I think I see what you are saying... I will try this after I get my axle repaired... Tell the friends @ Honda I said thanks for making such a wonderful product 22 years ago!!! Hopefully they will forgive me for messing with the original design!!! Which really wasn't bad/ or broken... I childishly "wanted more"... thus my predicament!!!

I see how I will have to remove the shocks and get the wheel in 3 diferent positions to insure there is no more loco-locking... I will photo and document when I am rolling again!!!
Thank you!!!

Any updates, progress?

I left the ody in the shed at the house... I am working all this week, and probly next week too... Christmas and all... I ordered axle and works shocks are on the way... The front is going to have o wait till I get the rear end rebuilt... can't go no where to test it!!! LOL I am looking forward to another trip to the desert!!!

Whilst you have the down time you might consider installing some linear bearings in place of the hiem joints on your lawyer links since stupid has no idea what a linear bearing is?

Here are some that look like they can take the dirt?
http://www.igus.com/drylinr.asp?OVRAW=l ... 8243723022

Well it appears I am not the only one having problems with this kit!!!

See comments on this youtube video...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y6GMV8itfQ0

Thank you...

Some new pic's taken today as I was playing in AZ. I noticed something that wasn't matched up and am wondering if this is by design, or might be the cause of my problems???

Some more pic's from a different view...
I didn't have a good blade on my cutoff tool so I will have to attempt Lee's solution later this week...

Merry Christmas you lucky dog getting to ride TODAY!!!

Where exactly where you riding?

I have no idea what your trying to point out here...

the rest of the pic's

PIC"S 902 903 904 are the best now that I see them posted. These were taken while the Ody was on top of the trailer, so I simply went from one side to another to snap the pics...

You will need to draw some arrows I still have no idea what your talking about lol

Wasn't real exciting... I chose a place to shut down based on it's food and such... I stayed in Willcox, AZ. I wish I would have went to the next stop in Benson, AZ The spot was only a small dirt road, not terrain to challenge me and a Highway Patrol Station accidently got dusted as I went by them not knowing they were there!!! I was only going about 45 but the wind was blowing hard and my dust was flying...LMAO. I merely was wanting to test my fan on my brakes and it seemed to work well!!!

If you look at the 902 903 904 pic's you will see how the hiem the lawyer links pass thru are not evenly placed. the right side is mounted higher. I used a black ziptie to show this in first pics but the zip tie is hard to see...

So your talking about the patent pending linear hiem joint mounting points?

I put 2 green arrows in your picture for reference.

Hard telling why they are not the same, perhaps dipstick was trying to keep the same plane as where the lawyer links attach to the steering stem so they don't lock up the steering as much?

Boy that whole set up that whats his name is selling to us really freaks me out. The a arm moounts look ok but the hiem style bump steer I am not a fan of. I concidered making my steering with the hiem bump steer but I have seen if the inner tie rods get tweeked at all your pretty much screwed. So I built an idler arm set up on my buggy. It has been holding up pretty good for more than a year now and it takes all sorts of abuse. It will get alittle bent outta shape some time but it still functions right with out locking up. I'm just concerned abotu the safty of aftershocks products.

SAFETY has been my major concern ever since I laid my hands on these things http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9epoTz5pfm0

Kiowas life was put into danger when his nerf bar mount bent they snagged his throttle cable after he slightly grazed a tree with them, kiowas throttle went WOT (Wide Open Throttle) lucky he has quick reflexes he could have launched himself off the side of the mountain they were on.

Would you mind posting pictures of your setup???

I am refering to the difference in the gap between the sub-frame and this hiem contraption... I placed arrows in the spots I am refering to...

HERE ARE YOUR GREEN ARROWS UP CLOSE... iF YOU USE THE DOOR AS A REFERENCE POINT YOU CAN SQUARE UP THE SUBFRAME AND SEE THAT THE RITE (opps) side is higher than the left/drivers side???

I tried to post some ealier, but I could not get the to upload. They were less than one meg and still would not load. So I'll try this.
Aarm mounts
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj24 ... -06067.jpg
front view LT FL600
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj24 ... -06065.jpg
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj24 ... ans003.jpg
idler arm
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj24 ... -06064.jpg

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj24 ... -06063.jpg
my buggy
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj24 ... s001-1.jpg

600cc??? man what in the world do you use for wings??? I have seen some of your video's I was wondering about that puke green bumper......
600 cc's??? I don't think I will even unload my trailer queen 350 at Prairie City...LOL

Yea the green bumper I had to think about I had no time to paint for the first race this last season and some of the people in the stands were yelling "Go green bumper dude" . So I guess I'll keep it that way.

Nothing wrong with going green while burnig high octane mixed with syn oil. I say go green bumper dude as well.

Turbo I'm no expert. It does make me want to go UM. side load forces tends to come to mind. Is that what lee called a lawer link of was it refrence to who to call. I take it that's the bump steer problem solver. What if any controls the frictan expansion of the rod and joint. hot day heavy use maybe what lead to a steering lock. I would check rod for siezure marks if there pressent I would smooth up polish rod and clearenc the hole. It will cause a twitch feeling in the wheel but will help it from locking as well strenghting the rod. I would look for replacment joint that is coated to help with the friction form the to simaliar metals or run two stroke for lube on the front end. One chrome and and one plain steel will help or one polished and one platted. Put two pieces of gum and chew see if the stick together.

Think about it, remove the hiem joint (stupid is using it for a bushing) the lawyer link is going to try to move in all directions when you move the steering, its trying to fall down from gravity as Odyssey is just setting their still, add 50k miles bouncing on the back of a semi... rub a dub dub...

Its a stainless steel or chrome ball rubbing metal to metal with a stainless rod (lawyer link) .

The whole setup is just plain stupid where else in this mechanical world have you seen anything that would drag metal on metal by design? DEE DEE DEE

The current setup needs replaced with a belcrank setup, like hundreds of different model cars and trucks used for 100 years SAFELY

I have a feeling dumbass seen my pictures of the nylon bushings that were pressed into the tubing that was welded to the frame of Wheelmans Hi Performance ATV Pilot and figured that's all he needs haha. Those "hoops" as Wheelman called them were a knee jerk reaction to stop breaking the rack and pinion housing, with the Hi Performance ATV LT under certain circumstances HUGE side loads were put on the end of the rod in the rack and pinion, the nylon bushings were just a bump stop to stop the forces pushing the rod to the point of breaking the rack and pinion housing ....

99.999999% of the time the rod never contacted the self lubricating SOFT nylon bushings, going by memory the bushings I made had a inside diameter .200 larger than the shaft on the rack and pinion... This SAME THEORY is the same type setup you have seen on Engine and transmission mounts on cars they also have LIMIT STOPS that keep the Engine mounts from being taken past their design limits..

IMO the rack and pinion setup on the Hi Performance ATV LT kit is WAY more trouble than its worth IMO the "bump steer" belcrank setup is the way to go, the only downside I see to using one is the steering will feel lose and sloppy sooner because you add 4 more pivot points (hiem joints or ball joints) in a series with the tie rods, get .0005 wear X 8 points in the system and it feels sloppy...