatus will be a lot easier. I've got a fan and overflow bottle at home already and will pick-up another Mercedes or Bosch pump.

I was messing around with Buggy #1 last night, and I'd like to incorporate a front-spare-tire carrier on the back downtubes on buggy #2. Looks like a desert truggy.

And the more I think about it, the more I want to start with the spare bare frame I have and tear-down the actual buggy and then transfer parts as I rebuild / revive them. Buggy #2's frame has a tree scar on the right-hand cross bar, I hate the hexagonal tubing tree bars, and I can start with a clean canvas.

Aaaaand the more I think about it, the more I want to do the a-arm conversion. The LT250R arms are stout and very similar in dimensions to the FL400R arms. Not too wide, either. I've got some 17" Arvon-Meritor gas shocks that should work perfect.

Then...this will be a little different than the ordinary restoration -- more like a next-level desert buggy that's still a great trail-rig.


On a different note...put in my 3-weeks notice here at Owens-Illinois (glass bottles) so I can get out of boring corporate purchasing and back into R&D Engineering at FRAM-Autolite-Prestone aka: Rank Group Ltd. (I was there 12 years prior). Exciting week! Looking forward to having access to their lab, machine & metal shop, and hydraulic vehicle lifts again, too. Oh...and plenty of free filters, spark plugs, and chemicals!

I ended up grabbing a banshee radiator off of ebay for $10 shipped haha. cant beat that. shipping alone would have been half that if not more. if you want pictures of how i mounted mine i can always dig them up for you.

There's a feeBay seller that's about 40-min from me who has like 20 different Banshee radiators on there.

Picking up my #4 frame and the front suspension tonight. But I have some work to do on my Zilla, so don't expect any major updates. Just logistics.

Homeward bound...

Good write up so far. My favorite threads are rebuilds and conversions. I love the idea of a the spare tire mount.. Something to consider is a quick release set up. just thinking of how hard it could be to work back there with a spare mounted back there.

Keep it up D$.

Glad to hear you are going with a banshee radiator. I actually did have a mercedes pump go out on me. Gears locked up. Then I actually had one crack a case and leak all over the place.

Nice! I work in the World HQ in Perrysburg, OH and very familiar with the Streator plant! Small world. I did global pricing analytics on capital equipment, batch materials, and services (aka: I'm a numbers monkey); worked with some furnace refractory purchasing (MgO, IFB); and strangely enough managed the spend for the O-I aircraft hangar at the local airport (G450 and Cessna Sovereign).

But all the purchasing BS bored me, since I'm an engineer by degree and 13 yrs prior experience in design and R&D. I'm also a Pro/E cad guy.

What did you do for O-I Streator, or maybe I should ask...which supplier company do/did you work for?

FRAM...basically doing R&D in any of the filter types air, oil, fuel in aftermarket and with OE customers. The company also owns UCI - Champ Labs, so I'll be working on their stuff, too. Yes, FRAM and Champ are the same company as of last summer. And, ironically, the new FRAM Core filters (WalMart) are made at the Champ plant in Illinois. We're hoping to crush Purolator once and for all. =)

Back to the project...
Looking forward to getting buggy#2 frame in the shop to start cleaning it up tonight. I've got pretty much a spare 'everything' for it in the shop for it, too -- rear suspension, Engine, gearbox, fuel tank, brackets, air box, steering, fenders, electrical, etc. Just need to find two things: one axle and need to find or bend up a rear brake line (the long one). And then as I'm assembling stuff, it will get blasted, painted, greased, rebuilt, etc. Much easier to rebuild something that's already apart! And once I have anything new welded to the frame, it will get blasted and p-coated.

Also, while I was clearing buggy #3 & #4 off my trailer last night, I discovered one of the buggies has Works shocks on the front. Bonus! Those will get cleaned up and fitted onto buggy #1.

Got some tubing and flat stock ordered from the local Alro Steel shop for the spare tire holder and the front suspension undercarriage (for a-arm support). Can never buy "too little" from the mill, ha!

For comparison...
20' of 1-1/4" OD x .083" wall A513T-1 HREW tube = $31
20' of 1-1/2" OD x .083" wall A513T-1 HREW tube = $36
12' of 3/16" Thk x 3" W flat A36 HR = $41

Also bought a couple 2" OD x 12" L drops of A36 steel and 2011-T3 Alum. to have on hand for spacers, washers, etc, and 4' of 1-1/2" OD white Delrin to have on hand. The Delrin is for a-arm bushings.

