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PostPosted: Tue May 29, 2007 10:39 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 22, 2003 9:04 am
Posts: 465
Location: Springfield Ohio
I recived a request for information;

Quote:
Any suggestions where I should begin my search for shock seals, Stonemans rear Pilot shocks seals are starting to leak..




First a little engrish lesson. Shock = cushion. Don’t ask me why it dose but it dose (it’s not quite as good as blinker = winker). So if I slip in to Official Honda Engrish and call it a cushion you will know what is going on.

The more MX (the R’s) bikes/ATV’s have all sorts of shock parts available from Honda to facilitate rebuilding the units. The vehicles that have an R slapped on as a marketing gimmick do not have these parts available.

I took a look in the parts bin and found that the Pilot cushion rod is 12.5mm diameter. The bikes with cushion parts available usually had a clicker rod running threw them so the diameter was larger, 16 and 18mm depending on who made the cushion (we use 3 suppliers today, back in the day just 2). I did not do an extensive search from time immortal till today in the parts bin, I have limited break time and the hour I took was more than that limit. I do not believe that Honda will have a shock seal available in the parts bin but some one may come along and prove me wrong.

I recommend that you try one of the aftermarket places like Factory Connections. They specialize in MX re-valving but have parts available for many other rebuilds. As the ATV cushions are so similar to the bike stuff I would be surprised if they let such a large part of the market slip by. Some one needs to call them and see what they have to say (not it).

http://www.factoryconnection.com/oilSealOne.htm

The Showa 12.5mm seal will be the same for a Pilot 12.5mm rod, a scoter 12.5mm rod or an MX 12.5mm rod. The only thing that is different about the Pilot cushions is that they fit a Pilot. I realize that this dose not really answer the question you asked. Sorry it’s the best I can do.


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PostPosted: Tue May 29, 2007 11:19 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22133
Location: Chicago
Here is the assembly that is below the dust cap, you remove the dust cap then a snap ring.

First pic is the outer most seal I assume it cleans the shaft to protect the other seal?

Writing on the top outer seal is C 20


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PostPosted: Tue May 29, 2007 11:21 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
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Location: Chicago
Side view

Their is a Oring to seal the outside of the shaft seal holder thingie


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PostPosted: Tue May 29, 2007 11:21 pm 
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Location: Chicago
Bottom view, their is another seal inside.


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PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2007 2:25 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22133
Location: Chicago
Ok I design and fabricated a tool to remove the old seal without damaging it.

The numbers on the seals are next to the seals in the picture.

The dimensions are as follows

For seal D35 the hole or recess the seal presses into measures .945
the seal is about .200 thick, its soft rubber so 'about'
the ID I didnt measure we know what size shaft it fits over.


For seal C20 the part it presses on to is .985 the seal is about .200 thick.

The O ring groove in the body of the seal holder is .185 wide the bottom of the groove or the part the O ring goes around is 1.160 OD


Sick em Stoneman


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 27, 2007 6:50 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 16, 2003 2:45 pm
Posts: 877
Ok
It appears I have found a replacement for rear shock oil and dust seals.
http://www.racetech.com/shopping/shopdi ... wPage=dirt

Race Tech
SSOS 125S Shock Oil/Dust seal set 12.5mm
16.59

The o ring that goes around the seal head is a R-21(metric)


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2007 9:01 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22133
Location: Chicago
Ok Stoneman sent me the seal kits


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2007 9:02 pm 
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Location: Chicago
First thing you gotta do is bleed off the nitrogen, be careful its about 200 psi.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2007 9:02 pm 
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Location: Chicago
Their warning sticker lol


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2007 9:03 pm 
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Location: Chicago
Once the pressure is out put the can in a vice to support it then I take a deep socket and a small hammer to tap the bladder down to expose the snap ring that retains the bladder when under pressure .


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2007 9:04 pm 
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Location: Chicago
I use a pick to get the ring out.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2007 9:06 pm 
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Location: Chicago
Once the ring is out its time to remove the bladder I just screw the cap back on then gently grasp with a pliers and pull it out, you need to have control here squeeze too hard you damage the vale stem and turn the shock into junk, you can buy a valve stem installing tool for car tires to screw on and pull if your worried about damaging.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2007 9:06 pm 
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Here it is removed


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2007 9:07 pm 
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Oil inside this needs drained.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2007 9:08 pm 
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Next you remove the dust cap see the hole? I took a center punch and tap tap tap it out .


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2007 9:08 pm 
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This exposes the shaft seal


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2007 9:09 pm 
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Carefully take something soft and tap the seal down to expose the retainer ring.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2007 9:09 pm 
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Use the pick again to remove the ring.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2007 9:10 pm 
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You can then remove the guts of the shock, watch out for OIL


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2007 9:11 pm 
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Location: Chicago
Maybe you have already seen all this some where else?

Next we need to remove the valve stack so we can remove the old seals.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2007 9:12 pm 
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As you remove the nut you will notice at the factory they use what looks like lead to lock the nut onto the shaft, it will peel off as you remove the nut.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2007 9:16 pm 
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Location: Chicago
Before you remove the valve stack have wire ready so you can maintain the order of all the shims you have to reassemble the way it came apart if you want it to work.

IF you mess around and drop them or some how lose the order I already documented this long ago maybe you have seen it? Like alot of my info this is NOT in the service manual ! http://pilotodyssey.com/stockrear.htm


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2007 9:17 pm 
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Next slide the seal assembly off the end of the shock shaft.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 12, 2007 4:58 pm 
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Now you remove the old seals, remove the snap ring and metal washer


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 12, 2007 5:00 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
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Location: Chicago
Using a hoserized screwdriver I pried out the old seal


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