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PostPosted: Fri Feb 20, 2004 8:33 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 16, 2003 4:03 pm
Posts: 727
Offically last week I started the Drakart rehab, I'm going to make it better than it was before. Stronger, faster, quieter and less shakie! (didn't know how to word that last one!)

So far I have only dissmanteled and went to the drawing board. The things I need to do are:

1) Install new Corbeau suspension seat------For comfort and SAFETY!

2) Install new Team Tech harness------------For comfort and SAFETY!

3) Install used Ski-Doo motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) mount---------For Comfort and vibration issues!

4) Install and fab a mount for a tach---------For clutch tuning!

5) Add additional gussets to frame-----------For ridgidity and safety, mainly mine!

6) New rear links and hiems------------------The originals are worn out!

7)General maintinence------------------------I have another year of major riding to do!

Any of you professional Fabracators feel free to stop on by and help a POOA brother out, I specialize in free room and board, whilst (stoner!) your working! :-)


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 20, 2004 8:54 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22128
Location: Chicago
Looks good cant wait to see pictures as you progress, hope you have it all done by the first riding trip.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 26, 2004 12:28 am 
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Joined: Wed Dec 17, 2003 8:43 pm
Posts: 1368
Location: Colorado
If you're going to do all of that, you should do the one piece axles!


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 26, 2004 6:06 pm 
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Posts: 727
What are you talking about? One piece axles? Like the ones on the two seaters?


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 27, 2004 8:49 pm 
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Joined: Wed Dec 17, 2003 8:43 pm
Posts: 1368
Location: Colorado
This is the way Alain is now doing the single seaters.

The axle is larger diameter that the outer part of the old one and the whole thing looks really strong.


Attachments:
axlemod.jpg
axlemod.jpg [ 346.28 KiB | Viewed 4763 times ]
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 27, 2004 8:55 pm 
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Joined: Wed Dec 17, 2003 8:43 pm
Posts: 1368
Location: Colorado
Tom,

Two other things to think about while you're doing this. First, since the Engine will now be allowed to rock around due to the softer mounts, you will need to do a "brace" like device between the drive and driven clutches to avoid having them become mis-aligned at different speeds due to torque twist. Second, notice the boot "protectors" that Alain put on the blue frame Drak, we both need these.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 27, 2004 9:40 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 16, 2003 4:03 pm
Posts: 727
Where did you get these new pictures from? He E-mail it/them to you? Any more?

I'm not sure that I want to re-engineer the whole car, just parts of it!


I do see he added larger mounts to the rear lower links, I'd love to know all the new improvements/changes that have been made!


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 27, 2004 11:04 pm 
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Joined: Wed Dec 17, 2003 8:43 pm
Posts: 1368
Location: Colorado
I don't know about the rear mount size. Here is the batch of photos he sent me.


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 Post subject: The saga continues!
PostPosted: Tue Mar 02, 2004 11:40 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 16, 2003 4:03 pm
Posts: 727
Finally got the Drak taken completely apart.

Good news: None yet!

Bad news: 1) Another frame crack!
2) motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) mount is going to be tuff!
3) Can't get the clutch off! Over one hour of heat and impact wrench! CRAP!
4) Really dirty, she needs a good cleaning!

Pictures!


Attachments:
File comment: Found a non-insulated wire when trying to disconnect the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) wires, the one side was not connected! :-(
burntwire.jpg
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File comment: The top rear upper "A" arm mount is what you are looking at. I hate when this happens!
noweldingsonofabitch.jpg
noweldingsonofabitch.jpg [ 62.1 KiB | Viewed 4729 times ]
File comment: This is where I need to fab the original mount so I can mount this new one on top.
mountside1.jpg
mountside1.jpg [ 61.78 KiB | Viewed 4729 times ]
File comment: Another view.
mountside2.jpg
mountside2.jpg [ 62.95 KiB | Viewed 4729 times ]
File comment: Top view.
mounttop.jpg
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File comment: Don't you hate ending up with extra parts? "Now where did that go.......
extraparts.jpg
extraparts.jpg [ 59.83 KiB | Viewed 4729 times ]
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 03, 2004 8:33 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22128
Location: Chicago
Part of the problem is the drakart morons cant weld the pictures drakman provided are proof
enough, see the problem is any mutt that runs out and buys a mig welder thinks he can weld
when he cant here you see where some DUMBASS is stacking up a bunch of tack welds haha
why? because they cant weld probably burn through or gob it on when they hold the trigger
for more than 2 seconds at a time, what a shame you pay 20,000 for a car that was welded
together by what looks like something done by a highschool kid haha

I can teach my mom to weld like that in 20 minutes!

When you see something put together with tack welds turn and RUN the other direction haha


I would start your project with a pressure washer to clean things up I would also buy a bunch
of them pre made gussets from the chassis shop and weld in at every tube joint location...