Cha-ching!

The a-holes don't offer cutting at the local facility, so I have to bring my cordless DeWalt sawzall to cut the tubing down to four 10' sections to fit on my 12' trailer.

Did you price DOM vs. HREW? DOM may bend a little nicer compared to the welded.

Copied from a website......


DOM is actually not a type of tubing, but a process that is applied to tubing after it is initially constructed. It is Drawn Over a Mandrel...which "cold works" it, giving it more exact dimensions relative to the inside and outside diameters, a smoother finish, and better alignment of the crystal lattice structure. Although it is almost always referred to as a SEAMLESS tube, technically it is NOT seamless tubing, and it started life as some sort of EW (electric welded) tubing. During the manufacturing process, the weld line becomes nearly undetectable, thus it is referred to as SEAMLESS. It is considered a high strength, high quality tube, and is normally constructed from SAE 1020 or 1026 steel. DOM is commonly used in the manufacturing of race cars and motorcycle frames.


Just a thought.

Good thought, indeed. But there will be very little bending for what I want to do with this tubing, and they have it there in stock.

Another midwest member...from Iowa here.

Uh-oh...a guy called me about a '99 Arctic Cat ZR500 EFI electric start complete sled for $850 that runs perfect. Includes the entire sled from heated grips to track.

Hmmm....

Looks like these engines alone without any accessories are going for $600+ on feeBay. EFI is already dialed in. Gages, clutches,electronics, pipe, all there. 16.5" E2E Fox shocks. And 500cc isn't too huge. Could slut the rest of it out on feeBay quick and cheap and make some coin back, too.

Hmmmm...

DMoney,

I could be wrong but if I recall correct, those AC EFI units were only built for one year and fell out of favor because of reliability issues, the very next year they switched back to carb. If it's the model I'm thinking about it, parts for the EFI system are hard to come by due to it's short run. I'd check to make sure before jumping on, otherwise it sounds like a good deal.

Asaszn

SO I went and looked at it, and the sled is in amazing shape for $850. But holy jesus is it complicated (compared to the basic Oddy 350). If I buy it, it will be to re-sell -- not to chop apart for a buggy. =)

I picked up my steel last night, plus scored the other axle I needed for $71 on feeBay from a seller in PA -- that's the cheapest I've ever seen one sell for! Woot!

Seems like there is a seller or two in PA and one in NC whoring out Oddy's like it's their full-time job. Glad I picked up the 3 just this side of the Ohio river before they got to 'em with their genecide!! lol

Edit: *deleted* the crap about a tube bender

Not sure I'm going to use the Suzuki LT a-arms anymore after doing a bit of mock up. I think I'll be better off making a set of tube a-arms using 3/4 heims and mis-alignment spacers and making spindles. But I need to take some frame measurements and transfer the layout to Pro/E to play with the Ackerman, KPI, scrub, camber, caster, etc. and get it right in the virtual world. Then I will have a suspension that fits the buggy, not a force-fed setup based on assumptions, luck, and karma. Hoping I can use some existing spindles, or else modify something existing to work to simplify things.

Also been looking at the rear trailing arms and how they could be built to accomodate the stock axles and carriers, but allow for a fatter spring or longer shock. Then the shock options are endless.

So I will be in the virtual world for a week or so...as well as reading, reading, reading...

I'm dead-set on using the FL350r powerplant now. I have 5 engines in my shop, and the power impresses me.


More front a-arm stuff, basically thinking outloud here...

> It'll cost me $17 per mount for 3/4 heims, misalignment spacers, and 5/8" nuts/bolts. So figure (8) total mounts = $136. And will use the LT upper/lower ball joints that are on my arms, since they're good & big enough. If I step down to 5/8 heims, it's $115 of parts.

> I will make the threaded bungs myself on the lathe.

> I'll use the bottom tube frame for the lower mounts, and then will use some 3/16" steel plate to create a location for the upper mounts mid-frame, as well for the arm mounts, shock towers, and some frame gussets. If I need to go below the bottom frame rail, I've got the tubing to do so. Depends on steering solutions.

> Will have a cross bar on the front cage above my shins to brace the shock towers.

