murph4478 wrote:
For now, the exhaust is a solid mount. I do have the "cups" to spring mount it as soon as I figure out which exhaust I'm using, I have a few to try. Right now, this thing is obnoxiously loud!!!
As for rubber mounts go, find a really big ACE hardware and go to the Hillman isle (nut & bolts ect..). They make rubber mounts that are almost exact replacements for the 250 exhaust mounts. You can also go to Hillman on the internet. They also stock the hiem (?spelling) joints for steering in metric tie rods! I already have mine, just awaiting my disassembly, paint and final assembly. My Wife is a manager so I get a killer discount, sometimes up to 80% off!!!, NICE, especially now that our ACE handles Craftsman tools!!!
I have my comet 102C apart now to put a shim in for belt spacing. I will try to blow the next trans tomorrow. One down and two to go.
Anyone know if 100.00 is a good price for a NEW 250 chain?
Thanks for the input guys!!!
Search around this site. I see a thread on good replacement chains. No master links type though. I wil see if I can dig it up. I think it may be in Bills Tips.
Bills Tips.
Transmission & Axle Tips:
If you remove axle for any reason, you will have noticed that you have to remove the right side bearing carrier and
parking brake to get the axle out. This is because the lip that butts against the transmission is to large to fit through
the bearing on the bearing carrier. If you grind the lip down a little or get it turned down slightly it will slide right
through the bearing. From then on you can remove the axle without having to remove the bearing carrier.
If you remove the parking brake drum and grind away all the drum so it is just a spacer, this will reduce the weight
of the axle assembly and the car will accelerate quicker. You can remove all parts of the parking brake to eliminate
unnecessary weight on the odyssey.
If you race dirt oval track you can get the center section of the axle turned down to about 1" in diameter. Do this
while having the turned section tapered back out to the original diameter near the edges where it passes through
the tranny & bearing carrier. This will allow the axle to flex a little and the car will not bounce as bad when you
hit bumps on the track. Also the axle is less likely to bend because it will flex instead of bending. It will also
driven weight so the car will accelerate quicker. This tip was contributed by Frank Callas.
The 77-81 FL250 transmission has a weaker chain than the 82-84 FL250. The two chains are interchangeable. If
you have your transmission open for any sort of maintenance you can replace the weaker chain with the 82-84
heavy duty chain. Part # for the heavy duty chain is: No. RK 50KB-42 LE (Takasago). If you break a chain under
full throttle it will usually do some serious damage to the gear case. If you have the gearbox open & the chain is
loose, my advice is to change it.
The manual says to use 10W30 or 10W40
motor ((
Internal Combustion Engine ? )) oil in the gearbox. I use 90 weight gear oil with climbing lube
additive or some STP mixed in to help thicken the mixture and allow the oil to climb the gears. I have had far
fewer gearbox failures since I went to the thicker oil mixture.
Still need to find the chain info. Still looking.