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 Post subject: 350 Starter Rebuild
PostPosted: Thu Jun 29, 2006 4:09 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 22, 2003 2:39 pm
Posts: 97
So I started taking apart the starter. I cleaned the whole Engine about a week ago so the outside looks pretty good. This was purchased as a parts machine and has been sitting for a year or so. I was told they had it running last fall for an hour. I assumed that there wouldn't be much oil. Wrong. One question I had was the condition of the copper pieces that the brushes touch. Don't know the correct term. There appears to be a small piece missing from one of the squares. Don't know if it matters or not. Sorry about the close ups but I was trying to hold the camera with a rag since I was covered in oil. What's the best way to clean the parts?? I'm hoping to get the rebuild kit today or tomorrow.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 29, 2006 5:08 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22133
Location: Chicago
What a mess that oil makes, I will let MassOdy do the talking here he is our electrical expert I can tell you start cleaning off the parts using a rag don't use any solvents until you get premission from MassOdy use the wrong stuff and you will remove the insulation from the windings :shock: not a good thing, take it out in the sun and look at all the windings anything copper look close you want to look to see if the copper is all the same color discolored windings or wire, connectors is usually where a problem is..

Be careful with the parts so you don't nick the insulation by banging parts together.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 29, 2006 8:08 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 22, 2003 2:39 pm
Posts: 97
Got my rebuild kit today. Tonight is card night so maybe tomorrow night I'll continue.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 29, 2006 11:36 pm 
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Joined: Sun Dec 21, 2003 11:24 am
Posts: 796
Location: Bolton Ma
cool deal.

For the bulk of the cleaning I use "blue shop towels in a box"
and wipe away the oil and dirt.

I usually use two solvents.

Electronic cleaner is like TV tuner cleaner.
It works for a flushing near the windings.

CAUTION: I'm not sure if Carb Cleaner is cool. But its been working as a substitute to expensive(r) electronics cleaner.

And Carb Cleaner I put in a small cup and use a used soft tooth brush.
Dab the brush in the fluid to pick up some cleaner and brush down the contacts. And other problem areas.

For the grit on the contacts I use a VERY VERY fine wet-sand sand paper.
And / Or a pen-eraser eraser. HO train track eraser is the same thing.
Really a lathe is used and all. But, I don't have that.

All other parts I spray with carb cleaner and flush the dirt and oil into a basin pan. And wipe clean with a shop towel.

I learned from postings to use pop-sicle sticks for holding back the springs. or toothpicks.

I'm guilty of not replacing bushings. But always will replace that bearing.

I need a replacement starter housing where the permanent magnets are if anyone knows of one. Or really just the inside sleeve that holds the mags.

Bob


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jun 30, 2006 6:14 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 22, 2003 2:39 pm
Posts: 97
I found electrical cleaner, for motors etc, at Home Depot fo $7. Also picked up some more scott shop towels. I'll start tonight and have more questions & pics tomorrow.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jul 02, 2006 9:33 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 22, 2003 2:39 pm
Posts: 97
I finished the rebuild. It was pretty easy once I got the bearing off. I used a valve spring compressor to remove the bearings. The tool was a loner from AutoZone, for those of you that don't have shop tools like me. I used an 8mm 1/4" drive socket as a spacer to make it work like a gear puller. The small arms fit under the bearing, as shown in the picture. The best tip I have is take pictures and put the pieces in a baggie to keep them together. I did forget to put the spacer washer back when I put it back together, luckily I had the pics to show where they went. Thanks for all the help.

Tom


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