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 05, 2004 2:14 am 
is that tig welded not mig welded


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 05, 2004 8:16 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22128
Location: Chicago
minibuggyhq wrote:
is that tig welded not mig welded


No its NOT tig welds trust me I have made thousands of, tig, mig, stick and torch welds over the
past 30 years, its a poor mig weld, Tig don't leave a little dimple or crater in the middle if each
tach weld like the mig tack welds do, but lets say they are Tig welds they still are incomplete
they are the perfect example of what NOT to do or how NOT to weld, this is a perfect example
of lack of fusion, incorrect profile, incomplete penetration a QC welding inspector would 'look'
that weld out from about 15 feet away haha


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 05, 2004 12:06 pm 
A welding inspector would fail the weld anyways. MIG welding is NOT structural welding, too much weld inclusion. There is only one form of structural MIG welding and generally we cannot afford that type of machine or have the power requirements. It is called metal arc spraying, the machine is a 480V mig welder, pushing huge diameter flux cored wire, at an extremely high amperage. All you hear is the hiss of electricity and a form of RAPE metal fusion.
But, yes that is a piss poor form of welding on a chassis tube. Tack welding is fine for light guage sheet metal, where you want to keep warpage to a minimum, but definitly not OK where you need 100% penetration of weld and substrate to make a strong joint.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 06, 2004 6:41 pm 
By any chance you get your clutch off? If so I need a picture of the stationary sheath and the way the starter ring gear mounts. Need to know if it is a dedicated sheath or if a non electric start clutch will work (like mine).


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Mar 06, 2004 9:38 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 16, 2003 4:03 pm
Posts: 727
No it is not off, ((Bad Word)) electric impact doesn't have the nuts to do it even with heat! :-(

All the clutches are the same, the ring gear just bolts up to the holes in the back!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Mar 06, 2004 10:34 pm 
mine is flat and not tapped, but there are holes that are about 3/16" deep. This is why I am wondering if there are different sheaths

Your impressive Litespeed you almost have inspired me to start building my car.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Mar 06, 2004 11:20 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 16, 2003 4:03 pm
Posts: 727
haha haha You said, "sheaths!" haha

Mine has about 8 to 10 (didn't count!) short bolts that hold the ring gear on. I'll take a side picture tomorrow if you want!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 07, 2004 10:18 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22128
Location: Chicago
dhjunkie wrote:
A welding inspector would fail the weld anyways. MIG welding is NOT structural welding, too much weld inclusion. There is only one form of structural MIG welding and generally we cannot afford that type of machine or have the power requirements. It is called metal arc spraying, the machine is a 480V mig welder, pushing huge diameter flux cored wire, at an extremely high amperage. All you hear is the hiss of electricity and a form of RAPE metal fusion.
But, yes that is a piss poor form of welding on a chassis tube. Tack welding is fine for light guage sheet metal, where you want to keep warpage to a minimum, but definitly not OK where you need 100% penetration of weld and substrate to make a strong joint.



Mig welding is strong enough if done correctly, COOR and SODA accepted mig welding on
the frames but they also did a visual inspection of the welds and if they didnt look right
you didnt pass inspection and didnt race, your right about it being a dirty weld but most
tig welding don't remove the mill scale (stuff that makes steel look gray or black) before
welding they just cut, notch, fit up and weld the joint (bike/car building TV shows omit
this too) I use mig but the weld affected area isis cleaned up with a sanding disc
before welding I also make complete welds by holding the trigger on for the complete
weld not turning it on and off or by depositing a series of tack welds ....

What I find strange is it is faster to make a full weld than to make a row of spot welds
then again you would have to know how to weld first haha

You can spray transfer using a mig if you turn up the heat or slow the wire down enough...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Mar 13, 2004 6:47 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 16, 2003 4:03 pm
Posts: 727
Where I am now.

I had a fab shop do the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) mount brackets since I have no real equiptment (bending, shearing and forming equiptment!) And I am in the process of adding support to thier work. Plus I am learning to weld with a Mig, I am/was certified stick but never did any mig. I piddled with the flux core and yesterday I got the shielding gas for the welder. What a difference in weld look and penatration


Attachments:
1.jpg
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2.jpg
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3.jpg
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4.jpg
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File comment: For ease, I raised the Engine 9/16" so I could use the mounting holes for alignment.
5.jpg
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File comment: motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) on it!
6.jpg
6.jpg [ 57.95 KiB | Viewed 4423 times ]
7.jpg
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File comment: My Mig welder! Needed in every Drakart owner's toolbox! LMAO
8.jpg
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File comment: Rearanged the garage, half for cars, half for toys!
10.jpg
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File comment: My first Mig welds! Aren't they cute!
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File comment: More.
12.jpg
12.jpg [ 61.51 KiB | Viewed 4423 times ]
File comment: Mobile garage office!
9.jpg
9.jpg [ 59.54 KiB | Viewed 4423 times ]
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Mar 13, 2004 6:49 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22128
Location: Chicago
You change polarity when switching from flux core to bottle murray?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Mar 13, 2004 7:02 pm 
Looking good. you prolly need to turn up the heat or slow the wire and application speed down a bit. But it should work a hell of a lot better than factory


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Mar 27, 2004 11:48 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 16, 2003 4:03 pm
Posts: 727
New pictures added in the Pilotodyssey.com pictures section.

http://www.pilotodyssey.com/cpg/thumbnails.php?album=17


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 28, 2004 12:03 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22128
Location: Chicago
Looking good all them gussets should help a bunch, I would add another diagonal tube
behind your head to make it a X, hope Engine mount takes care of some of the vibration
you ever get the strut that goes between the Engine and trans?


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