> I really wish I would've got 1-1/4 x .095 wall tubing now instead of 14-ga. A 20' stick of ERW .095 is only another $50. Wondering if the 14-ga will cut it (???).

> Will try to use the LT spindles I have, but due to the steering problem solving & getting the right overall geometry, I'll likely make a custom set and pray they will be small enough for the wheels.

> Not sure what I'll do for front fenders. Which is okay, since I only have 2.5 sets for my 4 buggies anyways.

> Planning to use 22x7-10 or 23x7-10 tires/wheels, LT250 hubs/discs/calipers, and still try to use the stock Oddy brake lever & splitter. If real estate is an issue inside the wheel ID, I may opt for the +1 rim diameter.

The total cost for this front fixed (non bolt-on) setup so far is pretty minimal since I've had the LT250 parts, have shocks, and tubing is cheap. So only real expenses are for hardware. Should be under $250, no prob. Even so, the LT250R brakes, hubs, rotors, and ball joints could be purchased for less than $150 on feeBay.

Or, I just mount the LT250R setup and it works! ha We'll see...


On the rear...

> I would like to modify the lower shock mount or the trailing arm to accept a fatter shock by carving out a section of the trail arm and then brace with steel. And may relocate the upper mount above the tube to accept a slightly longer shock. This is simply for a non-Works rear shock option at stock travel with stock axles.

3/4" seems kinda big to me,1/2" with 3/8" bolts plenty.

.083 is fine.

Thanks, and agreed. Was searching around a couple other sites and seems most of the buggies are using 1/2 or 5/8 heims.

Well, I got some parts hoarded for the next build, and I got my Zilla tuned and out of the way. My stinkin' lathe is down due to a bearing that's dying in the drive m0t0r and about to totally fail. So my turning fab stuff is on hold. I'd like to pick-up a tubing bender, too, soon.


Basically, I want this buggy to be a little more extreme & custom than the last ressurection (which was stock with all the reliability mods). Like a mini-baja racer that's good for the trails, sand, or snow and can handle some air. This build will be slow, since I want to do it right. This one is a keeper!

Front suspension: I need to get to mocking up the front suspension to see if the LT250R stuff will work out. Otherwise I'm building the custom front wishbone setup with either existing spindles, or custom ones, and either the LT250R brakes/hubs or I have an FL350 set of brakes/hubs. Nothing super wide, just better than stock.

Rear suspension: staying stock, for now with some rebuildable 15" Fox rezzy shocks I found online for ~$100. But I do have some good ideas for LT. I found some other $cheap$ 25-spline parts that I can use to make cups to fit on the gearbox for CV axles. Hmmm...

Engine: stock with the essential mods (same mods as my #1 build). Got a 94c and 102c clutch to choose from. May opt for better reeds, a bigger carb, and some light trail porting. I have a water-cooled head, YFZ350 radiator set, and Mercedes water pump ready as well.

Frame: It's nice having a stripped-naked frame to start with. Thinking of stretching the front about 6" to make foot room and to better mount the suspension. I do not have a foot tub for this buggy, so the sky is the limit. Will have a spare tire carrier on the back. And will do some gussetting. Tree bars, too. Chassis is the first priority since I need all the mounts, tabs, etc, to get it out for sand-blasting and p-coating.

Electrical: Same setup as my #1 buggy (EGT, TT Vapor, voltage gage, water pump, fan, new battery, starter rebuild, new solenoid), but I want some bigger round buggy lights or even an LED bar. I've got a turn signal set from a GSXR, so I may even trick this one out with blinkers, horn, etc.

[b]Wheels / Tires / Rear Brakes: I've got a couple good sets of rear wheels, and hoping to use the 10" front wheels and 23x7r10's on the LT250R setup. I have one good set of 24x11r10 Spider Trak rears, but may opt for something else. Staying stock with the rear brakes, but I do have a double-piston GSXR caliper I may try to use (better braking and cheaper parts supply).


Anywho...I'll be tinkering with some more design ideas over the next couple weeks.

I am very very interested in this. Lots of pictures ;) document this progress well if you do it :)

Don't hold your breath, though. Main priority is to get buggy #2 rolling.

Got the trailing arms and uppers bead blasted today, and got the new bearings & seals on the carriers. Hoping to get the rear suspension parts p-coated tonight. Then I can get the gearbox on and the rear sitting up on its own so I can get to the front suspension geometry.

Bare parts....