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PostPosted: Wed Aug 22, 2012 8:19 pm 
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Joined: Fri Aug 10, 2012 3:45 pm
Posts: 16
Can't get my rear brakes to get pumped up good. I have what I believe all of the air out. The caliper will move some as you press/release the brake lever. It will also squirt out when you build up pressure and release it from the air screw. My pads have about 1/4 of them left. I'm out of ideals? Anybody? Thanks


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 22, 2012 8:44 pm 
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Joined: Sat Mar 03, 2012 11:45 pm
Posts: 3610
Location: CHICO,CA
Iceman wrote:
Can't get my rear brakes to get pumped up good. I have what I believe all of the air out. The caliper will move some as you press/release the brake lever. It will also squirt out when you build up pressure and release it from the air screw. My pads have about 1/4 of them left. I'm out of ideals? Anybody? Thanks

with my experance with brakes

i would get a new set of pads

i was having the same problem then i got new pads and they worked


its best to start with a fresh set of pads expectually with brakes that havent been used in a long time


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 05, 2012 1:28 am 
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Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2009 2:10 am
Posts: 4678
Location: Carson City NV
Iceman wrote:
Can't get my rear brakes to get pumped up good. I have what I believe all of the air out. The caliper will move some as you press/release the brake lever. It will also squirt out when you build up pressure and release it from the air screw. My pads have about 1/4 of them left. I'm out of ideals? Anybody? Thanks


First, Ody brakes do not have a real firm feel like that of a proper operating brake system on a motorcycle or quad. They are always slightly mushy.

If they are not working properly..........

1.) Remove the piston from the caliper and look to see what the condition of the piston is. It should be clean and free of any debris. The finish of the outside of the piston should be a mirror like finish. If it is covered in crap it isn't going to move in and out without binding. I polish my caliper pistons so I can see my ugly mug in them!

2.) Clean the inside surfaces of the caliper bore itself. It should be completely clean and free of debris.

3.) When you are bleeding the brakes on the rear, tighten down the parking brake adjustment screw so that it locks down the caliper piston against brake shoes. This will lock the piston in place and allow you to bleed all of the air out of the system.

4.) Bleed the brakes by using the pump and hold method. You should be able to get a firm handle with the brake screw locked down.

5.) After you get all of the air out, loosen the parking brake adjustment screw until the Ody will roll without the brake binding.

Rand


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2012 12:50 pm 
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Joined: Thu Sep 20, 2012 12:58 am
Posts: 11
Location: Warshington
^Do you know of any master upgrades to get a less mushy feeling?


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2012 3:03 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7698
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
I used to have a formula racecar. Brakes were a big issue. I could boil the brake fluid at will and nothing is more unnerving than running up to a corner at 160mph knowing the brakes are SOFT. One thing we found was that if any of your rubber brake lines are old they will swell when under pressure. This will make brakes feel soft. Check yours, are they in good condition?


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 1:46 am 
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Joined: Thu Sep 20, 2012 12:58 am
Posts: 11
Location: Warshington
Already pulled em off, as well as the cables, and the parking cable, and throttle cable. Brake fluid was very dirty, rear caliper is toast. All lines and cables are on order, i'm still looking for a rear caliper though. My master may be good, it may be bad, not sure but if there was an upgrade, best to do it now. I'm not a big fan of spongy brakes.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 2:23 am 
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Joined: Fri Feb 29, 2008 1:51 am
Posts: 2703
Location: Upland, Ca
also make sure when you adjust the front pads there is a slight drag on them. also asjust the rear pads with a slight drag as well.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 3:07 am 
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Joined: Tue Aug 03, 2010 12:02 am
Posts: 2147
Location: St. John, Washington
gongeuzler wrote:
Already pulled em off, as well as the cables, and the parking cable, and throttle cable. Brake fluid was very dirty, rear caliper is toast. All lines and cables are on order, i'm still looking for a rear caliper though. My master may be good, it may be bad, not sure but if there was an upgrade, best to do it now. I'm not a big fan of spongy brakes.


what is wrong with your caliper? I cant imagine it is completely toast. don't throw it out, they are hard to come by. you can rebuild them fairly easily. post pictures of what is wrong and we can help you.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 8:05 am 
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Joined: Thu Aug 18, 2005 10:13 am
Posts: 3760
Location: PERTH WESTERN AUSTRALIA
You ALSO need to have the hand/E brake adjusted properly,so as to NOT waste any of the brake pulse caliper piston travel.
Adjust the rear coarse threaded bolt in towards the caliper piston,then back off so as not to bind,then tighten the lock nut.
Now the piston is at it's LEAST amount of starting travel.
This will help immensely in gettin' back the ? feel.

Also check your rubber brake lines,if they are soft and wasted(like me :-) ) replace them.
What they do-when soft- is use up the brake pressure in pulsing out the rubber lines,and therefore not providing enough pressure to push the piston.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 12:55 pm 
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Joined: Thu Sep 20, 2012 12:58 am
Posts: 11
Location: Warshington
nitrosport_5 wrote:
gongeuzler wrote:
Already pulled em off, as well as the cables, and the parking cable, and throttle cable. Brake fluid was very dirty, rear caliper is toast. All lines and cables are on order, i'm still looking for a rear caliper though. My master may be good, it may be bad, not sure but if there was an upgrade, best to do it now. I'm not a big fan of spongy brakes.


what is wrong with your caliper? I cant imagine it is completely toast. don't throw it out, they are hard to come by. you can rebuild them fairly easily. post pictures of what is wrong and we can help you.


