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 Post subject: Pilot Rev Pipe Repair.
PostPosted: Thu Jul 26, 2007 11:56 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 02, 2007 3:00 pm
Posts: 176
Looking for where to get HI-REV Head pipe only for Pilot.

I was out in the dunes when my Engine suddenly got louder...And louder. So I stopped to discover that the head pipe had split. Trying to find the best place to get a replacement. I might try welding it but its aweful thin. Whats worst is why did it split? I was running a little hot but that should not have done this? Thanx Bill

nutz4sand@aol.com


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 26, 2007 12:21 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22128
Location: Chicago
NUTZ4SAND wrote:
I was out in the dunes when my Engine suddenly got louder...And louder. So I stopped to discover that the head pipe had split. Trying to find the best place to get a replacement. I might try welding it but its aweful thin. Whats worst is why did it split? I was running a little hot but that should not have done this? Thanx Bill

nutz4sand@aol.com


That is a fatigue failure you don't have the pipe mounted correctly, either the mounts are bound up not letting the vibration dissipate properly or you have it in a bind.

How are the Engine trans rubber mounts?

I could type the below all out and repost the pictures but that would defeat the purpose of building a data base on my web site all these years so excuse me if I just cut and paste and give you the links.

Tips on pipes can be found here viewtopic.php?f=109&t=13671 and here http://pilotodyssey.com/newpipe4.htm read them carefully their is alot of details their that are easily over looked, tips on sealing http://pilotodyssey.com/siliconesealer.htm

That pipe looks like a Power pro's http://www.thepowerpros.com pipe you might contact them and see if you can just buy a replacement head pipe.

If all else fails you can weld it up but you first need to remove 100% of the carbon inside the pipe if you don't the carbon will be pulled into the weld and weaken it you also would need to remove the layer of coating outside the pipe.

If I was making the repair I would weld it up and grind or sand the weld down then take a piece of steel about the same thickness of the pipe and weld a patch over the repaired area to add strength. Might not look pretty but you never see it once installed....


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jul 31, 2007 7:20 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22128
Location: Chicago
Any luck?


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 Post subject: Nope not yet
PostPosted: Tue Jul 31, 2007 5:19 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 02, 2007 3:00 pm
Posts: 176
Not yet. I have emailed them twice with no reply. I mgith try again here soon. Thanx Bill


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 Post subject: Re: Nope not yet
PostPosted: Tue Jul 31, 2007 5:42 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22128
Location: Chicago
NUTZ4SAND wrote:
Not yet. I have emailed them twice with no reply. I mgith try again here soon. Thanx Bill


I think your better off to call them I never had any luck getting them to answer email.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 16, 2007 6:22 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 02, 2007 3:00 pm
Posts: 176
I have talked to them via email three times and they are stuck on selling me the whole pipe as they do not wish to break up a set. I can respect not wanting to break up a set. But why can they not have the fabber make just a head pipe??? I even asked if they did not wish to help me by getting that would they put me through to there maker so I could have them make it direct. (Of course this would mean no profite for them but its not like I am not trying to get them to get me the part.) Anyone know the guy who actually makes these personally? Thanx Bill


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 16, 2007 6:41 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22128
Location: Chicago
NUTZ4SAND wrote:
I have talked to them via email three times and they are stuck on selling me the whole pipe as they do not wish to break up a set. I can respect not wanting to break up a set. But why can they not have the fabber make just a head pipe??? I even asked if they did not wish to help me by getting that would they put me through to there maker so I could have them make it direct. (Of course this would mean no profite for them but its not like I am not trying to get them to get me the part.) Anyone know the guy who actually makes these personally? Thanx Bill


Send me the old cracked head pipe let me take a 'crack' at it ..


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 Post subject: What and how
PostPosted: Mon Aug 20, 2007 9:40 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 02, 2007 3:00 pm
Posts: 176
I would be more than willing for you to try repairing it. Its not doing me any good like it is..... I guess I would need you to PM me your addy and what not. THe guy who sells them is like a broken record. They only sell the set. Heck I think its a puter bot answering me from there sometimes... : / This things got like three cracks. Ones huge the other two are trying to be. Thanx Bill


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 Post subject: Re: What and how
PostPosted: Tue Aug 21, 2007 1:48 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22128
Location: Chicago
NUTZ4SAND wrote:
I would be more than willing for you to try repairing it. Its not doing me any good like it is..... I guess I would need you to PM me your addy and what not. THe guy who sells them is like a broken record. They only sell the set. Heck I think its a puter bot answering me from there sometimes... : / This things got like three cracks. Ones huge the other two are trying to be. Thanx Bill


I sent you a email....