It's seized and beat up. Is a rebuild my only option?


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 1:24 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 03, 2010 12:02 am
Posts: 2147
Location: St. John, Washington
gongeuzler wrote:
nitrosport_5 wrote:
gongeuzler wrote:
Already pulled em off, as well as the cables, and the parking cable, and throttle cable. Brake fluid was very dirty, rear caliper is toast. All lines and cables are on order, i'm still looking for a rear caliper though. My master may be good, it may be bad, not sure but if there was an upgrade, best to do it now. I'm not a big fan of spongy brakes.


what is wrong with your caliper? I cant imagine it is completely toast. don't throw it out, they are hard to come by. you can rebuild them fairly easily. post pictures of what is wrong and we can help you.


It's seized and beat up. Is a rebuild my only option?


unless you can get someone to part with one, but then you still are left with a used caliper. pull it apart and rebuild. they are fairly simple to fix


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 2:33 pm 
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Joined: Thu Sep 20, 2012 12:58 am
Posts: 11
Location: Warshington
nitrosport_5 wrote:
gongeuzler wrote:
nitrosport_5 wrote:
gongeuzler wrote:
Already pulled em off, as well as the cables, and the parking cable, and throttle cable. Brake fluid was very dirty, rear caliper is toast. All lines and cables are on order, i'm still looking for a rear caliper though. My master may be good, it may be bad, not sure but if there was an upgrade, best to do it now. I'm not a big fan of spongy brakes.


what is wrong with your caliper? I cant imagine it is completely toast. don't throw it out, they are hard to come by. you can rebuild them fairly easily. post pictures of what is wrong and we can help you.


It's seized and beat up. Is a rebuild my only option?


unless you can get someone to part with one, but then you still are left with a used caliper. pull it apart and rebuild. they are fairly simple to fix


No remanufactured, or upgrades out there? I did some searching and found people talking about them, but that was a few years back, havn't discovered any yet. It looks as thought someone made an attempt to get this off with a sledge at one point, its pretty beat.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 3:58 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 03, 2010 12:02 am
Posts: 2147
Location: St. John, Washington
gongeuzler wrote:
nitrosport_5 wrote:
gongeuzler wrote:
nitrosport_5 wrote:
gongeuzler wrote:
Already pulled em off, as well as the cables, and the parking cable, and throttle cable. Brake fluid was very dirty, rear caliper is toast. All lines and cables are on order, i'm still looking for a rear caliper though. My master may be good, it may be bad, not sure but if there was an upgrade, best to do it now. I'm not a big fan of spongy brakes.


what is wrong with your caliper? I cant imagine it is completely toast. don't throw it out, they are hard to come by. you can rebuild them fairly easily. post pictures of what is wrong and we can help you.


It's seized and beat up. Is a rebuild my only option?


unless you can get someone to part with one, but then you still are left with a used caliper. pull it apart and rebuild. they are fairly simple to fix


No remanufactured, or upgrades out there? I did some searching and found people talking about them, but that was a few years back, havn't discovered any yet. It looks as thought someone made an attempt to get this off with a sledge at one point, its pretty beat.


speedchaser made the caliper brackets but they used the stock caliper. take it off and see if the critical pieces are damaged. where in washington are you? id be happy to help if you are near me.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 5:20 pm 
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Joined: Thu Sep 20, 2012 12:58 am
Posts: 11
Location: Warshington
Appreciate the offer, but i'm about 5 hours west of St John. I'll take it off and soak it in some kroil overnight and see what I can get out of it. I need to replace an axle and get the electric start working too, all my cables and lines should be here next week. Everything else was in pretty good condition. Steering might need some work. I just bought it last weekend, my main goal is to get it in top notch shape before KOH in February.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 16, 2013 5:51 pm 
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Joined: Thu Sep 20, 2012 12:58 am
Posts: 11
Location: Warshington
Bumping this thread again. Found a replacement rear caliper. Been vacuum bleeding for 3 hours today, air bubbles, lots, and it isn't getting any better. Tried lifting it up with a hoist, no luck there. I'm thinking my master is bad as well.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 16, 2013 7:43 pm 
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Joined: Fri Feb 15, 2013 4:44 pm
Posts: 51
gongeuzler wrote:
Bumping this thread again. Found a replacement rear caliper. Been vacuum bleeding for 3 hours today, air bubbles, lots, and it isn't getting any better. Tried lifting it up with a hoist, no luck there. I'm thinking my master is bad as well.


I did the rear first. I couldn't get anything out of mine so I decided to bleed at the master first and when I got fluid coming out at that point I tightend the line back on and went to other end of the line and blead it from there. I did that all the way through the break line system and finally got the breaks working.
Mind you the brakes feel like only 20 percent working though. Took around an hour and a half.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 16, 2013 8:31 pm 
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Joined: Thu Sep 20, 2012 12:58 am
Posts: 11
Location: Warshington
Same, about 20% pressure. They flick right back into place though. New springs, cables, ss lines. Frustrating. Not sure if its worth it to find a master, or fab up two separate masters from something more modern. Tried searching around to see if anyone had done it, but have come across anything yet.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 16, 2013 8:45 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 21, 2012 12:58 pm
Posts: 363
Location: Anniston, Al
I went through about the same problem, what I found out on here was "on the odyssey they are hard to bleed unless you Half pump the brakes when bleeding". I don't know why but it works when nothing else will. I vac. bleed mine, I bleed at every point in the line set that would bleed. I then pressure bleed them with a power bleeder, didn't work either. But try the half pump method and see if it will work? Good Luck Thanks Billy


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