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Aug 25, 2007 5:39 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22128
Location: Chicago
I recieved your package today and started working on the head pipe.

See the crack on the weld ?

That weld is actually braze.

Looks like you sealed with silicone then turned over or started the Engine before the silicone had a chance to fully cure and it blew it out?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Aug 25, 2007 5:41 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22128
Location: Chicago
Hose clamp moved the metal back into place,


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Aug 25, 2007 5:43 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
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Location: Chicago
Once all the cracks were welded up I found a old head pipe that is slightly larger I will cut up to cover the outside to reinforce the metal.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Aug 25, 2007 5:45 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
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Location: Chicago
I had to slice it up into 2 pieces and then add 2 relief cuts to make it fit better.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Aug 25, 2007 5:52 pm 
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Location: Chicago
Moved this thread to Tech.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 27, 2007 8:24 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 02, 2007 3:00 pm
Posts: 176
Hello again. It looks good. I am hoping with fingers crossed. Yah I tried Silicone and it sat for over ten hours but that was not enough. I used to have some really kick ash Sealant tape called Chamber Seal. And I have found it again! (pic below) I am sure you have it or have seen it. It has always worked great for me. It can be used immediatley after you apply the putty/tape compound. I had ran out but I found a shop that carrys it again!

I guess I am glad I never drilled the hole for the EGT probe. Would it be something now (especially now that its been cracked and repaired) To consider a small reinforcement bung for an EGT probe hole? I can only imagine that it would have cracked sooner and maybe worse if I had followed the instructions and just popped one in it. All my exhaust mounts are the factory rubber isolated ones but I am going to have to reread the links you posted and rethink how I connect it up. I do not remember it binding badley installing it but the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) was shaking a lot till I sped the idle up a bit.

I will email you about other items with the machine ( ie, heads and jugs.) Thanx X10 Bill


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 27, 2007 8:28 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22128
Location: Chicago
NUTZ4SAND wrote:
Hello again. It looks good. I am hoping with fingers crossed. Yah I tried Silicone and it sat for over ten hours but that was not enough. I used to have some really kick ash Sealant tape called Chamber Seal. And I have found it again! (pic below) I am sure you have it or have seen it. It has always worked great for me. It can be used immediatley after you apply the putty/tape compound. I had ran out but I found a shop that carrys it again!

I guess I am glad I never drilled the hole for the EGT probe. Would it be something now (especially now that its been cracked and repaired) To consider a small reinforcement bung for an EGT probe hole? I can only imagine that it would have cracked sooner and maybe worse if I had followed the instructions and just popped one in it. All my exhaust mounts are the factory rubber isolated ones but I am going to have to reread the links you posted and rethink how I connect it up. I do not remember it binding badley installing it but the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) was shaking a lot till I sped the idle up a bit.

I will email you about other items with the machine ( ie, heads and jugs.) Thanx X10 Bill


Hi
I shipped your pipe today, I have more pics I took but the camera is in the shop I will post later, its not pretty but it should work, that coating is a bitch to weld around lol, next time I will sand blast it all off.


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 Post subject: And to top it off.....
PostPosted: Mon Aug 27, 2007 8:46 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 02, 2007 3:00 pm
Posts: 176
To make matters worse I just cracked the pipe on my Polaris. I thought it was stock but its a aftermarket and it cracked. I may try to weld it as I was going to ride it this weekend at Silver Lake in case I cannto take the pilot which is looking like it will maybe not be ready unless I get some fortune my way. If I torch this Polaris part a replacement is cheap and all over fleabay. How do you remove the most of the carbon out of the pipe before you try to weld it?

I have been trying to track down Pilot parts (heads) and was wondering about recutting the chambers on these. Even though nearly 3 mm has been sliced away. Whats your opinion on being able to try that AND still have enough meat to hold together under running pressure?

I DID find out that I had a main jet in the carb when I got the machine that was a 420. This carb comes out of ATV racing with a 490 in it usually. (I have gotten up to a 460 rejetting it. lil moree to go. But I also found out that the NEEDLE JET (Not to be cornfuzed with the Jet Needle in the slide) In my carb IS a 389/R-2 when it should be a
389/r-8. tHE DIFFERANCE IS A needle JET BORE FROM (R-8) 2.78892 What I need. To a 2.76772 (R-2) What I have in there. All the other parts are just as it should have come so the R-2 was leaning me out. Its SEEMS to me that its jsut a lot of little thing trying to get me. (Yah I am paranoid of this..) But as I uncover them and learn whats what and whats been done I will get it. I just hope its this time! Thanx Bill


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 27, 2007 9:06 pm 
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Joined: Thu Aug 18, 2005 10:13 am
Posts: 3421
Location: PERTH WESTERN AUSTRALIA
Bill, what is your Jet Needle? Should be 6FM46.I would also install a new Float needle n Seat Set.They are the metal point type needle and subject to leaks and or sticking...Baz


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 29, 2007 11:50 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22128
Location: Chicago
NUTZ4SAND wrote:
To make matters worse I just cracked the pipe on my Polaris. I thought it was stock but its a aftermarket and it cracked. I may try to weld it as I was going to ride it this weekend at Silver Lake in case I cannto take the pilot which is looking like it will maybe not be ready unless I get some fortune my way. If I torch this Polaris part a replacement is cheap and all over fleabay. How do you remove the most of the carbon out of the pipe before you try to weld it?

I have been trying to track down Pilot parts (heads) and was wondering about recutting the chambers on these. Even though nearly 3 mm has been sliced away. Whats your opinion on being able to try that AND still have enough meat to hold together under running pressure?

I DID find out that I had a main jet in the carb when I got the machine that was a 420. This carb comes out of ATV racing with a 490 in it usually. (I have gotten up to a 460 rejetting it. lil moree to go. But I also found out that the NEEDLE JET (Not to be cornfuzed with the Jet Needle in the slide) In my carb IS a 389/R-2 when it should be a
389/r-8. tHE DIFFERANCE IS A needle JET BORE FROM (R-8) 2.78892 What I need. To a 2.76772 (R-2) What I have in there. All the other parts are just as it should have come so the R-2 was leaning me out. Its SEEMS to me that its jsut a lot of little thing trying to get me. (Yah I am paranoid of this..) But as I uncover them and learn whats what and whats been done I will get it. I just hope its this time! Thanx Bill


Use what ever you can to get inside and remove the carbon, wire wheel on a drill or manual means with small wire brushes and or scrapers.

You need to evaluate your heads to see where the material needs to be removed, is the squish clearance sufficient but the compression is too high?

Usually all it is done to the stock head is material is removed from the gasket surface to tighten the squish then if the compression ratio is raised too high material is removed from the bowl area.

If your squish is right and compression is too high chances are material can be removed from the bowl to lower the compression, I would really need to see the heads to tell, they would need CC'd to see what the current cc's are... I found 47-49cc is great for pump gas long as the squish is right, never seen any deto at 47cc using ammoco 91 to 93 octane and my exhaust port height.


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 Post subject: Thank You
PostPosted: Thu Sep 06, 2007 12:39 am 
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Posts: 176
Just saying a public Thank You to Hoser for giving my headpipe a second chance at life. I am hoping it gets much much much use soon. Thanx Bill


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 Post subject: Re: Thank You
PostPosted: Thu Sep 06, 2007 6:37 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22128
Location: Chicago
NUTZ4SAND wrote:
Just saying a public Thank You to Hoser for giving my headpipe a second chance at life. I am hoping it gets much much much use soon. Thanx Bill


Not pretty, that coating if not 100% remove makes the weld fester up, you can wash most of it out with the weld puddle but the metal is so thin you don't have much wash time before its a hole :shock: Lucky for us its behind the seat hehe, give it a coat of high temp paint so it wont rust.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 30, 2007 4:45 pm 
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Location: Chicago
Pipe holding up?


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 Post subject: Still good so far!
PostPosted: Mon Oct 01, 2007 1:28 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 02, 2007 3:00 pm
Posts: 176
Yes so far it seesm to be doing well. I have missed a good weekweekend of riding as I lost the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) on my dune truck. I have one to swap into it but I need to find new wheels to drive before I do the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) swap from my van I am driving now. I found a truck near me that's Ok but not quite what I want. But assdie from that the pipes doing good to this point! Thanx again. Bill


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